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THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

PRESENTED  BY 

PROF.  CHARLES  A.  KOFOID  AND 
MRS.  PRUDENCE  W.  KOFOID 


NARRATIVE 

OF    THE 

LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  SUFFERINGS 

OF 

THOMAS   ¥.  SMITH: 

I 

COMPRISING 

AN  ACCOUNT  OF  HIS  EARLY  LIFE,  ADOPTION  BY  THE 
GIPSYSj    HIS  TRAVELS    DURING    EIGHTEEN.  VOY- 
AGES TO  VARIOUS  PARTS  OF  THE  WORLD,  DUR- 
ING WHICH   HE   WAS   FIVE    TIMES  SHIP- 
WRECKED; THRICE  ON  A  DESOLATE  ISL- 
AND NEAR  THE  SOUTH  POLE,  ONCE  ON 
THE  COAST  OF  ENGLAND,  AND  ONCE 
ON  THE  COAST  OF  AFRICA. 


HE  TOOK  PART  IN  SEVERAL  BATTLES  ON  THE  COAST  OF  SPAIN  AND  PERU 
AHD     WITNESSED     SEVERAL    OTHERS;     WAS    ONCE    TAKF>1     BY    PI- 
RATES, FROM    WHOM    HE    WAS    PROVIDENTIALLY      DELIVERED, 
PLACED  IN  A  SMALL  BOAT  AND   SET  ADRIFT  AT  A  GREAT 
DISTANCE  FROM  LAND,  WITHOUT  THE  MEANS  FOR  CON- 
DUCTINGS  HER   TO    THE    SHORE. — HE   AFT1RWARDS       , 
TOOK    PART    IN    FOUR    MINOR    ENGAGEMENTS 
WITH  SAVAGES  NEAR  NEW  GUINEA. 


WRITTEN  BY  HIMSELF. 

BOSTON  : 

PUBLISHED  BY 
WM.  C.  HILL,  24  CORNHILL ; 

NEW-BEDFORD,  THOMAS  W.  SMITH  ;  PORTSMOUTH, 
W.  B.  &  T.  Q.  LOWD  ;   EXETER,  A.  R.  BROWN, 


Entered  according  to  an  act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1844,  by 

THOMAS  W.  SMITH, 
In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  Massachusetts, 


PREFACE. 


THE  AUTHOR  has  presumed  to  present  the  public  his  Biography, 
which  contains  an  account  of  the  vanous  scenes,  through  which 
he  has  passed  during  thirty-five  years  of  his  life,  in  his  voyages 
and  travels  in  various  parts  of  the  world.  In  writing,  he  has  been 
under  the  necessity  of  trusting  wholly  to  memory,  not  having  kept 
a  Journal  of  his  Adventures  ;  as  the  idea  of  their  publication  had 
not  until  recently  occurred  to  him. 

As  a  writer,  he  claims  no  merit,  not  having  been  favored  with 
the  rudiments  of  a  common  English  education  ;  but  to  the  authen- 
ticity of  his  Narrative,  he  claims  as  a  Christian,  from  the  intelligent 
and  candid,  their  implicit  confidence.  He  therefore  presents  it  to 
the  community  as  a  series  of  incidents,  which  scarcely  has  its  par- 
allel. 

Unadorned  by  the  flowers  of  rhetoric,  he  leaves  it  to  the  reader, 
to  judge  of  its  merit  or  demerit.  T.  W.  S. 

NEW-BIDFORD,  SfifT.  1,  1841. 


M311G14 


THE 

LIFE,  TRAVELS  AND  SUFFERINGS 

OF 

THOMAS  ¥.  SMITH. 

CHAPTER  I. 

THE  birth  of  the  author  —  the  early  death  of  his  father-^he  and  his 
widowed  mother  are  taken  into  her  father's  family  —  the  author 
put  out  to  service  and  deprived  of  education  —  his  labors  and  suf- 
ferings while  with  Moore  —  his  return  home—  is  put  out  the  se- 
cond time  to  a  Mr.  Miles—  his  cruel  treatment  while  there—  is 
induced  by  young  Link  to  run  away  with  him  —  they  lodge  in  a 
gravel  pit  —are  taken  out  by  a  company  of  Gipsys  and  carried 
to  a  cave  in  a  wood  —  conversation  with  the  Gipsys,  and  his 
adoption  by  them. 

I  was  born  of  respectable  parents  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Lewisham,  County  of  Kent  in  England.  My 
father's  name  was  Alfred  Smith,  and  he  survived  my 
birth  only  about  three  years.  Death  then  came,  and 
with  its  iron  grasp,  severed  the  ties  of  nature  and 
love,  which  bound  us  together  as  a  happy  family  ;  and 
thus  deprived  me  of  the  natural  protector  and  guardian 
of  my  youth. 


My  father's  spirit  took  its  flight 
^|?o  realms  of  joy  and  pure  delight. 


My  mother,  being  left  destitute  with  a  helpless  babe, 
to  the  mercy  of  an  unfriendly  world,  now  took  shelter 
beneath  her  parental  roof.  Her  parents,  although  not 
in  very  favorable  circumstances,  did  not  hesitate  to  wel- 
come their  own  dear  and  unfortunate  child  to  their 
paternal  protection. 

I  resided  beneath  my  grandfather's  hospitable  roof 
five  years,  enjoying  the  productions  of  nature's  bounty 
in  proportion  to  our  limited  circumstances. 


6  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

As  time  rolled  on  I  was  sometimes  sent  to  take  care  of 
the  old  gentleman's  lambs  to  prevent  them  from  getting 
into  our  neighbor's  pasture.  Another  branch  of  my  em- 
ployment was  that  of  leading  my  grandmother  to  meet- 
ing or  to  any  other  place  which  her  business  or  wishes 
called  her. 

She  became  blind  when  my  mother  was  a  little  girl. 
However,  for  many  years,  she  performed  the  duties  of 
her  domestic  circle  with  extreme  exactness  and  discre- 
tion, to  the  astonishment  of  her  family  and  neighbors. 

Ah  !  poor  woman !  It  is  with  deep  and  painful 
emotions  of  heart,  that  I  often  recall  to  my  recollection 
her  fond  parental  caresses,  which  on  me  were  so  lav- 
ishly bestowed. 

I  was  now  seven  years  of  age,  and  it  was  thought 
advisable  by  my  parents,  that  1  should  be  put  out  to 
spine  place  where  I  might  be  kept  with  more  strict- 
ness, in  order  to  prevent  me  from  associating  with  wick- 
ed boys,  whose  influence  in  all  probability  would  have 
destroyed  the  seeds  of  morality,  which  were  carefully 
sown  in  my  youthful  heart  by  my  pious  mother.  Ac- 
cordingly a  place  was  procured.  The  day  was  appoint- 
ed for  my  departure,  and  my  mother  employed  all  pos- 
sible means  to  prepare  me  for  it.  This  being  the  first 
time  I  was  to  leave  my  mother,  it  proved  to  be  a  severe 
trial.  1  found  that  I  was  now  no  longer  to  be  indulged 
with  a  fond  mother's  care,  no  longer  to  be  caressed  by 
a  tender  and  indulging  grandmother.  I  expostulated 
with  my  parents  to  permit  me  to  remain  with  them  un- 
til I  should  finish  my  education,  which  I  had  tbut 
just  commenced.  But  all  my  expostulations  were 
in  vain,  as  they  deemed  it  expedient  for' my  future 
welfare  that  1  should  become  experimentally  acquainted 
with  labor  in  my  young  days,  in  order  that  by  its  means 
I  might  obtain  an  honorable  subsistence  in  after  life. 
Poor  misguided  parents!  Having  themselves  been  depriv- 
ed of  the  inestimable  blessing  of  education,  they  knew 
not  the  value  of  it  in  their  offspring.  This  indeed  was 
a  great  error,  the  magnitude  of  which  I  shall  ever  de- 
plore. Had  my  parents  allowed  me  to  acquire  a  com- 
mon English  education,  I  should  have  been  qualified, 


%      OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  i 

in  some  degree,  to  become  a  useful  member  of  society, 
and  in  all  probability  it  would  have  had  a  great  influence 
in  preventing  me  from  wandering  away  from  them  and 
would  have  prevented  the  final  separation,  which  subse- 
quently took  place  between  us. 

All  things  being  now  ready,  1  took  my  departure  in 
company  with  my  mother,  with  a  tremulous  heart  and 
weeping  eyes,  for  my  new  master's  house.  My  mas- 
ter, Mr.  Edward  Moore,  instructed  me  how  to  perform 
the  various  duties  of  my  office,  which  was  that  of  an 
errand-boy.  He  was  a  man  in  comfortable  circum- 
stances in  life.  His  family  consisted  of  nine  persons ; 
himself  and  wife,  his  sister  and  niece,  his  wife's  mother 
and  sister,  and  three  domestics.  As  I  was  but  a  small 
boy  my  wages  were  small  also,  it  being  only  one  shil- 
ling per  week. 

I  had  now  been  three  weeks  with  Mr.  Moore's 
family,  during  which  time  I  had  been  to  market  several 
times  with  Mr.  Moore,  and  had  become  acquainted  with 
his  usual  places  of  trade.  One  morning  he  sent  for  me. 
On  appearing  before  him  he  asked  me  if  I  thought  my- 
self capable  of  going  to  market  and  purchasing  such 
things  as  he  should  direct  me.  1  answered  in  the  af- 
firmative. Accordingly  I  was  supplied  with  money  and 
was  sent  with  particular  orders  to  purchase  things  and 
return  with  all  possible  dispatch.  On  my  return  he 
seemed  to  be  well  pleased  with  me.  After  that  I  was 
sent  to  market  frequently.  One  morning  on  my  return 
from  market  I  put  the  change,  which  was  left,  on  the  ta- 
ble where  I  was  accustomed  to  leave  it.  After  Mr. 
Moore  had  done  his  breakfast  he  called  for  me  as  usual 
to  give  him  an  account  of  what  1  had  bought.  I  went 
immediately  to  the  table  where  I  had  left  the  change, 
took  it  up  and  gave  it  to  Mr.  Moore.  When  he 
examined  the  account  he  found  that  the  money  was  de- 
ficient a  shilling.  I  was  at  a  loss  to  know  what  had 
become  of  it,  as  I  was  perfectly  satisfied  the  change  was 
correct  when  I  left  it  on  the  table.  Mr.  Moore  over- 
looked this  misfortune  of  mine,  but  not  without  en- 
tertaining some  suspicions  of  my  honesty,  as  he  plainly 
showed  on  another  occasion.  /  entertained  some  suspi- 


8  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

cion  of  a  middle  aged  woman,  who  had  taken  the  place 
of  a  chamber-maid  a  week  previous  to  the  loss  of  the 
shilling.  I  saw  her  handling  the  money  but  did  not  men- 
lion  it  to  Mr.  Moore.  Two  or  three  days  subsequent  to 
this  she  desired  me  to  accompany  her  a  short  dis- 
tance to  see  a  lady,  to  whom  she  had  some  money  to 
pay.  Agreeably  to  her  request  I  accompanied  her  to 
the  place. — After  passing  a  few  compliments  she  handed 
over  her  money,  and  I  tfas  extremely  surprised  to  see  in 
her  hand  the  identical  shilling  which  I  had  lost  from  the 
table.  The  money  was  readily  recognized  by  me  in 
consequence  of  certain  marks  which  it  bore. 

Mr.  Moore,  notwithstanding  the  unfavorable  condition 
in  which  I  stood  with  him,  still  continued  to  send  me 
to  market,  occasionally. 

A  week  subsequent  to  the  transaction  taking  place,  I 
gave  Mr.  Moore  as  usual  the  change,  which  was  left. 
When  he  examined  it,  it  was  found  deficient  a  six-pence. 
I  did  not  know  what  to  say  or  do.  I  well  knew 
that  the  change  was  correct,  when  I  left  it  on  the  table. 
However,  Mr.  Moore  did  not  say  much  to  me,  but  I 
perceived  by  his  stern  countenance  that  he  was  dis- 
pleased. 

About  this  time  Mrs.  Moore's  mother  and  sister  leas- 
ed a  tenement  and  I  was  employed  in  removing  such 
things  as  I  could  well  manage,  for  which  services  the 
old  lady  rewarded  me  with  a  silver  shilling.  The  morn- 
ing following  I  was  again  sent  to  the  market  and  again 
the  change  was  found  deficient  a  few  pence.  Mr. 
Moore  at  this  time  unwisely  let  loose  the  arrow  of  his 
ungovernable  passion,  saying  that  I  was  a  little  rogue 
and  threatened  me  severely.  I  went  from  him  trem- 
bling and  weeping  over  my  innocent  misfortune. 

It  so  happened  that  my  mother  came  to  visit  me  on 
the  following  day.  I  was  highly  gratified  on  seeing  the 
object  of  my  tenderest  affection.  I  informed  her  of  my 
misfortune  and  the  causes  of  the  same  and  thus  gave  re- 
lief to  my  dejected  spirits.  Soon  as  it  was  ascertained 
that  my  mother  was  in  the  house,,  Mrs.  Moore  came 
io  to  see  her.  After  passing  the  usual  compliments 
Mrs.  Moore  very  politely  invited  her  to  go  up  stairs. 


OF    THOMAS     W.    SMITH. 


9 


Shortly  I  was  sent  for  to  appear  before  them.  As  soon 
as  1  appeared  my  mother  requested  me  to  give  them  the 
necessary  information  relative  to  the  money,  which  had 
been  lost.  I  related  the  whole  as  well  as  my  ability 
would  permit.  Mrs.  Moore  was  greatly  surprised  at  my 
disclosure,  but  stiU  entertained  some  doubts,  as  may 
plainly  be  seen  by  the  following  question.  She  inquired 
of  me  how  I  had  come  in  possession  of  the  shilling, 
which  I  then  had  in  my  possession.  I  informed  her, 
that  her  mother  had  the  goodness  to  give  it  to  me,  and 
the  old  lady  being  present  testified  to  the  fact,  Here 
the  matter  was  suffered  to  rest.  Sometime  subsequent 
to  this,  Mr.  Moore  called  for  me  to  bring  him  fire  to 
light  his  pipe.  I  did  not  hear  in  consequence  of  being 
in  the  garden.  One  of  the  dorneptics  informed  me  of  it 
and  immediately  I  obeyed  the  command.  On  appear- 
ing before  him  he  inquired  where  1  had  been  and  the 
cause  of  my  delay.  1  gave  him  a  reasonable  answer. 
He  appeared  to  be  very  much  out  of  temper.  He  took 
the  fire,  lit  his  pipe,  and  as  I  turned  to  go  from  him,  he 
kicked  me  severely  saying  "there  you  little  rogue,  away 
with  you  and  be  more  attentive  for  the  future." 

This  ill  treatment  without  any  provocation,  was  more 
than  1  could  possibly  endure,  and  I  immediately  quit  his 
house,  leaving  my  wearing  apparel  behind.  I  soon  ar- 
rived at  my  parents'  humble  dwelling  where  I  was  re- 
ceived with  joy  and  some  surprise.  After  communicat- 
ing to  my  mother  the  cause  of  my  departure  from  Mr. 
Moore's  family,  she  very  much  approved  of  my  resolu- 
tion. During  my  residence  with  Mr.  Moore  he  was  so 
generous  as  to  present  me  with  a  suit  of  summer  clothes. 

Thus  ended  my  first  service  for  a  man  who  "looked 
suspiciously  on  me,  and  who  treated  me  unhandsomely 
without  making  the  least  effort  to  ascertain  the  truth  by 
which  he  might  have  imparted  justice  where  justice  was 
due. 

I  was  next  put  out  to  one  Mr.  Miles,  a  twine-spinner 
by  trade.  He  was  a  man  of  dark  complexion,  high 
cheek  bones,  sunken  eyes  and  stern  countenance.  His 
appearance  made  a  very  unfavorable  impression  on  my 
mind.  This  was  my  first  effort  in  physiognomy.  I  was 
"2 


10  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

not,  however  in  the  least  mistaken.  He  proved  out  by 
his  unmanly  and  inhuman  behavior,  all  the  rascality, 
which  was  depicted  in  his  countenance.  My  employ- 
ment was  to  turn  the  spinning  wheel,  for  which  toilsome 
labor  I  was  compensated  with  my  board  and  I8d.  per 
week.  For  the  first  week  things  went  on  smoothly. 
One  winter's  morning,  (I  have  the  greatest  imaginable 
reason  ever  to  remember  that  unlucky  day,)  as  we  were 
going  to  our  work  I  had  the  misfortune  to  fall  in  the 
street,  by  which  I  skinned  the  palm  of  my  hand,  and 
thus  inflicted  a  severe  wound,  which  partly  deprived  me 
of  the  use  of  it.  The  following  morning  my  hand  felt 
very  stiff  and  painful,  in  consequence  of  the  cold  having 
got  into  the  wound,  which  had  not  been  dressed  since 
its  infliction.  Mr.  Miles  requested  me  to  go  to  my  usu- 
al labor.  I  informed  him  that  it  would  be  entirely  im- 
possible for  me  to  turn  the  wheel  with  one  hand,  and  1 
could  not  use  the  other  very  well.  His  reply  was,  'I'll 
make  you  turn  it  with  the  devil  to  you,  you  little  lazy 
dog"  I  found  there  was  no  possible  means  of  avoiding 
it,  and  therefore  reluctantly  proceeded  with  Mr.  Miles 
to  my  avocation.  We  commenced  our  day's  labor  and 
every  thing  went  on  with  the  usual  tranquillity  with 
the  exception  of  my  hand,  which  was  very  painful. 
While  I  was  in  the  act  of  taking  the  thread  off  the  hook 
it  slipped  from  my  hand.  Mr.  Miles  was  very  much 
exasperated.  However,  he  did  not,at  this  time  lay  his 
hand  on  me,  but  threatened  that  if  ever  I  permitted  the 
like  to  occur  again  he  would  certainly  chastise  me  with 
the  greatest  severity.  This  threat  greatly  agitated  me. 
I  trembled  with  fear.  I  sighed  for  my  parents  and  be- 
wailed my  sad  fate.  Yet  1  found  no  relief;  no  arm  to 
protect ;  no  parental  bosom  on  which  to  recline.  My 
spirits  were  depressed  and  I  fell  into  a  state  of  despon- 
dency. 

The  hour  soon  arrived  when  I  was  to  feel  the  full 
weight  of  Mr.  Miles'  denunciation  and  resentment.  The 
wheel  line  gave  way,  which  was  rather  old  and  very 
much  the  worse  for  wear.  This  disaster  exasperated  his 
unreasonable  mind  and  in  a  great  measure  prepared  him 
to  execute  his  previous  threat.  He  soon  repaired  the 


OF    THOM1S    W.    SMITH.  11 

injury  which  was  done,  amid  volleys  of  imprecations, 
which  proceeded  from  his  polluted  mouth.  I  trembled 
exceedingly,  as  I  was  not  accustomed  to  hear  such  pro- 
fane language.  The  wheel-line  being  now  repaired  we 
again  commenced  spinning.  My  hands  by  this  time 
had  become  so  numb  as  to  be  incapable  of  holding  any- 
thing between  my  fingers.  The  thread  was  now  to  be 
taken  off  and  I  left  the  crank  with  that  intention  :  when 
on  stepping  over  the  stand  which  supported  the  wheel 
I  stumbled  over  it  and  fell  on  my  face  and  hands,  the 
result  of  which  was  a  cut-lip  and  a  bloody  nose,  at 
which  I  was  very  much  alarmed,  having  never  before  met 
with  such  a  disaster.  I  bled  freely.  Mr.  Miles,  whose 
passion  had  not  yet  abated,  now  lustily  cried  out  while 
I  was  endeavoring  to  wipe  off  the  blood  :  "  make 
haste  you  little  rascal,  and  take  off  the  thread."  I  en- 
deavored to  obey  his  command  but  in  vain  ;  his  passion 
raged  and  he  got  there  before  me.  This  unreasonable 
man  now  gave  vent  to  all  the  springs  of  his  malicious 
passion.  He  executed  his  previous  denunciation  by  treat- 
ing me  in  the  most  brutal  and  inhuman  manner.  This 
cruel  monster  beat  me  with  such  severity  that  the  bruises 
were  plainly  to  be  seen  two  months  after  their  infliction. 
1  did  not  leave  Mr.  Miles  at  this  time  in  consequence  of 
the  great  distance  which  separated  my  parents  from  me. 
I  therefore  was  obliged  to  endure  all  the  abuse,  which 
he  thought  proper  to  heap  upon  me.  During  the  time 
of  my  residence  with  him  I  had  become  acquainted 
with  a  boy  who  lived  at  a  little  distance,  with  a  Mr.  West, 
a  green  grocer.  This  unfortunate  hoy's  name  was  John 
Link.  He  was  from  twelve  to  thirteen  years  of  age. 
He  was  an  artful  and  fearless  boy,  and  was  also  shame- 
fully ill  treated.  We  were  in  the  habit  of  meeting  in  the 
evening,  and  mutually  communicating  our  feelings. 
Things  with  us  went  on  well  for  a  while.  One  evening 
after  returning  from  work,  Mrs.  Miles  sent  me  of  an 
errand.  It  was  to  get  a  pound  of  butter.  1  bought  it 
and  was  returning  home  with  all  possible  speed,  when 
squczing  through  the  crowd  in  the  street!  was  pushed 
down  ;  the  butter  fell  from  my  hand,  and  before  it  could 
be  recovered  it  was  trodden  under  foot  by  the  busy 


12  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

crowd.  I  ran  home  crying  mournfully  and  related  my 
misfortune  to  Mrs.  Miles.  As  soon  as  she  heard  it,  she 
rose  from  the  chair  with  her  hands  uplifted  loudly 
exclaiming  :  "  Oh  !  you  careless  little  villian  !  I  will 
teach  you  how  to  be  more  careful  for  the  future. " 
So  saying  she  took  the  broom  and  struck  me  on  my 
shoulders  and  head  several  times.  So  severe  were  her 
blows,  that  she  raised  several  bumps  on  my  head.  Af- 
ter this  John  Link  and  I  met  at  the  usual  place  to  re- 
late our  misfortunes  to  each  other.  He  informed  me 
that  Mr.  West  had  unmercifully  whipped  him.  He 
stated  that  he  had  resolved  to  leave  and  seek  his 
fortune  elsewhere.  I  inquired  of  him  where  he  intend- 
ed to  go.  He  said  he  was  going  to  Dartford,  a  prosper- 
ous village  with  a  population  of  ten  thousand  inhabitants, 
situated  ten  miles  from  Lewisham  and  fourteen  from 
Bury  St.  Edmunds,  the  place  where  we  then  resided.  I 
interrogated  him  respecting  his  motive  for  going  at  such 
a  distance  from  his  home.  His  answer  was  to  this  effect, 
"  I  am  determined  to  go  some  where,  where  it  will  be 
impossible  for  my  parents  to  find  me."  "  For,"  con- 
tinued he,  "  it  is  of  no  use  for  me  to  go  home  ;  they 
will  put  me  out  again — they  take  all  my  wages  and 
spend  it  for  gin,  and  I  am  obliged  to  go  bare-footed  in 
consequence  of  it."  I  enquired  of  him  how  he  could 
go  to  Dartford  without  money.  His  answer  was,  that 
he  was  going  to  ask  Mr.  West  for  permission  to  go  and 
see  his  parents  and  for  his  wages  to  take  home  to  his 
mother  the  amount  of  which  would  be  Is.  which  he 
thought  would  be  sufficient  to  sustain  him  until  he  could 
find  employment. 

After  Link  had  disclosed  the  whole  of  his  plan,  he 
advised  me  to  adopt  it  in  every  respect  and  accompany 
him.  I  withstood  him  some  time.  I  stated  that  our 
money,  provided  we  should  succeed  in  getting  it,  was 
not  sufficient  to  pay  the  stage  fare  and  support  us  if  we 
should  be  so  unfortunate  as  not  to  find  a  place  imme- 
diately after  our  arrival  there.  "  As  for  the  stage  fare/* 
said  he,  "  we  need  not  pay  any  thing.  All  we  have 
to  do  is  to  get  every  thing  ready  and  when  the  stage 
passes  we  will  jump  up  behind  it  and  hang  on  as  far  as 
it  will  carry  us  on  our  road." 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  13 

After  I  had  fully  considered  my  condition,  I  came  to 
the  conclusion,  that  if  I  must  labor  far  from  home,  I 
would  endeavor  to  find  a  situation,  where  I  should  be 
used  more  humanely  than  I  had  been  hitherto. 

Next  evening  Link  and  I  met  again,  and  I  informed 
him,  that  I  h:d  formed  the  resolution  to  adopt  his  plan 
in  every  respect.  The  following  Saturday  was  the  day 
agreed  upon  to  ask  for  our  money  and  permission  to 
visit  our  parents,  and  we  put  our  resolution  into  prac- 
tice and  fortunately  succeeded  in  our  undertaking.  Next 
morning  we  commenced  our  journey,  it  being  Sabbath 
day.  We  traveled  with  our  little  bundles  over  our 
shoulders  to  the  bank  of  Blackheath  Pond,  which  was 
six  miles  distance  from  the  place  of  departure.  Here 
we  sat  down  to  rest  our  wearied  limbs  and  eat  our  scanty 
meal,  which  consisted  of  dry  bread,  having  had  the  pre- 
caution to  provide  ourselves  each  with  a  three-penny 
loaf. 

Blackheath  is  situated  on  the  south  of  Greenwich 
Park,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  a  handsome  built, 
brick  wall,  which  incloses  the  Park.  This  heath  con- 
tains some  hundred  acres  of  land  and  is  covered  with  the 
shrub  called  black-heath,  from  which  it  derives  its  name. 
It  is  also  noted  for  its  celebrated  race  ground.  It  is  a  sum- 
mer rendezvous  for  the  Gipsys  who  spread  their  tents  in 
that  delightful  spot. 

We  traveled  until  after  the  sun  had  gone  down,  and  we 
had  not  as  yet  arrived  at  any  habita'ion,  where  we  could 
obtain  a  shelter  from  the  chilling  winds  of  night.  We  were 
very  much  fatigued  and  felt  solicitous  to  obtain  some  place 
where  we  could  rest  our  wearied  limbs,  having  travelled 
ten  miles,  a  distance  which  we  had  never  walked  before. 
We  continued  our  journey  until  we  came  to  the  side  of  a 
hill  where  we  found  a  gravel-pit,  in  which  notwithstanding 
the  severity  of  the  cold,  we  took  up  our  lodgings  for  the 
night.  But  neither  the  severity  of  the  weather 
nor  the  weariness  of  our  stiff  limbs  had  the  least 
tendency  to  deprive  us  of  the  enjoyment  of  a  sweet  re- 
pose. We  had  not  been  many  hours  enjoying  our  sandy 
bed  when  we  were  awakened  by  a  loud  noise,  like  the 
barking  or  growling  of  dogs.  On  arousing  we  were  very 


14  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

much  surprised  at  seeing  before  us  four  large  English 
mastiffs,  by  which  we  were  so  frightened,  that  we  hard- 
ly dare  move  or  breathe.  Presently  we  saw  two  men 
coming  toward  us. 

(  Hallo,'  says  one,  (  what  is  here  ?'  They  approached 
us.  The  dogs  stood  by  them  wagging  their  tails  ;  now 
looking  at  us  and  then  at  their  masters,  as  if  they  were 
waiting  for  the  word  of  command  to  seize  us,  as  their 
prey.  After  they  had  strictly  examined  us  they  with- 
drew a  short  distance  and  held  a  consultation  for  a  few 
minutes  and  returned  saying  :  "  come,  my  little  boys, 
you  must  go  with  us  and  we  will  take  you  to  a  place 
where  you  may  sleep  comfortably  and  free  from  all 
danger." 

We  immediately  complied  with  their  request  having 
no  inclination  to  do  otherwise.  We  travelled  on  the 
highway  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  and  then  we  turned 
into  a  lane  and  proceeded  to  the  north.  In  this  lane  we 
met  the  third  man,  who  also  was  of  the  company,  with 
two  dogs  and  an  ass.  We  travelled  from  one  lane  into 
another,  a  distance  of  four  or  five  miles,  until  we  arrived 
at  the  base  of  a  high  and  spacious  hill,  whose  sides  were 
covered  with  thick  and  lofty  woods.  We  entered  the 
woods  and  travelled  in  a  zigzag  manner  toward  the  sum- 
mit of  the  hill,  which  was  crowned  with  a  high,  strong, 
and  ancient  castle,  whose  blackened  and  terrific  wall  be- 
spoke to  its  observer  the  days  of  William  the  Conquer- 
or. We  proceeded  until  we  arrived  to  the  north  side  of 
the  hill,  which  was  secluded  from  society.  Here  we 
catne  in  contact  with  the  perpendicular  side  of  the  hill, 
which  was  very  thickly  inclosed  with  the  stately  oak 
and  majestic  elm.  We  continued  travelling  along  by 
the  side  of  this  precipice  the  distance  of  two  hundred 
yards.  We  then  approached  two  immense  lofty  and 
stately  oaks,  whose  boughs  and  leafless  branches  inter- 
ming^d  ;  and  as  they  partly  rested  on  the  side  of  the  hill, 
formed  a  most  beautiful  inclosure,  into  which  we  were 
led  by  our  conductors.  This  inclosure  being  forty  or 
fifty  feet  in  length  led  us  to  the  side  of  the  hill,  in  which 
was  a  gap,  about  eight  feet  in  breadth,  which  ushered 
us  into  a  capacious  cavern,  which  had  the  appearance  of 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  15 

having  been  made  by  human  hands.  It  was  hid  from 
view  by  the  immense  boughs,  by  which  it  was  overhung. 
It  was  between  two  and  three  o'clock  in  the  morning 
when  we  were  introduced  into  our  new  habitation.  We 
were  then  led  in  the  dark  to  a  heap  of  straw  and  com- 
manded to  lie  down  and  rest.  Presently  one  of  the  men 
came  and  covered  us  over  with  a  couple  of  blankets. 
We  soon  fell  into  a  sound  sleep  in  which  we  buried  for 
a  few  hours  the  toils  and  anxieties  which  we  had  endur- 
ed the  preceding  day.  When  we  awoke  from  our  sleep, 
in  the  morning  we  found  ourselves  in  a  dark  and  se- 
questered cavern.  On  looking  around  me  I  beheld 
three  brownish,  robust,  good  looking  females,  whose 
countenances  bespoke  the  enjoyment  of  heahh  and  vigor 
of  life,  two  small  children,  and  the  three  men  who 
had  conducted  us  thither.  JNear  the  mouth  of  the 
cavern  were  three  asses  and  six  dogs.  These  con- 
stituted the  whole  number  of  inmates  and  domestic  ani- 
mals of  our  new  habitation. 

When  breakfast  was  ready  we  were  invited  to  set  by 
a  good  turf-fire  and  participate  with  them  of  an  excellent 
repast,  which  the  women  had  prepared  of  good  lamb- 
chop, — which  I  presume  was  stolen  the  previous  night 
— a  good  cup  of  coffee,  some  bpiled  potatoes  and  bread. 
However,  we  made  an  excellent  breakfast. 

After  we  had  participated  of  their  repast,  one  of  the 
men,  who  was  frequently  addressed  by  the  members  of 
the  company  by  the  appellation  of  Mr.  Jack  and  whom 
we  subsequently  ascertained  to  be  the  captain  of  the 
company,  interrogated  us  respecting  our  parentage,  the 
place  of  our  nativity,  the  cause  of  our  leaving  home, 
and  the  place  of  our  intended  destination.  We  answer- 
ed every  question  with  honest  simplicity  to  the  admira- 
tion and  satisfaction  of  the  company.  As  soon  as  we 
had  accomplished  our  recital,  one  of  these  brawny  queens 
of  the  forest  took  me  into  her  lap  and  expressed  her 
sympathy.  She  addressed  Mr.  Jack,  her  husband,  to 
the  following  purpose  :  "  Jt  is  my  ardent  and  sincere 
desire  to  adopt  this  little  boy,  for  you  know,  Mr.  Jack, 
he  will  be  company,  beside  being  useful  to  us  for  many 
purposes  as  we  travel  through  the  country."  Mr,  Jack 


16  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

then  addressed  me  gruffly,  saying  ;  "  Well,  my  little 
man,  you  have  heard  what  the  lady  has  said  ;  she  wish- 
es you  to  stay  with  us,  and  go  where  we  go.  What  say 
you  ;  will  you  stay  ?  We  will  treat  you  with  parental 
kindness,  and  you  shall  have  plenty  to  eat,  and  that  ot 
the  best  which  the  land  can  afford,  and  but  little  to  do  ; 
besides,  you  will  see  new  places  very  often,  and  shall  also 
ride  on  my  'Arabian,9  (meaning  his  ass,)  to  every  place 
where  we  may  go."  These  fascinating  inducements,  so 
artfully  presented  to  my  young  and  tender  mind,  shone 
with  such  sparkling  lustre  before  my  eyes,  that  I  found 
it  impossible  to  resist  their  proposals,  and  therefore  1  was 
readily  induced  to  acquiesce.  Link  had  a  similar  offer 
made  to  1pm  by  one  of  the  other  females ;  and  he  very 
readily  acquiesced. 

This  female  who  adopted  Link  had  a  beautiful  babe, 
of  two  years  of  age,  and  Link  was  occasionally  to  take 
care  of  it,  while  she  went  in  company  with  the  other 
women  to  the  neighboring  villages  10  impose  on  the  hon- 
est credulity  of  the  villagers  by  pretending  to  tell  for- 
tunes. 

This  science  of  fortune-telling,  which  these  queens  of 
the  forest  pretended  to  possess,  is  a  means,  to  which 
they  have  cunningly  resorted  to  obtain  an  easy  liveli- 
hood by  imposing  on  the  credulous  and  ignorant  mass  of 
the  more  '  refined'  part  of  society. 

By  this  time  Link,  who  was  an  artful  boy,  began  to  en- 
tertain suspicions,  that  we  had  fallen  among  Gipsys  and 
attempted  to  inform  me  of  it  by  a  whisper,  but  was 
heard  by  one  of  the  men  who  accosted  him  thus ;  c  Yes 
my  boy,  you  are  right ;  we  are  jolly  Gipsys,  sons  of 
liberty,  who  are  not  confined  to  one  particular  place 
by  relatives,  houses  or  any  thing  of  an  earthly  nature.  We 
go  here,  and  there,  and  everywhere,  and  are  like  the 
eagle,  which  is  a  bird  of  liberty  and  flies  wherever  it 
sees  its  prey.  Is  not  this  a  better  way  to  live  than  to 
be  confined  to  a  master  and  be  whipped  like  a  slave,  in 
the  same  manner  that  you  have  been?'  pointing  to  us. 
"  We  do  not  intend  to  whip  you  or  injure  you  in  any 
degree  whatsoever.  And  now  since  you  have  consent- 
ed to  stay  with  us,  boys,  you  must  be  baptised  in  order 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  17 

to  become  a  Gipsy."  So  saying,  he  got  a  bottle  of  gin 
and  said ;  "  now  boys,  you  must  say  after  me, '  I  will  be  a 
Gipsy  ;  I  shall  be  a  Gipsy  and  a  son  of  the  forest.' " 
So  saying,  he  sprinkled  some  gin  on  our  heads,  saying  ; 
"  there  boys,  you  are  become  the  sons  of  liberty  !  Now 
you  must  shake  hands  with  all  the  company."  So  they 
all  shook  hands  with  us  and  hailed  us  as  jolly  young 
Gipsys.  It  was  now  near  mid-day,  and  Mr.  Jack  took 
us  out  of  the  cavern.  c  There,'  said  he,  '  do  you  know 
where  you  are  ?*  '  No,'  we  replied.  And  how  could  we 
know  ?  We  saw  not  any  thing  before  us  but  a  thicket  ; 
nor  over  us  but  the  intermingled  boughs  and  branches  of 
the  high  and  proud  English  oak,  and  the  majestic  elm, 
which  obscured  the  view  of  the  blue  sky.  '  Here,'  con- 
tinued he,  *  are  a  plenty  of  rabbits  and  foxes  that  will  at- 
tack you  and  bite  you  to  death  if  you  should  happen  to 
stray  away  alone  in  the  woods.'  This  was  said  to  in- 
timidate us,  that  we  might  not  stray  away  from  the 
cavern,  and  we  being  credulous  very  readily  credited  it. 
Link  and  I  had  now  to  undergo  a  daily  operation,  and 
that  was  to  be  washed  with  walnut-water  every  day  in 
order  to  tan  our  skins  brown.  This  was  deemed  neces- 
sary in  order  to  appear  Gipsy-like,  a  brown  skin  being 
their  uniform. 


18  LIFE  AND  TRAVELS 


CHAPTER  II. 

Departure  from  the  cavern — travels  with  the  Gipsy s  ;  description  of 
places  ;  description  of  a  body  of  smugglers  and  their  galleys;  the 
condition  of  the  common  classes  of  society  ;  the  cause  of  smug- 
gling in  England ;  encamps  at  Rochester  city;  visits  to  the 
Sun-tap  ;  cultivates  an  acquaintance  with  Willie  the  sailor-boy; 
conversation  with  a  sea-captain  ;  induced  to  go  a  voyage  to 
.North  Shields  ;  absconds  from  the  Gipsys  ;  character  and  habits 
of  these  singular  people. 

We  resided  with  this  company  of  Gipsys  in  their  win- 
ter retreat  for  nearly  three  months,  during  which  time 
we  were  well  supplied  with  every  kind  of  provision. 

Early  in  the  spring  the  company  commenced  active 
operations  in  providing  suitable  necessaries  of  life  for  the 
ensuing  year.  Accordingly  the  necessary  arrangements 
were  made  for  our  departure.  Every  thing  which  was 
deemed  unserviceable  for  us  in  our  travels,  was  carefully 
deposited  in  the  side  of  the  hill,  in  a  place  which  they 
had  previously  excavated  to  conceal  such  things  as  they 
unlawfully  possessed.  Accordingly  each  man,  with  his 
family  and  animals,  was  to  travel  a  half  day's  journey 
from  the  other.  This  was  cunningly  devised  to  prevent 
the  attention  of  the  public  being  attracted  by  us,  which 
evidently  would  have  been  the  case,  had  the  whole  of 
the  company  traveled  together.  We  were  to  travel  in 
this  manner  towards  a  particular  place  in  ihe  vicinity  of 
Maidstone,  where  we  were  all  to  meet  and  pitch  our 
tents  at  half  a  mile's  distance  from  each  other.  This 
was  done  to  divide  the  distance  equally,  for  the  purpose 
of  affording  equal  conveniences  for  all  to  visit  and  assist 
each  other  and  to  prevent  the  possibility  of  public  suspi- 
cion. Mr.  Jack  and  his  family  were  the  last  that  left  the 
cavern.  We  traveled  15  miles  that  day  through  lanes 
and  by-roads,  seldom  traveling  on  the  high-way.  Short- 
ly after  the  sun  had  descended  beneath  the  western 
horizon,  we  pitched  our  little  tent  in  a  lane.  Next 
morning  we  took  down  the  tent  and  again  resumed  our 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  19 

journey.  We  traveled  on  the  highway,  passing  villages 
and  beautiful  fields  on  the  right  and  left.  I  could  not 
help  admiring  the  beauty  of  the  scenery.  We  arrived 
at  the  place  of  our  destination,  pitched  our  tent,  took 
supper  and  soon  retired  to  rest  on  a  bag  of  straw,  lying 
on  the  ground,  where  I  slept  as  soundly  as  if  I  had 
reposed  on  a  bed  of  down.  My  foster  parents'  bed 
consisted  of  canvas,  stretched  on  four  sticks,  which 
were  driven  into  the  ground  for  the  purpose. 

Next  morning  I  was  the  first  member  of  the  family 
that  rose  to  behold  the  beautiful  town  of  Maidstone, 
which  lay  spread  out  on  the  plain  below.  We  resided 
in  the  vicinity  of  Maidstone  several  weeks,  fully  enjoy- 
ing the  comforts  which  a  Gipsy's  life  imparts.  Our 
employment  during  our  residence  here  chiefly  consisted 
in  telling  the  fortunes  of  those,  who  came  to  us  from 
the  town  for  that  purpose,  a  custom  which  is  very  pre- 
valent in  England. 

The  credulous  individual  whose  fortune  is  told  rewards 
the  fortune-teller  with  a  shilling,  as  an  equivalent. 

During  the  time  of  our  residence  here,  Link  and  I  had 
frequent  interviews,  in  one  of  which  he  informed  me 
that  he  was  highly  pleased  with  his  new  mode  of  living. 
1  sincerely  cone u red  with  him.  And  well  we  might  be 
highly  pleased.  Our  living  was  good  and  the  usage 
still  bem.-r,  having  little  or  nothing  to  do,  but  to  catch 
rabbits  and  other  game,  when  opportunity  offered. 

After  we  had  resided  here  for  some  weeks,  and  our 
fortune-telling  business  becoming  rather  dull,  it  was 
deemedvexpediem  by  the  company  to  leave  the  place  and 
proceed  to  our  cavern  by  a  circuitous  route,  which  would 
enable  us  to  pass  through  a  number  of  villages  before 
reaching  our  rustic  homo. 

Accordingly  we  proceeded  on  our  journey,  adopting 
the  same  method  as  in  our  previous  travels  to  Maidstone. 
We  encamped  in  the  course  of  our  journey  in  the  vicin- 
ity of  many  large  and  beautiful  villages,  whose  honest, 
industrious  and  credulous  inhabitants  visited  us  daily 
during  our  stay  to  learn  their  fortunes.  At  last,  after  an 
absence  of  three  months,  during  which  we  had  traveled 
over  one  half  of  the  county,  we  arrived  at  our  seques- 


20  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

tered  cavern,  wjbich  was  hid  in  the  brow  of  Shutes' 
Hill.  Here  the  company  once  more  united  and  merri- 
ly spent  their  time  in  harmless  carousal.  After  a  few 
days  spent  in  this  manner,  and  having,  deposited  in  the 
hidden  cells  such  things  as  remained,  we  made  prepara- 
tions for  another  journey. 

It  was  agreed  by  the  company,  that  Margate  was  now 
the  place  of  our  destination.  This  being  a  town  of  high 
celebrity  for  the  resort  of  the  London  nobility  in  the  sum- 
mer season.  Thither,  thousands  resort  to  enjoy  the  ben- 
efit of  the,  sea  air,  and  others  the  refreshing  luxury  of  a 
salt-water  bath.  It  was  thought  by  the  company  that 
this  journey  would  prove  highly  favorable,  notwithstand- 
ing the  great  distance  we  had  to  go,  which  was  60  or 
70  miles.  Accordingly  we  proceeded  on  our  journey, 
traveling  at  the  rate  of  ten  miles  per  day,passing  by  and 
through  many  pleasant  villages  and  cities.  We  passed 
through  Dartford,  Rochester  city,  Milton  and  Fevers- 
ham. 

The  reader  will  doubtless  remember  that  Dartford 
was  the  place  of  our  intended  destination  when  we  were 
found  in  the  gravel  pit  by  Mr.  Jack  and  his  companions. 
While  passing  through  the  village  Mr.  Jack  addressing 
me  by  my  new  appellation  said  :  "  Well,  young  Jack, 
this  is  the  great  and  beautiful  village  of  Dartford,  where 
you  was  going  when  I  found  you  in  the  gravel  pit.  Do 
you  wish  to  stay  here  now  without  any  friends  to  take 
care  of  you."  I  informed  him  that  I  had  no  desire  to 
stay  there  or  any  other  place,  but  wished  to  go  with  them 
to  Margate  or  any  other  place  where  they  might  go  ;  sa 
strong  was  my  inclination  for  traveling  and  seeing  new 
objects. 

The  next  place  we  came  to,  of  any  note,  was  Roch- 
ester city.  We  passed  through  and  encamped  on  the 
green  in  the  south-east  part.  After  having  rested  for  the 
night  we  proceeded  on  our  journey  toward  the  town  of 
Milton,  sometimes  traveling  in  \lie  night,  at  others  by 
da/.  We  passed  through  Milton  in  the  night.  Next 
day  we  encamped  in  the  vicinity  of  Feversham  and  spent 
the  night  there.  We  again  took  up  sticks  and  continued 
our  progress,  passing  through  the  south  part  of  the  city 


OF    THOMAS    W    SMITH-  21 

early  in  the  morning.  Next  evening  we  encamped  at  a 
late  hour  on  the  south  of  the  village  of  Hearn.  Our 
next  place  was  St.  Nicholas,  where  we  spent  part  of  a 
a  day  and  night.  We  left  it  at  night  and  proceeded 
toward  Margate  where  we  arrived  on  the  following1  after- 
noon. We  pitched  our  tent  near  the  shore,  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile's  distance  from  the  baths.  On  our 
arrival  at  Margate  we  again  united  with  our  company, 
who  had  encamped  a  quarter  of  a  mile's  distance  from 
us.  In  Margate  we  spent  the  whole  of  the  summer, 
during  which,  we  were  constantly  visited  fay  the  Lon- 
doners, who  daily  arrived  in  the  place,  and  we  were  al- 
so indulged  with  the  friendly  visits  of  the  citizens. 

During  our  residence  at  Margate  Link  and  I  participa- 
ted in  all  the  enjoyments  which  a  Gipsys  rural  lite  would 
afford. 

As  the  fall  of  the  year  came  on,  the  visits  of  the 
Londoners  were  over,  and  it  was  deemed  advisable  by 
the  company  to  return  toward  the  city  of  Rochester, 
where  we  encamped  a  few  days,  after  which  we  remov- 
ed to  the  vicinity  of  Dartford  and  Erith,  where  we 
were  to  commence  rapid  foraging  operations,  to  provide 
resources  for  the  subsistence  of  the  company  during  the 
winter  season,  which  was  now  approaching.  The  day 
previous  to  our  departure  from  Margate,  a  transaction 
occurred  which  I  cannot  refrain  from  relating.  It  was 
about  two  hours  before  sunset ;  we  were  intensely  en- 
gaged in  viewing  the  beautiful  sea-gulls,  sportingly  flap- 
ping their  wings  against  the  elastic  elements  and  swiftly 
gliding  over  the  bosom  of  the  limpid,  briny  deep,  when 
we  beheld  four  long  black  galleys,  swiftly  rowing  toward 
the  spot  which  we  occupied.  The  rowers  were  toiling 
vehemently  to  gain  the  place  of  their  destination.  While 
contempl  iting  what  these  galleys  might  be,  we  observed 
just  over  the  bank  as  many  as  a  hundred  armed  men 
and  others  coming  toward  us  and  soon  they  stood  by  us. 
"Come,"  said  they,  "Gipsys,  if  you  don't  wish  to 
get  into  trouble,  you  had  better  take  up  your  sticks  and 
start  quickly."  We  did  not  know  what  to  make  of  it 
and  therefore  did  not  hurry  ourselves.  The  galleys  had 
by  this  time  reached  the  shore  and  were  actually  landing, 


22  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

when  unexpectedly  we  heard  a  loud  cry  among  the  men, 
"  to  arms  !  to  arms  !"  "  the  blockade  men  ;  the  block- 
ade men  !  !"  Quickly  about  one  hundred  of  the  men, 
who  were  armed  with  muskets,  advanced  a  quarter  of  a 
mile's  distance  toward  the  blockade  men,  who  wore  red 
coats.  They  were  the  marines  of  the  station  who  had 
been  watching  the  galleys  as  they  approached  the  shore 
and  whom  they  well  knew  to  be  smugglers,  and  there- 
fore carne  to  prevent  them  from  landing  their  goods,  or 
to  seize  ihem  and  their  goods  if  it  were  possible.  But 
finding  themselves  opposed  by  a  superior  force  they 
were  obliged  to  keep  at  a  respectful  distance  where  they 
endeavored  to  terrify  the  smugglers  by  pouring  a  deadly 
fire  upon  them.  But  in  this  they  were  mistaken. — 
These  men  were  not  so  easily  terrified  as  they  had  im- 
agined. Having  their  fortunes  and  liberties  at  stake, 
they  were  resolved  to  protect  their  property  and  main- 
tain their  liberties  at  the  hazard  of  their  lives.  The 
blockade  men's  fire  therefore  was  speedily  and  contin- 
ually returned.  During  the  time  that  the  fighting  party 
were  engaged  in  their  bloody  conflict,  there  were  a  hun- 
dred men  conveying  the  goods  away  into  the  country, 
out  of  danger  ;  and  the  boatmen,  who  were  over  seven- 
ty in  number,  were  engaged  in  landing  their  freights, 
which  consisted  of  silks  and  laces  worth  thousands  of 
pounds. 

As  soon  as  the  goods  were  landed,  the  boatmen  took 
to  their  boats  and  away  they  went  speedily  from  us. — 
Each  of  these  galleys  had  18  oars  ;  they  were  low  and 
narrow,  their  length  being  from  forty  to  forty-five  feet, 
while  their  extreme  breadth  did  not  exceed  seven  feet. 
I  have  since  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  a  number  of 
those  boats,  and  have  been  informed  that  they  are  built 
for  the  special  purpose  of  smuggling,  and  will  row  over 
to  France,  in  smooth  weather,  in  two  hours,  the  distance 
being  21  miles.  By  this  time  the  sun  had  descended 
beneath  the  western  hills,  and  night  had  spread  her  dark 
and  gloomy  mantle  over  us.  The  blockade  men  had 
been  severely  repulsed,  the  property  protected  and  safely 
conducted  to  the  place  of  its  destination.  On  the  fol- 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  23 

lowing  day  it  was  currently  rumored  that  several  men  of 
both  parties  had  been  severely  wounded. 

Occurrences  like  this  frequently  take  place  in  the 
County  of  Kent.  It  is  proverbially  said  that  the  Kent- 
ish men  are  all  smugglers.  The  practice  of  smuggling 
is  more  extensively  carried  on  in  Kent  than  hi  any  other 
county  in  England,  and  no  one  who  is  well  informed, 
can  possibly  deny  it.  This  state  of  things  in  England 
grows  out  of  the  extreme  poverty  and  sufferings  of  the 
lower  class  of  the  people,  who  are  crushed  to  the  earth 
by  heavy  taxation,  imposed  by  the  government  to  sup- 
port a  titled  aristocracy,  and  pay  the  interest  of  the 
enormous  national  d».bt,  incurred  in  her  career  of  \\ar 
and  oppression.  The  sufTerings  of  the  poor  and  the 
injustice  of  the  law  afford  the  only  ground  on  \Uilch 
smuggling  can  be  justified. 

VVe  took  our  departuie  from  Margate  late  in  the  after- 
noon, retracing  our  former  steps  until  we  arrived  at 
Rochester  Green,  where  we  pitched  our  tent  with  a  de- 
sign to  remain  a  week.  The  family  to  which  Link  was 
attached  pitched  their  tent  on  the  other  side  of  the  river, 
near  the  foot  of  the  bridge,  it  being  a  favorable  position 
for  business.  The  other  family  pitched  their  tent  down 
toward  Chatham. 

On  the  day  after  our  anival  at  Rochester.  Mrs.  Jack 
took  her  cards  as  usual  and  went  into  the  city  to  seek 
employment.  She  returned  in  the  evening  highly  1:1  at- 
ified  with  her  day's  work.  This  she  evidently  proved 
by  taking  a  handful  of  silver  from  her  pocket,  to  the 
amount  of  twenty  shillings.  Mr.  Jack  was  extravagant- 
ly pleased  at  the  sight  of  the  money.  He  was  de- 
sirous of  knowing  where  she  had  been  to  meet  with 
such  remarkable  luck.  She  then  informed  him  that 
having  accidently  observed  some  sailors  and  their  wives 
going  into  a  public  house  by  the  waterside,  and  think- 
ing that  she  might  there  possibly  meet  with  a  chance  to 
display  her  skill,  she  followed  them  in.  On  entering 
the  Tap  Room  she  beheld  forty  or  fifty  men  and  women 
who  were  in  extravagant  carousal.  Approaching  a 
young  woman,  who  was  one  of  the  party  she  addressed 
her  in  the  following  manner  :  "  Will  you  have  your  for- 


24  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

tune  told  ?"  To  which  she  replied  in  the  affirmative. 
This  was  some  encouragement  to  her  and  prepared  the 
way  for  others.  She  soon  ascertained  that  there  was 
sufficient  employment  to  last  her  for  that  day. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Jack,  seeing  that  there  was  a  prospect 
of  doing  a  good  business  for  some  length  of  time  resolv- 
ed to  stay  at  Rochester  as  long  as  business  continued 
favorable.  They  also  deemed  it  advisable  to  adopt  a 
new  plan*  by  which  to  derive  some  income.  '  Lt  was 
this.  Thgy  were  to  boil  some  shrimps  and  I  was  to 
be  the  merchant.  1  was  to  accompany  her  with  these 
things  in  a  basket,  into  every  public  house,  to  find  cus- 
tomers for  my  merchandise.  The  plan  was  accordingly 
put  into  execution,  and  on  the  following  morning  we 
proceeded  to  the  Sun-tap,  this  being  the  place  where  she 
had  met  with  such  remarkable  good  fortune  the  prece- 
ding day.  We  arrived  there  and  I  soon  sold  out  my 
merchandise  to  the  ladies  and  sailors.  She  was  very 
soon  employed  by  them  and  made  a  tolerable  good  day's 
work. 

During  our  stay  here,  my  attention  was  attracted  by 
the  ship-boats,  which  frequently  came  to  land  the  sailors 
on  shore,  into  which  I  delighted  to  enter  and  play  with 
the  sailor  boys,  after  I  had  disposed  of  my  merchandise. 
My  inclination  for  playing  in  those  boats  daily  increased, 
and  I  embraced  every  opportunity  to  indulge  this  pro- 
pensity. A  short  distance  from  the  Sun-tap  was  a  jetty- 
head  where  small  vessels  discharged  their  cargoes  of  coal, 
and  there  were  generally  two  or  three  discharging  at  the 
same  time.  These  vessels  very  much  attracted  my  at- 
tention and  I  became  a  frequent  visitor  on  board. 

In  consequence  of  my  visits  to  the  Sun-tap  with  Mrs. 
Jack,  whom  they  took  to  be  my  mother,  I  became  famil- 
iar with  a  number  of  the  sailors  who  frequently  resorted 
to  this  place,  to  indulge  themselves  with  a  pot  of  beer 
and  a  pipe  of  tobacco.  Among  them  was  a  boy,  who 
belonged  to  a  small  brig,  lying  at  the  jetty,  loaded  with, 
coal.  With  him  I  became  intimately  acquainted  and  I 
was  frequently  invited  to  dine  with  him  on  the  brig. — 
One  day,  after  having  disposed  of  my  merchandise,  I 
obtained  permission  of  Mrs.  Jack  to  visit  my  new  friend 


OF    THOMAS    \V.    SMITH.  25 

on  board  of  the  vessel,  and  I  went  to  see  him  with  the 
intention  of  getting  some  biscuit  and  spending  an  hour 
in  play.  We  met  in  a  friendly  manner  and  soon  enga- 
ged in  playing  up  and  down  the  rigging.  Although  rny 
young  friend  possessed  considerable  advantage  over  me, 
in  consequence  of  being  older  and  having;  sailed  several 
voyages  in  the  vessel,  he  could  gain  no  advantage  over 
me  in  climbimg  up  the  rigging.  This  was  observed  by 
the  captain,  who  stood  on  the  jetty  near  the  vessel  and 
cried  out  in  the  north  country  dialect  :  'Hurra,  Willie  ! 
don't  you  let  that  land-lubber  beat  you  now  !'  Having 
fully  enjoyed  ourselves,  we  finished  our  play  and  de- 
scended to  the  deck  where  we  met  the  master  of  the 
vessel,  who  interrogated  me  respecting  the  place  of  my 
nativity  and  parentage.  I  imported  all  the  requisite  in- 
formation as  far  as  my  childish  ability  permitted  me. 
The  captain  then  enquired  of  me,  if  I  should  like  to  see 
my  parents,  to  which  1  answered  in  the  affirmative. 
He  then  asked  me  if  I  should  like  to  go  down  to  North 
Shields  with  him  in  his  brig,  as  he  was  in  need  of  a 
small  boy  to  attend  on  the  sailors.  "  If  you  go  with 
me,"  continued  he,  "  you  will  see  your  parents  in  about 
6  weeks, for  I  think  that  I  shall  have  a  freight  for  London 
by  that  time  and  then  you  can  go  and  see  your  parents 
and  come  back  to  the  brig  if  you  like  to  slay  with  us." 
I  informed  him  that  I  should  like  to  go,  but  could  not, 
for  it  was  my  opinion  that  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Jack  would  not 
l)e  willing  to  give  consent.  "  As  to  their  consent,  it  is 
of  no  consequence,  but  if  you  are  willing  to  go  J  prom- 
ise you  that  they  shall  not  find  where  you  are.  So," 
said  he,,  "you  had  better  make  up  your  mind  and  go 
with  me,  and  you  and  Willie  can  eat  and  sleep  together  ; 
besides  you  will  see  so  many  new  things  which  will  in- 
terest your  attention,  and  with  which  you  will  be  highly 
pleased.  You  will  see  a  great  many  ships,  towns,  vill- 
ages and  thousands  of  fishes  and  birds  of  all  kinds." 
These  novelties  and  promises  excited  my  youthful  mind, 
My  whole  soul  drank  deeply  of  the  fountain  of  joy  that 
seemed  open  before  me.  I  could  not  resist  the  proposal. 
I  agreed  to  sail  with  him  in  the  brig  Venus,  bound  to 
North  Shields. 

4 


26  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

On  the  following  morning,  at  high  water,  the  Venus 
hauled  out  into  the  stream  and   having  got  ready  took 
the  ebb  tide,  accompanied  by  a  favorable  breeze,  which 
swelled  the  bosom  of  the  lofty  sails,  as  she  gently  glided 
down  the  river  Medway      This  being  the  first  time  that 
I  had  ever  sailed  on  ship-board,  it  produced  a  degree  of 
excitement  in  my  tender  mind,  which  I  could  not  easily 
govern.     Every  object  on   either  side  of  the  vessel  at- 
tracted my  attention  and  I  ran  from  side  to  side,  gazing, 
unwilling  that  any  object  should  escape  my  eager  eye, 
which  I  find  is  never  satisfied   with  seeing.     Ah  !  inno- 
cent child  !     Little  did  I  think  that   I  was  then   laying 
the  foundation  of  my  subsequent  sufferings  on  the  ocean. 
I  then    looked  over  the   stern  of  the  vessel,  toward  the 
Sun-tap,  as  if  unwilling  to  leave  or  lose  sight  of  the  spot, 
where  I  had  left   Mrs.  Jack,  and  if  possible  to  catch  a 
glance  of.  the  tent  on  the   green,  to  which  I  had  so  long 
been  attached  and  under  which  I  had  so  often   indulged 
the  repose,  which  nature  demands.     But  it  was  in  vain  ; 
I  could  not  distinguish  one  place  from  another.     I  could 
not  help  at  this  moment  reflecting  with  a  degree  of  ten- 
der feeling  on  the  condition  of  my  foster  parents,  whom 
I  had  left  behind  me  to  mourn  my  unknown  fate.  These 
remarkable  wanderers  had   adopted  me   as  their  child  ; 
at  a  time  too  when  1  stood  most  in  need  of  a  friend  to 
console  my  young  and  drooping  spirits ;  and  white  I  was 
with  them   watched   over   me  with  tender  and   parental 
affection.     And  is  it  too  much  to  say  that  I  left  them  to 
mourn  over  a  lost  child  ? 

The  English  Gipsys  are  an  uncultivated,  tawny 
class  of  mendicants  and  fortune-tellers,  who  wander  about 
the  country  during  the  warm  season  of  the  year,  like 
the  ancient  Scythians,  dwelling  in  tents.  The  fortune- 
telling  is  mostly  done  by  the  women,  while  the  men  en- 
gage in  fishing  and  hunting  for  subsistence.  They  pay 
no  taxes,  acknowledge  no  superiors,  and  claim  to  be 
free.  Though  coarse  in  their  manners  and  food,  unre- 
fined and  uneducated,  they  are  in  many  respects  a  noble- 
hearted  and  generous  people.  They  generally  seclude 
themselves  from  public  view  in  the  winter  season.  This 
ihey  do  that  they  may  more  effectually  enjoy  their  dis- 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  27 

honest  gain  without  detection.  They  choose  some  fa- 
vorable spot  in  the  forests,  where  they  generally  provide 
themselves  with  a  suitable  hut,  to  shelter  them  from  the 
inclemency  of  the  weather;  but  when  they  cannot  pro- 
vide a  suitable  place  in  the  forest,  they  get  in  to  some 
miserable  hovel  on  the  outskirts  of  some  village  and  there 
spend  the  winter.  Previous  to  the  winter  months  they 
accumulate  and  deposit,  in  their  huts,  their  winter's  pro- 
vision, which  chiefly  consists  of  potatoes,  barley  and 
lamb.  They  obtain  these  articles  chiefly  from  the  far- 
mer's fields  and  flocks  whenever  an  opportunity  is  pre- 
sented. Other  necessaries  of  life  with  which  they  some- 
times indulge  they  purchase  at  the  lowest  rate. 


28  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 


CHAPTER  III. 

First  voyage  to  sea  in  the  brig  Venus  ;  arrival  at  Shields  ;  depar- 
ture ;  comes  to  anchor  near  the  Sands  •  driven  on  shore  by  a 
French  lugger ;  the  lugger  leaves  the  vessel  unmolested ;  hap- 
py congratulations  ;  failure  in  getting  the  vessel  off;  prepara- 
tions for  the  gale ;  discovery  of  her  situation;  the  gale  com- 
mences ;  the  crew  take  refuge  in  the  vessel's  tops  ;  sufferings 
during  the  gale  ;  termination  of  the  gale  ;  loss  of  the  vessel ; 
taken  off  from  the  wreck  ;  arrives  in  the  lower  hope  and  comes 
to  an  anchor  ;  ships  on  board  of  the  brig  Paragon  bound  to 
Spain. 

The  Venus,  swiftly  gliding  with  the  rippling  stream, 
passing  beautiful  prospects  on  either  side  of  the  river 
Medway,  soon  arrived  at  Sheerness,  where  laid  a  num- 
ber of  the  ships  of  the  line,  fitting  for  sea. 

I  was  struck  with  surprise  at  the  beaut'iful  prospect 
before  me  and  gazed  with  admiration  at  those  enormous 
ships,  from  whose  mast-head  waved  in  the  breeze,  the 
nation's  imperial  flag.  We  soon  passed  by  and  left 
behind  us  those  elegant  floating  bulwarks  of  old  Eng- 
land, which  are  her  pride  and  glory.  We  steered  our 
course  for  North  Shields  at  which  we  arrived  in  a  few 
days,  the  weather  having  proved  favorable. 

Shields  is  the  greatest  place  in  the  United  Kingdoms 
for  the  production  and  exportation  of  coal.  Its  numer- 
ous and  extensive  coal  mines,  which  extend  for  several 
miles  beneath  the  ocean  ;  its  beautiful  and  safe  harbor, 
and  the  advantageous  geographical  position  which  it  oc- 
cupies,imparts  to  it  a  lasting  superiority  over  its  competi- 
tors. In  addition  to  this,  she  possesses  some  thousands 
of  vessels,  which  are  continually  employed  in  the  ex- 
portation of  this  valuable  fuel. 

Four  or  five  days  had  elapsed  since  our  arrival  at 
Shields,  and  the  Venus  was  again  ready  to  proceed  on 
her  destined  voyage.  She  was  again  put  to  sea.  We 
steered  to  the  S.  S.  W.,  having  the  wind  west  and  blow- 
ing a  good  top-gallant  breeze.  In  a  few  days,  by  mak- 
ing short  tacks  in  shore,  we  arrived  opposite  the  town 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH-  29 

of  Barton,  three  leagues  in  the  offing  and  the  same  dis- 
tance from  the  mouth  of  the  great  Yarn  outh  river. 

It  was  the  intention  of  our  captain  to  hug  the  land  as 
mii^h  as  possible  in  order  to  avoid  being  taken  by  the 
French  luggers,  which  made  frequent  visits  to  our 
coast  in  foggy  weather,  and  very  frequently  took  or  des- 
troyed our  vessels.  But  in  consequence  of  the  wind 
heading  two  or  three  points  off  of  our  course  we  were 
obliged  to  sail  .  without  the  sands  which  lie  close  into  the 
land,  and  make  short  tacks  in  shore  in  order  to  keep  up 
to  the  windward  shore.  Having  been  toiling  for  some 
days  anTl  the  wind  having  become  more  unfavorable,  and 
a  dense  and  sleety  fog  setting  in,  the  master  deemed  it 
advisable  to  come  to  an  anchor  under  the  lee  of  one  of 
the  sands,  which  lie  three  leagues  off  from  the  mouth  of 
the  great  Yarmouth  river. 

The  third  day  had  begun  to  dawn  but  the  density  of 
the  fog  had  not  as  yet  diminished  in  the  least  degree, 
and  the  fog-horns  and  ship  bells  still  continued  to  sound 
in  our  ears.  Among  the  several  horns  one  was  heard  at 
various  times,  which  appeared  to  draw  near  us,  on  the 
larboard  side,  in  consequence  of  which  it  was  deemed 
advisable  to  give  the  alarm,  being  apprehensive  that  the 
sound  came  from  some  vessel  on  the  way,  which  proba- 
bly would  run  us  down,  did  we  not  make  our  posi- 
tion known.  Soon  after  having  heard  the  fog-horn  on 
our  larboard  side  we  heard  in  the  same  direction  the 
alarming  report  of  fire  arms.  This  unfavorable  omen 
very  much  alarmed  our  captain,  who  at  the  time  was 
heard  to  say,  that  he  was  apprehensive  of  a  French 
lugoer  being  nigh.  Soon  the  cry  of  "  sail  ho  /"  was 
heard  on  the  forecastle.  Every  one  on  board  was  now 
anxious  to  know  what  had  come.  She  was  discovered 
by  the  mate,  who  looked  through  his  spy  glass,  to  be  a 
large  vessel  of  some  kind.  Soon  the  mariners  caught 
sight  of  her  ;  and  as  she  loomed  up  in  the  fog,  they 
cried  out,  "it  is  a  French  lugger!  it  is  a  FrencJi 
lugger  ! !  We  are  lost  men  !  /  "  Our  captain,  who 
was  then  looking  through  his  glass,  soon  appeased  their 
fears,  by  informing  them  that  he  had  ascertained  it  to  be 
a  boat  with^a  large  sail,  steering  towards  us.  In  a  few 


30  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

minutes  they  arrived  along  side.  It  proved  to  be  a  boat 
with  four  men,  who  had  made  their  escape  from  a  col- 
lier brig,  which  had  been  boarded  by  a  French  lugger, 
a  short  distance  from  us.  The  brig's  crew  had  observed 
the  lugger  close  to  them  stretching  in  shore  across  their 
stern  in  order  to  board  them  on  the  next  tack,  and  had 
made  their  escape  by  taking  to  the  boat.  Some  of  the 
Frenchmen  who  had  boarded  the  brig,  on  perceiving 
the  boat,  at  a  distance,  fired  at  her,  and  that  caused 
the  report  which  was  heard  and  gave  us  so  much 
alarm. 

Our  captain,  having  received  this  importantfnforrria- 
tion,  immediately  resolved  not  to  be  made  a  prisoner  of 
war,  but  rather  run  the  risk  of  losing  the  vessel.  In  a 
moment  he  cried  out  with  a  voice  of  thunder:  "  All 
hands  loose  sails"  The  sails  being  loosed  and  set 
in  short  time,  the  Venus  was  moving  ifor  the  land  under 
full  sail. 

The  lugger  having  boarded  the  brig  and  not  rinding 
any  thing  of  consequence  on  board  excepting  coal,  she 
destroyed  the  vessel. 

Our  brig  having  previously  been  exposed  to  the  lug- 
ger by  the  ringing  of  our  bell  and  the  sound  of  the  fog- 
horn, she  undoubtedly  embraced  the  opportunity  of  tak- 
ing our  bearings  which  undoubtedly  proved  beneficial  to 
her  as  a  guide  to  find  us. 

The  lugger  having  scuttled  the  other  brig,  as  we 
supposed,  immediately  steered  towards  us  under  full  sail, 
with  an  evident  intention  of  making  us  her  prize.  Our 
captain  being  apprehensive  of  her  design  kept  a  con- 
stant look  out  for  her  on  our  weather  quarter,  this  being 
the  direction  in  which  he  expected  to  see  her  make  her 
appearance. 

About  three  quarters  of  an  hour  after  we  slipped  our 
anchor,  our  captain  cried  out:  "  There  she  comes  boys, 
and  we  are  lost"  The  hopes  of  escape  which  a  few 
minutes  before  had  lighted  every  countenance  now  in- 
stantly expired.  The  painful  idea  of  being  made  pris- 
oners of  war,  of  spending  a  number  of  years  in  a  mis- 
erable French  prison,  was  revolting  to  the  mind  and 
filled  every  heart  with  despondency.  But  there 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  31 

but  one  alternative  ;  either  to  run  the  vessel  on  shore 
and  thus  endanger  our  lives,  or  be  taken  by  the  lugger 
which  was  rapidly  coming  up  with  us.  Our  captain  had 
the  precaution  to  have  our  boat  ready  along  side,  in  or- 
der to  make  our  escape  after  having  run  her  on  shore, 
which  was  his  premeditated  plan,  if  no  other  possible 
means  of  escape  presented  itself  to  his  mind.  Our 
leadsman,  who  was  continually  employed  in  throwing 
the  lead  and  giving  us  the  sounding,  now  cried  out  :  "ly 
the  mark,  three."  Our  captain  cried  out :  "  port  your 
helm,  my  boy,  haul  in  your  weather  braces,  my  lads, 
qufckly  and  let  us  run  her  on  shore  and  save  ourselves  if 
possible."  "  Steady  she  goes,  my  boy,"  cried  our  cap- 
tain. "  Steady"  responded  the  helmsman-  Again  the 
leadsman  sung  out :  "  under  quarter,  iwo"  "  Steady 
she  goes,"  said  our  captain,  and  "  she  will  be  on  shoie 
in  five  minutes."  Soon  she  struck. 

The  lugger  had  by  this  time  begun  to  ascertain  that 
she  was  a  lessening  the  depth  of  her  water  ;  she  tacked 
about  and  stood  out  from  the  shore,  being  unable  to  pur- 
sue us  any  farther  in  safely. 

On  seeing  the  lugger  about,  the  captain  command- 
ed all  hands  to  the  boats  to  be  in  readiness,  to  leave  the 
vessel,  in  case  the  lugger  should  deem  it  proper  to 
send  her  boat  to  destroy  us.  All  hands  having  got  into 
the  boats  excepting  /he  captain,  who  kept  a  constant 
lookout  with  his  spy-glass.  The  Frenchman  apparently 
did  not  feel  disposed  to  send  his  boat  to  finish  our  de- 
struction, seeing  that  we  were  already  on  shore  and  in 
in  imminent  danger.  They  seemed  perfectly  satisfied 
with  our  situation  and  therefore  left  us  to  make  the  best 
we  could  of  our  perilous  case.  Happy  were  we,  when 
we  heard  the  welcome  news  from  our  captain's  lips  ; 
"  She  is  gone,  boys,  come  out  of  the  boats  !" 

Every  countenance  now  shone  with  a  hope,  and  eve- 
ry heart  beat  with  joy. 

All  hands  were  now  employed  in  taking  in  the  sails 
and  sending  down  the  top-gallant-masts  and  yards,  to 
make  the  vessel  snug  and  prepare  for  getting  her  off. 
This  being  done,  the  kedge  anchor  was  taken  out  astern 
with  great  difficulty  and  the  rope  taken  to  the  windlass 


32  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

and  we  hove  on  it,  until  it  parted.  By  this  time  it  had 
had  become  entirely  dark. 

At  4  o'cbck  the  watchman  reported  that  the  fog  had 
totally  disappeared  and  that  the  wind  had  considerably 
increased  and  that  the  sea  was  making  a  breach  across 
the  deck. 

This  unwelcome  news  very  much  alarmed  our  cap- 
tain, who  immediately  came  on  deck  and  on  observing 
the  indications  of  a  gathering  storm  which  threatened  us 
with  immediate  destruction,  called  all  hands  to  send 
down  the  topsail -halyards  and  drop  the  top-sail.  This 
was  done  to  prevent  the  main-mast  from  going  over- 
board, as  the  tops  were  now  our  only  places  of  refuge  in 
the  storm.  Having  firmly  secured  all  the  spars,  the 
captain  advised  the  men  to  provide  themselves  with  suf- 
ficient bread  and  water  in  the  lops  to  sustain  life  during 
the  trial  which  awaited  us. 

It  was  now  about  S  o'clock,  A.M.,  the  sun  had  risen 
and  shone  with  unusual  brightness  on  the  white  foaming 
billows,  which  surrounded  and  partly  covered  us  at  in- 
tervals. 

The  weather  being  now  perfectly  clear,  every  eye  on 
board  was  anxiously  engaged  in  observing  and  endeavor- 
ing to  discover  our  truly  deplorable  position  and  ascer- 
tain if  there  was  any  possible  means,  by  which,  we 
might  be  assisted  and  delivered  from  our  perilous  situ- 
ation. 

Our  captain  ascertained  that  we  were  cast  away  on 
the  south  of  the  St.  Nicholas,  on  a  dangerous  sand-bar, 
situated  three  leagues  from  the  land.  He  also  discover- 
ed two  vessels  which  were  wrecked  on  the  same  sand, 
two  miles  distant  from  us,  lying  on  their  sides.  On  the 
west,  and  innei  side  of  the  sands,  were  several  vessels 
lying  at  anchor  and  riding  hard.  From  them  we  could 
expect  no  assistance,  they  having  no  suitable  boats  to 
encounter  the  breakers  in  which  we  were  enveloped. 

It  was  now  mid-day  and  ebb-tide  ;  this  was  favorable 
to  us,  as  in  the  course  of  an  hour  we  were  very  much 
relieved  from  the  dashing  of  the  waves. 

The  gale  increased  and  the  clouds  became  dark  and 
loweiing,  which  bespoke  the  approaching  storm. 


OF   THOMAS    W.  SMITH,  33 

At  sun-set  the  captain  advised  us  to  take  some  nour- 
ishment and  prepare  ourselves  to  re-ascend  to  the  tops, 
the  only  remaining  place  of  refuge,  during  the  dark- 
ness of  the  night.  We  ascended  with  heavy  hearts  and 
having  gained  the  desired  spot,  each  individual  secured 
himself  with  a  rope,  to  prevent  his  falling.  I,  being 
young,  and  incapable  of  securing  myself,  was  secured  by 
one  of  the  sailors.  Being  comfortably  wrapped  up 
in  a  good  pea-jacket,  and  childlike,  regardless  of  the 
perilous  situation  in  which  we  were  placed,  I  enjoyed 
some  repose  during  the  gloomy  night. 

During  the  night  the  storm  continued  to  rage  with  un- 
abated fury. 

About  midnight,  the  roaring  gale  apparently  had  at- 
tained its  height.  The  elements  seemingly  had  united 
in  one  all  their  tremendous  powers  to  overwhelm  our 
little  bark,  which  seemed  doomed  to  utter  destruction. 
The  waves  were  now  making  tremendous  surges  over 
the  whole  of  the  vessel,  sweeping  away  with  unrestrain- 
ed fury  her  bulwarks  and  everything  on  her  decks 
of  a  movable  nature.' 

What  indeed,  could  have  been  our  thoughts  while  en- 
deavoring to  extend  our  eager  eyes  around  us,  as  far  as 
the  shades  of  night  would  permit  us  ?  What  could  we 
see  before  us  that  would  in  the  least  degree  have  any 
tendency  to  console  our  desponding  spirits  or  alleviate 
our  miserable  condition  ? 

We  could  see  the  white,  curling  waves  successively 
rolling  and  tremendously  beating  against  our  little  unfor- 
tunate bark,  with  unabated  fury,and  threatening  to  swallow 
us.  We  could  hear  the  roaring  and  howling  of  the  tem- 
pestuous gale,  whistling  swiftly  by  us  threatening  to  cast 
us  into  the  merciless  abyss  beneath.  There  was  no 
created  arm  to  appearance  that  could  possibly  have  sav- 
ed us  from  our  deplorable  and  forlorn  condition. 

Oh  ye  mothers  and  fathers,  wives  and  sisters,  often 
think  of  your  dear  suffering  kindred,  floating  on  a  track- 
less ocean,  whose  tender-hearted  affections  commingle 
with  yours.  Let  your  prayers  and  sympathies  go  with 
them. 

It  was  12  o'clock  at  night,  when  the  gale  had  attain- 
5 


34  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

ed  its  highest  degree  of  violence  ;  it  now  began  to 
lull.  At  4  o'clock  we  had  long  lulls  and  short  puffs, 
which  were  certain  indications  of  the  termination  of  the 
gale. 

Every  countenance  now  was  illuminated  with  the 
hope  of  relief,  and  every  heart  swelled  with  grati- 
tude for  our  miraculous  deliverance  from  a  premature, 
a  watery  grave. 

At  12  o'clock  the  elements  around  us  had  become 
perfectly  calm.  The  weather  was  now  favorable  and 
being  under  no  apprehension  of  being  swept  overboard 
by  the  waves,  we  descended  to  the  utvk  after  having 
been  confined  twelve  hours  in  the  top. 

On  examining  the  remains  of  our  bark  we  ascertain- 
ed that  she  was  a  total  loss,  her  bilge  and  stern  having 
been  knocked  in  by  the  beating  of  the  sea  ;  she  was  half 
lull  of  water  and  past  recovery. 

The  vessels  which  had  been  lying  at  anchor  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  sand,  had  by  this  time  got  under 
way  and  were  steering  towards  London,  being  favored 
with  a  light  breeze  from  the  southeast.  Our  captain 
now  made  a  signal  of  distress  in  order  to  acquaint  those 
vessels,  that  we  had  survived  the  severity  of  the  storm 
and  needed  their  assistance. 

On  seeing  the  signal  flying  at  our  mast-head,  the 
two  cod  smacks,  which  were  the  nearest  ,  immediately 
steered  towards  us.  It  was  some  time  before  they  could 
come  near  us,  in  consequence  of  the  lightness  of  the 
wind.  Some  time  after  the  sun  had  hid  his  refulgent  face 
beneath  the  western  horizon  the  vessels  arrived  within 
hail,  and  having  approached  us  they  immediately  sent 
their  boats  to  take  us  from'  the  wreck.  We  all  got  into 
the  boats  rejoicingly,  taking  with  us  the  few  remaining 
articles  of  wearing  apparel  which  we  had  managed  to 
save.  Having  got  on  board  of  the  smacks  with  safety, 
we  steered  towards  London,  it  being  the  port  to  which 
they  were  bound  with  their  cargoes  of  fish.  The  two 
vessels  sailed  in  company,  and  being  favored  with  a  fair 
wind,  arrived  and  cast  anchor  in  the  Lower  Hope,  two 
days  after  we  departed  from  the  wreck.  We  came  to 
anchor  at  high  water,  finding  it  impracticable  to  proceed 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  35 

any  farther  in  consequence  of  the  tide  and  lightness  of 
the  wind.  During  the  ebb-tide  there  were  several  out- 
ward bound  vessels,  which  had  floated  down  the  river 
with  the  stream  and  came  to  anchor  close  by  us.  On 
the  following  morning,  just  before  the  turn  of  tide,  we 
were  hailed  by  a  large  transport  brig,  which  was  very 
near  to  us,  in  the  following  manner  :  "  Smack,  ahoy  ! 
have  you  got  any  fish  to  sell  ?"  "  Yes,"  was  the  reply. 
Soon  she  sent  her  boat  and  the  captain  came  on  board 
to  purchase  some  fish.  While  in  the  act  of  buying, 
perceiving  that  there  were  more  men  on  board  than  the 
proper  complement  he  immediately  inquired  into  the 
cause  of  it.  Having  ascertained  that  we  were  a  vessel's 
crew  on  board,  who  had  been  wrecked,  and  he,  being 
short  of  hands,  inquired  of  our  captain  if  there  were  any 
of  them  who  would  like  to  ship  with  him  in  his  brig. 
Among  our  crew  he  found  two  men  who  willingly  ship- 
ped with  him  to  go  the  voyage.  Having  agreed  with 
these  men  he  inquired  of  our  captain  if  the  two  boys 
were  his  apprentices.  Our  captain's  reply  was.  that 
Willie  was  his  apprentice,  but  Tommy  was  not ;  and  ad- 
ded, if  you  want  a  cabin  boy,  you  had  better  take  him; 
giving  me  a  good  recommendation,  and  saying  to  him 
that  it  would  be  a  deed  of  charity  as  1  was  friendless. 
He  then  asked  me  if  I  was  willing  to  go  as  a  cabin  boy 
on  board  of  that  fine  looking  brig  ;  adding,  that  she  was 
going  to  Spain  and  would  perform  her  voyage  in  a  few 
months,  and  on  my  return  I  should  have  some  money 
which  would  enable  me  to  see  my  mother,  if  I  could 
find  her. 

Although  I  had  a  strong  desire  to  see  my  mother, 
yet  I  did  not  disapprove  of  the  proposal,  but  hesitated 
in  giving  an  answer,  not  knowing  what  to  do.  After 
some  persausion  he  succeeded  in  obtaining  my  consent, 
and  accordingly  I  went  with  him  on  board  his  fine  look- 
ing brig,  the  Paragon,  of  London. 


36  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Ships  on  board  the  Paragon  ;  sails  from  the  Downs  with  a  convoy: 
taken  prisoner  by  a  French  lugger  ;  efforts  to  escape  imprison- 
ment ;  recapture  of  the  vessel  and  our  liberation ;  arrival  at 
Spithead  ;  embarkation  of  the  troops  ;  departure  of  the  convoy  ; 
description  of  the  scene  •  ancient  tradition  of  the  moon  ;  arrival 
at  Portugal  and  disembarkation  of  the  troops ;  retreat  of  the 
French  army  out  of  Portugal ;  arrival  at  Cadiz,  and  disembark- 
ation of  the  troops  ;  arrival  at  Carthagena  and  disembarkation 
of  the  troops  ;  arrival  at  Alicant ;  junction  of  the  forces  ;  attack 
on  the  city  and  landing  of  the  army  ;  description  of  the  attack  ; 
capture  of  the  city  j  retreat  of  the  French  army,  pursued  by  the 
English;  return  of  the  army  to  the  city  ;  embarkation  of  the 
army;  departure  from.  Alicant  ;  arrival  of  the  army  in  the 
south  of  Spain  ;  landing  of  the  army  ;  defence  of  the  enemy;  at- 
tack on  the  French  redoubts  and  fortification  ;  dislodgement  of 
the  French  ;  evacuation  of  the  fort  and  retreat  of  the  French,  to 
the  plain  ;  general  engagement  on  the  plain  ;  the  French  are  re- 
pulsed and  retreat ;  embarkation  ol  the  army  ;  the  Paragon  leaves 
the  fleet  and  returns  to  Carthagena  ;  arrival  in  England  ;  the  au- 
thor is  induced  to  leave  the  ship  ;  enters  on  board  of  a  ship  of 
war. 

Having  got  on  board  of  the  brig,  I  was  taken  down  in- 
to the  cabin  and  instructed  in  the  duties  assigned  me  to 
perform  during  the  voyage. 

At  12  M.  it  being  about  the  turn  of  the  tide,  the 
pilot  commanded  to  loose  sails  and  heave  short.  Soon 
the  anchor  was  weighed  and  her  lofty  sails  were  spread 
to  the  pleasant  breeze,  which  speedily  conveyed  her 
through  the  waters  of  the  Queen's  Channel,  towards  the 
North-foreland  light.  The  wind  proving  unusually  fa- 
vorable, enabled  us  to  cast  anchor  in  the  Downs  at  11 
o'clock,  P.  M.  Here  we  continued  two  days,  waiting 
the  arrival  of  more  vessels  from  London,  which  on  their 
arrival  were  to  form  a  convoy  and  sail  for  Portsmouth, 
under  the  protection  of  a  sloop  of  war  and  brig.  The 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  37 

vessels  having  arrived,  and  the  tide  and  wind  proving 
favorable,  we  weighed  anchor  at  6  P.  3VI.  again  spread 
our  lolly  canvas  to  the  gentle  breeze.  Fifty  sail  of  ves- 
sels constituted  the  whole  of  the  convoy.  They  made 
a  grand  formidable  appearance.  We  sailed  close  to  the 
wind  until  we  arrived  opposite  to  Fair  Leigh,  where  the 
wind  headed  us  off  shore.  The  order  of  the  commo- 
dore indicated  his  intention  10  make  a  long  stretch  off 
shore,  in  order  to  enable  the  convoy  to  weather  Beachy- 
head  on  the  next  tack.  We  sailed  about  two  hours  in 
this  direction,  when  it  was  deemed  necessary,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  increased  violence  of  the  wind,  to  reef 
top-sails.  The  wind  still  continued  to  increase,  and 
again  we  were  under  the  necessity  of  roefing  and  taking 
in  sail. 

Our  vessel  could  not  keep  to  windward  with  the  rest 
of  the  convoy,  in  consequence  of  her  deficiency  of  bal- 
last. Being  three  miles  to  the  leeward  of  the  convoy 
and  dark,  it  was  with  great  difficulty  that  we  could  oc- 
casionally perc-.eive  the  lights  of  the  nearest  vessels.  We 
tacked  ship  in  order  to  get  in  the  track  of  the  convoy 
on  the  next  tack.  We  stood  in  for  the  land,  uncon- 
scious of  the  near  approach  of  our  ill  fate.  We  had  not 
been  above  an  hour  on  this  tack  when  we  perceived  a 
strange  sail  close  by  us,  crossing  our  bow.  The  officers 
immediately  brought  their  spy -glasses  to  bear  on  her  and 
announced  her  to  be  a  Frencli  lugger. 

The  vessel  now  became  a  scene  of  confusion  ;  the 
captain  and  mate  were  so  much  embarrassed  that  they 
did  not  know  what  course  to  pursue  for  the  safety  of 
the  vessel.  There  was  no  alternative  ;  no  possible  way 
of  escape  could  be  devised.  Some  were  of  the  opinion 
that  the  firing  ot  our  signal  gun  to  alarm  the  commodore 
would  probably  deter  her  from  taking  us,  as  she  would 
be  detected  by  the  commodore.  Others  were  of  the 
contrary  opinion,  and  imagined  that  this  would  ultimately 
prove  fatal  to  some  of  us,  as  it  would  only  serve  to  en- 
rage the  furious  Frenchmen,  who  would  undoubtedly  re- 
venge themselves  if  we  fell  into  their  hands.  This  was 
an  important  consideration,  and  as  such  it  was  appre- 
ciated. 


38  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

Our  captain,  was  determined  to  make  his  escape,  if 
it  were  possible.  Accordingly,  he  immediately  com- 
manded to  shake  out  all  the  reefs  and  loose  the  top-gal- 
lant-sails. The  sails  being  all  spread,  he  put  up  his 
helm,  and  steered  for  the  Downs,  being  resolved  to  give 
the  lugger  a  trial  for  the  superiority  in  sailing.  But  the 
Frenchmen  had  not  been  idle  during  the  time  that  we 
had  been  employed  in  making  sail.  They  had  been 
watching  all  our  movements,  and  having  discovered  our 
intentions,  she  immediately  wore  ship,  made  all  possible 
sail  and  steered  for  us.  We  soon  perceived  that  the 
lugger  was  in  pursuit  of  us,  and  undoubtedly  had  mark- 
ed us  for  her  night's  prey  ;  yet,  notwithstanding  the  dis- 
couraging position  in  which  we  were  placed,  there  still 
remained  a  universal  hope  and  persevering  spirit  among 
the  crew.  But  this  hope  was  only  momentary,  as  it 
gradually  banished  as  the  lugger  approached  nearer 
and  nearer  to  us.  The  enemy,  having  approached  us 
on  our  weather  quarter,  hailed  us  in  English  and  com- 
manded us  to  heave  to,  with  our  head  to  the  westward, 
and  that  without  delay.  Our  captain,  knowing  that  dis- 
obedience to  the  command  given,  might  be  attended  by 
the  sacrifice  of  some  of  our  lives,  immediately  took  in 
sail  and  and  hove  to,  and  waited  for  the  lugger  to  board 
us.  The  lugger  soon  came  to,  under  our  lee  quarter, 
and  we  were  boarded  by  twenty  Frenchmen,  sword  in 
hand.  They  commanded  us  to  go  below,  where  we 
were  barred  down  and  kept  secured.  Having  done  this, 
they  made  sail  on  the  vessel  and  steered  before  the 
wind  towards  the  coast  of  France. 

During  our  confinement  our  agitated  minds  became 
seriously  concerned  for  our  future  destiny.  Some  deep- 
ly lamented  the  long  anticipated  separation  from  home 
and  friends,  which  would  unavoidably  take  place  in  con- 
sequence of  our  expected  long,  tedious  confinement  in  a 
French  prison.  Others  thought  more  of  privations  and 
the  sufferings  which  their  destitute  families  would  have 
to  endure,  during  their  imprisonment. 

We  were  prisoners  of  war,  and  probably  doomed  for 
a  long  time  to  suffer  the  privations  of  a  loathsome  prison, 
deprived  of  the  comforts  of  life,  of  our  personal  liberties, 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  39 

and  all  that  on  earth  to  us  was  dear.  Placed  in  such 
trying  circumstances  as  these,  life,  though  sweet  in  itself, 
now  become  a  painful  burden.  But  kind  fortune  had 
unrevealed  and  unmerited  favors  reserved  for  us  in 
store.  The  vessel  continued  her  course  during  the 
night,  and  early  in  the  morning  arrived  off  the  mouth  of 
the  bay  of  Bologne.  The  Frenchman  had  intended 
to  sail  into  the  harbor  before  the  break  of  day,  if 
possible,  to  escape  the  English  cruisers,  if  there  were 
any  cruising  or  lying  at  anchor,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
harbor.  But  in  consequence  of  the  darkness  of  the 
night  they  necessarily  had  been  compelled  to  shorten 
sail,  and  the  fury  of  the  wind,  having  abated  towards 
morning,  they  were  thus  frustrated  in  their  designs  and 
daybreak  overtook  them  on  the  ocean  ;  and  thus  they 
were  exposed  to  the  English  cruisers.  It  was  fortu- 
nate for  us  that  it  so  happened,  for  had  the  night  been 
clear  and  the  wind  continued,  the  vessel  would  have 
arrived  in  the  harbor  before* morning  in  safety,  and  we 
must  have  gone  to  suffer  indescribable  miseries  in  a 
French  prison  ;  but  it  was  otherwise  ordained.  The  day 
was  breaking  when  the  vessel  commenced  entering  the 
harbor  of  Bologne;  and  not  having  as  yet  discovered  any 
of  the  English  cruisers,  the  Frenchmen  were  in  great  hi- 
larity, thinking  themselves  in  perfect  safety  with  their 
prize. 

But  the  scene  was  soon  changed  ;  those  who  were 
now  rejoicing  and  quaffing  deeply  of  the  cup  of  prosper- 
ity, were  soon  brought  to  mourn  and  drink  as  deeply 
of  the  bitter  cup  of  adversity. 

Soon  the  noise  ceased  on  deck,  and  in  a  few  minutes 
subsequent,  we  heard  articulating  in  French,  '  A  brig  of 
war!  a  brig  of  war!'  (  He  is  an  Englishman/  reported 
another  voice.  '  Sacra  la  Anglois  /'  resounded  eveiy 
voice,  all  over  the  decks.  In  fifteen  minutes  more  wre 
heard  the  report  of  a  great  gun  ;  this  circumstance  con- 
nected with  the  preceding  report,  raised  our  dejected 
spirits  and  led  us  strongly  to  believe  that  our  redemp- 
tion was  nigh.  Soon  after  we  heard  the  sound  of  the 
speaking  trumpet  and  immediately  after  was  heard  the 
shrill  sound  of  the  boatswain's  pipe.  These  were  fol- 


40  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

lowed  by  the  roll  of  the  drum  and  a  great  concussion  on 
our  lee-quarter,  which  shook  the  vessel  fore  and  aft. 
This  was  succeeded  by  a  great  noise  on  deck,  like  the 
jumping  and  running  of  men.  English  voices,  com- 
manding, were  now  distinctly  heard,  ordering  the  dis- 
mayed Frenchmen  to  the  quarter  deck. 

They  made  no  resistance  when  boarded  by  the  first 
class  of  boarders,  from  his  British  majesty's  brig  of  war, 
but  quietly  submitted  to  their  fate.  Having  obtained 
possession  of  the  vessel,  the  English  commanding  offic- 
er immediately  ordered  the  French  crew  to  be  confined, 
and  to  liberate  the  English  prisoners.  Thus  in  a  few 
minutes  the  scene  was  greatly  changed.  They  were 
confined  and  we  were  liberated  ;  freed  from  confine- 
ment and  from  our  anticipated  miserable  condition. 
This  unexpected  deliverance  was  hailed  by  us  with  great 
joy.  Our  hearts,  which  had  previously  been  made  sad 
by  adversity,  now  swelled  with  gratitude.  But  in  the 
midst  of  our  joy  we  could  not  help  reflecting  on  the  sud- 
den change  which  fortune  sometimes  makes. 

The  prisoners  being  now  secured  under  hatches,  both 
vessels  made  sail  for  the  anchorage,  where  we  soon  arriv- 
ed in  safety.  While  lying  here,  the  prisoners  were  re- 
moved to  a  sloop  of  war,  and  our  captain  again  was  put 
in  full  possession  and  command  of  his  vessel.  The 
wind  being  now  unfavorable,  we  were  under  the  neces- 
sity of  waiting  for  a  favorable  change.  This  having 
been  accomplished,  we  weighed  anchor  and  with  light 
hearts  and  a  jovial  song  made  sail  and  steered  for  Ports- 
mouth in  company  with  the  sloop  of  war,  which  escort- 
ted  us  as  far  as  Beachy-head  and  then  returned  to  her 
station.  We  arrived  at  Spithead  three  days  after  our 
departure  from  the  Bay  of  Bologne.  Having  come  to 
an  anchor  among  the  shipping,  the  commodore  and  trans- 
port agent  and  ship-masters  came  on  board  to  receive 
information  relative  to  our  mysterious  disappearance 
from  the  con  vox. 

At  Spithead  we  waited  a  week  for  the  arrival  of  the 
troops  from  the  different  sections  of  the  country,  to 
embark  for  Lisbon,  in  Portugal,  as  a  reinforcement  to 
the  remains  of  Sir  John  Moore's  army,  which  was  then 
commanded  by  Lord  Wellington. 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  41 

During  this  time  we  were  employed  in  taking  in  all 
kinds  of  provisions  and  warlike  stores. 

At  length  the  troops  arrived,  and  were  embarked  for 
Portugal  to  reinforce  Lord  Wellington's  army,  which 
was  then  occupying  an  important  position  to  cover  the 
city  of  Lisbon  from  the  invasion  of  the  French  army, 
then  commanded  by  the  distingushed  Massena.  It  was 
early  in  the  morning  when  the  admiral's  ship  fired  a 
gun,  loosed  her  fore-top-sail  and  unfolded  his  blue  Peter 
on  the  fore  sky-sail  mast,  which  is  a  signal  for  sea,  and 
for  weighing  anchor.  Every  vessel  belonging  to  the  con- 
voy immediately  obeyed  the  signal.  This  is  a  strict 
rule  to  be  observed  by  the  commanders  of  every  ves- 
sel in  the  convoy  without  deviation.  In  the  first 
place,  before  the  convoy  leaves  the  port,  the  admiral 
or  commodore  makes  a  well-known  signal  for  the  mas- 
ters of  all  the  transports  to  come  on  board  of  his  ship  to 
receive  their  instructions  and  signals,  by  which  they  may 
know  from  the  commodore  how  to  steer,  make  or  short- 
en sail  in  their  passage  to  the  port  of  destination.  By 
these  means  convoys  are  guided  and  protected  across 
the  ocean.  As  the  signals  were  promptly  obeyed,  soon 
every  vessel  spread  her  wings  to  the  favorable  breeze. 
Being  young  and  unaccustomed  to  seeing  such  a  vast 
number  of  ships,  I  was  very  much  surprised,  and  view- 
ed the  interesting  scene  with  great  admiration  ;  it  seemed 
like  a  city  on  the  ocean,  its  lofty  spires  pointing  to  the 
skies. 

We  sailed  for  Lisbon,  the  capital  of  Portugal,  with  a 
convoy  of  60  or  70  sail  of  transports  and  ships  of  war. 
In  company  with  us  sailed  three  other  convoys,  which 
together  swelled  the  number  to  500  sail.  Those  con- 
voys were  destined  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  West 
Indies,  Mediterranean,  &tc.  It  will  be  borne  in  mind 
that  these  convoys  were  made  up  of  merchant  vessels, 
which  were  carrying  their  merchandize  to  their  respec- 
tive places  of  trade. 

We  sailed  by  the  beautiful  Isle  of  Wight,  steered 
our  course  down  the  channel,  and  at  mid-day  arrived  off 
the  White-cliffs  near  Berry-head.  A  few  hours  after- 
wards we  arrived  near  the  Eddy  stone  light-house.  This 
6 


42  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

is  built  on  a  small  rock  situated  nine  miles  from  Ram's 
head,  which  is  the  West  pointof  the  mouth  of  Plymouth 
Bay.  This  sea-monument  is  one  of  nature's  curiosi- 
ties. The  rock  on  which  the  light-house  is  built,  is 
sufficiently  large  to  form  its  foundation  which  is  secur- 
ed with  iron  fastenings.  This  mode  of  securing  the 
foundation  was  adopted  when  the  present  light-house 
was  erected,  in  consequence  of  the  former  one  having 
been  washed  away  in  a  gale  of  wind. 

The  light-house  keeper  has  a  perilous,  and  unenviable 
situation,  as  during  the  existence  of  a  gale,  the  sea  fre- 
quently rises  over  the  rock,  and  the  spray  often  rises  to 
the  lantern.  We  viewed  the  delightful  prospects 
which  the  different  hillocks  presented  to  our  view  from 
the  different  sections  of  the  Albion  coast,  as  we  swiftly 
passed  by  it.  At  length  the  sun  descended  beneath  the 
bosom  of  the  western  ocean  and  the  night  enveloped  us 
in  her  dark  mantle,  which  banished  from  our  vision  the 
interesting  remains  of  our  highly  favored  isle. 

Having  performed  the  duties  of  the  day  cheerfully,  I 
retired  to  repose  my  wearied  frame.  My  bed  consisted 
of  a  hammock,  which  was  suspended  beneath  the  deck 
by  a  number  of  small  lines,  which  left  it  in  a  swinging 
position  ;  in  it  was  a  hair  matress,  accompanied  by  a 
double  blanket.  1  laid  down  i  nd  endeavored  to  sleep 
in  my  new  fashioned  bed,  but  it  was  in  vain  ;  no  sleep 
to  my  eyes  ;  no  rest  to  my  wearied  limbs.  This  dis- 
turbed state  proceeded  from  being  unaccustomed  to  the 
creaking  noise  of  the  bulk-heads  and  swinging,  rolling 
and  pitching  of  the  vessel,  which  kept  every  thing  in 
constant  motion.  Happy  was  I  when  I  beheld  a  ray  of 
morning  light.  Notwithstanding  the  sleepless  and  rest- 
less night  which  1  passed,  and  the  qualmishness  that  I 
then  felt,  1  jumped  out  of  my  swinging  hammock  in  or- 
der to  go  on  deck  ;  but  as  soon  as  my  feet  touched,  1 
was  rolled  away  with  the  roll  of  the  ship  to  the  lee-side, 
then  backward  and  forward  several  times  in  succession 
before  I  could  assist  myself  in  the  least.  At  last  after 
being  considerably  bruised,  by  chance,  I  took  hold  of  a 
supporter,  by  which  means  I  regained  my  standing  po- 
sition. I  then  became  more  cautious  of  the  movements 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  43 

of  the  vessel  and  succeeded  once  more  in  regaining  the 
upper  deck.  We  sailed  towards  the  port  of  destination 
without  experiencing  the  least  molestation.  Finally,  we 
arrived  in  the  port  of  our  destination  and  came  to  an- 
chor below  Baluin  Castle  and  immediately  proceeded  to 
disembark  the  troops.  This  task  was  accomplished  the 
same  day  of  our  arrival.  The  troops  made  preparations 
to  march  on  the  following  day.  That  evening,  nevts 
was  received  from  the  army  by  the  commanding  officer, 
that  Massena,  after  failing  in  his  endeavors  to  draw  lord 
Wellington  from  his  position,  was  precipitately  march- 
ing out  of  Portugal  and  his  lordship's  army  was  following 
in  his  rear,  harassing  and  successfully  dislodging  his  troops 
wherever  they  attempted  to  form,  to  cover  their  retreat. 
This  gratifying  and  welcome  news  was  universally 
hailed  as  the  redemption  of  Portugal  from  the  usurping 
power  of  Bonaparte,  and  was  celebrated  by  a  magnifi- 
cent illumination  throughout  the  country. 

The  troops  having  rested  from  the  fatigue  of  the  voy- 
age and  recovered  from  their  sea-sickness,  part  of  them 
took  up  the  line  of  march  to  unite  with  the  army.  The 
remainder  were  re-embarked  lor  Cadiz,  to  reinforce 
General  Graham,  who  commanded  that  important  gar- 
rison, and  defended  it  from  the  desperate  assaults  of  the 
French  army,  and  who  after  that  sallied  out  and  obtain- 
ed a  victory  over  them  upon  the  highis  of  Barossa  in 
connection  with  the  Spanish  General  Lapena. 

The  troops  being  re-embarked,  the  commander's 
ship  fired  a  gun,  hoisted  the  Blue  Peter,  and  our  gal- 
lant fleet  was  again  in  motion.  We  sailed  for  Cadiz, 
and  in  a  few  days  arrived  there  and  cast  anchor  in  safe- 
ty. Here  we  disembarked  some  hundred  troops  as  a 
reinforcement  for  the  garrison  of  that  important  city. 

On  the  day  after  our  arrival,  we  received  orders,  to 
proceed,  with  the  remainder  of  the  troops  to  Carthage- 
na,  to  reinforce  the  Spanish  troops  and  take  posses- 
sion of  the  castle  of  Tallalla,  which  is  situated  on  a 
high,  commanding  eminence,  on  the  side  of  the  city  as 
you  go  into  its  harbor. 

We  again  weighed  anchor  and  proceeded  on  our 
age  through  the  gut  of  Gibraltar,  and  soon  passed 


44  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

great  and  impregnable  fortress,  which  is  considered  by 
well-informed  men,  the  key  and  bulwarks  of  the  straits. 
We  still  continued  on  our  passage,  and  in  six  days  ar- 
rived safely  and  cast  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Carthage- 
na,  and  immediately  proceeded  to  disembark  the  troops. 
Having  landed  our  troops,  the  fleet  immediately  made 
sail  for  the  port  of  Alicant,  where  we  were  to  meet  the 
main  army,  then  waiting  our  arrival,  in  order  to 
unite  for  the  attack  on  the  French.  On  the  following 
day  we  arrived  in  the  bay  of  Alicant,  and  there  met  the 
main  body  of  the  army,  waiting  our  arrival. 

All  necessary  preparations  being  previously  made, 
the  army,  consisting  of  10,000  men,  proceeded  to 
disembark  in  the  face  of  the  enemy's  intrenched  lines 
and  strong  batteries  under  cover  of  the  gun-boats  and 
such  of  the  small  vessels  of  war  as  the  shoal  water  would 
safely  admit.  To  my  young  and  inexperienced  mind 
the  scene  was  truly  majestic  and  terrible.  The  line  o  f 
gun-boats,  bomb-ships,  and  other  smaller  vessels  of  war, 
arranged  in  the  line  of  battle,  under  the  muzzles  of  the 
enemy's  guns,  exhibited  a  stern  resolution  in  our  officers 
and  men  to  conquer  or  die  in  the  attempt. 

It  seemed  to  me  to  be  truly  grand,  and  I  already  im- 
agined the  battle  won.  Add  to  this,  60  or  70  flat-bot- 
tomed boats,  each  carrying  a  long  gun  and  60  armed 
men.  In  addition  to  this,  the  transport-boats  engaged  in 
towing  these  large  boats  full  of  troops  to  the  several 
suitable  positions  for  landing  ;  and  100  or  more  boats 
from  the  several  ships  of  war  landing  the  marines  and 
sailors,  with,  their  suitable  implements  to  scale  the  walls 
of  the  enemy's  batteries.  In  the  midst  of  these  active 
operations,  the  roaring  of  the  cannon,  which  shook  the 
very  earth  ;  also  the  dense  columns  of  smoke,  which 
reached  the  heavens,  conveyed  the  tidings  that  a  great, 
a  destructive  conflict  was  going  on.  Next  the  respect- 
ive showers  of  musket  balls  from  the  enemy's  trenches 
which  fell  in  and  around  our  landing  boats,  and  which 
deprived  many  of  life,  taking  their  souls  into  the  world 
of  spirits. 

The  continual  showers  of  cannon-shot,  and  bullets  of 
the  enemy's  guns,  skipping  on  the  surface  of  the  deep, 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  45 

cutting  men  and  boats  asunder  and  dismounting  guns  and 
sinking  gun-boats  at  their  will,  added  to  the  terrific 
grandeur  of  the  scene. 

In  the  midst  of  this  vehement  fire  the  troops  landed, 
formed  and  marched  with  a  firm  step,  forced  the  trench- 
es at  the  point  of  the  bayonet,  stormed  the  redoubts 
and  turned  the  guns  towards  the  main  fortification.  Soon 
they  succeeded  in  forcing  the  main  batteries  and  obliged 
the  gallant  Frenchmen  to  retreat  precipitately,  leaving 
the  dead  and  wounded  and  a  great  part  of  their  stores  in 
possession  of  the  victors. 

Thus  ended  this  bloody  and  contested  struggle  between 
the  contending  armies  of  two  of  the  greatest  powers  in 
Europe. 

This  victory  was  not  decisive  of  the  liberation  of  the 
province  from  the  encroaching  and  usurping  power  of  the 
French.  Though  they  had  been  vanquished  and  routed 
from  this  important  city  in  less  than  four  hours,  and  a 
great  victory  and  a  city  had  been  gained  ;  yet  there  re- 
mained much  to  do  to  exterminate  them  from  the  prov- 
ince, as  they  still  held  the  greatest  part  in  their  posses- 
sion. 

The  French  were  closely  pursued  for  several  days  in 
succession  along  the  coast,  during  which  time  the  com- 
manding officer  spared  no  pains  nor  military  skill  in  his 
efforts  to  draw  the  French  general  into  battle,  but  all  in 
vain. 

The  shrewd  Frenchman  was  something  like  the  child 
who  had  been  stung  by  the  bee.  He  felt  no  disposition 
to  approach  the  hive  again.  The  French  now  being  in 
full  retreat  to  concentrate  the  provincial  forces,  and  the 
English  general  failing  in  all  his  endeavors  to  bring  him 
to  battle,  came  to  the  conclusion  to  halt,  countermarch 
and  re-embark  his  troops  and  proceed  along  the  coast 
and  dislodge  them  at  Rosas, where  they  had  a  strong  hold. 
The  army  centered  at  Alicant  after  an  absence  of  ten 
days  amidst  the  acclamations  of  the  citizens,  who  took 
them  by  the  hand  on  every  side  as  they  inarched  through 
the  city,  and  expressed  gratitude  for  their  deliverance. 
The  army  approached  the  sea  shore  and  the  embarka- 
tion took  place.  In  a  few  hours  they  were  on  board, 


46  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

and  the  ships  were  ready  for  sea  again,  but  in  conse- 
quence of  adverse  winds  we  were  under  the  necessity  of 
remaining  inactive  in  the  port  for  several  days. 

This  short  respite  was  considered  in  some  degree 
favorable  to  the  troops,  as  it  enabled  them  to  repair  dam- 
ages and  rest  from  the  fatigues  produced  by  the  recent 
battle  and  forced  marches. 

The  ocean  breeze  in  a  few  days  proving  favorable, 
our  admiral  ship  fired  a  gun  and  displayed  the  blue  Pe- 
ter. We  steered  our  course  for  the  south  of  Spain,  and 
in  a  few  days  arrived  and  came  to  an  anchor  in  safety, 
opposite  the  French  fort,  which  was  seven  miles  dis- 
tance from  us.  This  was  a  very  unfavorable  position 
which  the  ships  unavoidably  had  taken,  in  consequence 
of  rhe  shallowness  of  the  water ;  and  it  was  one,  which 
at  the  time,  was  deeply  regretted,  as  it  deprived  them 
of  rendering  the  necessary  co-operation  to  the  troops  in 
covering  their  landing  in  the  approaching  encounter. 

The  night  subsequent  to  our  arrival  a  Spanish  boat 
came  off  under  cover  of  the  night,  which  brought  im- 
portant information  to  our  commander.  Having  ascer- 
tained the  position  and  strength  of  the  enemy's  forces, 
and  having  previously  made  all  necessary  preparations 
for  the  disembarkation,  we  proceeded  on  the  following; 
day  to  land  the  appointed  forces,  which  numbered  4000 
men,  in  the  very  face  of  the  enemy,  who  were  advan- 
tageously posted  along  the  top  of  the  small  sand-hills  on 
either  side  of  the  fort. 

It  would  be  utterly  impossible  for  rr:e  to  describe  the 
scene  correctly  or  to  do  justice  to  the  subject,  being  pla- 
ced at  such  a  distance  from  the  scene  of  action  ;  but 
according  to  my  knowledge, and  that  which  1  derived  from 
those  who  partoek  of  the  honors  of  that  day,  I  will  en- 
deavor to  give  an  impartial  representation  of  the  battle. 

I  had  conceived  that  the  recent  battle,  which  had  ta- 
ken place  in  Alicant  was  truly  majestic  and  sublime  ; 
but  in  my  opinion,  this  by  far,  surpassed  it  in  bravery  on 
the  part  of  our  troops,  considering  the  many  disadvanta- 
ges under  which  they  labored.  In  the  first  place,  the 
shallowness  of  the  water  prevented  the  ships  from  cov- 
ering the  landing  troops  from  the  enemy's  destructive 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  47 

fire  to  which  they  were  long  exposed.  In  the  second 
place  they  were  under  the  necessity  of  forming  their 
ranks  whilst  up  to  their  waists  in  the  water,  and  marching 
in  this  manner  for  a  long  distance  towards  the  enemy, 
who  being  comfortably  situated,  was  constantly  pouring 
a  deadly  fire  upon  them.  In  the  third  place,  after  gain- 
ing the  dry  land,  they  had  to  march  up  the  sand  hills  at 
the  mouth  of  the  cannon  to  dislodge  the  enemy  from 
their  strong  and  advantageous  position,  at  the  point  of  the 
bayonet. 

These  obstacles  could  not  have  been  surmounted  by 
any  ordinary  mode  of  warfare.  Nothing  short  of  an  un- 
wearied, unyielding  and  persevering  spirit  of  intrepidity, 
could  have  successfully  surmounted  the  difficulties  here 
delineated. 

They  dislodged  the  enemy  from  iheir  strong  position, 
who  commenced  a  retreat  under  the  protection  of  the 
fort,  towards  the  plain  and  in  its  rear.  By  this  time 
a  party  of  sailors,  who  had  been  sedulously  engaged  in 
getting  a  long  gun  on  the  top  of  a  commanding  hill,  had 
actually  succeeded  in  their  difficult  enterprise  and  had 
now  commenced  an  effectual  and  destructive  fire,  which 
conveyed  dismay  into  the  fortress  and  threatened  its  im- 
mediate dissolution.  This  gun  was  kept  constantly  em- 
ployed ;  every  shot  was  effectual  and  did  some  execu- 
tion. So  severe  and  destructive  was  its  fire,  that  in  less 
than  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  the  enemy  found  them- 
selves under  the  necessity  of  evacuating  the  fort,  as  it 
had  become  a  very  uncomfortable  residence. 

The  French  having  been  compelled  to  leave  the  fort, 
now  slowly  retreated  towards  the  plain,  intentionally 
drawing  our  forces  from  the  sand  hills  that  they  might 
effectually  charge  them  in  the  rear  with  their  cavalry. 
The  French  having  got  to  a  suitable  distance,  halted, 
formed  in  line  of  battle  and  opened  a  brisk  fire,  which 
was  immediately  returned  with  equal  success. 

After  the  firing  had  continued  for  some  time,  during 
which  many  fell  on  both  sides,  the  French  made  a  des- 
perate and  united  effort,  horse  and  foot,  to  charge  the 
English  wings.  Their  right  wing  which  was  composed 
of  infantry,  supported  by  a  squadron  of  horse,  charged 


48  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

the  English  left  wing,  which  rested  at  the  base  of  a  small 
sand  hill.  Their  left  wing,  with  a  full  battalion  and  six 
or  seven  hundred  horse,  charged  the  English  right,  with 
full  confidence  of  turning  the  wing  to  attack  the  rear, 
and  thus  drive  them  towards  their  centre,  which  was 
ready  to  receive  them.  The  English  being  well  formed 
calmly  received  the  expected  onset  with  a  bent  knee, 
vigorously  repelling  them  on  the  left  wing.  On  the  right, 
the  heavy  battalion  and  700  horses,  made  several  at* 
tempts  to  drive  the  wing  into  the  rear  but  without  effect. 
The  English  wing  being  firmly  formed  to  prevent  its 
being  turned,  and  a  resolute  spirit  of  resistance  existing 
among  the  troops,  all  the  efforts  of  the  enemy  to  break 
the  line  proved  unavailing.  The  French  made  one 
more  desperate  attempt  to  force  the  English  wing. 
The  foot,  in  front  of  the  horse,  attempted  to  get  into 
the  rear.  In  doing  this,  a  body  of  500  from  the  reserve 
unexpectedly  came  upon  them,  from  behind  the  sand 
hills,  which  they  had  to  pass  in  order  to  get  to  our  rear, 
which  threw  them  into  confusion  and  disorder;  and  not 
being  able  to  advance  to  support  the  charge  of  their  in- 
fantry, they  retreated  with  great  loss  and  disorder.  At 
the  same  time  that  the  cavalry  was  repelled,  their  infan- 
try was  also  repulsed.  At  this  time  the  whole  of  the 
English  lines  advanced  to  the  charge,  which  the  French 
avoided  by  a  precipitate  retreat. 

The  French  now  being  in  full  retreat  were  pursued 
but  a  short  distance,  having  no  cavalry  to  assist  and  re- 
pel the  French  cavalry  in  their  desperate  onsets,  had 
they  deemed  it  proper  to  have  made  another  stand. 

Having  endured  the  excessive  fatigue  of  a  severe 
fought  battle,  we  again  embarked  our  troops  to  proceed 
along  the  coast  and  dislodge  the  enemy  from  every  foot- 
hold. 

Our  captain  and  several  others  while  lying  at  Alicant 
had  received  orders  from  the  transport  agent,  to  make 
preparations  to  discharge  the  remaining  government 
stores  on  our  arrival  at  Rosas,  as  it  was  expedient  for 
the  vessels  to  return  home,  by  expiration  of  the  time 
for  which  they  were  employed  by  the  government. — 
On  our  arrival  at  Rosas,  the  troops  which  were  on  board 


OF    THOMAS     W.    SMITH.  49 

of  -our  vessel,  were  immediately  conveyed  on  board  of 
the  other  transports  and  all  the  government  stores. 

Having  embarked  all  the  troops  and  the  wind  proving 
favorable,  the  fleet  again  set  sail  and  steered  along  the 
coast.  The  vessels  which  were  homeward  bound  were 
7  in  number,  including  the  sloop  of  war,  which  was  to 
convoy  us  home.  These  sailed  for  Carthagena,  where 
we  were  to  load  with  spars  for  Portsmouth,  England. 

At  Carthagena  the  vessels  went  into  the  arsenal  ba- 
sin, where  we  took  in  our  cargo,  and  at  the  expiration 
of  four  weeks  we  joyfully  made  sail  for  the  land  of  our 
birth,  at  which  we  arrived  in  seven  weeks. 

On  our  arrival  at  Portsmouth  we  received  orders  from 
the  navy  commissioners  to  enter  the  harbor  and  discharge 
our  cargo  at  the  navy  yard. 

Having  fulfilled  all  our  orders,  according  to  the  wishes 
of  the  commissioners,  the  ship's  crew  was  immediately 
discharged  and  the  vessel  was  laid  up  until  the  captain 
should  find  employment  for  her. 

I,  being  young  and  homeless,  was  permitted  by  the 
captain  to  remain  on  board  of  the  vessel,  as  he  had  an- 
ticipated taking  me  as  an  apprentice  to  the  ship.  For 
my  past  services  the  captain  rewarded  me  with  a  good 
suit  of  blue  sailor's  clothes  and  others  of  inferior  quality, 
and  55.  for  pocket  money.  This  compensation  was  more 
than  adequate  to  my  just  demands.  During  the  voyage 
I  had  the  good  fortune  to  receive  the  kindest  of  treat- 
ment from  the  captain  arid  his  amiable  lady. 

While  in  Portsmouth  I  became  acquainted  with  a 
a  number  of  boys  who  belonged  to  a  large  king's  ship, 
near  to  us  and  which  was  nearly  ready  for  sea.  She 
was  a  ship  of  2,000  tons,  drawing  24  feet  of  water,  hav- 
ing four  decks,  three  of  which  were  above  water,  on  two 
of  which  she  mounted  24  guns  of  32  Ibs.  caliber.  Her 
complement  of  men  was  120.  She  was  one  of  the  gov- 
ernment ships,  employed  in  conveying  stores  of  all  des- 
criptions to  the  army  and  navy  in  all  parts  of  the  world. 
She  was  not  a  regular  fighting  ship,  but  was  sufficiently 
armed  to  fight  her  own  way  and  to  protect  such  convoys 
as  might  be  intrusted  to  her  protection.  She  was  H. 
B.  M.  ship  Hindostan,  built  in  India,  and  at  this  time 


50  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

was  commanded  by  captain  Dunken  Ware,  one  of  the 
twelve  masters.  Whether  this  means  the  twelve  oldest 
masters  in  the  navy  or  the  twelve  trinity  masters  I  arn 
not  able  to  decide.  Be  it  as  it  may,  they  were  intrusted 
by  the  admiral  each  with  the  command  of  one  of  these 
store  ships,  which  in  discipline  did  not  in  the  least  de- 
gree deviate  from  that  of  a  regular  ship  of  war.  By 
these  boys  I  was  frequently  invited  on  board.  These 
invitations  were  readily  accepted  and  we  often  enjoyed 
our  mutual  visits.  When  I  first  visited  this  store-ship  1 
was  struck  with  surprise  at  the  immense  size  of  this  floa- 
ting monster  of  the  sea.  1  admired  the  great  guns  and 
shot-lockers  round  the  hatchway,  and  the  neatness  of 
the  ship  in  every  respect,  and  especially  the  birth-deck 
and  mess-tables  which  were  as  white  as  they  possibly 
could  be.  The  shelves  on  which  the  crockery  was  pla- 
ced forsecurity  were  painted  very  nice  and  tasty;  in  a  word 
every  thing  appesred  neat  and  grand.  I  was  more  than 
gratified  with  the  neatness  of  the  sailors'  uniforms  the  first 
sabbath  that  I  witnessed  them  ^answering  their  master. 
They  were  dressed  in  white  trowsers,  blue  jackets  and 
leather  hats,  on  which  the  ship's  name  was  beautifully 
inscribed  in  gilt  letters. 

My  mind  now  became  ravished  with  these  allurements, 
and  I  became  a  frequent  visitor  on  board.  The  fre- 
quencies of  which  created  an  ardent  desire  in  me  to 
embark  on  board  and  traverse  the  ocean  in  this  great, 
floating  bulwark  of  Old  England.  My  mind  proved 
unstable  for  some  time  on  this  point,  but  finally  1  came 
to  the  conclusion  to  sail  in  her  if  possible.  Having  as- 
certained that  the  ship  stood  in  need  of  four  or  five  boys, 
I  made  immediate  application  to  the  second  master  for 
a  situation  on  board,  who,  having  satisfactorily  interroga- 
ted me,  gave  me  an  assurance  of  a  birth.  I  remained 
on  board  of  the  brig  until  this  great  ship  was  ready 
for  sea.  This  I  did  to  prevent  a  premature  disclosure 
of  my  plan  to  Captain  Brown,  whose  interference  would 
probably  have  frustrated  my  designs,  though  he  had  no 
right  to  do  so,  as  I  was  not  an  apprentice  to  the  vessel. 
Four  or  five  days  having  elapsed  I  ascertained  that  the 
ship  was  ready  for  sea  and  that  she  would  leave  the  jettjr 


OF    THOMAS    W.     SMITH.  51 

on  the  next  high  water.  According  to  this  information 
I  readily  perceived  that  the  time  of  my  departure  drew 
nigh  and  that  it  was  necessary  that  I  should  be  on  board 
in  season.  It  was  now  high  water  and  apparently  there 
was  a  great  bustle  in  getting  the  ship  off  from  the  jetty. 
It  was  then  that  1  embraced  the  opportunity.  I  ming- 
led with  the  boys  and  stepped  on  board  unobserved. 

In  a  short  time  the  ship  was  under  sail  steering  out  of 
the  harbor  with  a  favorable  breeze,  which  is  indispensa- 
ble in  consequence  of  the  narrowness  of  the  harbor's 
mouth.  In  about  one  hour  and  a  half  the  ship  came 
to  an  anchor  at  Spithead,  where  she  laid  a  week,  taking 
in  her  water  and  provision. 


52  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 


CHAPTER  V. 

Sails  in  H.  B.  S.  Hindostan  ;  arrives  at  Gibraltar ;  from  thence  to 
Carthagena ;  visits  the  English  soldiers  and  fortifications  ;  ar- 
rives at  Mahon  and  meets  part  of  Sir  Edward  Pillow's  fleet 
there  ;  description  of  a  sailor's  trial  and  horrible  punishment ; 
arrives  at  Carthagena;  gain's  knowledge  of  the  city;  descrip- 
tion of  the  city  and  its  fortifications  ;  public  execution  of  three 
English  deserters  ;  description  of  the  Spanish  Gipsys  ;  departure 
from  Carthagena ;  meets  the  Victory  74  with  her  prize  of  90 ; 
description  of  the  battle  ;  arrival  at  Gibraltar  ;  attack  of  the 
French  on  Tariffa,  Algesiras  and  St.  Roche  ;  description  of  the 
rock  of  Gibraltar,  its  fortifications  and  the  town  ;  description  of 
St.  Michael's  cavern  ;  arrival  on  the  summit  of  the  mount ;  the 
Moorish  Castle  ;  arrival  at  Cadiz  ;  description  of  the  Carraques  : 
departure  from  Cadiz ;  short  allowance  of  water;  the  suffering 
of  the  author  ;  arrival  in  England  ;  takes  in  75  American  pris- 
oners ;  conversation  with  one  of  the  prisoners;  departure  from 
Spithead  ;  preparations  for  an  engagement  with  a  supposed  ene- 
my ;  arrival  at  Chatham ,  chosen  by  the  captain's  lady  to  be  ed- 
ucated and  is  disappointed  by  a  misrepresentation  of  his  dispo- 
sition. 

Having  made  all  necessary  preparations  for  sea  and 
the  wind  being  now  favorable,  we  started  with  a  convoy 
of  40  sail  for  the  Mediterranean.  This  convoy  was  pro- 
tected by  two  frigates,  one  sloop  of  war  and  two  store- 
ships.  We  sailed  down  the  channel  with  a  favorable 
breeze  until  we  arrived  off  Torbay,  where  we  were  un- 
der the  necessity  of  coming  to  anchor  in  consequence  of 
adverse  winds.  In  Torbay  we  remained  a  few  days, 
waiting  for  a  favorable  wind  to  waft  us  to  our  destined 
port.  At  length  being  favored x  with  a  good  wind  we 
sailed  in  company  until  we  arrived  off  the  city  of  Lis- 
bon, at  which  point  our  convoy  was  divided  ;  one  half 
of  which  under  the  protection  of  one  of  the  frigates 
sailed  for  Lisbon,  it  being  the  place  of  their  destination, 
and  the  remainder  proceeded  on  their  voyage  until  we 


Or    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  53 

arrived  at  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar,  where  the  two  store- 
ships  separated  from  the  convoy  and  run  into  the  harbor. 
The  remainder  of  the  convoy  proceeded  on  the  voyage 
to  their  several  ports  up  the  Mediterranean. 

Having  parted  from  our  convoy  we  came  to  an  anchor 
in  the  bay  of  Gibraltar,  close  in  to  the  Mole-head. — 
Here  we  disembarked  two  companies  of  artillery  who 
were  to  be  stationed  three  years  at  this  impregnable 
fortress.  We  discharged  several  hundred  tons  of  cordage 
for  the  ships  of  war,  together  with  powder,  shot  and  pro- 
visons  of  all  descriptions.  Here  we  remained  two  or 
three  weeks,  during  which  time  we  discharged  a  part  of 
the  cargo  for  the  arsenal,  when  we  again  weighed  anchor 
and  steered  our  course  for  the  city  of  Carthagena,  where 
we  arrived  in  safety  in  13  or  14  days.  On  our  arrival 
at  this  port  we  came  to  anchor  close  into  the  land,  under 
the  castle  of  Tallo  ;  and  on  the  following  day  entered 
the  arsenal  basin.  Here  we  remained  six  weeks,  dur- 
ing which  time  we  were  busily  employed  in  dischaiging 
all  kinds  of  stores  for  the  Spanish  army  and  navy,  also 
for  the  English  garrison,  which  had  charge  of  aU  the  for- 
tifications of  this  important  city. 

While  lying  here,  the  ship's  crew  was  fully  indulged 
every  sabbath  with  liberty  on  shore.  This  privilege, 
greatly  appreciated  by  the  crew,  gave  us  a  good  oppor- 
tunity to  acquire  a  knowledge  of  the  city  and  its  fortifi- 
cations. 

The  first  sabbath  subsequent  to  our  arrival,  three  fourths 
of  the  ship's  crew  had  liberty  on  shore  and  I  had  the 
pleasure  of  being  one  of  the  number.  Three  or  four 
boys  of  us,  accompanied  by  an  old  quarter-master,  to 
whose  care  we  had  been  intrusted  while  on  shore,  soon 
parsed  through  the  navy-yard  gate,  which  led  us  into 
the  city  and  into  Royal  street.  This  was  a  long  and 
wide  street  ;  in  it  and  opposite  to  the  navy  yard  gate 
was  the  marine  barracks;  this  is  a  beautiful  stone  build- 
ing, four  stories  high,  very  long  and  capacious  and  suffi- 
ciently large  to  accommodate  6  or  7,000  men.  We 
proceeded  toward  the  gales  of  Madrid,  near  which  was 
a  very  extensive  brick  building  originally  built  for  a  gra- 
nary, but  recently  converted  into  a  barrack,  and  at  this 


54  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

time  was  occupied  as  such  by  the  English  troops.  To 
it  we  made  our  way,  enjoying  hopeful  anticipations  of 
being  richly  rewarded  by  the  expected  gratification  of 
seeing  and  holding  a  mutual  conversation  with  our  friends 
and  countrymen  whohnd  been  compelled  to  leave  behind 
them  their  friends  and  relatives  to  fight  the  battles  of 
strangers.  Upon  arriving  at  the  barracks  we  were  con- 
ducted up  to  the  first  floor,  which  was  occupied  by  the 
soldiers.  In  the  course  of  our  visit  through  the  several 
apartments  to  satisfy  our  curiosity,  i  met  wilh  several  of 
the  soldiers  who  came  out  with  me  in  my  previous  voy- 
age to  this  port.  They  congratulated  me  on  my  pros- 
perous return  home  and  my  speedy  return  out  to  this 
port  in  my  large  war  ship,  as  they  termed  it.  During 
our  visit  we  were  handsomely  entertained  and  invited  to 
visit  them  again  as  soon  as  convenience  would  permit  us. 

Being  fully  gratified  with  the  day's  recreation  and  the 
evening  shades  appearing,  we  slowly  retired  to  our 
respective  ships,  to  be  ready  to  resume  on  the  following 
day  our  duties. 

During  our  continuation  in  port,  we  continued  our 
visits  to  the  barracks  and  all  parts  of  the  city  and  its  for- 
tifications. Having  discharged  that  part  of  our  cargo 
which  was  destined  for  this  place,  we  again  made  prepar- 
ations to  continue  on  our  voyage  to  the  next  port  of  des- 
tination. The  ship  now  being  ready  for  sea  and  the 
wind  proving  favorable,  we  made  sail  for  port  Mahon, 
where  we  arrived  in  a  few  days.  At  port  Mahon  we 
met  part  of  Sir  Edward  Pillow's  fleet,  which  had  come 
from  the  blockade  of  Toulon  to  refit,  this  being  the 
place  appointed  by  government,  it  being  the  nearest  and 
most  suitable  place.  We  immediately  proceeded  to 
discharge  the  cargo  which  was  designed  for  these  ships, 
which  consisted  of  provisions  and  all  necessary  war- 
like stores.  Here  also  we  were  indulged  on  the  sab- 
bath with  permission  to  visit  the  shore  and  city.  Hav- 
ing delivered  our  stores  to  the  several  ships  we  again 
i»;ade  the  necessary  preparations  for  proceeding  on  our 
voyage.  While  lying  in  the  outward  roads,  ready  for 
sea,  an  occurrence  took  place  the  remembrance  of  which 
causes  the  blood  to  chill  in  my  veins.  It  was  this  :  one 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  55 

of  the  mariners  whose  name  I  cannot  remember,  indulg- 
ed a  strong  desire  to  revisit  the  city  once  more  before 
the  departure  of  the  ship.  This  unfortunate  man  was 
so  strongly  tempted  by  this  propensity,  that  he  put  his 
life  on  the  altar  as  a  sacrificial  equivalent  to  its  gratifica- 
tion. He  had  the  audaciousness  to  take  a  boat  in  the 
silent  hour  of  the  night,  from  the  ship's  side,  and  almost 
from  under  the  immediate  watchful  eye  of  the  quarter- 
master, in  which  he  conveyed  himself  on  shore.  Early 
in  the  morning  the  boat  was  missing  ;  the  quarter-mas- 
ters of  the  night-watches  could  give  no  account  of  it,  for 
which  omission  of  duty  they  were  put  in  irons  and  con- 
demned to  suffer  punishment  according  to  the  crime. — 
In  consequence  of  this  occurrence,  the  ship's  crew  were 
in  a  state  of  excitement,  knowing  that  if  the  captain 
brought  this  man  to  a  court  martial,  he  would  undoubt- 
edly be  hung  to  the  yard-arm  ;  this  being  the  penalty 
of  the  act,  unless  he  was  reprieved  and  sent  through  the 
fleet  to  receive  4  or  500  lashes  on  his  back;  he  had 
committed  a  double  crime,  stolen  the  boat  and  deserted 
the  ship,  the  penalty  of  which  is  death  by  the  laws  of 
war. 

Having  confined  the  quarter-masters,  a  boat  was  im- 
mediately dispatched  to  the  shore  in  search  of  the  de- 
serter. After  an  hour  or  two  he  was  apprehended, 
brought  on  board  and  put  in  irons.  At  9  o'clock  the 
captain  came  on  the  quarter-deck  and  after  walking  there 
a  few  minutes,  he  called  for  the  carpenter  and  his  mates 
to  rig  the  gratings,  and  the  boatswain  and  his  mates  to 
pipe  all  hands  to  witness  the  punishment.  This  is  a 
well  known  and  unwelcome  sound,  which  when  it  is 
heard,  conveys  dismay  and  creates  sensations  of  pain 
in  the  heart  of  every  honest  tar  which  cannot  be  des- 
scribed. 

The  ship's  crew  were  now  arranged  on  one  side  of 
the  quarter-deck,  while  the  marines  occupied  the  poop 
and  the  officers  the  other  side  of  the  deck.  The  gra- 
ting was  fastened  perpendicularly  to  the  main  rigging, 
and  the  captain  stood  near  it.  Near  by  stood  the  boat- 
swain and  his  mates.  The  prisoner  stood  near  and  op- 
posite to  the  captain. 


56  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

After  a  thorough  examination  of  the  prisoner's  case, 
the  captain  requested  him  to  say  whether  guilty,  or  not 
guilty.  He  plead  guilty  to  the  charge  alledged  to  him. 
Having  acknowledged  his  guilt,  the  captain  gave  him 
choice  to  be  tried  by  a  court-martial  on  board  of  the 
admiral's  ship,  or  to  receive  six  dozen  lashes  on  board  of 
his  own  ship.  To  the  latter  part  of  the  proposition  he 
readily  Acquiesced.  He  was  now  fastened,  hands  and 
feet,  to  the  gratings.  The  boatswain's  mate  stood  by 
with  the  cat-o'-nine-tails  in  his  hand,  waiting  for  the 
word  of  command,  to  strike.  Now  the  heart-rending 
scene  opened  to  our  view.  The  captain  spoke  : '  Boat- 
swain's mate,  do  your  duty.'  As  he  laid  on  the  strokes, 
the  blood  oozed  forth,  the  flesh  quivered,  the  sufferer 
groaned,  and  a  breathless  silence  pervaded  the  ship's 
company. 

The  first  boatswain's  mate  gave  him  thirty-six  lashes  ; 
the  pitiful  sufferer's  back  was  now  in  a  complete  gore. 
The  second  boatswain's  mate,  with  a  clean  '  cat,'  was 
now  called  to  do  his  duty  and  to  accomplish  the  sen- 
tence passed.  He  proceeded  and  accomplished  his  task, 
amid  the  groans  of  the  unfortunate  man,  whose  back 
exhibited  a  deplorable  sight  not  easily  described.  The 
quarter-master,  whose  watch  it  was,  when  the  boat  was 
taken,  was  also  slightly  punished,  for  omission  of  duty. 
The  others,  who  were  not  found  guilty,  were  liberated 
and  sent  to  perform  their  duty. 

This  is  one  of  the  heart-rending  scenes  which  men-of- 
war's  men  are  often  called  to  witness,  and  on  such  oc- 
casions, they  do  not  fail  to  bestow  their  honest  sym- 
pathies on  their  unfortunute  ship-mates. 

The  ship  being  ready  for  sea  and  the  wind  now  prov- 
ing favorable,  we  made  a  signal  for  sea  and  spread  our 
large  and  lofty  wings  once  more  to  the  winds,  which 
conveyed  us  to  cur  destined  port,  where  we  arrived  in  a 
few  days. 

Upon  our  arriving  in  the  Bay  of  Carthagena,  we 
sailed  into  the  arsenal  basin  and  came  to  an  anchor,  in 
a  suitable  place  to  take  in  our  cargo,  which  was  to  con- 
sist of  spars,  great  guns,  and  shot. 

In  our  stay  at  this  port,  the   ship's  crew  had  liberty 


OF    THOMAS    W    SMITH.  57 

to  go  on  shore  every  sabbath.  The  cabin  boys  gene- 
rally attended  their  master  to  the  market  every  morning. 
This  afforded  us  an  opportunity  to  acquire  a  know- 
ledge of  the  city. 

In  my  former  and  present  voyage,  I  acquired  consid- 
erable knowledge  of  the  Spanish  language,  which  I  found 
to  be  of  great  advantage  then,  and  in  many  instances  in 
my  subsequent  career  in  life. 

During  our  stay  here,  we  visited  all  the  fortifications 
within  and  without  the  city.  This  privilege  could  not 
have  been  granted  us,  had  we  not  been  employed 
in  the  navy,  and  the  fortifications  in  the  possession  of 
the  British.  In  addition  to  this,  we  visited  all  the  con- 
vents and  obtained  some  knowledge  of  the  orders  of 
their  priests  and  friars. 

Carthagena  cannot  fail  of  being  interesting  to  a  for- 
eign observer.  Interesting  for  its  large  and  beautiful 
bay,  its  safe  and  commodious  harbor,  which  is  capable 
of  containing  a.  thousand  ships  of  war  in  perfect  safety. 
The  Arsenal  Basin,  which  is  within  the  harbor,  is  a 
most  beautiful  and  safe  place  for  shipping,  as  they  are 
completely  sheltered  from  every  danger. 

The  city  presents  the  form  of  a  bow,  the  part  which 
faces  toward  the  city  of  Madrid  represents  the  back  part 
of  the  bow,  and  the  part  which  faces  the  harbor  repre- 
sents the  front  of  it.  The  breadth  of  it  from  the  cen- 
ter of  the  bow  to  the  center  of  the  string,  that  is  from 
the  gates  of  Madrid  to  the  sea  gates,  is  probably  one  mile 
and  a  half  long.  The  principal  street,  which  runs 
in  the  direction  of  the  string  of  the  bow,  is  probably  two 
miles  and  a  half,  that  is,  from  the  gates  of  St.  James  to 
the  Arsenal  gate. 

This  city  is  built  on  a  plain,  and  it  is  surrounded  by  a 
strong,  well-built  rampart ;  the  outer  wall  of  which  is 
60  feet  high  and  is  built  of  very  large  and  massive  stone. 
From  the  wall  projects  half-moon  bastions,  which  are 
one-sixth  of  a  mile  apart,  mounting  ten  guns  each.  The 
part  of  the  rampart  which  faces  Madrid  is  60  feet  wide; 
that  which  faces  the  sea,  the  greatest  part  of  it  300  feet 
wide.  This  part  of  the  rampart  is  situated  at  the  foot 
of  the  Moorish  castle.  It  is  handsomely  flagged  and 
8 


58  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

sufficiently  large  for  a  parade  ground,  for  three  or  four 
thousand  troops  at  a  time,  for  which  purpose  it  is 
frequently  used.  This  rampart  has  but  two  bastions, 
the  remainder  being  a  long,  straight,  high  and  strong 
wall,  against  whose  base  the  sea  is  continually  dashing. 
This  rampart  rises  on  the  side  of  a  mountain,  on  the  left 
of  the  inland  part  of  the  city,  and  unites  to  the  castle  of 
Tallo,  which  crowns  a  mountain  one  mile  long  and  7  or 
800  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  which  forms  the 
most  important  part  of  the  harbor,  its  basin.  The  cas- 
tle has  a  complete  command  over  the  harbor,  and  all  its 
fortifications  within  and  without  the  city.  It  is  inacces- 
sible on  every  side  and  therefore  impregnable  to  every 
foe.  About  three-quarters  of  a  mile  without  the  city, 
opposite  to  the  castle  of  Tallo,  is  another  mountain, 
which  is  5  or  6  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea  and  which  is  inaccessible  on  three  sides,  and  the 
fourth  is  very  difficult  of  access.  On  it  is  a  large  stone 
castle,  which  is  named  Soladado,  or  Solitude,  which 
mounts  from  70  to  80  guns.  This  castle  can  render  no 
protection  to  the  city,  farther  than  to  prevent  an  enemy 
from  raising  a  fortification  on  the  mount,  which  would 
very  much  annoy  the  castle  of  Tallo. 

The  space  from  the  foot  of  this  mountain  to  the  near- 
est part  of  the  city  wall  is  three-fourths  of  a  mile;  it  is 
nearly  level  and  is  occupied  by  a  large  village,  which 
bears  the  name  of  Kitta-pellagos  or  f  take-off-skins/ 
Here  there  are  many  gardens  of  note  and  particularly 
the  Governor's,  which  is  very  large  and  remarkable  for 
beauty. 

Half  a  mile  distant  "on  the  right  of  the  city,  as  you 
face  it  from  the  harbor,  is  another  very  large  village, 
which  is  denominated  St.  Cines,  and  which  is  situated 
on  plain  ground  along  the  sea-shore.  In  the  midst  of 
this  village  is  a  small  castle,  which  also  bears  the  name 
of  the  saint,  and  is  an  excellent  outwork.  On  the  right 
hand  of  the  entrance  of  the  harbor  and  opposite  to  the 
castle  of  Tallo  is  another  castle  situated  on  a  high  ridge, 
which  also  commands  the  entrance  and  a  great  part  of 
the  harbor.  Without  the  city  wall  there  is  a  ditch 
which  completely  encircles  the  city  from  one  side  of  the 


OF    THOMAS    W.     SMITH.  59 

sea  to  the  other,  including  the  mountain,  on  which  the 
castle  of  Tallo  stands  at  whose  outward  base  is  a  lake 
into  which  the  ditch  empties  its  contents.  This  lake 
is  separated  from  the  sea  by  a  small  sand  bank,  which 
is  from  60  to  70  feet  wide  and  one-fourth  of  a  mile 
long,  and  abounds  with  good  fish. 

Before  the  city  is  an  avenue,  or  kind  of  mall,  which 
is  three  miles  long,  150  feet  wide,  and  it  is  decorated 
and  shaded  by  a  line  of  high  and  beautiful  trees,  en- 
twining in  each  others'  boughs.  It  commences  at  the 
gates  of  Madrid  and  ends  at  a  very  large  and  beautiful 
village,  which  bears  the  name  of  St.  Antonio.  This  is 
a  place  of  recreation  for  the  nobility  ;  and  to  it  they 
generally  resort  in  the  after  part  of  the  day  to  enjoy  the 
fresh  reviving  air. 

There  is  a  street  which  runs  straight  from  the  gates 
of  Madrid  to  the  sea-gates,  which  is  called  la  calle  prin- 
cipal, or  principal  street.  In  this  street  is  the  govern- 
or's mansion  and  several  national  buildings  built  of 
black  marble.  This  street  contains  the  three  principal 
squares,  each  of  which  contains  a  large  and  beautiful 
white  marble  fountain,  from  which  issues  streams  of  crys- 
tal water. 

The  city  contains  nine  marble  fountains,  situated  in 
the  principal  squares  :  from  them  the  wants  of  the  in- 
habitants are  daily  supplied.  It  also  contains  four  large 
and  beautiful  barracks,  capable  of  accommodating  20,000 
troops.  Close  to  the  rampart  on  the  right  side  of  the 
gates  of  Madrid  is  a  long  and  spacious  building  which  is 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  about  400  feet  wide, 
3  stories  high,  and  is  built  of  large  square  stones.  It  is 
the  national  armory. 

On  the  right  of  the  sea  gates,  and  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  distant,  300  hundred  yards  within  the  rampart,  is 
a  high  hill,  the  summit  of  which  is  crowned  with  a  cas- 
tle, denominated  the  Moorish  castle,  which  is  said  to 
have  been  built  and  possessed  by  the  Moors  some  hun- 
dreds of  years  ago.  It  is  a  strong  and  commanding  for- 
tification, and  it  might,  with  the  greatest  propriety,  be 
denominated  a  citadel,  as  it  is  within  the  city ;  but  it  by 
far  excels  an  ordinary  fortification  of  that  kind,  being 


60  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

fortified  by  nature  and   impregnable.     It  commands  the 
city,  its  ramparts  and  all  tbe  harbor. 

The  city  contains  six  monasteries  and  one  nunnery  ; 
each  monastery  has  from  30  to  40  priests  and  friars. 

There  is  an  existing  misunderstanding  which  is  prev- 
alent with  many  persons  relative  to  the  proper  order  of 
priests  and  friars.  I  have  therefore  deemed  it  advisable, 
for  the  benefit  of  the  reader,  to  define  the  orders. 

A  candidate  for  the  priesthood  must  be  in  posses- 
sion of  a  thorough  collegiate  education,  this  being  indis- 
pensable to  his  admission  to  the  convent  ;  after  which 
he  has  to  wait  a  number  of  months  to  go  through  his  de- 
grees, previous  to  ordination  to  the  order  of  the  priest- 
hood. Having  been  ordained,  he  is  then  qualified  to 
perform  the  duties  of  his  office,  which  is  to  say  mass, 
confess  the  people  of  their  sins,  inflict  penance,  and  to 
forgive  sin  in  the  name  of  the  Lord  ;  which  the  individ- 
ual believes  to  be  done  as  soon  as  the  benediction  is  con- 
ferred upon  him. 

A  qualified  priest  has  his  head  shaved  round,  one  inch 
above  the  ear,  and  four  inches  in  diameter  on  the  crown 
of  the  head.  This  leaves  the  hair  to  resemble  a  crown, 
which  is  emblematic  of  the  crown  of  thorns  worn  by  our 
Savior  at  his  crucifixion. 

As  to  the  friars  it  is  indispensable  that  they  possess 
piety  equal  to  that  of  the  priests,  in  order  to  be  qualifi- 
ed for  admittance  into  the  convent.  A  liberal  education 
is  not  required  of  a  friar,  nor  can  can  he  attain  to  the 
holy  orders  of  the  priesthood.  His  duty  is  to  perform 
the  domestic  labor  of  the  convent.  His  garments  differ 
from  those  of  the  priests  ;  his  head  is  not  shaved.  The 
friars  solicit  alms  for  the  convent.  This  duty  is  per- 
formed by  some  on  foot  and  others  on  horse-back. 
Those  who  perform  this  duty  on  foot,  take  the  image  of 
the  patron  saint  of  the  convent  to  which  they  belong, 
and  travel  the  country  round  in  quest  of  alms  for  the 
saint.  These  collect  money  only,  but  those  on  horse- 
back collect  grain  of  all  descriptions  and  any  thing  that 
the  benevolent  public  gratuitously  bestows  upon  them. 

I  have  visited  these  convents  in  succession.  Their 
private  and  dining  apartments  are  not  remarkable  for  neat- 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  61 

ness.  I  have  visited  their  churches  a  number  of  times. 
They  are  extremely  beautiful,  being  ornamented  with 
rich  paintings  and  costly  images.  Their  altars  are  also 
richly  decorated  with  gold  and  silver  candle-sticks  and 
holy  vessels.  Their  mass  meetings,  their  high  feasts, 
and  their  yearly  religious  processions  exhibit  a  degree  of 
grandeur  seldom  seen  in  a  Protestant  country. 

The  Spanish  mass  commences  on  the  Sabbath  at  4 
o'clock,  A.  M.  and  continues  unlil  12  o'clock,  having  a 
different  priest  each  hour.  After  the  bells  have  done 
tolling  and  the  congregation  has  assembled,  a  number  of 
large  wax  candles  being  lit  on  the  altar  and  on  the  great 
arch  over  the  altar,  which  contains  the  great  images, 
the  priest  makes  his  appeal ance,  dressed  in  costly  robes 
and  enters  within  the  gates  of  the  altar  ;  approaches  the 
altar  and  opens  the  Latin  bible  which  is  placed  on  a 
suitable  stand  and  always  on  the  altar.  The  priest  then 
commences  by  reading  a  Latin  prayer,  to  which  the  as- 
sistants, who  are  school-boys  previously  taught,  occa- 
sionally respond,  Amen.  During  the  continuance  of  the 
service,  he  often  puts  the  palms  of  his  hands  together 
and  raises  them  and  his  eyes  towards  the  great  image, 
bowing  his  head  and  knee  at  the  same  time.  He  then 
passes  to  the  other  end  of  the  altar,  bowing  his  knee  ev- 
ery time  he  passes  or  repasses  to  read  in  the  different 
bibles.  The  assistant  then  gets  the  Ksop  and  sprinkles 
the  place  and  the  altar  with  holy  water.  The  priest 
still  continues  to  read,  and  the  assistant  occasionally  re- 
sponds, Amen.  The  assistant  then  brings  to  the  priest 
the  censer  of  incense,  which  betakes,  and  passes  to  and 
fro  before  the  altar  several  times,  swinging  the  censer  at 
the  same  time,  from  which  a  cloud  of  smoke  ascends. 
After  this,  the  assistant  brings  to  him  a  box  of  holy  wa- 
fers, out  of  which  he  takes  one  ;  holding  it  in  his  fingers, 
he  prays  over  it,  then  facing  the  congregation,  he  raises 
it  above  his  head.  At  the  same  time,  a  little  bell 
is  rung  by  the  assistant,  and  the  congregation  bow  down 
and  strike  their  breasts  as  an  emblem  of  repentance;  the 
congregation  all  this  while  remain  on  their  knees,  as 
there  are  no  seats  of  any  description.  After  this  the 
priest  to  the  saint  above  the  altar,  raises  the  holy  wafer, 


62  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

which  is  stamped  with  the  Savior's  image,  and  bows  as 
he  takes  one  half  of  it  into  his  mouth,  the  wafer  being 
twice  as  large  as  a  dollar,  and  by  far  too  large  to  be  in- 
troduced into  the  mouth  at  once.  The  assistant,  being 
on  his  knees,  rings  a  little  bell  to  notify  the  congrega- 
tion, and  they  beat  their  breasts  during  the  time  the 
priest  is  partaking  of  the  f  real  body  of  Christ,'  which 
they  say,  is  in  the  wafer,  or  ostia,  after  it  has  been 
blessed  by  the  priest.  After  this  the  assistant  biings 
the  golden  chalice,  which  very  much  resembles  a  wine- 
glass in  shape,  but  larger,  being  one  foot  high  and  oth- 
erwise in  proportion.  This  is  the  holy  vessel,  out  of 
which  the  priests  partake  of  the  wine  which  they  be- 
lieve is  the  real  blood  of  our  Savior,  after  it  has  been 
blessed  by  the  priest.  The  priest  having  partaken  of 
the  very  body  and  blood  of  our  Savior,  according  to 
their  faith,  the  assistant  rings  a  little  bell  again,  which 
produces  a  different  sound  from  the  previous  one,  it  be- 
ing a  signal  for  the  congregation  to  rest,  after  having 
been  on  their  knees  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  The 
male  part  of  the  assembly  then  rise  up  and  stand  on 
their  feet,  while  the  females  sit  on  their  heels. 

After  a  few  more  ceremonies,  the  priest  faces  the  con- 
gregation, puts  forth  his  hand,  makes  the  sign  of  the 
cross  and  pronounces  the  benediction.  The  mass  is 
then  at  an  end. 

The  next  scene  worthy  of  notice  here  is  their  re* 
ligious  processions,  which  are  performed  with  great 
pomp. 

The  procession  is  chiefly  made  up  of  the  members  of 
the  different  monasteries  and  some  citizens.  The  streets 
through  which  the  procession  is  to  pass,  are  thickly 
strewed  with  green  rushes  and  flowers  of  every  descrip- 
tion. This  gives  it  a  gay  and  fascinating  appearance. 

The  order  of  the  procession  is  as  follows:  First. 
The  full  statue  of  our  Savior  on  the  cross,  borne  by 
eight  men.  After  this  follows  between  2  and  300  Naz- 
arenos  or  Nazarenes,  who  are  dressed  in  the  original 
Nazarene  style.  This  dress  consists  of  a  long  purple 
robe,  with  a  smooth  cap  of  the  same  cloth,  which  is 
three  feet  high  and  in  the  shape  of  a  sugar  loaf,  with  a 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  63 

piece  of  the  same  cloth  over  the  their  faces  in  which 
are  two  little  holes  for  windows. 

In  the  second  order  of  the  procession,  the  image  of 
John  the  Baptist,  is  borne  by  eight  men  and  followed 
by  the  highest  order  of  priests,  who  are  denominated 
clarions.  They  were  dressed  with  long  black  gowns, 
short  narrow  blacks  ephods,  with  a  square  piece  of  blue 
embroidered  velvet  on  the  breast,  a  four  cornered  black 
mitre,  and  high  shoes  with  very  large  silver  buckles.— 
No  person  can  be  admitted  as  a  candidate  for  this  order 
of  priests  excepting  he  be  of  a  high,  rich  and  indepen- 
dent family. 

In  the  third  order  of  the  procession  is  the  image  of  St. 
Peter  in  full  stature,  borne  by  eight  men,  followed  by 
the  priests  of  that  order,  who  are  denominated  capuchin  Of. 
Their  robes  consist  of  a  long  mixed  woolen  gown,  with 
large  sleeves  with  pockets,  sufficiently  large  to  hold  half 
a  peck  of  green  peas,  and  round  the  neck  and  on  thj 
back  part  of  the  head,  is  a  hood  used  instead  of  a  hat. 
Round  the  waist  is  a  black  horse-hair  girdle  with  a  num- 
ber of  knots  worked  on  it.  They  also  wear  a  rosary 
which  is  composed  of  large  beads  at  the  middle  of  which 
hangs  a  wooden  cross  six  inches  in  length  and  beautiful- 
ly set  with  pearls.  On  the  feet,  high  hemp  sandals. 
Their  beards  are  a  foot  long,  and  depicted,  disfigured,  if 
not  sanctified  countenances. 

In  the  fourth  order  of  the  procession,  the  image  of  St. 
John  was  followed  by  the  priests  of  that  order,  who 
wear  long  light  and  black  robes,  over  which  they  have 
a  white  loose  Ephod,  and  on  their  heads  a  large  rimmed 
black  hat  ;  on  their  feet  high  thin  shoes,  and  round  their 
waist  a  black  leather  strap  and  buckles. 

In  the  fifth  order  of  the  procession,  the  image  of  St. 
Joseph  is  followed  by  the  priests  of  that  order,  uho  wear 
long  white  robes,  with  long  black  and  light  ephods 
tightened  round  their  waists  with  a  white  hemp  cord. 
Their  heads  were  ornamented  with  white  broad  rimmed 
hats,  and  on  their  feet  light  shoes,  with  small  silver  buck- 
les. 

In  the  sixth  order  of  procession,  the  image  of  St. 
Francis,  in  full  stature,  is  followed  by  the  priests  of  that 


64  LIFE  AND  TRAVELS 

order,  who  wear  long,  coarse  woolen  blue  robes,  with 
long  peaked  elbow  pockets,  and  a  large  peaked  hood  on 
the  back  of  their  necks,  a  substitute  for  a  hat.  Round 
their  waists  a  hemp  girdle  full  of  knots,  and  on  their 
feet  white  hemp  sandals. 

In  the  seventh  order  of  the  procession  the  image  of 
St.  Mary  is  followed  by  the  priests  of  that  order,  whose 
robes  are  white  and  fine  ;  on  their  heads  a  broad  rimmed 
hat,  and  on  their  feet  thin  shoes,  with  middle  sized  sil- 
ver buckles. 

On  either  side  of  the  priests,  the  whole  length  of  the 
procession,  the  citizens  followed,  each  bearing  a  large 
lighted  wax  candle,  from  four  to  five  feet  in  length,  and 
three  inches  in  diameter. 

There  is  an  existing  tradition  which  very  much  ope- 
rates on  the  minds  of  this  credulous  people.  Jt  is  this  : 
It  is  said  that  any  person,  bearing  a  lighted  candle  in 
the  procession,  whose  light  by  chance  should  happen  to 
be  extinguished  before  the  termination  of  the  procession, 
is  destined  to  die  very  soon. 

I  have  stood  by  and  have  heard  the  remark  made  by 
many  a  spectator,  whenever  any  person  passed  by  who 
had  been  so  unfortunate  as  to  lose  his  light,  that  he  must 
die  soon. 

Respecting  the  nunnery  I  have  no  information  to  irn- 
part,  as  there  was  no  admittance  to  it,  and  the  nuns  are 
invisible  to  every  eye  except  that  of  the  bishops  and 
priests.  But  notwithstanding  this  I  have  seen  several 
nuns  in  the  streets  of  this  city,  but  they  were  from  those 
cities  which  the  French  had  captured,  from  which  they 
had  made  their  escape.  They  were  dressed  in  white 
long  woolen  robes  over  which  they  wore  a  black  robe 
and  a  long  close  black  veil,  through  which  it  was  impos- 
sible to  discern  any  traces  of  the  face  excepting  the  eye- 
balls sparkling  through  two  small  holes. 

I  shall  now  endeavor  to  amuse  the  reader  by  impart- 
ing some  interesting  information  relative  to  a  Spanish 
masquerade.  A  Spanish  masquerade  is  a  yearly  feast, 
which  to  the  Spaniards  is  a  season  of  universal  hilarity, 
all  classes  of  society  participating  without  exception.  I 
shall  here  attempt  to  impart  no  information  as  to  the  rea- 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  65 

son  which  led  to  the  celebration  of  this  feast  on  the  three 
particular  days.  It  will  only  be  my  object  to  describe 
a  Spanish  masquerade  as  it  exists  or  as  it  existed  at  that 
period.  The  masks  are  made  of  all  sizes  and  descrip- 
tions, suited  to  all  faces  and  all  ages.  There  is  no 
particular  fashion  or  rule  to  be  observed  in  relation  to 
dress.  All  are  at  liberty  to  choose  their  dresses  and 
masks  as  their  fancy  may  dictate.  This  without  doubt  is 
obvious  to  the  spectator  as  his  eye  meets  the  lively 
throng  of  thousands  of  individuals,  who  for  their  own 
gratification,  have  chosen  different  and  indescribable  dres- 
ses. 

The  main  object  to  be  accomplished  by  those  who 
participate  in  a  masquerade,  is  the  modification  of  the 
dress,  behavior  and  voice  to  such  an  extent  as  to  escape 
personal  recognition,  even  by  their  most  intimate  friends. 
For  this  purpose  they  disguise  themselves  in  a  thousand 
indescribable  ways.  Middle  aged  persons  choose  dresses 
which  would  be  more  suitable  for  young  persons,  and 
young  persons  those  which  would  be  more  suitable  to 
the  aged.  Women  dress  in  men's  attire  and  men  in  wo- 
men's. It  is  not  unusual  for  members  of  one  family  to 
be  enjoying  each  other's  company  at  the  same  dancing 
ring,  and  yet  not  be  aware  of  each  other's  presence. 
You  will  not  unfrequently  see  members  of  both  sexes 
decorated  in  Turkish  attire,  riding  upon  mules,  selling 
dates,  as  their  character.  The  men  have  silk  Turbans 
on  thoir  heads  of  various  colors,  long  false  beards,  their 
mouths  generally  ornamented  with  long  Turkish  pipes 
reaching  to  the  ground,  out  of  which  issues  and  ascends 
tobacco  smoke.  Others  are  disguised  in  the  attire  of 
Arianos  or  caravan  drivers,  with  large  leather  bottles 
hanging  to  their  saddles,  which  are  filled  with  the  best 
of  good  wine,  while  in  their  hands  some  of  them  hold 
a  long  tin  gun,  into  which  they  blow  to  discharge  its 
contents. 

The  next  thing  which  attracted  my  attention  was  an 
old  looking  masker,  dressed  with  a  fisher's  coat,  holding 
in  his  hand  a  bamboo  fishing  pole  with  a  string  attached  to 
its  end  on  which  wa?  a  small  round  cake.  On  the  right 
he  held  a  short  stick  with  which  he  struck  the  rod.  Be- 
9 


66  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

fore  him  were  about  twenty  boys  who  kept  constantly 
jumping  at  the  cake  with  their  mouths  open  endeavoring 
to  catch  it,  and  if  any  succeeded  it  was  his  as  the  reward 
of  his  labor,  but  if  any  attempted  to  possess  themselves 
of  it  by  any  unfair  means  they  were  rewarded  by  the 
old  masker  with  the  weight  of  his  stick. 

Another  thing  which  attracted  my  attention,  was  six 
smart  looking  maskers,  whose  dresses  resembled  the 
dresses  of  harlequins.  They  had  a  large  white  cloth 
and  in  it  a  full  size  man,  made  of  rags,  dressed  in  the 
like  attire  as  themselves.  These  maskers  amused  them- 
selves by  tossing  their  rag  man  into  the  balconies  amid 
the  young  ladies  who  are  generally  out  witnessing  the 
scene.  Sometimes  the  young  ladies  would  seize  it  as 
their  prize  and  endeavor  to  conceal  it  from  them,  and 
thus  amuse  themselves  at  the  others'  expense.  But  this 
seldom  took  place  although  it  was  attempted  in  very 
many  instances,  as  they  were  supplied  with  two  scaling 
ladders,  by  which  means  they  would  immediately  scale 
the  balcony  and  recover  their  amusing  object. 

The  next  and  most  interesting  scene  to  my  youthful 
mind  was  the  Gigantio  e  La  giganta.  These  were  two 
great  figures,  representing  a  giant  and  giantess,  who  made 
their  appearance  in  the  midst  of  the  great  concourse, 
looking  down  upon  the  crowd  from  their  towering  bights 
as  if  they  had  been  like  the  pigmies,  mentioned  in  Gulli- 
ver's travels. 

This  imitation  of  the  ancient  fabled  overgrown  inhab- 
itants of  our  earth  was  so  perfect  in  its  construction,  that, 
had  we  lived  in  an  age  when  giants  inhabited  the  earth, 
we  should  have  found  it  a  difficult  task  to  have  discov- 
ered the  deception  at  a  distance  of  200  yards.  These 
unusually  wrought  figures  were  so  ingeniously  construc- 
ted as  to  admit  motion  when  operated  on  by  an  inward 
agent.  The  feet  moved  forward  and  backwards  and  the 
arms  were  capable  of  every  motion.  The  head  moved 
apparently  as  easy  as  though  it  had  been  in  reality  a 
living  head.  In  each  of  their  right  hands  they  held  a 
Balking  stick  which  they  seemingly  used  quite  handily. 
My  attention  being  so  intensely  attracted  by  the  sight 
of  these  unusual  beings  I  was  unavoidably  drawn  by 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  67 

them  and  I  mingled  with  a  throng  of  boys  and  maskers 
which  followed  and  surrounded  them  as  they  went.  I 
followed  them  in  the  throng  about  a  mile  toward  the 
centre  of  the  city.  At  last  they  made  a  stand  and  I 
forced  rny  way  as  near  to  them  as  possible.  It  was  not 
until  then  that  I  became  convinced  of  the  deception.  I 
then  ascertained  that  the  visible  parts  of  the  figures  were 
composed  of  very  fine  paste  board,  so  completely  formed 
and  adapted  to  the  human  form  as  to  admit  of  no  rival- 
ry. I  drew  nearer  to  the  male  figure  who  apparently 
stood  deeply  engaged  in  conversation  with  a  citizen.  On 
approaching  this  monstrous  human  form  1  ascertained 
that  there  was  actually  a  voice  proceeding  forth  from 
some  part  of  the  figure,  which  on  strict  examination  I 
ascertained  to  proceed  from  the  abdomen.  On  a  yet 
stricter  examination  I  discovered  the  mouth  and  eye 
holes,which  discovery  led  me  to  the  conclusion  that  these 
figures  were  operated  on  by  persons  inclosed  within. 

After  the  sun  has  descended  the  maskers  retire  from  the 
bustle  of  the  street  to  large  and  suitable  halls,  fitted  for 
the  occasion,  to  spend  the  evening  in  a  social  dance. — 
This  is  generally  the  course  adopted  within  a  city,  but 
in  the  suburbs  they  pursue  a  different  course.  They  on 
all  occasions  of  this  kind,  the  streets  being  wide,  form 
large  circles  before  their  doors,  with  benches  and  chairs 
in  the  midst  of  which  they  perform  their  dancing.  The 
instruments  of  music  to  which  they  dance  are  la  Gitur- 
ra  e  la  Manrubia;  the  former  is  a  large  instrument  with 
eight  or  nine  pairs  of  strings  which  are  played  by  the 
fingers  ;  the  latter  is  small  and  it  has  four  or  five  strings 
and  is  played  with  a  small  stick.  The  dancers  keep  to 
the  tune  as  near  as  possible,  the  males  snapping  their 
fingers  and  the  females  playing  bass  Castanaters  or  bra- 
kers,  which  are  made  of  hard  wood  and  in  the  shape  of 
a  cockle  shell.  They  are  tied  to  the  thumb  with  a  hand- 
some ribbon  to  support  them,  and  being  thus  secured, 
they  apply  the  four  fingers  to  them,  which  produces  a 
rattling  noise  which  greatly  animates  the  dancers  and 
assists  the  music. 

In  this  manner  the  feast  is  kept  for  three  successive 
days,  which  is  the  lawful  and  appointed  time.  But  it  is 


68  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

• 

proverbially  said,  that  while  we  are  in  the  midst  of  life 
we  are  in  death.  This  world  is  the  theatre  of  life  ;  man 
is  the  actor  and  death  the  changer  of  the  scene.  To- 
day we  are  invited  to  the  house  of  feasting  to  drink  of 
the  overflowing  cup  of  rejoicing  ;  to-morrow  to  drink 
deeply  of  the  bitter  cup  of  affliction.  Thus  it  was  with 
us.  We  had  been  much  delighted  with  the  recent  in- 
teresting scenes  which  we  had  witnessed.  But  oh  !  how 
solemn  the  thought,  that  after  witnessing  and  feasting  on 
such  a  cheering  and  stirring  scene,  that  we  should  be 
called  to  witness  immediately  after  a  scene  revolting  to 
our  nature  and  terrific  to  mortality. 

The  scene  to  which  our  attention  was  now  invited, 
was  the  public  execution  of  three  unfortunate  English 
deserters  from  the  army,  who,  having  been  apprehended 
and  tried  were  condemned  to  be  publicly  shot,  as  an  ex- 
ample to  others.  This  is  the  inhuman  and  barbarous 
punishment  which  the  spirit  of  war  deals  out  for  that 
which  may  be  no  sin  in  the  sight  of  God.  The  day  ap- 
pointed for  their  public  execution  having  arrived  the 
troops  marched  without  the  city  early  in  the  morning  to 
witness  the  dreadful  and  melancholy  scene.  I  stood  at 
the  gates  of  Madrid  and  beheld  the  troops  as  they  pass- 
ed. In  the  rear  were  the  unfortunate  victims,  the  ob- 
ject of  our  commiseration.  They  were  escorted  by  a 
small  guard.  After  them  followed  three  coffins  born  by 
twelve  of  their  men.  Oh  !  reader,  what  could  have 
been  the  hidden  thoughts  of  their  minds  and  the  feelings 
and  emotions  of  their  hearts?  Where  is  the  pen  that 
can  depict  or  the  tongue  that  can  tell  the  agonizing  emo- 
tions of  their  hearts.  The  troops,  having  arrived  at  the 
appointed  place,  halted  and  formed  in  a  concave  line. 
The  appointed  guard  which  was  to  perform  the  dreadful 
duty  stood  arranged  without  the  line  and  in  the  centre 
of  the  concave,  waiting  for  the  dreadful  signal  to  fire. 
The  poor,  trembling  convicts  stood  in  front  of  the  troops 
without  the  concave,  facing  the  guard  from  whom  they 
momentarily  expected  to  receive  the  mortal  shot.  All 
this  while  the  troops  stood  motionless  and  a  deathly  si- 
lence pervaded  the  ranks.  Every  eye  was  fixed  on  the 
commanding  office;- who  stood  a  few  paces  fro.m  the  right 


OF  THOMAS"  w.  SMITH.  69 

\ 

wing  ready  to  give  the  dreadful  signal  of  death.  At  last 
the  dreadful  signal  was  given  ;  the  guard  fired  ;  the  vic- 
tims fell  ;  a  momentary  struggle  and  life  was  extinct. 
The  bodies  of  the  poor  fellows  laid  lifeless  on  the  sod. 
The  troops  from  the  left  wing  commenced  the  line  of 
march  by  the  remains  of  their  unfortunate  comrades.  This 
was  done  in  order  lhat  the  example  might  be  fully  im- 
printed on  their  hearts  and  make  a  deeper  and  more  last- 
ing impression.  I  beheld  until  the  very  last  soldier,  the 
sergeant  of  the  guard,  marched  by.  At  that  moment 
one  of  the  unfortunate  victims  of  the  law  of  war  weltering 
in  his  blood,  raised  himself  and  reclined  on  his  hand. 
At  this  unexpected  event,  the  sergeant  made  a  stand 
and  discharged  into  his  head  the  contents  of  his  gun, 
which  apparently  was  provided  for  the  occasion.  This 
unexpected  and  heart-rending  scene  produced  indescriba- 
ble emotions  in  my  mind,  such  as  I  never  experienced 
before.  I  could  not  help  exclaiming:  "Oh!  that  nun 
might  be  humane  to  his  fellow  man." 

As  I  have  given  the  reader  some  account  of  the  Eng- 
lish Gipsys,  it  will  now  be  my  object  to  give  him  some 
information  relative  to  the  supposed  origin  and  peculiar- 
ities of  the  Spanish  Gipsys.  Having  resided  for  three 
months  in  the  village  of  St.  Antonio,  which  is  three  miles 
from  the  city  ot  Carthagena,  and  during  the  time,  had 
a  good  opportunity  to  acquire  the  requisite  knowledge 
as  I  resided  in  the  midst  of  this  class  of  people. 

Los  Gitanos  or  the  Gipsys  of  Spain,  originally  emi- 
grated from  Egito  or  Egypt,  Consequently  ihey  have 
been  properly  denominated  by  the  Spaniards  Gitanos, 
the  interpretation  of  which  is  Giptians. 

The  Spanish  Gipsys  are  a  peculiarly  distinct  people, 
not  unlike  the  Jews  in  this  particular,  as  they  contract 
no  matrimonial  alliances  with  any  but  their  own  people  : 
arid  if  they  were  so  disposed  it  would  be  utterly  impos- 
sible, as  they  are  held  in  contempt  by  all  classes  of  so- 
ciety. 

With  respect  to  their  religious  views,  they  without 
exception  embrace  the  whole  of  the  Catholic  faith,  but 
like  other  classes  of  society  they  do  not  strictly  adhere 
to  their  professions,  the  consequence  of  which  is  great 


70  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

immorality.  With  regard  to  their  domestic  habits,  they 
are  rather  inclined  to  indolence  and  uncleanliness,  in 
which  they  sink  beneath  even  the  lowest  classes  of  the 
Spaniards. 

Another  of  their  characteristics  is  their  peculiar  pro- 
pensity for  dancing,  and  the  peculiarities  of  their  dances 
which  greatly  differ  from  those  of  tha  Spaniards.  The 
instrument  of  music  to  which  they  generally  dance  is 
La  Sumbomba,  which  is  composed  of  an  earthen  ware  pot, 
sufficiently  large  to  contain  three  or  four  gallons.  Over 
the  mouth  of  this  pot  is  a  kid  skin,  with  a  reed  placed 
and  fastened  in  its  centre  with  a  piece  of  wire.  To  pro- 
duce music  with  this  instrument,  the  hand  is  slid  up  and 
down  the  reed  which  produces  a  rumbling  noise,  which 
constitutes  the  music. 

Another  trait  which  peculiarly  characterizes  the  Los- 
gitanos  is  that  they  are  the  greatest  jumpers  in  Spain, 
having  become  so  by  constant  practice  from  childhood. 
I  have  witnessed  this  practice  over  one  hundred  times 
while  residing  with  my  master  in  the  village  of  St.  An- 
tonio. Their  dress  greatly  differs  from  that  of  the  Span- 
iards. Their  jackets  and  breeches  are  richly  ornament- 
ed and  trimmed  with  silver  or  gold  spangles  according  to 
their  several  abilities.  La  montera  or  the  cap  which 
they  wear  is  made  of  silk  velvet  and  is  richly  adorned 
with  embroidery  and  small  silk  tassels,  and  is  made  in 
the  shape  of  a  cocked  hat.  The  vest  is  beautifully 
trimmed  and  set  off  with  four  rows  of  silver  bell-buttons. 
The  shoes  are  also  set  off  with  a  pair  of  silver  or  gold 
buckles.  This  is  a  description  of  their  Sunday  dress. 
On  other  days  of  the  week  their  dresses  are  not  so  cost- 
ly and  fantastical.  With  regard  to  their  honesty  and 
veracity  they  are  not  to  be  relied  on  and  are  therefore 
looked  upon  by  their  nearest  neighbors  with  a  jealous 
eye. 

Another  prominent  feature  by  which  they  are  charac- 
terized is  their  business,  by  which  they  obtain  a  subsis- 
tence, for  they  all  have  the  same  employment.  I  have 
not  seen  or  heard  of  a  Spaniard's  being  engaged  in  the 
business.  The  business  to  which  we  have  alluded  is 
the  shearing  of  asses  and  mules,  which  they  perform 


OF    THOMAS   W.    SMITH.  71 

with  ease  and  dexterity.  Some  of  the  more  wealthy 
are,  to  some  extent,  engaged  in  dealing  in  horses  and 
other  animals,  and  they  are  acknowledged  to  be  very 
shrewd  in  their  business,  which  generally  proves  profit- 
able to  them. 

Another  peculiarity  which  characterizes  the  Los  Git- 
anos,  or  Gipsys  of  Spain,  with  a  few  exceptions,  is  their 
complexion,  it  being  darker  than  the  darkest  of  the 
Spaniards. 

During  our  continuance  in  St.  Antonio  we  witnessed 
much  both  in  the  city,  village  and  country  around,  which 
was  interesting  to  us  all.  Having  laid  in  that  port  four 
months,  and  the  ship  being  ready,  again  put  to  sea,  and 
having  a  favorable  breeze,  steered  our  course  for  the 
Rock  of  Gibraltar.  We  sailed  along  unmolested  until 
we  were  apprized  by  our  mast-headman,  of  two  large  sails, 
apparently  ships  of  war,  which  were  rapidly  coming  up 
with  us.  The  officers  of  the  watch  immediately  brought 
their  spy-glasses  to  bear,  and  soon  reported  them  to  be 
ships-of-the-line.  At  10,  A.  3VI.,  the  strange  sails  were 
within  three  miles  distance,  on  our  weather-beam.  The 
weather  being  clear  and  the  sea  smooth,  we  could  dis- 
tinctly perceive  the  whole  of  their  hulls,  which  loomed 
up  very  high  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

Several  conjectures  now  arose  among  the  crew  as  to 
the  possibility  of  their  being  French  ships  of  war,  escap- 
ing from  Toulon  and  making  their  way  to  the  west  of 
France,  through  the  straits  of  Gibraltar.  Had  this  been 
the  case,  we  must  unavoidably  have  been  taken  and 
made  prisoners  of  war;  but  a  kind  Providence  had 
wisely  ordained  it  otherwise.  These  conjectures  were 
partly  strengthened  by  the  ships'  going  about,  which 
brought  the  other  side  to  our  view,  by  which  we  discov- 
ered that  they  presented  different  aspects,  the  larger  of 
the  two  being  painted  red  on  one  side,  and  white  on  the 
other  ;  red  being  a  favorite  color  in  the  French  navy. 

These  ships  were  now  stretching  across  our  bows  and 
nearing  us  at  every  swell  of  the  sails  and  roll  of  the  sea, 
and  yet  they  had  not  displayed  their  national  flag,  not- 
withstanding ours  had  been  flying  for  some  time.  Soon 
it  was  perceived,  that  the  ships  displayed  English 


72  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

colors  ;  and  the  larger  of  the  two,  exhibited  French  col- 
ors under  the  English,  a  demonstration  of  her  being  a 
captured  vessel. 

The  smaller  of  the  two  ships  now  demanded  our  name 
and  the  place  of  our  destination,  which  demand  was 
promptly  and  satisfactorily  answered.  We  continued 
making  signals  to  each  other,  until  we  had  obtained  the 
desired  information  which  was  cheering  to  our  minds. 
We  had  learned  that  the  smaller  of  the  two  ships  was 
the  Victory,  of  74  guns,  the  very  ship  that  was  foremost 
in  the  battle  of  Trafalgar,  and  which  at  the  time  of  that 
memorable  battle,  bore  aloft  the  flag  of  that  invincible 
and  illustrious  hero  of  the  Nile,  Lord  Nelson.  The 
prize-ship  was  the  Rebolia,  a  French  84,  mounting  90 
guns,  and  manred  by  800  brave  Frenchmen.  The  Re- 
bolia was  a  new  ship,  bound  to  France  and  just  out  of 
Venice,  when  she  fell  in  with  the  Victoiy  and  the  Wea- 
zel.  The  former  mounting  74  guns  and  manned  by  500 
men,  and  the  latter  mounting  20  guns  and  manned  by 
120  men. 

At  the  time  the  fearful  encounter  took  place  between 
these  two  floating  castles,  the  wind  was  light  and  the 
sea  smooth,  which  was  rather  favorable  for  their  work 
of  destruction  and  blood.  The  battle  lasted  for  two 
hours  without  cessation.  The  cannon  incessantly  and 
mutually  roared,  and  swept  as  with  the  besom  of  de- 
struction hundreds  of  hands,  red  with  blood,  to  the  ocean 
of  eternity.* 

The  sea  become  perfectly  calm,  while  the  ships  lay 
motionless  and  ungovernable  on  the  bosom  of  the  ocean 
which  was  crimson  around  them  with  the  blood  of  the 
wounded  and  the  slain.  While  thus  floating,  seeming- 
ly motionless,  without  a  breath  of  air  to  swell  their  sails 
and  yet  striving  to  conquer,  the  little  Weazel,  which 
had  kept  aloof  in  the  commencement  of  the  battle,  now 
swept  under  the  stern  of  the  Rebolia  and  opened  a 


*  Oh  !  that  men  could  see  their  folly  and  become  suffi- 
ciently wise  to  *  cast  their  cannons  into  plow-shares  and 
beat  their  swords  into  pruning  hooks  and  learn  war  no 
more.' 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  73 

raking  and  destructive  fire,  which  the  gallant  French- 
men could  not  withstand.  They  made  every  possible 
effort  to  drive  the  Weazel  from  her  position ,  but  all  in 
vain.  Some  6  or  8  guns  were  brought  to  the  stern  to 
bring  them  to  bear  upon  the  brig,  but  her  stern  being 
very  much  shivered  to  pieces,  afforded  no  shelter  to  her 
men.  The  fire  from  the  brig  was  so  severe  and  de- 
sructive,  that  in  less  than  an  hour,  over  300  brave  French 
mariners  were  swept  away  by  its  fury  into  the  world  of 
spirits. 

There  was  but  one  alternative  for  this  brave  enemy, 
and  that  was,  either  to  sink  or  surrender  to  her  foe.  She 
chose  the  latter  and  became  a  prize  to  the  Victory  and 
Weazel. 

After  the  capture  of  the  Rebolia  it  was  ascertained 
that  she  had  sailed  out  of  Venice  suitably  prepared,  and 
for  the  special  purpose  of  taking  these  two  vessels,  of 
which  she  had  frequent  information,  as  they  were  block- 
ading the  Gulf  of  Venice. 

We  received  this  information  as  these  two  ships 
passed  us,  on  their  passage  to  England.  There,!  sub- 
sequently became  acquainted  with  some  of  the  Victory's 
crew,  and  the  particulars  of  the  action.  We  proceeded 
on  our  passage,  and  arrived  safe  at  Gibraltar  where  we 
came  to  anchor  and  waited  orders  from  the  admiral  to 
proceed  to  the  next  port  of  destination,  which  was 
Cadiz.  But  in  consequence  of  the  French,  who  were 
then  actively  employed  in  besieging  that  great  and  im- 
portant city,  we  were  under  the  necessity  of  lying  in 
this  port  until  the  siege  was  raised  by  the  sallying  out  of 
the  English  garrison,  then  under  the  command  of  Gen- 
eral Graham,  who,  in  concert  with  the  Spanish  General, 
Lapena,  defeated  them  on  the  hights  of  Barossa. 

While  lying  in  this  port,  we  were  under  the  necessity 
of  witnessing  the  frequent  and  furious  attacks  of  the 
French,  on  the  several  towns  along  the  Spanish  coast. 
Tariffa,  near  the  strait  of  Gibraltar,  was  beseiged  and 
assaulted  by  the  French  for  several  days,  but  it  being 
chiefly  defended  by  the  English,  they  were  under  the 
iiecessity  of  retreating  from  it  with  great  loss. 


74  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

Algesiras  was  also  desperately  assaulted  for  a  number 
of  days  and  nights  in  succession,  and  it  was  the  general 
opinion  of  competent  judges,  that  the  French  would 
have  been  successful,  had  not  the  English  garrison, 
from  the  fortress  of  Gibraltar,  extended  to  them  asistr 
ance. 

St.  Roque,  or  Roche,  a  large  town  on  the  plain,  was 
also  assaulted  and  bravely  defended,  by  the  united  ef- 
forts of  the  Spaniards  and  the  English  garrison.  These 
towns,  which  were  visible  to  our  view,  were  attacked  in 
succession,  and  so  complete  and  determined  was  the  pur- 
pose of  the  enemy,  that  for  three  weeks  in  succession,  the 
coast  exhibited,  night  and  day?  a  continued  scene  of 
battle. 

While  lying  in  this  port  we  enjoyed  the  usual  privi- 
lege of  visiting  the  city  every  sabbath,  which  after  be- 
ing so  long  confined  on  board,  was  refreshing  to  the 
body  and  cheering  to  the  spirits.  These  privileges  were 
improved  in  acquiring  a  knowledge  of  this  great  and 
important  fortification. 

We  continued  in  this  port  17  weeks.  My  previous 
acquaintance  with  the  artillery-men  whom  we  had  brought 
out  and  landed  at  this*  place,  proved  beneficial  to  me  in 
my  researches* as  they  were  kind  enough  to  permit  me 
to  enter  and  examine  the  fortifications.  This  was  a  priv- 
ilege, denied  commonly  to  all  excepting  the  naval 
officers. 

The  Rock  of  Gibraltar  is  a  peninsula,  rising  from  a 
level  with  the  sea  to  1,500  feet  above.  Its  extreme 
length  does  not  exceed  10  miles.  The  back  part  of  it 
is  perpendicular  and  inaccessible.  This  part,  notwith- 
standing its  precipitousness  is  densely  inhabited  by  ba- 
boons; and  it  is  authentically  stated,  that  they  do  not 
hesitate  to  attack  a  single  person,  whenever  they  have 
an  opportunity.  This  information  was  given  me  by  the 
artillery  guard,  stationed  at  the  telegraph-house  on  the 
summit  of  the  rock. 

The  front  part  of  the  rock  is  protected  by  a  stone 
rampart  which  is  50  feet  high,  and  extends  from  the 
Mole-head  to  the  Spanish  lines,  at  which  point  is  a  very 
narrow  neck  of  land,  nearly  level  with  the  sea. 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  75 

This  narrow  plain  seems  to  be  the  only  place  easy  of 
access  which  nature  has  provided,  and  this  only  extends 
about  100  yards  from  the  perpendicular  rock  to  the  arm 
of  the  sea.  To  prevent  the  access  of  an  enemy  at  this 
quarter,  they  have  cut  a  wide  and  deep  ditch,  by  which 
they  have  brought  the  sea  against  the  perpendicular 
rock,  which  renders  it  impassible,  without  the  assistance 
of  boats.  To  protect  this  point,  which  is  the  weakest, 
there  is  built  in  front  of  the  Spanish  lines,  strong  and 
massive  batteries,  with  very  deep  and  wide  ditches, 
strengthened  in  front  by  the  arm  of  the  sea,  which  beats 
against  the  perpendicular  rock.  In  this  rock,  which  is 
immediately  over  the  batteries  and  over  the  narrow  arm 
of  the  sea,  are  ceils  excavated  sufficiently  large  to 
contain  a  large  gun  each,  with  a  sufficient  number  of 
men  to  work  them,  and  ammunition  and  sufficient  neces- 
saiies  of  life  to  endure  a  long  siege.  There  are  great 
number  of  cells  of  this  kind  all  over  the  rock  which  com- 
mand all  the  fortifications  below,  and  are  inaccessible  to 
an  enemy.  I  have  often  stood  in  front  of  these  places 
in  the  rock,  viewing  the  advantageous  position  of  the 
guns  wondering  with  admiration,  Ijow  they  could  have 
ever  succeeded  in  getting  those  guns  up  in  such  difficult 
places,  where  there  was  no  passage,  except  a  zigzag 
narrow  foot-path,  cut  in  the  rock,  about  eighteen  inches 
wide. 

On  the  rampart,  which  extends  from  the  mole-head 
to  the  Spanish  lines,  against  whose  base  the  sea  is  con- 
tinually beating,  are  a  great  number  of  guns  with  their 
muzzles  continually  pointing  to  the  sea,  bidding  defiance 
to  the  united  navies  of  the  world. 

The  city  is  built  on  the  declivity  and  occupies  nearly 
one  half  of  its  length  of  the  rock,  from  its  centre  to  the 
Spanish  lines.  It  is  hemmed  in  on  three  sides  by  the 
fortifications  and  its  rear  is  protected  by  the  perpendicu- 
lar rock.  The  city  has  one  principal  street,  running 
parallel  with  the  rock,  from  which,  on  either  side,  branch 
out  a  number  of  short  streets  leading  up  and  down 
from  the  water.  The  houses  are  neatly  built  of  stone 
and  brick,  after  the  Spanish  and  English  style.  Near 
and  above  the  mole-head  is  a  beautiful  village,  which  con- 


76  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

tains  two  large  barracks  and  a  parade  ground  ;  between  it 
and  the  mole-head  is  the  navy  yard. 

While  lying  in  "port,  we  visited  St.  Michael's  cavern, 
situate  on  the  side  of  the  road,  a  short  distance  from  the 
telegraph-house,  which  crowns  the  summit  of  the  mount. 
A  party  of  us.  having  agreed  to  visit  the  ancient  habita- 
tion of  the  saint,  proceeded  on  our  journey,  immediately 
after  our  landing,  toward  the  summit  of  the  mount. 
On  our  arrival  at  the  cavern,  we  entered  its  ancient  and 
venerable  mouth,  and  descended  into  a  large  space  about 
50  feet  in  diameter  and  25  feet  in  hight.  Its  sides, 
from  which  projected  a  hundred  ragged  rocks,  favored 
the  form  of  a  quarter  of  a  circle.  Its  top  was  decorated 
with  a  great  number  of  crystals,  hanging  in  clusters, 
which  resembled  bunches  of  grapes  on  the  vine.  It 
was  very  damp,  caused  by  the  continual  dropping  of 
water  from  above,  which  formed  several  small  pools. 
After  viewing  this  spacious  part  of  the  cavern,  we  pro- 
ceeded down  the  declivity,  in  the  back  part  of  the  rock, 
passing  and  crossing  small  pools  of  water*  as  we  went, 
groveling  in  (he  Tdark,  while  the  cool  drops  trick- 
ling from  above,  made  us  very  uncomfortable.  More 
than  once,  I  wished  myself  out  of  the  place.  But,  not- 
withstanding difficulties,  we  descended  until  we  came  to 
a  pool  of  water,  which  completely  arrested  our  progress 
and  around  which  we  could  find  no  passage  in  conse- 
quence of  the  deficiency  of  light. 

By  this  time  we  had  proceeded  down  the  declivity, 
between  four  and  five  hundred  feet  from  the  mouth  of 
the  cavern  ;  but  finding  our  progress  arrested,  we  com- 
menced retracing  our  steps  and  soon  regained  the  large 
room  of  the  cavern,  where  some  of  our  party  amused 
themselves,  for  a  short  time,  in  knocking  off  pieces  of 
concealed  stone,  which  they  considered  to  be  valuable, 
as  curiosties,  to  take  home. 

As  we  came  out  of  the  cavern  our  attention  was  at- 
tracted on  our  right  hand  by  two  large  flat  stones  which 
were  bedded  in  the  ground  close  upon  the  ridge  of  the 
mountain.  We  proceeded  to  them  to  satisfy  our  curiosi- 
ty, but  on  approaching  them,  to  our  surprise,  we  discov^ 
eied  that  their  surfaces  were  adorned  with  ancient  wri- 


OF    THOMAS    W.  SMITH.  77 

ting,  which  bore  not  the  least  resemblance  to  our  modern 
chirography.  It  is  the  opinion  of  the  learned  that  these 
stones  must  have  been  placed  there  some  hundreds  of 
years  ago,  but  by  whom  or  for  what  particular  purpose 
no  one  that  1  have  ever  discoursed  with  on  the  subject 
has  been  able  to  give  me  any  satisfactory  information. 
There  are,  however,  some  conjectures  in  relation  to  them. 
Some  suppose  that  the  remains  of  the  saint  who  inhab- 
ited this  retired  spot  must  have  been  interred  there. 
Others  imagine  that  they  are  some  old  Jewish  tables, 
and  others  that  they  are  some  ancient  Moorish  inscrip- 
tions. In  the  midst  of  these  multifarious  conjectures,  I 
have  been  left  in  total  ignorance  about  the  truth  and  my 
opinion  is  that  I  shall  ever  remain  so. 

From  the  Cavern  we  proceeded  along  the  ridge  to  the 
summit  of  the  mount,  at  which  we  soon  arrived  and  were 
met  by  the  artillery-men  who  courteously  invited  us 
in  the  house  to  rest  our  wearied  limbs,  after  which  we 
examined  a  large  flat  place  on  which  were  two  very  large 
guns,  and  how  they  could  have  succeeded  in  getting 
these  guns  to  the  summit  of  the  mount,  considering 
the  difficulty  of  the  road,  was  a  matter  of  surprise  to 
me.  While  I  stood  by  the  guns,  viewing  with  admi- 
ration the  surrounding  scene  two  ships  of  the  line,  which 
were  lying  close  in  to  the  Mole-head,  particularly  at- 
tracted my  attention  in  consequence  of  their  small  ap- 
pearance at  that  distance  beneath  us.  This  led  me  to 
conceive  the  power  of  the  two  guns  at  their  elevated 
and  advantageous  position  and  the  effect  which  the  shot 
fired  from  them  must  necessarily  produce  on  the  shipping 
beneath. 

We  took  leave  of  our  friends  and  proceeded  down 
the  declivity  by  a  narrow  path  which  led  us  down  to  the 
Moorish  castle,  situated  in  the  rear  and  above  the  city. 
The  castle  bears  no  resemblance  to  a  castle  properly 
so  called,  but  is  merely  a  long  stone  building,  one  story 
high  with  many  windows  which  were  closed  by  shut- 
ters. Why  this  building  has  acquired  the  name  of  a 
castle,  is  more  than  I  can  define.  The  building  was 
not  at  that  time  occupied  for  any  purpose,  neither  have 
I  been  able  to  learn  that  it  ever  was  by  the  English  or 


78  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

the  Spaniards  before  them.  It  was  said  that  the  Moors 
paid  a  yearly  tribute  to  the  English  to  keep  the  building 
shut  up,  but  for  what  purpose  this  was  done,  if  it  ever 
was  done,  is  more  than  I  can  account  for,  unless  it 
was  to  render  it  memorial  of  their  ancient  trophies  in 
Spain. 

On  the  following  Sabbath  we  again  resumed  our  in- 
vestigation of  the  cavern.  Accordingly  having  landed 
at  the  Mole-head  we  commenced  our  ascension  toward 
the  cavern  to  which  we  arrived  at  10  A.  M.  After 
resting  awhile  from  the  fatigue  of  our  journey  we  made 
suitable  preparations  for  our  descent.  Having  lit  our 
candles  and  secured  them  in  the  lanterns  with  which  we 
were  provided,  we  descended  into  the  once  recluse  re- 
treat of  the  departed  saint.  We  followed  the  leaders  of 
the  party  round  crooks  and  turnings  and  through  small 
pools  of  water  collected  by  the  constant  droppings  from 
above.  We  proceeded  in  this  manner  for  some  time 
constantly  descending  toward  the  sea.  After  proceed- 
ing a  considerable  distance,  it  was  concluded  by  our 
guides,  as  our  lights  had  become  dim  in  consequence  of 
the  deadness  the  air,  it  was  best  to  retrace  our  steps,  as 
it  was  probably  dangerous  to  proceed  any  farther. 

It  had  been  the  original  design  of  the  party  to  have 
gone  as  far  into  the  cavern  as  the  British  officer,  who 
it  tfas  said  left  his  gold  watch  here  as  an  enticement  and 
reward  for  any  person  who  should  venture  as  far  as  he 
had  done ;  but  we  were  frustrated  in  our^  designs  and 
were  under  the  necessity  of  relinquishing  our  enterprise 
and  returning  without  our  anticipated  prize. 

We  retraced  our  steps  to  the  mouth  of  the  cavern, 
where  we  gladly  arrived  to  enjoy  the  fresh  reviving  air. 
We  then  descended  toward  the  Spanish  lines,  and  after 
luxuriously  enjoying  a  saltwater  bath,  we  returned 
through  the  city  to  our  ship. 

It  was  now  seventeen  weeks  since  we  first  cast  anchor 
in  the  bay  of  Gibraltar  near  the  Mole-head,  during 
which  time  we  had  patiently  waited  the  raising  of  the 
siege  of  Cadiz,  our  destined  port.  The  seige  now  be- 
ing raised,  we  proceeded  to  Cadiz  where  we  arrived  and 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  79 

proceeded  to  Carraques  or  Creeks  of  Cadiz  to  take  in 
great  brass  guns  and  anchors  to  convey  to  England. 

Las  Carraque  or  Creeks  of  Cadiz  are  four  in  num- 
ber, leading  out  of  the  entrance  of  the  harbor  op- 
posite to  the  Castle  of  Pantilles  which  is  a  strong  and 
beautiful  fortification  situated  on  the  island  of  Leon  and 
opposite  to  the  island  of  St.  Pedro  or  Peter. 

Having  sailed  into  the  Carraque  we  expeditiously 
commenced  taking  in  our  cargo,  which  was  brought  to 
us  by  small  vessels.  During  our  stay  in  the  Carraque 
we  were  deprived  of  the  usual  privilege  of  visiting  the 
shore,  which  was  in  consequence  of  being  situated  at  a 
gre;U  distance  from  the  towns. 

Having  finished  taking  in  our  cargo,  which  was  ac- 
complished in  four  weeks,  we  immediately  sailed  for 
England  in  charge  of  a  small  convoy  of  six  transports. 
Our  departure  for  England  from  the  island  of  Leon,  pro- 
duced in  some  home-longing  minds,  a  joyful  anticipation 
of  a  re-union  with  their  relatives  and  friends  after  the 
absence  of  a  year.  We  proceeded  on  our  passage  with 
a  favorable  breeze  until  we  arrived  in  sight  of  the  mouth 
of  the  river  Ta^us,  off  which  we  perceived  several  vessels 
sailing  out;  and  as  we  were  sailing  across  each  other, 
we  soon  approached  sufficiently  near  to  discern  each  na- 
tional flag.  Our  crew  were  somewhat  surprised  at  the 
display  of  two  American  flags  on  board  of  two  large 
ships  near  us.  The  exhibition  of  these  flags  produced 
a  momentary  hilarity  among  the  crew,  thinking  that  we 
should  secure  these  two  vessels  as  our  lawful  prize,  be- 
ing then  engaged  in  an  unnatural  war  with  America. 

On  perceiving  the  American  flag  so  boldly  flying  near 
us  our  captain  immediately  sent  a  boat  on  board  to  re- 
connoitre the  vessels,  and  after  a  thorough  examination 
of  them  returned  to  the  ship  bringing  the  news  that 
they  were  licensed  ships  and  therefore  they  were  per- 
mitted to  pass  on  unmolested. 

We  continued  on  our  passage  toward  home,  amid 
prevalent  light  winds  and  calms,  which  lengthened  out 
our  passage  beyond  the  calculation  and  expectation  of 
our  captain,  who  w&s  apprehensive  of  making  a  long 
passage.  Being  rather  scant  of  water,  he  deemed  it  ad- 


80  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

visable  to  put  the  crew  on  an  allowance,  sufficient  for 
the  actual  demands  of  nature,  had  every  person  receiv- 
ed his  just  proportion  ;  but  this  was  not  generally  the 
case.  The  water  being  distributed  by  messes,  every  in- 
dividual belonging  to  the  mess,  had  unlimited  access  to 
it,  in  consequence  of  which,  those  who  indulged  their 
appetites  more  than  usual  with  salt  beef,  became  thirs- 
ty, and  having;  access  to  the  water,  drank  a  double  al- 
lowance. Others  indulged  in  drinking  a  little  more  grog 
than  their  proper  allowance, which  also  created  an  undue 
degree  of  thirst  ;  and  they  also,  in  their  turn,  would 
have  recourse  to  the  water,  and  in  this  manner  a  great 
deal  of  suffering  was  inflicted,  which  might  have  been 
prevented.  My  sufferings  on  this  occasion  were  intol- 
erable ;  being  a  small  boy,  it  was  with  difficulty  that  I 
could  at  any  time  obtain  a  half  pint ;  and  very  many 
times  I  obtained  none  at  all. 

On  one  occasion  when  I  was  thus  suffering  with  a 
severe  thirst,  it  being  about  10  o'clock,  P.  M.,  some  of 
the  men,  who  were  alike  sufferers  with  me,  contrived  to 
get  some  water,  but  where  and  how  they  got  it,  yet  re- 
mains a  mystery  to  me.  The  night  being  very  dark,  it 
was  by  mere  accident  that  I  discovered  them,  lying 
down  by  the  booms  and  secretly  indulging  their  refresh- 
ing draught,  I  sat  down  by  one  of  them,  who  was  the 
cooper  of  the  ship  and  a  messmate  of  mine,  and  to  whom 
I  used  to  give  my  allowance  of  grog,  and  asked  him  to 
give  me  some  water,  which  he  did,  after  they  had  fully 
satisfied  their  own  thirst.  For  this  favor  I  was  very 
grateful,  as  it  revived  my  spirits,  although  it  was  no 
more  than  a  half  pint,  and  that  so  muddy  that  the  beasts 
of  the  field  would  have  rejected  it.  .  A  few  days  after 
this,  being  thirsty,  I  went  to  the  keg  to  obtain  some 
water,  but  found  it  empty,  and  having  no  means  by 
which  to  obtain  any,  I  suffered  intolerably  during  the 
greater  part  of  the  day.  At  8  o'clock,  P.  M.  so  severe 
was  my  thirst  that  I  could  no  longer  resist  it.  I  then 
went  into. the  ship's  head  and  drew  a  pail  of  salt-water, 
of  whi^h  I  drank, — I  think  without  any  exaggeration — 
two  pints.  This  gave  me  some  relief  from  my  suffering 
condition,  although  I  did  not  relish  the  draught,  which 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  81 

laid  heavy  on  rny  stomach  for  some  time.  We  contin- 
ued on  our  passage,  and  after  the  lapse  of  seven  weeks, 
we  arrived  and  cast  anchor  at  Spithead  and  waited  or- 
ders from  the  admiral  to  proceed  to  our  destined- port,  to 
deliver  our  cargo. 

On  the  day  following  our  arrival,  we  received  orders 
to  proceed  to  Chatham,  on  the  river  Medway.  The 
order  was  accompanied  by  100  prisoners  of  war,  25  of 
which  were  Russians,  and  75  Americans  who  were  the 
crew  of  a  privateer  which  had  been  taken  on  the  skirts 
of  the  Bay  of  Biscay.  Among  the  number  of  this  crew 
were  but  6  or  8  white  persons,  with  the  exception  o 
the  officers,  who  \yere  all  white. 

As  1  had  heard  so  much  about  the  American  war,  and 
never  had  seen  any  Americans  before,  my  attention  was 
very  much  attracted  by  them,  seeing  that  the  most  ot 
them  were  colored  men,  a  sight  quite  novel  to  me,  hav- 
ing never  before  seen  more  than  half  a  dozen  blacks  ;  I 
concluded  that  white  men  must  have  been  scarce  in 
America,  when  they  sent  that  privateer  to  our  coast. 
But  I  was  struck  with  admiration,  when  I  heard  them 
talking  as  good  English  as  those  of  the  middle  counties 
in  England.  1  had  previously  understood  that  the 
American  people  descended  from  the  English  ;  but  I 
was  at  a  loss  to  know  how  those  colored  men  came  in 
America  and  why  they  had  not  a  language  of  their  own. 
These  few  reflections  occupied  my  mind  while  1  stood 
before  them  examining  their  complexion  and  features, 
which  interested  me  much.  At  last  I  ventured  to  ques- 
tion one  of  lighter  complexion  than  the  others,  a  young 
mulatto,  who  appeared  more  attractive  and  social  than 
the  others.  It  was  from  him  that  I  learned  the  manner 
of  their  capture. 

We  sailed  with  a  small  convoy,  and  being  favored 
with  a  leading  wipcl  we  arrived  ofFBeachy-head  where 
the  wind  headed  ds  off  the  land.  We  had  not  been  on 
this  tack  more  than  half  an  hour,  when  the  officer  of  the 
watch  reported  to  the  captain  a  square-rigged  vessel 
bearing  down  on  us.  Our  captain  immediately  came  on 
deck  and  commanded  the  gunner  to  beat  all  hands  to 
quarters.  This  well  known  sound  thundering  in  the 
11 


82  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

ears  of  old  tars  soon  brought  hammocks  and  tables  down 
to  the  lower  deck,  and  in  less  than  ten  minutes  every 
man  was  to  his  post  and  the  ship  ready  for  action.  Sev- 
eral night-signals  were  made  to  ascertain  what  she  was, 
but  to  these  there  was  no  answer,  which  confirmed  the 
prevalent  opinion  of  her  being  a  French  vessel. 

The  strange  sail  still  bearing  down  upon  our  beam 
and  within  hail,  our  captain  hailed  her  several  times, 
but  received  no  answer.  The  vessel  was  now  within 
three  times  her  length,  on  our  weather-beam,  and  ap- 
peared to  be  a  large  sloop-of-war  brig.  Our  captain, 
standing  on  the  poop-deck,  cried  out,  through  the  speak- 
ing-trumpet, '  Stand  by  your  guns ;  take  aim!'  '  Stand  by 
your  weather  braces  ;  heave  all  a-back,'  which  was  in- 
stantly done.  This  he  did  to  give  our  ship  stern-way, 
in  order  to  bring  the  vessel  foul  of  us,  and  thus  deprive 
her  of  crossing  our  stern  and  raking  us,  if  she  were  an 
enemy.  The  captain  of  the  brig,  perceiving  the  imme- 
diate danger,  cried  out  to  the  helmsman  f  port  your 
helm ! !' 

Our  captain  at  the  same  time  gave  the  word  of  com- 
mand, (  fire  !'  Fortunately  for  us  and  them,  our  offic- 
ers disobeyed  the  word  of  command,  they  having  dis- 
tinctly heard  the  commanding  officer  of  the  other  vessel 
give  the  wora1  of  command  in  plain  English,  and  justly 
concluded  that  she  was  an  English  vessel,  commanded 
by  some  obstinate  upstart,  and  therefore  withheld  their 
fire  ;  for  which  act  they  highly  deserved  commenda- 
tion, which  was  afterwards  bestowed  upon  them.  The 
vessel  was  so  near  to  us  that  she  could  scarcely  avoid 
the  danger  without  damage.  In  the  attempt  to  get 
clear,  she  carried  away  her  flying  jib-boom,  which  caught 
our  quarter  gallery.  As  the  brig  passed  our  stern,  our 
captain  spoke  to  her  commander  with  great  severity, 
and  added,  that  he  would  report  him  to  the  admiral,  on 
our  arrival  at  the  Downs,  for  his  unjustifiable  conduct. 

I  have  merely  stated  the  circumstance  as  it  occurred, 
to  exhibit  to  the  reader  the  imminent  danger  to  which 
haughty  and  unthinking  men  expose  not  only  their  own 
lives,  but  those  of  others,  which  are  intrusted  to  their 
care.  This  captain  might  have  well  avoided  all  the 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  83 

danger  to  which  he  unwittingly  exposed  the  lives  of  his 
crew,  if  he  had  only  been  willing  to  comply  with  the 
dictates  of  reason;  which  was,  to  have  answered  our 
signals. 

We  arrived  in  the  Downs  on  the  following  day  and 
laid  there  one  day  and  then  proceeded  toward  the  riv- 
er Medway,  where  we  arrived  in  24  hours — from  thence 
to  Chillicum  ridge,  where  we  came  to  anchor  and  sent 
the  prisoners  to  the  prison-ships  which  laid  at  this  ridge. 
We  then  proceeded  to  Chatham  to  discharge  our  cargo. 
Having  arrived  there,  we  discharged  three-fourths  of  the 
ship's  crew,  who  were  hired  for  the  voyage,  and  the 
remaining  fourth,  which  consisted  of  the  officers,  boys, 
and  a  number  of  long-servitude  men,  were  put  on  board 
of  a  hulk  to  pass  away  the  winter.  Our  chief  employ- 
ment during  the  winter,  consisted  in  keeping  the  ship 
clean,  and  occasionally  in  rowing  the  officers  to  and  from 
the  shore. 

Our  captain  and  his  lady,  after  passing  the  forepart  of 
the  winter  on  board,  took  a  journey  to  Scotland,  his  na- 
tjye  land,  and  returned  early  in  the  spring,  to  make  pre- 
parations to  proceed  on  another  voyage. 
j*^^ras  one  day  surprised  by  the  captain's  cabin  boy, 
while  U\yds  deeply  engaged  on  the  lower  deck,  playing 
at  marbles,  with  the  unpleasant  news,  that  I  was  not 
going  in  the  ship  the  next  voyage.  I  asked  him  how 
me  knew.  His  reply  was,  that  he  had  overheard  the 
captain  and  his  lady's  conversation,  which  amounted  to 
that.  I  was  at  a  loss  to  know  the  reason  why  1  should 
not  be  permitted  to  continue  in  the  ship,  being  uncon- 
scious of  having  committed  any  act  which  would  justify 
the  captain  in  my  dismissal.  My  mind  became  much 
depressed  at  this  unwelcome  news,  and  the  more  I 
thought  of  the  subject  the  more  it  affected  me  ;  and  why 
should  it  not  ?  I  was  a  destitute  child,  homeless,  and 
friendless  ;  the  ship  to  which  1  was  attached,  was  my 
home ;  deprived  of  this  source  of  subsistence,  I  should 
be  exposed  to  the  unkindness  of  a  selfish  world. 

In  the  afternoon,  the  same  boy  informed  me  that  the 
captain  required  my  immediate  presence.  I  complied 
with  the  request,  and  entered  the  great  cabin  and  stood 


84  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

trembling  and  motionless  before  the  captain  and  hislady. 
Lady  Ware  instantly  perceived  the  agitation  of  my  mind, 
and  smilingly  said  ;  f  do  not  be  alarmed,  we  are  not  go- 
ing to  injure  you  in  any  respect.'  l  We  have  sent  for 
you,'  continued  she,  *  to  ascertain  whether  you  would  be 
willing  to  live  with  me  in  my  house  at  Rochester.  If 
you  will,  I  will  dress  you  in  a  handsome  livery  and  send 
you  to  school  every  day.'  At  this  kind  and  unexpect- 
ed offer,  a  visible  glow  of  gratification  overshadowed  my 
countenance.  I  immediately  answered  that  I  was  willing 
to  serve  her  according  to  the  best  of  my  ability. 

Having  given  my  consent  to  serve  her,  I  was  then 
advised  by  captain  Ware  to  be  in  readiness  to  go  on 
shore  the  following  day. 

The  next  morning  the  green  cutter  was  ordered  along 
side  to  take  the  captain's  lady  and  baggage ;  and  to  be 
in  readiness  to  put  them  on  shore. 

I  stood  near  the  gang-way  in  readiness  to  be  call- 
ed upon  ;  but  in  this  I  was  disappointed.  The  captain 
and  his  lady  went  over  the  side,  without  saying  a  word 
to  me.  I  was  surprised  at  this,  and  did  not  know 
what  to  make  of  it,  but  was  soon  informed  by  gn^e'^f 
the  quarter-masters  who  was  a  particular  friend  of  mine, 
of  the  whole  mystery,  which  was  this  :  Having  many 
months  before  weighed  anchor  at  the  Nore  arid"  made 
sail  on  the  ship,  they  immediately  piped  all  hands  to 
breakfast.  The  mess  to  which  I  belonged  did  not  re- 
ceive their  allowance,  as  soon  as  it  was  expected  by 
them  in  consequence  of  the  neglect  of  the  mess  cook, 
whose  duty  it  was  to  have  every  thing  on  the  table 
in  readiness  for  the  men,  for  which  they  are  excused 
from  duty  that  day. 

At  this  time,  when  every  thing  Ivas  in  a  bustle,  as  I 
was  going  down  the  fore-ladder  in  the  midst  of  the  crowd, 
who  should  I  meet  wittj,  but  an  old  Scotchman,  who 
was  a  messmate  of  m\r\e.  He  inquired  of  me  why  I 
had  not  gone  for  the  cocoa,  a  thing  which  I  had  never 
been  requested  to  do  before.  I  made  no  reply,  not 
knowing  what  to  say.  At  this  he  commenced  swearing, 
and  beating  me,  and  said  that  I  should  not  have  any- 
thing to  eat  in  the  mess.  I  got  clear  of  him  as  soon 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  85 

as  possible,  very  much  terrified  and  grieved  at  this  un- 
deserved treatment. 

This  was  the  first  time  that  I  had  been  abused  since 
my  departure  from  Mr.  Miles,  and  I  was  so  much  affec- 
ted by  it  that  I  resolved  at  the  time  to  fulfil  his  threat, 
consequently  I  did  not  eat  any  thing  more  in  the  mess. 
Some  how  or  other  the  affair  became  known  to  the  sec- 
ond master,  but  not  in  its  true  light.  He  was  informed 
that  I  had  taken  the  sulks  and  would  not  eat  any  thing, 
which  was  not  strictly  true.  The  consequence  of  this 
misrepresentation  was  that  the  second  master  being  in- 
formed that  lady  Ware  had  made  a  choice  of  me  to  live 
with  her,informed  captain  Ware  of  this  occu^ence,  which 
had  taken  place  several  months  before.  In  informing 
the  captain  lie  represented  me  as  not  being  a  suitable 
boy  for  her  choice  in  consequence  of  my  irritable  dispo- 
only  Adorable  opportunity  ever  offer- 
educ 


ed  me  of  acquiring  an  education    was  frustrated   by  de- 
signing and  malicious  men. 

o          o 

It  is  impossible  adequately  to  conceive  of  the  magni- 
tude ol  evil  resulting  from  a  misrepresentation  of  the 
truih.  Sensible  of  the  irreparable  injury  inflicted  on 
me,  I  have  subsequently  and  frequently  looked  back  to 
that  unfortunate  period  with  tears  in  my  eyes. 

Having  passed  the  winter  merrily  and  comfortably  on 
board  the  hulk,  and  the  ship  having  received  the  neces- 
sary repairs  to  enable  her  to  proceed  on  another  voyage, 
she  was  again  brought  along  side  of  the  hulk  to  refit  for 
the  ensuing;  voyage. 

The  ship  having  refitted  and  taken  in  her  cargo  she 
was  then  ready  to  be  manned.  The  hired  part  of  the 
crew  was  now  shipped  and  the  ship  proceeded  to  Ports- 
mouth on  her  intended  voyage,  where  we  arrived  and 
waited  for  a  convoy  to  proceed  to  our  destined  port, 
which  was  Malta.  This  is  an  island  situated  in  the 
Mediterranean,  in  possession  of  the  English. 


86  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Departure  from  England ;  encounters  a  gale  in  the  bay  of  Bis- 
cay ;  dangerous  position  off  Cape  Palos ;  turtle  soup ;  water 
spouts  amid  the  convoy  ;  makes  the  island  of  Malta ;  descrip- 
tion of  the  place  where  St.  Paul  was  wrecked ;  enters  the  harbor  ; 
description  of  Malta  and  its  harbor;  position  of  the  city  of  St. 
John  and  the  town  of  Valetta ;  description  of  St.  John's  church ; 
John  the  Baptist's  skull ;  the  embalmed  bodies  in  the  Vaults";  the 
Queen's  Gajpden  ;  horrible  murder  ;  departure  from  Malta  ;  ar- 
rival at  Gibraltar  ;  departure  for  England  with_a  convoy  ;  prep- 
aration for  action  ;  chases  the  supposed  enemy  ;  arrival  at  Ports- 
mouth. 

FOURTH   VOYAGE. 

The  convoy  being  now  in  readiness  to  sail,  tbe  Com- 
modore's ship,  the  Royal  Sovereign,  made  the  signal  for 
sea  which  was  immediately  obeyed  by  weighing  anchors 
and  setting  sail.  We  steered  for  the  Mediterranean  with 
a  convoy  of  12  sail  of  troop-ships  and  transports  which 
were  bound,  some  to  Portugal  and  others  to  Spain.  The 
passage  was  pleasant  until  we  came  into  the  border 
of  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  where  we  encountered  a  most 
severe  gale  of  wind,  which  continued  to  harass  us  for 
three  successive  days.  Hitherto  I  had  been  a  stranger 
to  the  dangers  and  sufferings  arising  from  the  effects 
produced  by  a  severe  gale  of  wind.  I  had  experienced 
the  sufferings  of  a  shipwreck  and  had  embraced  an  idea 
when  1  joined  this  great  ship,  that  it  would  be  impossi- 
ble for  the  sea  to  produce  any  serious  effect  upon  it,  but 
found  by  sad  experience  that  I  had  been  deceived  in 
this.  I  soon  ascertained  that  our  great  ship,  as  large  as 
she  was,  was  not  a  rampart  against  the  mighty  rolling 
billows.  I  also  perceived  that  the  small  vessels  of  the 
convoy  made  better  weather  than  the  larger.  This  is 
owing  to  the  heavy  weight  of  metal  which  the  larger 
ships  carry  above  water,  which  is  the  cause  of  their  roll- 
ing and  pitching  so  heavily  in  a  gale  of  wind.  Howev- 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  87 

er,  there  was  no  serious  injury  received  by  any  of  the 
ships  arising  from  the  severity  of  the  gale  excepting  the 
Royal  Sovereign,  which  sprung  her  bowsprit. 

The  wind  having  abated  its  fury  and  having  become 
favorable,  we  again  spread  our  lofty  sails  to  the  pleasant 
breeze,  which  in  a  few  days  led  us  through  the  straits  of 
Gibraltar  into  the  Mediterranean  Sea.  We  proceeded 
on  our  voyage  with  cheerful  hearts,  favored  with  a  steady 
breeze,  until  we  arrived  near  the  Bay  of  Malaga,  where 
our  wind  forsook  us  and  left  us  in  a  calm  to  be  driven 
by  the  current  to  and  fro  at  its  will.  Being  becalmed 
for  several  days,  and  having  no  controling  power  over 
the  ship  the  current  drove  us  close  in  to  the  Spanish 
main  and  near  Cape  Palos.  We  drifted  round  the  cape 
into  the  elbow  of  the  land  formed  by  the  cape,  within  a 
mile  or  two  of  the  shore,  but  some  of  the  small  ships 
were  a  great  deal  nearer.  While  we  were  driving  about 
in  this  perilous  condition,  not  knowing  what  the  ultimate 
result  would  be,  our  officers  spied  two  ship-boats  in  shore 
of  us  engaged  in  taking  sea-turtle.  Our  captain  imme- 
diately ordered  two  boats  lowered  down  and  despatched 
in  quest  of  these,  then  to  me,  unknown  animals.  In  the 
afternoon  the  boats  returned  to  the  ship  laden  with 
very  large  turtles.  They  were  soon  discharged  and 
hoisted  to  their  places. 

Among  the  English  people  turtle-soup  is  considered 
one  of  the  richest  dishes.  A  number  of  turtles  were 
slaughtered  and  dressed  to  make  soup.  After  the  sun 
had  descended,  it  was  served  to  the  several  messes. 
This  refreshment  was  considered  a  mark  of  the  captain's 
favor  to  the  crew. 

The  soup  having  been  dispensed  to  all,  many  of  the 
crew  became  noisily  merry,  having  been  making  them- 
selves a  little  too  free  with  old  Jamaica.  This  merri- 
ment begun  to  increase  in  one  of  the  messes,  and  I  be- 
ing near  at  hand  my  natural  curiosity  attracted  me  to  pass 
that  way  to  ascertain  what  was  going  on,  when  of  a  sud- 
den, as  I  was  in  the  act  of  passing,  I  received  a  tremen- 
dous stunning  blow  on  the  side  of  rny  head,  which  caus- 
ed me  to  reel  several  times  before  1  could  recover  my- 
self to  make  my  escape.  Having  recovered  my  feet  I 


88  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

made  my  way  good  to  the  after  part  of  the  cabin,  roar- 
ing and  bleeding  like  a  gored  bull.  The  noise  soon 
brought  the  doctor  and  some  of  the  officers  to  my  assis- 
tance, who  took  me  into  the  dispensary  to  examine  and 
dress  my  head,  while  some  of  the  officers  hastened  to 
the  scene  of  confusion  to  ascertain  the  cause  of  this  un- 
warrantable deed.  The  master's  mate  soon  returned 
having  ascertained  from  the  men  who  appeared  to  be 
very  penitent  that  it  was  an  accident,  so  the  matter  rest- 
ed. The  wound  on  the  side  of  my  head  was  an  inch 
long  and  was  inflicted  with  a  large  quart  bowl  which 
broke  in  five  or  six  pieces.  Had  the  wound  been  inflic- 
ted three  inches  forward  it  must  inevitably  have  proved 
fatal.  This  frivolous  accident,  probably  so  considered 
by  the  reader,  has  taught  me  a  lesson  that  time  cannot 
obliterate  from  my  mind. 

In  the  evening  a  light  land  breeze  sprung  up  which 
carried  us  a  few  miles  farther  off  land,  and  there  again 
left  us  to  the  mercy  of  the  current.  At  ten  o'clock  A. 
M.,  a  number  of  water  spouts  were  visible  around  us. 
At  12,  some  of  them  were  so  near  that  we  became 
somewhat  alarmed  for  the  safety  of  some  of  the  ves- 
sels. At  *2,  P.  M.,  a  spout  sprung  up  in  the  rnidst 
of  the  vessels  and  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  us. 
The  most  of  the  squadron  were  not  more  than  half  that 
distance  from  it.  But  there  were  two  ships  which  were 
so  near  as  tobein  imminent  danger.  Being  in  this  peri- 
lous condition  and  the  vessels  still  continuing  to  draw 
nearer,  increasing  the  danger  every  moment,  they  saw  but 
one  way  of  escaping,  and  that  was  the  breaking  of  the 
spout  by  firing  cannon  balls  through,  it  which  was 
about  150  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Two  ships 
opened  a  fire  into  the  spout  and  continued  it  without  re- 
laxation until  their  efforts  were  crowned  with  the  desired 
success.  We  were  thus  saved  from  a  watery  grave. 

Towards  evening  we  were  favored  with  a  gentle  breeze 
which  once  more  gave  motion  to  the  ship  by  which  she 
became  governable.  We  continued  on  our  passage,  fa- 
vored with  a  fine  wind,  which  soon  brought  us  in  sight 
of  the  Isle  of  Sicily,  a  large  and  beautiful  isle  situated 
about  thirty  or  forty  miles  to  the  north  of  Malta.  Ear- 


OF    THOMAS     W.    SMITH.  89 

Jy  on  the  following  morning  we  came  within  sight  of  the 
west  end  of  Malta  which  is  a  small  island  off  the  end 
of  the  main  Island  of  Malta.  Having  a  good  breeze  we 
soon  approached  near  the  land  along  which  we  sailed, 
admiring  its  romantic  beauty.  As  we  passed  the  little 
sound  which  separates  the  two  isles,  the  prospect  drew 
the  attention  of  most  of  the  crew  on  that  side  of  the  ship 
next  to  the  shore.  Being  anxious  to  ascertain  the  cause 
which  led  to  this  attraction  I  immediately  made 
inquiry,  and  was  informed  that  they  were  looking 
at  the  very  spot  where  St.  Paul  was  shipwrecked.  I 
had  previously  been  informed  that  Malta  was  the  island 
on  which  this  indefatigable,  early  pioneer  of  Christianity 
had  been  shipwrecked,  but  did  not,  at  that  time,  antici- 
pate the  privilege  of  viewing  the  spot  where  he  had  ac- 
tually been  wrecked.  I  viewed  the  perilous  spot ;  it  is 
situated  on  thn  south  end  of  the  island,  it  is  a  low  and 
black  iron-bound  shore,  which  bore  no  trace  of  having 
ever  been  visited  by  any  human  being,  it  being  scarcely 
suitable  for  a  sea-gull  to  put  its  foot  upon. 

We  sailed  by  this  ever  memorable  spot,  and  slowly 
preceded  with  a  favorable  breeze  toward^  the  harbor  at 
which  we  arrived  early  in  the  afternoon  and  came 
to  anchor  at  the  entrance  of  the  middle  harbor.  On 
the  following  day,  having  previously  received  orders,  we 
passed  up  the  middle-branch  toward  the  arsenal,  where 
we  came  to  an  anchor  to  discharge  our  cargo  and  to  take 
in  another  for  England.  During  our  continuance  at  this 
place,  which  was  some  months,  we  were  abundantly  in- 
dulged with  permission  to  visit  the  city  of  St.  John 
and  the  town  of  Valetta. 

Malta  is  a  name  familiar  to  the  Christian  world,  as 
being  the  name  of  a  barbarious  island,  on  which  the 
great  apostle  was  ship-wrecked  while  on  ship-board, 
bound  to  Rome  to  be  tried  before  Caesar  for  the  faith 
once  delivered  to  the  saints.  Malta  was  independent 
until  Bonaparte  took  possession  of  it  while  on  his  pas- 
sage to  invade  Egypt.  Shortly  after  it  was  taken  by  the 
English  who  still  hold  possession  of  it.  The  island  may 
with  propriety  be  denominated  a  barren  rock,  being  of 
itself  incapable  of  producing  a  sufficiency  for  the  con- 
12 


90  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

sumption  of  its  population.  The  harbor  of  Malta  is 
scarcely  to  be  surpassed  by  any  in  the  Mediterranean 
for  its  adaptation  for  shipping,  beauty,  and  its  fortifications 
at  its  entrance.  On  the  right  is  a  massive  rock  rising 
gradually  to  the  elevation  of  250  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  the  summit  of  which  is  crowned  with  the  city 
of  St.  John,  which  extends  along  the  harbor  about  a 
mile  in  length.  On  the  declivity  of  this  rock  and  at  a 
distance  from  each  other  are  three  high  and  terrific 
stone  walls,  surmounted  with  cannons  sufficient  to  repel 
almost  any  enemy.  On  the  opposite  side  and  near  Bo- 
naparte's house  are  other  fortifications  also  situated  on 
high  rocks  which  likewise  impose  a  serious  impediment 
to  an  enemy,  as  he  has  to  receive  the  fire  from  both  for-  „ 
tifications  at  once.  Asa  ship  enters  the  harbor,  she 
opens  on  the  left  hand  a  long  arm  from  two  to  three 
miles  in  extent,  which  is  the  first  anchorage.  The  ship 
now  bears  away  three  points  to  the  right  and  opens  the 
whole  length  of  the  harbor,  and  on  the  right  the  length 
of  the  city,  while  her  larboard  side  opens  to  the  town 
and  fortifications  of  Valetta  which  rise  100  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  The  ship  is  now  completely  encircled 
by  fortifications,  but  yet  has  not  opened  the  arsenal  har- 
bor. She  proceeds  as  far  as  the  centre  of  the  city,  then 
she  opens  the  arsenal  harbor,  which  is  fortified  on  either 
side  and  is  in  the  shape  of  an  elbow  and  from  two  to 
three  miles  long  from  its  m  nith  to  its  head,  which  is  in 
the  centre  of  the  lowest  part  of  the  town  of  Valetta,  at 
which  is  a  large  market  house  close  to  the  water  side. 
The  town  of  Valetta  includes  both  sides  of  the  arsenal 
harbor.  This  town  and  the  city  of  St.  John  are  walled 
in,  and  a  guard  is  stationed  at  the  gates  to  prevent  all 
English  mariners  from  passing.  On  several  occasions 
in  company  with  others  I  endeavored  both  in  the  city 
and  town  to  pass  through  the  gates  to  view  the  country, 
but  we  were  prevented  on  every  occasion  by  the  senti- 
nel who  happened  to  be  a  Maltese.  One  day,  being 
on  a  ramble  on  the  Valetta  side  and  strayed  from  the  rest 
of  the  boys,  having  a  desire  to  see  the  country  I  pro- 
ceeded toward  the  gates  to  endeavor  once  more  to  pass 
through  them,  if  possible,  and  fortunately  for  me,  just 


OF    THOMAS    W.     SMITH.  91 

as  I  come  to  it,  a  drove  of  asses  which  came  in  another 
direction  came  up  to  the  gates,  and  I  immediately  con- 
ceived the  idea  of  mixing  in  with  them  and  pass  through 
if  possible,  unobserved  by  the  sentinel.  I  did  so  and 
succeeded  in  my  undertaking  beyond  my  expectation. 
I  then  proceeded  along  the  road  which  led  me  into  the 
country,  and  which  rose  gradually  to  the  general  hight 
of  the  island  which  is  from  one  to  200  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  I  traveled  about  three  miles  in  a  south- 
erly direction  and  not  finding  any  thing  to  attract  my  at- 
tention, the  general  aspect  of  the  country  as  far  as  I 
could  see  from  my  elevated  position  being  rocky  and 
barren,  1  returned  into  the  town  by  the  same  rout.  The 
general  plan  and  building  of  the  city  of  St.  John  do  not  ex- 
hibit much  taste  or  ingenuity.  The  streets  are  irregular 
and  paved  in  the  common  way.  The  houses  are  chiefly 
built  of  stone  and  in  the  oriental  fashion,  scarcely  rising 
two  stories  high.  Having  previously  heard  much  said 
about  the  beauty  and  riches  of  St.  John's  church  and 
particularly  of  the  silver  and  gold  gates,  we  became  de- 
sirous of  visiting  it,  to  see  those  great  wonders  of  the 
world.  Accordingly,  we  proceeded  to  the  church.  On 
our  arrival,  by  paying  a  fourpence  to  the  person  who 
was  intrusted  with  the  care  of  the  building  and  the  duty 
of  attending  to  the  visitors,  the  body  of  the  church  op- 
ened to  our  view.  It  is  large  and  capacious  and  in  ev- 
ery respect  like  a  Spanish  church.  Each  side  is  sup- 
ported by  a  row  of  marble  pillars  from  two  to  three  feet 
in  diameter.  The  floor  is  beautifully  ornamented  with  the 
finest  of  stone,  which  is  richly  painted  and  manufactured 
in  such  a  manner  as  to  be  as  lasting  as  the  stone.  On 
the  right  is  another  part  of  the  church  one  third  as  large 
as  the  main  building  and  represents  it  in  every  respect. 
After  being  shown  the  body  of  the  church  we  were  led  to 
the  right  side  of  the  building  near  the  principal  altar  to 
a  small  cavity  in  the  side  of  the  building  which  was  in- 
closed with  glass  and  small  iron  bars.  We  were  reques- 
ted to  look  into  it,  which  we  did  to  our  surprise  and  as- 
tonishment. Here  we  beheld  a  human  skull  erect  in  a 
large  silver  dish.  On  its  head  was  a  crown  of  diamonds, 
each  of  which  to  the  best  of  my  judgment  was  half  of 


92  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

an  inch  long  and  in  the  cavity  of  each  eye  was  one  of 
a  larger  size.  We  were  informed  by  the  trustee  that  it 
was  in  reality  the  skull  of  John  the  Baptist,  which  he 
affirmed  had  been  there  for  some  hundreds  of  years. 
This  skull  is  held  in  great  reverence  by  the  Maltese, 
illustrated  by  the  costly  gems  and  jewels  with  which 
they  have  superstitiously  ornamented  it,  as  if  they  were 
doing  great  honor  to  the  departed  spirit  of  the  Saint. 
Our  guide  then  took  us  to  the  altar  which  in  every 
catholic  church  faces  to  the  door,  and  there  entertained 
us  by  exhibiting  the  silver  grates  or  railing  which  encir- 
cles the  altar  from  one  side  of  the  building  to  the  other. 
The  bars  which  were  from  five  to  six  inches  apart, 
spread  in  a  circular  form  from  sixty  to  soventy  feet  and 
were  about  one  inch  and  a  half  square,  and  from  six  to 
eight  feet  high.  He  also  showed  us  the  place  where 
the  gold  railing  of  the  same  size  had  stood  before  the 
altar,  but  which  was  taken  by  Bonaparte  in  connection 
with  a  gold  gun,  and  sent  to  France  in  a  French  frigate, 
which  was  captured  on  her  passage  home  by  the  Sea- 
horse, an  English  frigate  of  the  same  size  and  taken 
to  England.  The  gold  gate  and  gun  were  deposited 
in  the  Tower  of  London,  where  they  have  been 
exhibited  ever  since  as  an  ever  memorable  trophy  of  the 
war.  We  were  next  led  to  the  left  of  the  altar  down 
into  a  large  and  spacious  vault,  which  borrowed  its  light 
from  two  or  three  windows  which  were  level  with  the 
street.  There  we  saw  the  embalmed  bodies  of  the 
Saints  which  had  departed  this  life  some  hundreds  of 
years,  ago.  They  were  in  metal  coffins,  placed  around 
the  wall  of  the  vault  on  stone  hutments  built  for  the 
special  purpose.  The  floor  of  the  vault  was  handsome- 
ly flagged  with  the  best  of  smooth  sfone.  Beneath  this 
Jarge  vault  were  three  smaller  vaults  into  which  we  de- 
scended by  removing  from  each  mouth  a  large  stone,  on 
which  were  written  the  name  of  those  whose  bodies  had 
been  deposited  beneath. 

After  having  gratified  our  curiosity  we  ascended  from 
the  vaults  and  walked  out  of  the  church  and  bid  fare- 
well to  the  trustee  whom  we  visited  on  a  subsequent 
voyage. 


OF    THOMAS    W.     SMITH.  93 

On  the  following  Sabbath  we  took  precisely  the  same 
rout,  and  after  having  satisfactorily  visited  the  most  in- 
teresting parts  of  the  city,  we  proceeded  to  the  Queen's 
garden,  which  is  celebrated  for  its  beauty  and  magnifi- 
cence. Having  entered  the  garden  to  which  there  was 
free  admittance,  our  attention  was  arrested  by  a  canary 
nursery  on  the  right  of  the  garden  which  was  built  against 
the  wall.  It  was  constructed  of  thick  wire  and  in  the 
shape  of  a  half  moon  with  a  small  wall  two  or  three  feet 
high  for  its  base.  In  it  were  a  number  of  those  beau- 
tiful little  warblers,  which  when  enjoying  the  blessing  of 
liberty  in  their  native  clirne,  ravish  the  ear  with  their 
melodious  notes.  There  were  suitable  little  houses  ap- 
propriated to  their  use.  In  the  middle  was  a  natural 
rock  out  of  which  issued  a  small  spring  of  water  which 
fell  and  splashed  on  the  craggy  part  of  its  base.  There 
were  also  small  stumps  of  trees  for  the  little  warblers 
to  rest  upon,  and  in  fact  there  was  every  requsitive  to 
represent  nature  within  the  nursery  which  was  calculated 
to  make  the  little  fellows  happy  ;  but  still  it  was  a  prison. 
On  the  opposite  side  was  another  nursery  for  another 
kind  of  bird,  equally  large  and  as  handsome  in  every 
respect.  We  proceeded  through  the  different  walks 
amusing  ourselves  by  visiting  and  admiring  the  beauty  of 
every  shady  arbor  until  we  had  proceeded  so  far  that  we 
became  apprehensive  of  missing  our  way.  We  imme- 
diately retraced  our  steps  but  soon  ascertained  that  we 
had  gone  beyond  prudence.  After  endeavoring  for 
some  time  to  find  our  way  out, our  fears  were  at  last  re- 
lieved by  the  presence  of  the  garden-keeper  who  led  us 
out  for  which  services  we  rewarded  him  with  a  few  pen- 
nies. 

In  this  manner  we  usually  spent  the  Sabbath,  regard- 
less of  the  injunction,  which  says  :  "  Remember  the 
Sabbath  day  and  keep  it  holy."  But  we  were  young 
and  ignorant,  and  this  was  the  example  set  before  us  in 
every  port  we  visited,  not  only  by  our  crew  but  by  every 
crew,  no  matter  of  whit  nation.  But  since  that  period 
custom  has  taken  a  different  course  and  the  friends  of 
humanity  have  great  reason  to  rejoice  in  the  rapid  pro- 
gress which  civilization  and  Christianity  are  making. 


94  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

While  lying  at  Malta  a  circumstance  occurred  the  par- 
ticulars of  which  I  cannot  easily  pass  over  as  they  are 
somewhat  connected  with  my  narrative.  One  evening 
just  between  twilight  and  dark  as  we  were  walking 
along  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town  of  Valetta,  in  a 
street  which  had  low  and  mean  looking  houses  on  one 
side  and  a  low  stone  wall  on  the  other,  designed  to  pro- 
tect the  citizens  from  the  dangers  of  the  precipice,  we 
heard  from  a  distance  in  plain  English  the  cry  of  mur- 
der. At  this  we  took  alarm  ;  notwithstanding  we  stood 
for  a  moment  to  listen,and  again  we  heard  the  mournful 
voice.  We  immediately  ran  to  a  public  house,  a  resort 
for  English  sailors.  On  the  information  we  imparted, 
twenty  men  immediately  proceeded  with  the  greatest 
possible  speed,  conducted  by  us  to  the  spot  where  we 
first  heard  the  alarm.  As  we  approached  within  a  few 
rods  of  the  place  a  great  noise  was  heard  and  the  cry  of 
murder  followed  it.  In  an  instant  one  and  all  ran  with 
the  greatest  impetuosity  against  the  gate  which  was  fas- 
tened and  brought  it  to  the  ground.  The  gate  being  down 
we  all  rushed  into  the  small  yard  and  sung  out  at  the 
same  tirne  :  "who  is  here  ?"  A  voice  responded,  "save 
me  or  these  villains  will  kill  me."  In  a  moment  we 
rushed  to  his  assistance  and  found  an  English  sailor  at 
the  foot  of  a  pair  of  back  stairs  with  the  back  of  a  chair 
in  his  hand,  weak  and  staggering  with  the  loss  of  blood. 
Close  by  him  was  a  female  and  a  boy  15  or  16  years 
of  age,  lying  lifeless  on  the  ground  with  their  brains 
knocked  out.  At  the  time  two  men  from  the  upper 
part  of  the  house,  were  seen  making  their  escape  over 
the  tops  of  the  houses  which  they  could  easily  do,  the 
houses  in  this  street  being  very  low  and  the  roofs  flat. 
Having  learned  the  cause  which  led  to  the  horrible  deed, 
we  immediately  rushed  up  stairs  to  secure  the  murder- 
er5, but  we  were  too  late  ;  they  were  gone.  On  enter- 
ing the  apartment  we  discovered  the  effects  of  the  first 
part  of  the  horrible  scene.  It  was  a  large  room  covered 
with  clotted  blood  from  one  end  to  the  other.  On  one  side 
laid  the  corpse  of  a  Maltese  with  his  brains  strewed  all 
over  the  room.  On  the  other  side  of  the  room 


was  a 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  95 

cradle  in  which  was  an  infant  whose  skull  had  been 
broken  by  a  violent  blow.  Having  obtained  knowledge 
of  all  that  had  transpired,  we  immediately  left  the  scene 
of  destruction  and  conveyed  the  wounded  man  to  the 
water's  side,  where  he  was  put  into  a  boat  and  safely 
conducted  to  his  vessel,  a  store-ship. 

In  the  course  of  two  or  three  weeks,  having  partly  re- 
covered from  his  wounds,  he  was  brought  to  trial  for  the 
murder  of  the  four  persons  we  found  lying  in  their  blood. 
In  his  examination,  he  gave  a  very  lull  and  satisfac- 
tory detail  of  the  whole  transaction  from  the  commence- 
ment tqxlhe  end.  In  his/Jefence,  he  gave  conclusive 
and  satisfactory  evidence  to  the  court  of  his  having 
committed  the  bloody  deed  in  self-defence.  The  many 
and  dangerous  wounds  which  he  received  were  suf- 
ficient testimony,  and  left  no  doubts  on  the  mind  of 
the  couit,  as  to  the  designs  of  the  Maltese,  to  mur- 
der him.  In  his  examination,  the  prisoner  made  the 
following  solemn  declaration :  That  he,  like  all  English 
sailors,  while  in  foreign  places,  was  strolling  about,  and 
accidentally  happened  to  pass  that  way  ;  that  while  in 
the  act  of  passing  by  the  house,  the  woman  killed,  made 
signs  to  him  to  come  in.  He  went  through  the 
gate  into  a  little  yard  which  led  him  to  the  stairs,  on  the 
top  of  which  he  saw  the  woman.  She  then  invited  him 
up  stairs.  He  accepted  the  invitation,  and  was  led  into 
the  room  where  he  was  first  assaulted  and  wounded  by 
the  Maltese.  He  farther  stated,  that  he  had  not  been 
in  the  room  many  minutes,  when  a  man  who  came  out 
of  ihe  other  part  of  the  house,  entered  the  room  and 
spoke  to  him  in  broken  English,  asking  him  if  he  want- 
ed some  wine.  His  answer  was,  '  yes.'  The  Maltese 
replied  ;  '  If  you  give  me  money,  I  fetch.'  That  ac- 
cordingly, he  gave  him  a  quarter  of  a  dollar,  with  which 
he  bought  two  bottles  of  wine,  and  brought  it  to  the 
house  ;  and  they  all  sat  down  and  smoked  and  drank 
merrily  round,  until  it  was  gone.  The  wine  being  out, 
the  Maltese  said  to  him  ; '  Jack,  wine  gone,  you  want  gin 
and  wine;  1  fetch,  you  give  me  money.'  He  gave  him 
a  half  dollar,  and  one  of  the  Maltese  went  and  procured 
two  more  bottles  of  wine  and  a  half  bottle  of  gin.  They 


96  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

continued  drinking  until  they  all  became  quite  rnerry. 
By  this  time  it  had  become  nearly  dark,  and  he  was 
about  taking  leave  of  his  drunken  companions,  when  one 
of  them  said  ;  '  Jack,  you  no  go  yet — you  got  money, 
you  give  money  pay  for  wine.'  "  Oh,  no,"  he  replied, 
"  I  have  given  you  sufficient  money  to  pay  for  it  twice 
over  !"  '  Oh  no,  Jack,  you  lie  !  you  no  give  money!' 
He  was  going  toward  the  door,  when  one  of  them  gave 
him  a  severe  blow  which  knocked  him  down  ;  and  then 
they  fell  upon  him,  but  he,  being  a  stout  man,  turned 
one  of  them  under  him  and  throttled  him  very  severely. 
While  thus  engaged,  the  other  wounded  him  severely 
with  a  knife.  Finding  himself  wounded,  he  let  go  his 
hold  and  seized  a  chair,  which  he  broke  in  pieces  in  de- 
fending himself  against  the  two,  who  were  now  endea- 
voring to  stab  him  with  their  knives.  He  defended 
himself  for  some  time  against  their  united  efforts  to  kill 
him.  But  at  last  he  received  another  wound,  which  so 
exasperated  him,  that  he  ran  furiously  at  one  of  them. 
Being  closely  pursued  by  the  other,  from  the  opposite 
side  of  the  room,  he  turned  quickly  on  his  heel,  and 
with  a  full  swing,  struck  his  pursuer  on  the  head,  who 
immediately  fell.  The  other,  seeing  his  companion 
down,  made  his  escape  through  another  part  of  the  house. 
Being  thus  exasperated,  wounded,  and  all  over  a  gore 
of  blo&d,  he  immediately  commenced  making  his  way 
out  of  the  door,  which  had  been  previously  fastened. 
In  his  way,  he  saw  a  cradle  in  which  was  a  little  babe  ; 
and  being  furiously  enraged  at  the  time,  he,  thoughtless 
of  the  innocence  of  his  victim,  inhumanly  deprived  it  of 
life.  This,  indeed,  was  an  act  of  barbarity,  and  for 
which  he  was  highly  censured  and  condemned.  This 
was  the  only  act,  as  he  subsequently  declared,  which  on 
reflection,  filled  his  conscience  with  remorse  ;  and  to  ex- 
piate himself  from  it,  he  earnestly  declared  he  would 
have  given  the  world,  had  it  been  in  his  possession. 

Having  succeeded  in  forcing  the  door  and  gain- 
ing the  little  yard,  he  proceeded  to  the  street-gate  to 
make  his  escape,  which  was  two  or  three  rods  from  the 
foot  of  the  stairs,  but  to  his  surprise,  he  found  it  strong- 
ly secured.  Finding  that  he  could  not  succeed  in  open- 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  97 

ing  the  gate  and  seeing  himself  closely  pursued  by  the 
Maltese,  he  turned   and  met  them  near  the  foot  of  the 
stairs,  and   after  a  terrible  conflict  he  succeeded  in  driv- 
ing them  back.     After  this,  they  made  several  attempts 
to  get  down,  but  without  effect.     Finding  it  impossible 
to  get  down  without  endangering  their  lives,  they  com- 
menced a  new  mode   of  warfare,  throwing  down  upon 
him   every  thing  that   could    be    found   to  injure  him, 
or  to  take  his  life.     By  these  missiles,  he  was  severely 
wounded.     Finding  that  they  could  not  succeed  in  this 
manner  of  depriving  him  of  his  life,   they  sent  the  wo- 
man round  to  the  back  of  him  to  attract  his  attention 
and  thus  to  afford  them  an  opportunity  to  fall  upon  him 
and  to  put  an  end  to  his  existence.     The  woman  actu- 
ally succeeeded  in  getting  round  upon  him  and  slightly 
stabbed  him  in  the  back.     Finding  himself  attacked  in 
the  rear,  he  turned  and  with  a  blow  broke  her   skull. 
This  gave   the   Maltese   an   opportunity  to  rush  down 
upon  him,  which   they    did,    but   were     soon  beaten 
back  by  him.     The  next  thing  they  contrived  to  attract 
his  attention  was  the  sending  of  a  boy,  15  years  of  age, 
with  a  long  knife  behind    him  to   stab  him  if  possible. 
The  boy  got   behind    him,   while  the  Maltese  renewed 
their  exertions  to  gain  the  bottom  of  the  stairs.     This 
gave  the  boy  a  more  favorable  opportunity,  who  was  urg- 
ed on  by  the  Maltese  who  were  talking  to  him  all  the 
while.     After  several  attempts,  the  boy  succeeded   in 
wounding  him   in    the  back,  he  being   deeply  engaged 
in  striving  to  prevent  the  men  from  getting  off  the  stairs. 
Feeling  that  he  was  stabbed,  he  turned  quickly  round, 
and  at  one  blow  knocked  his  brains  out,  and  tlms  termi- 
nated the   boy's  fate.     The  Maltese,  thus  defeated  in 
every  effort  recommenced  throwing  the  things  out  of  the 
house  upon  him.     In  this  they  were  engaged,  when  we 
firs(  heard  the  noise,  and  the  gate  was  forced  open  by 
those  of  us  who  came  to  his  assistance. 

The  case  was  brought  in  manslaughter,  and  the  sen- 
tence was,  six  month's  imprisonment.  The  surviving 
Maltese  were  also  tried  and  imprisoned. 

The  ship  being  now  ready  for  sea,  she  was  hauled  to 
the  outward  roads  to  be  ready  to  embrace  the  first  fair 
13 


98  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

wind.  Here  we  laid  a  week  waiting  for  a  fair  breeze, 
during  which  time  we  exercised,  for  improvement,  with 
the  great  guns  and  small  arms. 

At  last  we  were  favored  with  the  long  expected 
wind,  and  after  having  laid  in  this  port  several  months, 
we  set  sail  for  the  land  of  our  birth.  We  were  several 
weeks  on  our  passage  to  Gibraltar,  where  we  stopped 
to  water  our  ship  for  England. 

We  sailed  with  a  convoy  of  eight  transport  ships,  un- 
der our  protection  and  that  of  a  sloop-of-war  brig.  We 
proceeded  on  our  passage  unmolested  by  dangers  until 
we  arrived  on  the  skirts  of  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  where, 
one  night,  we  were  put  in  a  state  of  excitement  by  the 
appearance  of  a  strange  sail  in  the  midst  of  our  convoy. 

There  had  been  a  rumor  currently  reported  among 
the  navy  officers,  that  there  was  an  American  frigate 
cruising  in  those  latitudes,  and  this  was  supposed  to  be 
the  identical  vessel. 

As  soon  as  the  information  was  received,  it  went 
through  the  ship  like  electricity.  All  hands  were  im- 
mediately on  deck  making  preparations  for  action,  be- 
fore the  word  of  command  had  been  given  by  the  officers. 
The  captain  immediately  gave  orders  to  beat  to  quarters 
and  clear  the  ship  for  action,  which  was  done  in  a  very 
few  minutes. 

All  hands  being  now  to  their  quarters,  all  the  guns 
were  double-shotted  and  the  lower  and  top-sail-yards 
were  secured  to  the  mast-heads  and  the  preventive  brac- 
es were  put  to  the  yard-arms.  Meanwhile  information 
was  given  to  the  commodore  by  night-signals,  who  im- 
mediately bore  down  upon  us  and  laid  by  us  all  night 
with  all  hands  to  quarters.  Signals  were  made  for  the 
convoy  to  close  ;  consequently  they  all  closed  in  and  sur- 
rounded us  and  the  commodore,  seeking  protection. 

All  hands  felt  a  deep  solicitude  for  the  dawning 
of  the  day,  that  we  might  discover  our  intrepid  ene- 
my, if  such  there  was  in  our  convoy.  Before  the  dawn 
of  day  our  officers  were  stationed  at  the  mast-head  with 
their  spy-glasses  to  catch  the  first  glance  at  the  intruder 
and  disturber  of  our  peace.  The  first  rays  of  light  from 
the  glittering  orb  had  scarcely  darted  from  the  eastern 


OF   THOMAS    VV    SMITH.  99 

horizon,  when  the  officer  from  the  mast-head  discover- 
ed and  reported  a  strange  sail,  right  a-head,  two  miles 
distant  from  us. 

In  an  instant  all  hands  were  called  to  make  sail,  and 
in  twenty  minutes  all  useful  sails  were  crowded  on  the 
ship. 

Our  commodore  had  previously  advanced  a-head  of 
the  convoy  to  cut  off  the  strange  sail  by  the  break  of  day, 
but  in  this  he  found  himself  unexpectedly  deceived, 
for  instead  of  being  a-head  of  the  stranger,  he  was  actu- 
ally one  mile  a-stern,  but,  being  a  superior  sailor,  he 
gained  upon  her  slowly.  Both  vessels  crowded  all  pos- 
sible sail  for  the  chase,  which  lasted  upwards  of  five 
hours. 

Though  the  breeze  had  increased  considerably  since 
morning,  yet  it  was  not  sufficiently  strong  to  benefit  us 
on  this  desirable  occasion,  as  we  anticipated  that  an  ac- 
tion would  take  place,  and  we  felt  an  anxious  solicitude 
to  give  the  commodore  all  possible  assistance  against  our 
common  foe. 

We  could  perceive  the  crew  of  each  ship,  as  we  sail- 
ed near  each  other,  crowded  on  the  fore-castle,  watching 
with  deep  anxiety  the  motions  of  the  two  vessels,  which 
were  now  closely  approaching  within  the  range  of  ac- 
tion. Neither  of  the  vessels  had  as  yet  displayed  its 
national  flag. 

The  vessels  were  now  parallel,  and  at  a  short  distance 
from  each  other,  with  their  guns  run  out  end  ready  to 
fire.  They  now  commenced  to  shorten  sail,  which  was 
an  indication  of  a  prepartion  for  action.  The  studding 
and  royal-sails,  being  in  the  course,  were  now  hauled  up, 
and  the  t  pride  of  England'  was  hoisted  to  the  peak. 
Two  shot  were  now  fired  by  the  commodore  across  the 
stranger's  bow,  which  brought  him  to  the  conclosion  to 
hoist  his  national  flag,  which  he  did,  to  his  peak  end. 
We  were  rejoiced  and  highly  disappointed  to  see  her 
display  a  Russian  flag  instead  of  an  American,  as  we 
had  anticipated. 

All  our  anxiety  now  subsided,  and  the  fearful,  antici- 
pated action  and  bloody  slaughter  was  buried  in  the 
Vceao  of  peace  and  serenity. 


100  LIFE  AND  TRAVELS 

We  continued  our  passage,  which  on  the  whole  prov- 
ed to  be  a  pleasant  one,  until  we  arrived  at  Portsmouth 
which  was  our  destined  port.  There  we  discharged  our 
cargo  and  immediately  proceeded  to  take  in  another. 

Having  taken  in  our  cargo  we  immediately  receiv- 
ed orders  to  proceed  to  Spithead  to  make  suitable 
preparations  for  sea.  Accordingly  after  the  usual  pre- 
parations were  made,  we  embraced  the  first  favorable 
wind  and  proceeded  to  the  fortress  of  Gibraltar. 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  101 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Departure  from  England;  arrival  off  Gibraltar  ;  abuse  of  men  on 
board  of  the  Admiral's  ship  ;  sails  over  to  Algesiras  j  celebration 
of  the  peace  of  1814  ;  arrival  at  Portsmouth. 

FIF,TH    VOYAGE. 

As  my  fifth  voyage,  which  was  performed  in  six 
months,  consisted  only  in  going  to  Gibraltar  and  hack  to 
Portsmouth,  I  have  deemed  it  advisable  to  give  a  con- 
cise history  of  the  principal  transactions  only,  as  a 
minute  narration  of  it  would  only  be  a  repetition  of  in- 
formation already  imparted  to  the  reader.  We  sailed  for 
Gibraltar  and  after  having  enjoyed  a  prosperous  passage 
arrived  at  that  place  in  two  weeks.  We  proceded  to  the 
Mole-head,  where  we  moored  ship'  within  a  few  reds  of 
the  St.  Johns,  admiral-ship  of  that  port.  Here  we  laid 
four  months,  discharging  and  loading,  during  which  we 
were  indulged  with  the  usual  privilege  of  visiting  the 
shore. 

While  lying  by  the  side  of  this  noble  bulwark  of  Old 
England,  bearing  the  flag  of  Admiral  Linsey,  who,  by 
the  by,  was  proverbially  one  of  the  greatest  tyrants  in 
the  British  navy,  we  were  under  the  disagreeable  ne- 
cessity of  frequently  witnessing  the  most  cruel  and  heart- 
rending scenes  of  abuse  and  inhumanity.  This  hard- 
hearted tyrant  was  so  rigid  in  discipline,  that  for  ev- 
ery trivial  cause,  he  would  flog  his  men  with  great  se- 
verity. 

Having  finished  taking  in  our  cargo,  the  ship  was 
hauled  out  of  the  Mole  to  the  outward  anchorage  to  wa- 
ter for  England,  but  in  consequence  of  the  plague's 
breaking  out  in  the  city,  we  were  compelled  to  leave 
the  port  and  sail  for  Algesiras,  a  Spanish  port  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  bay  where  we  came  to  anchor  and 
finished  our  preparations  for  sea. 9 

Previous  to  our  sailing  over  to  Algesiras,  the  welcome 
news  of  peace  with  France  arrived  from  England,  which 


102  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

was  received  with  manifestations  of  joy  and  rejoicing. 
The  event  was  celebrated  with  a  magnificent  illumination, 
discharges  of  ordnance  and  fire-arms,  and  a  display  of 
blue-lights  and  rockets. 

The  ship  being  now  ready  and  being  favored  with  a 
good  breeze,  we  took  our  departure,  and  steered  for  the 
white  cliffs  of  Old  England,  with  the  joyful  anticipations 
of  meeting  our  relatives  and  friends  once  more  on  the 
shores  of  time. 

Our  passage  proved  to  be  the  shortest  we  had  ever 
made. 

After  arriving  at  Portsmouth,  the  ship  was  immediate- 
ly discharged  of  her  cargo  and  went  through  the  neces- 
sary repairs.  We  then  commenced  taking  in  her  cargo 
for  the  Mediterranean  again.  The  ship  being  at  length 
loaded  and  ready  for  sea,  we  proceeded  to  Spithead. 
While  lying  at  that  place  we  took  in  400  foreigners, 
of  different  nations,  who  in  consequence  of  the  peace, 
were  liberated  from  loathsome  French  prisons.  These 
men  had  been  taken  prisoners  under  the  English  flag, 
and  now  as  peace  was  concluded,  they  were  returned 
to  England,  she  being  under  obligation  to  return  them  to 
their  homes,  which  task  she  honorably  accomplished. 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  103 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Departure  from  England;  becomes  conversant  with  three  foreign 
languages;  arrival  at  Lisbon  in  Portugal;  a  description  of  the 
city  of  Lisbon  ;  a  dangerous  place  for  foreigners  ;  murder  com- 
mitted by  the  Portuguese  boatmen  ;  arrival  at  Port  Mahon  ;  'de- 
cription  of  the  harbor  and  its  entrance ;  description  of  the  city 
and  Georgetown  ;  visited  by  the  Spanish  admiral ;  information 

of    Bonaparte's    departure  from  Elba ;    arrival     at  Malta 

plague  there  ;  arrival  in  England. 

SIXTH    VOYAGE. 

All  necesssary  preparations  being  made  and  the  ship 
ready  for  sea,  we  once  more  spread  our  wings  to  a  favora- 
ble breeze,  which  swiftly  conveyed  us  to  our  destined 
haven.  During  the  continuance  of  this  voyage  which 
was  14  months,  by  a  strict  application  and  practice,  1 
became  conversant  with  the  Italian  and  Portuguese  lan- 
guages ;  and  notwitstanding  the  advantages  of  a  better 
education  which  the  other  boys  possessed,  and  the  pro- 
ficiency which  they  made  in  the  languages,  I  excelled 
them  on  many  occasions,  and  was  chosen  in  preference 
to  any  of  them  as  an  interpreter  for  the  officers.  At  the 
termination  of  the  voyage,  I  could  speak  three  lan- 
guages besides  my  own.  After  a  few  days  we  arriv- 
ed at  Lisbon  and  came  to  anchor  opposite  the  Black 
Horse  Square.  There  we  landed  the  Portuguese  whom 
we  had  on  board.  In  Lisbon  we  laid  several  weeks, 
during  which  T  was  permitted  to  visit  the  shore  on 
the  sabbath,  and  frequently,  with  the  officers,  as  an  in- 
terpreter. 

Lisbon  is  a  large  city,  built  on  a  plain  extending  be- 
tween two  and  three  miles  along  a  branch  of  the  river 
Tagus.  It  contains  a  population  of  2  or  300,000,  and  is 
the  capital  of  Portugal. 

The  principal  streets  are  wide  and  handsomely  paved, 
particularly  Gold  and  Silver  streets,  each  of  which  is 
chiefly  occupied  by  gold  and  silversmith's  shops. 


104  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

The  Queen's  palace  is  situated  between  the  city  and 
Balim  castle.  It  is  a  large  and  magnificent  building, 
near  which  are  many  beautiful  gardens.  There  is  a 
square  near  the  water  side  which  is  called  Black  Horse 
Square,  which  derives  its  name  from  a  black  horse  and 
rider  which  are  erected  in  the  middle  of  the  square. 
The  horse  and  rider,  as  I  have  been  informed,  represents 
king  Joseph  of  Portugal  on  horseback. 

Lisbon  is  a  corrupt  city,  and  dangerous  for  foreigners 
to  walk  in  after  dark.  This  is  in  consequence  of  the 
non-enforcement  of  the  laws  on  a'set  of  murderous  ruf- 
fians, who  as  soon  as  it  is  dark,  lurk  about  the  by-places 
through  which  the  sailor's  have  to  pass  to  go  on  board 
their  ships  and  whenever  they  see  an  opportunity  to  rob 
and  murder  a  man  they  do  not  hesitate  to  embrace  it. 
Some  of  our  men  while  returning  peaceably  to  the  ship, 
were  attacked  and  wounded  by  those  villains  on  several 
occasions. 

About  this  time  there  were  a  number  of  vessels  lying 
in  the  river  and  there  were  several  men  missing  from 
the  ships.  No  one  could  give  an  account  of  their  dis- 
appearance. At  last  a  discovery  was  made  which  put 
every  one  on  their  guard.  It  was  ascertained  thtt  the 
Portuguese  boatmen,  in  many  instances,  took  the  advan- 
tage of  the  boat-keepers.  Whenever  they  found  a  sin- 
gle man  keeping  a  boat,  two  or  three  of  them  would 
unite  in  knocking  him  down  and  throwing  him  overboard 
and  then  rob  the  boat  of  all  its  contents. 

Another  discovery  was  made.  A  stout-hearted  sai- 
lor, who  belonged  to  one  of  the  transports  lying  down 
the  river,  having  spent  the  day  on  shore,  employed  a 
boatman  to  take  him  on  board  of  his  ship.  The  night 
was  dark  and  it  was  about  10  o'clock  P.  M.  when  he 
embarked  on  board  of  the  boat  which  was  rowed  by  the 
boatman  who  appeared  to  be  a  lusty  fellow.  After  row- 
ing his  boat  about  three  fourths  of  the  way  to  the  ship 
he  let  go  his  oars  and  said,  "Jack,  I  put  rudder  on 
boat,  you  steer  along  side  your  ship."  As  he  said  this 
he  walked  aft,  took  the  rudder  from  the  bottom  of  the 
boat  and  shipped  it,  then  look  from  the  same  place  a  hea- 
vy tiller  and  struck  the  sailor  on  his  head  which  deprived 


OF    THOMAS    W.  SMITH.  105 

him  of  all  physical  power  for  a  few  moments.  He  then 
rifled  his  pockets  and  threw  him  overboard,  after  which 
he  took  to  his  oars  and  rowed  his  boat  on  shore.  The 
poor  sailor  was  not  wholly  deprived  of  strength  or  rea- 
son, and  being  a  good  swimmer  he  succeeded  in  gaining 
one  of  the  ship's  cables  by  which  means^his  life  was 
preserved.  The  news  of  this  transaction  went  through 
the  shipping  as  on  the  wings  of  the  wind,  and  every  sea- 
man in  the  harbor  was  admonished  by  it.  They  could 
now  go  on  shore  and  be  on  their  guard  against  a  similar 
attempt.  But  the  sailor  who  had  been  thus  maltreated 
without  a  provocation  was  determined  to  have  his  re- 
venge ;  accordingly  he  went  on  shore  on  the  following 
Sabbath  prepared  for  the  occasion.  Having  spent  that 
holy-day  as  sailors  generally  do,  he  walked  down  to  the 
stairs  at  the  same  time  of  the  night  as  he  had  previously 
done.  There  he  saw  the  identical  boatman  ;  he  em- 
ployed him  as  he  had  done  on  the  previous  Sabbath,  to 
take  him  on  board.  The  fellow  rowed  until  he  came 
to  about  the  same  distance  from  the  shipping  as  he  had 
been  when  he  committed  the  previous  depredation.  He 
then  as  he  had  done  before  let  go  his  oars,  and  repeated 
the  same  language  that  he  had  done  before.  The  sai- 
lor seeing  plainly  what  the  fellow  was  about  to  do,  and 
having  a  cocked  pistol  in  his  left  hand  and  a  dagger  in 
his  right,  he  immediately  stood  up  and  presented  the 
pistol  to  the  boatman  and  commanded  him  to  row  the 
boat  to  the  ship  or  he  was  a  dead  man.  The  terrified 
boatman  immediately  obeyed  the  mandate  and  rowed  the 
boat  along  side  of  the  ship.  The  ship's  crew  being  al- 
ready waiting  for  the  long  expected  boat  secured  it  and 
compelled  the  man  to  get  on  board  of  the  ship  and  there 
secured  him.  He  was  then  examined  by  the  crew  who 
compelled  him  to  confess  the  number  of  men  he  had 
thus  destroyed.  The  fellow  pretended  not  to  under- 
staml  but  they  soon  enlightened  his  mind  by  tying  his 
hands  behind  him  and  putting  a  rope  round  his  neck, 
rove  to  the  yard-arm.  This  severe  treatment  brought 
the  fellow  to  a  sense  of  his  immediate  danger ;  finally, 
after  a  long  struggle  of  begging  for  mercy,  he  reluctant- 
ly confessed  he  had  killed  four  Englishmen  in  the  rnan- 

14 


106  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

ner  previously  described.  They  then  took  the  murder- 
ous ruffian,  gave  him  a  most  severe  beating  and  threw 
him  over  board  ;  and  as  the  tide  was,  at  the  time,  rapid- 
ly running  out  to  sea,  in  all  probability  he  was  drowned, 
as  there  were  no  tidings  heard  of  him  after.  The  boat 
was  stove  and  sent  adrift  and  probabably  went  to  sea. 

Having  laid  here  several  weeks,  we  now  received  or- 
ders to  proceed  to  the  next  port  of  destination,  which 
was  Malaga,  where  we  soon  arrived  and  came  to  an- 
chor and  landed  all  the  Spaniards  we  had  on  board. 

From  Malaga  we  proceeded  to  Port  Mahon  where 
we  arrived  in  safety.  While  going  into  Mahon  a  cir- 
cumstance occurred  which  I  cannot  silently  pass  over. 
On  leaving  England  my  master  took  it  in  his  head  to 
mess  with  the  second  master  of  the  ship  and  two  or  three 
masters'  mates.  This  union  created  for  me  an  amount 
of  labor  and  care  which  did  not  justly  belong  to 
me.  Instead  of  attending  on  one  person  I  had 
now  to  attend  with  another  boy  on  six.  On  leav- 
ing England  our  duties  were  divided  by  the  second  mas- 
ter in  regular  order.  One  was  to  cook  one  day  while 
the  other  was  to  perform  the  duty  of  setting  the  table, 
cleaning  the  cabin  and  brushing  the  officers'  shoes,  ^c. 
We  performed  our  duties  cheerfully  and  always  gave 
general  satisfaction  to  the  officers  until  this  unfortunate 
day.  I  had  now  beon  on  board  nearly  three  years,  dur- 
ing which  I  had  received  the  kindest  treatment  with 
one  exception,  from  officers  and  men.  It  was  ear- 
ly in  the  morning  when  the  ship  made  the  land  and  our 
usual  breakfast  time  was  at  half  past  7  o'clock  and  it  was 
evident  that  the  ship  would  enter  the  mouth  of  the  har- 
bor three  quarters  of  an  hour  previous  to  the  time  of 
breakfast.  This  day  it  was  my  unlucky  turn  to  do  the 
cooking  and  I  had  hung  the  kettle  before  the  range,  not 
being  able  to  obtain  a  place  on  the  top.  The  second 
master  informed  me  that  we  should  have  breakfast  before 
the  time  this  morning  and  to  make  haste  and  get  the 
cocoa  boiled.  I  immediately  obeyed  the  mandate  and 
commenced  like  the  other  boys  to  blow  and  poke  the 
fire  to  make  it  burn,  but  the  fire  which  was  made  of 
English  coal,  was  on  that  morning  unusually  dull,  as 
the  old  Portuguese  cook  had  paid  no  particular  i^gard 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  107 

to  it.     By  the  time  the  ship  had  approached  within  a 
mile  of  the  harbor,  the  second  master  being  desirous  of 
getting  his  breakfast  before  the  ship  entered,  he  sent  for 
me  to  know  if  the  cocoa  had  boiled.     I    informed  him 
that  it  had  not.     He  then  requested  me  to  bring  it  as  it 
was.     I  did  so.     Having  brought  it  he  took  off  the  cov- 
er of  the  pot  and  began  to  stir  it  with   a  spoon.     As  he 
was  stirring  it  I  perceived  something  white   floating  in 
the  cocoa.     Ho  inquired   what  it  was.     My  reply  was 
that  I  did  not  know.     He  then  ordered  me  on  deck  and 
at  the  same  time  ordered  the  master-at-arms  to  give  me 
a  severe  flogging  which  he  did  and  faithfully  performed 
his  duty.     While  he  was  beating  me  with  the  double 
part  of  the   fore  bunt-lines,     a  rope   one  and  a   half 
inches  in  circumference,  I  cried  out  like  a  lusty  fellow. 
My  noise  brought  the  captain  to  the  quarter   deck,  who 
instantly  called  the  master-at-arms  and  the  second  mas- 
ter to  an  account  for  their  conduct,  and  gave  them  a  se- 
vere reprimand,  with  the  injunction  never  to  do  the  like 
again  without  his  approbation.     My  master  after  this 
Questioned  me  with  regard  to  the  piece  of  fat  which  was 
floating  in  the  cocoa.     I  gave  him  to  understand  that  I 
was  totally  innocent  of  the  crime   alledged  to  me,  that 
the  second  master  had   wrongfully  inflicted  a  barbarous 
punishment  on  me,  which  I  did  not  deserve.     He  then 
informed  me  that  I  was  not  to  perform  any  more  duties 
in  the  officers'  cabin,  but  that  I  was  to  continue  attending 
on  him.     After  this  he  gave  me  charge  of  the  dispensa- 
ry, to  keep  it  in  order  and  to  deliver  such  medicines  to 
the  sick  as  he  should  direct.  I  was  thankful,  in  one  sense, 
that  the  circumstance  had  occurred,  as  it  relieved  me  of 
a  considerable  share  of  unpleasant  labor,  but  in  another 
sense  I  have  great  reason  ever  to  remember  it,  as  I  was 
most  shamefully  bruised   in  several  parts  of  my  body  ; 
the  marks  were  plainly  visible  14  months  after. 

We  entered  the  harbor  and  proceeded  to  the  arsenal 
where  we  came  to  anchor  and  fastened  the  ship  to 
the  shore.  Here  I  was  chosen  as  one  of  the  crew  for 
the  captain's  gig,  as  his  regular  crew  were  engaged  in 
discharging  the  ship.  The  care  of  this  boat  now  con- 
stituted the  chief  of  my  employment.  Being  thus  em- 


108  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

ployed  on  the  Sabbath  I  was  deprived  of  the  usual  priv- 
ilege, granted  to  the  crew  on  that  day. 

The  harbor  of  Mahon   presents  an  insurmountable 
barrier  to  an  enemy.     It  would  be  impossible  for  all  the 
united  navies  of  the  world  to  enter,  if  it  was  properly  for- 
tified.    The  land  which  you  are  compelled  to  hug,  runs 
out  on  the  left  hand  as  you  go  in  about  a  mile   and  rises 
with  a  rocky  shore  between  one  and  two  hundred  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.     This  place  might  be  made 
impregnable  and  impassable  by  ships  as  they  are  under 
the  necessity  of  passing  within  300  yards  of  the  shore 
all  the  way.     The  entrance  is  not  sufficiently  large  to 
admit  two  large  ships  abreast.     After  you  pass  the  nar- 
rows you   open  the  lower  part  of  the  harbor  in  a  few 
minutes.     In  the  middle  of  this  part  of  the  harbor,  which 
is  very  beautiful  is  a  large  flat  island  with  a  hospital  on 
it  from  which  it  derives  its  name.     The  harbor  on  the 
right  hand  side  is  in  the  form  of  a  half  circle  ;  the  land 
rises  up  gradually  decorated  with  its  green   verdure  and 
beautifully,  separating  into  globular  hills.     The  land  on 
the  left  hand  side  of  the  harbor  from  the  entrance  to  the 
town  is  a  perpendicular  rock,  rising  about  200  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.     There  is  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  harbor  two  or  three  half  moon  coves  which  are  gen- 
erally occupied  by  ships  of  the  line  as  anchoring  grounds. 
On  the  same  side  of  the  shore  the  surface  is  level  for 
miles  excepting  where  the  town  is  situated  which'is  a  little 
hilly.     The  town  is  considerably  large ;  the  houses  are 
built  after  the  Spanish  fashion  and   present   a  neat  ap- 
pearance.    The  streets  are  hilly  and  irregularly  formed. 
Some  three  or  four  miles   distant   is  another  consider- 
able town,  which  by  the   EJnglsh  is  called    Georgetoivn. 
Being  desirous  of  visiting  ijt,  five  of  us  boys  started  on 
an  excursion,  mounted   upon  asses,   this  being  the  only 
way   of  conveyance.      With   regard   to  their  domestic 
habits  and  language  they  differ  considerably  from  the 
Spaniards  on  the  main.     Their  habits  are  much  cleaner 
and  the  language  bears  no  resemblance  to   the  Spanish. 
They  also  differ   in    their  dress,  particularly    the  fe- 
males.    At  that  time   the  Minorcans   were  very  much 
dissatisfied  with  the  Spanish  government,  and  they  felt 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  109 

desirous  that  the  island  might  pass  into  the  hands  of  the 
English,  as  they  considered  such  a  change  would  benefit 
them,  as  it  had  done  on  a  former  occasion  when  the  En- 
glish possessed  it. 

The  same  afternoon  of  our  arrival  the  Spanish  Admi- 
ral conferred  honors  on  us  by  visiting  our  ship.  He  was 
welcomed  on  board  with  a  salute  of  thirteen  guns.  He 
was  then  conducted  to  the  cabin  by  our  captain  and  by 
him  was  handsomely  entertained,  but  not  being  able  to 
understand  each  other  I  was  introduced  into  their  pre- 
sence by  the  captain's  steward,  as  their  interpreter.  Af- 
ter some  conversation  had  taken  place  relative  to  the 
cargo,  the  admiral  informed  our  captain,  that  the  Empe- 
ror Bonaparte  had  made  his  escape  from  the  island  of 
Elba.  This  unexpected  news  very  much  surprised  him, 
who  not  apprehending  such  an  occurrence,  exclaimed  as 
he  arose  from  his  chair,  "  Can  it  be  possible  ?"  The 
news  instantaneously  went  through  the  ship  and  produ- 
ced considerable  excitement  among  the  crew,  who  ap- 
prehended a  recommencement  of  hostilities.  After  the 
termination  of  the  visit,  the  admiral  left  the  ship  in  the 
usual  form  and  according  to  his  order  we  proceeded  to 
discharge  that  part  of  the  cargo  which  was  destined  for 
the  Spanish  fleet. 

Having  discharged  the  cargo  we  proceeded  to  Malta 
according  to  orders  and  arrived  there  in  safety  after 
having  enjoyed  a  prosperous  passage. 

After  our  arrival  we  made  no  delay,  but  immediately 
commenced  discharging  the  ship  ;  but  before  we  had  half 
performed  this  task  the  plague  broke  out  in  the  city 
and  town,  and  raged  to  such  a  degree,  that  thousands 
were  swept  away  as  with  a  torrent  to  the  world  of  spir- 
its. This  alarming  and  disastrous  disorder  interrupted 
our  employment,  and  broke  off  our  connection  with  the 
shore.  This  was  a  severe  trial  for  sea-faring  men;  to  be 
confined  within  the  wooden  walls  of  a  ship  and  at  no 
greater  distance  than  20  rods  from  the  shore,  was  more 
than  they  could  well  endure. 

This  destructive  malady  having  subsided  at  last  and 
the  fears  of  the  people  allayed,  we  again  commenced 
discharging  the  ship.  We  now  had  the  usual  privilege 


110  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

of  revisiting  the  shore  and  viewing  those  interesting  scenes 
in  which  we  had  taken  great  delight  on  a  former  occa- 
sion. I  was  highly  gratified  one  day  with  the  pomp 
of  one  of  those  catholic  processions  which  passed  within 
a  few  rods  of  the  ship.  It  was  conducted  in  the  same 
order  as  the  one  I  had  previously  witnessed  while  at 
Carthagena  in  Spain. 

Being  at  length  ready  for  sea  and  under  orders  for 
home  we  embraced  the  first  favorable  opportunity,  and 
after  a  passage  of  seven  weeks  we  arrived  at  Spithead, 
where  we  were  obliged,  although  all  hands  were  in 
good  health,  to  perform  a  vexatious  quarantine  of  forty 
days.  After  this'  detention,  having  smoked  and  purged 
the  old  ship,  we  weighed  anchor  and  proceeded  up  the 
the  harbor  to  the  arsenal  jetty,  where  we  discharged  the 
ship.  The  hired  men  were  paid  off  and  the  ship  was 
laid  up  with  the  remainder  of  the  crew  for  a  short  time, 
to  undergo  her  necessary  repairs  and  then  commenced 
talcing  in  cargo  again  for  Malta. 

During  the  voyage  I  had  been  advised  by  one  of  my 
mess-mates  to  leave  the  ship  if  I  intended  to  do  any 
thing  to  benefit  myself,  to  bind  myself  as  an  apprentice 
for  three  years  to  a  merchant  vessel,  in  order  to  become 
acquainted  with  a  mariner's  duty,  adding  that  I  was  a 
good  sized  boy  and  that  when  my  lime  expired  I 
should  be  sufficiently  large  to  go  before  the  mast  and 
command  a  man's  wages.  I  immediately  embraced  the 
idea  and  from  that  time  frequently  indulged  myself  with 
the  hope  of  being  liberated  from  a  king's  ship.  Fortu- 
nately for  us  boys,  we  were  paid  at  the  same  time  that 
the  hired  men  were.  Had  we  been  paid  as  on  a  former 
occasion  we  should  not  have  been  capable  of  carrying 
our  plan  into  operation,  as  we  were  penniless  at  the  time 
of  our  arrival  in  England. 


THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  Ill 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Escape  from  his  majesty's  ship  in  company  with  Ellis:  trials  at 
Post  Down  Hill  j  Robin  Hood's  forest  •  arrives  at  the  Elephant 
and  Castle,  London;  goes  to  Greenwich;  disappointed  in  not  find- 
ing my  parents  ;  sufferings  and  trials  at  London  ;  becomes  ac- 
quainted with  two  boys  who  had  been  paid  off  from  a  ship  of 
war  ;  after  suffering  privations,  finally  succeeds  in  obtaining  a 
ship  and  is  bound  apprentice. 

There  was  a  boy  on  board  whose  name  waa  Ellis.  His 
parents  resided  in  Greenwich.  This  boy  and  I  had  cul- 
tivated an  intimate  acquaintance.  One  day  as  we  were 
walking  on  shore  he  disclosed  his  intention  of  deserting 
the  ship,  and  making  his  way  home  if  possible.  I  then 
disclosed  my  intentions  to  him  of  leaving  the  ship  the 
first  opportunity  and  shipping  on  board  of  a  transport. 
He  advised  me  to  go  home  with  him  to  his  brother  arid 
assured  me  of  a  home  until  we  could  get  a  ship  to  go  to 
sea  together.  My  answer  was,  that  if  I  could  rely  on 
his  assurance  I  would  gladly  accept  of  his  offer.  Final- 
ly he  promised  so  well  and  pressed  me  so  earnestly,  that 
I  came  to  the  conclusion  to  accomprny  him  and  abide 
the  consequences.  Accordingly  we  laid  our  plan  in 
such  a  manner  as  would  excite  no  suspicion.  The  ship 
was  already  loaded  and  was  to  sail  in  two  or  three  days 
on  another  voyage.  This  we  considered  favorable  to 
us,  as  the  time  being  short,  it  would  ^ive  no  opportuni- 
ty of  sending  after  us. 

At  last  the  appointed  day  arrived.  It  was  Sunday. 
We  took  the  best  of  our  clothes  and  put  them  into  a 
bag.  1  had  two  common  chests  full  of  clothes  and  three 
uniform  hats  out  of  which  1  look  three  suits  of  blue  and 
a  few  other  things.  Our  bags  being  ready  we  tied  them 
together  and  secreted  them  in  a  dark  place,  ready  to  be 
lowered  down  into  the  boat  as  soon  as  she  arrived  under 
the  bow  port.  It  was  about  five  o'clock,  P.  M.,  and 


112  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

the  stage  was  to  start  for  London  at  7  o'clock,  and  we 
had  to  get  our  things  on  shore  with  a  boat,  and  no  boat 
was  allowed  to  come  along  side  of  the  ship.  We  were 
now  placed  in  a  very  precarious  situation,  having  to  pass 
through  the  dock-yard  gates  as  well^as  leave  the  ship, 
and  no  sailor  from  any  ship  was  allowed  to  pass  through 
excepting  with  an  officer,  or  by  his  pass.  Fortunately 
for  us,  we  being  boys,  had  been  in  the  habit  of  passing 
the  gates,  having  permission  to  pass  into  the  town  to  buy 
such  necessaries  as  our  masters  might  chance  to  want. 
This  was  favorable,  as  we  could  easily  make  an  excuse 
in  case  the  gate-keepers  should  make  an  attempt  to  stop 
us.  Ellis,  who  was  three  or  four  years  older  and  was 
better  acquainted  with  those  things  than  I  was,  went  on 
shore  at  5  o'clock  to  send  a  boat  off  for  our  clothing, 
with  the  precaution  to  drop  under  the  bow  unobserved- 
ly  by  the  sentry  and  that  he  would  find  some  one  there 
who  would  be  ready  to  drop  the  bags  into  the  boat.  I 
was  to  watch  for  the  boat  and  make  a  signal  for  her  to 
drop  under  the  bow,  and  then  after  having  deposited  the 
clothing  in  her  I  was  to  watch  for  an  opportunity  to  leave 
the  ship  and  make  the  best  of  my  way  out  of  the  navy 
yard  into  the  city,  where  I  should  meet  the  stage  at  the 
sign  of  the  ^heerhulk.  With  deep  anxiety  I  watched 
for  the  boat,  it  was  nearly  six  when  she  came  under  the 
bow  and  I  dropped  the  bags  and  she  started  off  unob- 
served by  the  sentinel  for  Common-head  which  was  op- 
posite the  Sheerhulk  where  Ellis  was  to  meet  her  and 
take  off  our  clothes. 

Now  came  with  me  "the  tug  of  war."  The  officers 
were  walking  on  the  quarter  deck  and  the  sentinel  on 
the  jetty,  I  stood  by  the  forechesty  watching  for  an  op- 
portunity to  escape.  The  ship  was  then  level  with  the 
jetty  and  I  could  easily  step  on  shore  from  her.  It  was 
now  nearly  dark  and  my  heart  beat  with  deep  anxiety 
for  fear,  that  the  stage  would  leave  me  behind.  At  last 
the  officers  went  down  to  their  tea  and  in  a  little  while 
the  sentinel  walked  toward  the  sentry  box,when  I  imme- 
diately embraced  the  favorable  opportunity,  stepped  on 
shore  and  before  the  sentinel  could  turn  round  I  reach- 
ed a  heap  of  limber,  which  was  lying  on  the  jetty  and 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH. 


which  reached  along  to  a  small  building  some  distance 
from  the  ship.  Having  got  safely  behind  the  timber  I 
watched  the  sentinel  for  a  minute  or  two  and  then  gain- 
ed the  rear  of  the  building  where  I  was  hid  from  his  vis- 
ion. I  now  run  all  the  way  to  the  gates,  which  was 
over  three  quarters  of  a  mile.  But  here  there  was  an- 
other difficulty  to  encounter  and  that  was  the  gate-keep- 
ers ;  fortunately  for  me,  however,  they  did  not  as  much 
as  speak  to  me  ;  but  if  they  had,  [  had  a  story  made  up 
for  them.  It  was  this  :  that  my  master's  lady  had  been 
taken  suddenly  ill  and  he  sent  me  for  some  medicines 
for  her.  This  I  thought  would  pass. 

I  had  just  got  through  the  gates  when  Ellis  mef  me. 
"  Come,"  said  he,  "  we  are  waiting  for  you  ;"  and  led 
me  to  the  coach  which  was  not  more  than  five  rods  from 
the  gates.  It  was  now  dark  and  we  had  scarcely  got  -to 
the  coach  when  a  boy  by  the  name  of  Knights,  who  had 
been  watching  our  movements,  came  butt  against  us. 
"Holloa,"  said  the  driver,  "are  you  going  too?" 
11  Yes,"  was  the  reply.  "Jump  up  then,"  said  he  and 
away  we  drove  for  London.  We  had  not  gone  over  a 
mile  or  two  before  the  guard  of  the  coach  who  sat  with 
us  in  the  after  part  of  the  coach,  inquired  if  we 
had  a  liberty  ticket.  We  answered  in  the  negative. 
This  gave  him  to  understand  that  we  were  deser- 
ters. "  Then,3'  said  he,  "  I  don't  know  how  you  will 
be  able  to  manage  it,  to  pass  the  press  gangs  without 
detection."  Here  was  a  difficulty  which  we  very  much 
feared,  though  we  had  calculated  on  it  before  we  took 
the  dangerous  step.  We  had  previously  concluded  not 
to  deny  the  name  of  the  ship,  and  if  required  to  pre- 
sent a  liberty  ticket  we  were  to  answer  that  we  had 
not  any,  as  our  captain  had  gone  to  Scotland  arid  the 
second  master  from  whom  we  had  obtained  our  liberty 
thought  that  there  was  no  necessity  for  us  boys  to  have 
one,and  particularly  as  we  were  volunteers  in  the  service  ; 
and  only  going  away  to  stay  for  a  week.  By  these  ans- 
wers we  expected  to  succeed  in  getting  clear. 

We  soon  came  to  Newtown,  joining  Portsmouth  ; 
here  we  stopped  at  two  or  three  places  for  passengers, 
and  after  leaving  it,  we  had  to  pass  over  a  bridge  on 
15 


114  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

which  a  press-gang  was  stationed.  To  avoid  this  danger 
the  guard  advised  us  to  get  off  and  walk  over  the  bridge; 
and  as  the  evening  was  dark  they  would  not  be  likely 
to  hear  or  see  us,  and  if  they  did  we  could  tell  them  that 
we  were  ashore  on  liberty.  This  course  was  less 
liable  to  suspicion  than  riding  on  the  stage,  which  they 
were  sure  to  examine  and  all  that  rode  in  it. 

To  this  proposition  we  instantly  agreed  and  according- 
ly we  walked  over  the  the  bridge  unobserved  by  any  of 
the  gang,  but  at  the  time,  felt  a  deep  anxiety  for  our  pre- 
servation, which  led  us  to  walk  with  great  caution  so  as 
not  to  betray  ourselves.  We  walked  about  half  a  mile's 
distance  before  the  stage  came  up  to  take  us  in.  It  was 
midnight  when  we  arrived  at  Post-down-hill  and  at  a  little 
distance  from  its  base  was  an  inn,  where  another  press- 
gang  was  stationed.  The  road  is  on  the  left  of  the  hill, 
as  you  go  toward  London.  The  brow  and  summit  are 
above  you  on  the  right  and  the  road  continues  to  encir- 
cle the  hill  as  it  descends  to  the  level  plain.  On  the  left 
of  the  hill  was  a  valley  full  of  trees,  and  extending  into 
the  plain,  and  across  the  valley  was  a  wall  from  ten  to 
twelve  feet  high.  It  was  deemed  advisable  by  the  guard 
that  in  order  to  escape  detection  we  should  alight,  cross 
over  this  wall  and  then  proceed  among  the  trees  over 
hedges  and  ditches,  keeping  the  main  road  on  our  right 
at  the  same  time,  until  we  should  pass  the  inn  at  which 
the  stage  was  to  stop  to  refresh  the  passengers  and  change 
horses.  After  passing  the  inn  we  were  to  turn  into  the 
road  where  the  stage  was  to  take  us  up.  But  in  case 
that  we  should  happen  to  miss  our  way  and  not  come 
out  to  the  road  so  soon  as  it  was  expected,  he  pledged 
his  honor  that  he  would  stop  the  stage  and  blow  his  horn 
as  a  signal. 

Accordingly  we  alighted  when  the  stage  was  about  half 
way  down  the  hill,  and  at  no  great  di&ance  from  the  wall. 
We  descended  by  the  side  of  the  hill  and  proceeded 
among  the  trees  to  the  wall.  We  were  very  much  puz- 
zled to  find  a  place  to  mount  it.  After  separating  our- 
selves along  the  wall  for  the  purpose  of  examining  it, 
Knights  discovered  a  sloping  projection.  He  informed 
us  of  it,  and  we  hastened  to  the  spot  with  all  possible 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  115 

speed  and  commenced  climbing  the  slope,  which  was 
about  two  feet  wide.  We  soon  succeeded  in  gaining 
the  summit.  We  were  then  at  a  loss  to  know  how  to 
get  down,  as  we  were  totally  unacquainted  with  the 
depth  and  the  ground  on  which  we  had  to  jump.  We 
conceived  the  idea  of  tying  all  our  handkerchiefs  to- 
gether, for  the  lightest  of  us  to  descend,  and  as  I  was 
the  smallest  and  the  youngest,  1  was  chosen  for  that 
purpose,  and  accordingly  descended  to  the  ground, 
which  was  too  hard  and  too  far  for  them  to  jump.  I 
went  a  short  distance  along  the  wall  and  found  a  suitable 
place  for  them  to  descend  without  injury. 

The  rattling  of  the  wheels  and  crackling  of  (he  whip 
echoing  through  the  valley,  soon  announced  to  us  that 
the  stage  had  staid  at  the  inn  the  usual  time  and  was 
again  on  its  way.  At  this  our  hearts  beat  with  fear  of 
being  left  behind,  as  we  ran  from  tree  to  tree  and  from 
hedge  to  ditch.  The  rattling  of  the  wheels  ceased  and 
the  echo  of  the  guard's  horn  was  heard.  It  was  a 
cheering  sound  to  our  desponding  spirits,  as  we  were  on 
the  point  of  giving  up  all  as  lost.  We  still  pressed  for- 
ward with  redoubled  diligence  through  the  thorn  hedges 
to  reach  the  object  which  we  had  in  view,  the  main  road. 
At  last  our  effort  was  crowned  with  success.  Rejoicing 
at  our  deliverance,  \\e  again  mounted  on  the  stage  coach. 
We  were  more  than  thankful  for  the  kind  advice  and  at- 
tention which  we  had  received  from  our  philanthropic 
guard,  who  had  been  the  means  of  our  safety  and  es- 
cape from  the  grasp  of  the  tyrants,  who  fain  would  have 
enslaved  us  against  our  will. 

We  rode  on  merrily  for  the  remainder  of  the  night. 
At  break  of  day,  we  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  Rob- 
in Hood's  forest ;  and  we  were  informed  by  the  guard 
that  this  extensive  forest  was  the  one  occupied  some 
centuries  ago  by  the  intrepid  Robin  Hood  and  his  gang. 
This  forest  is  about  one  mile  off  from  the  Ports- 
mouth road,  at  a  distance  of  about  fifteen  or  twenty  miles 
from  London ;  and  as  far  as  I  could  discover,  occupied 
a  pleasant  and  level  position  of  ground.  About  six  or 
seven  o'clock,  we  arrived  at  Elephant's  Castle  in 


116  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

Southwark,  London,  where  we  alighted,  this  being  the 
place  lor  the  coach  to  put  up. 

The  guard  reminded  us  of  the  customary  obligations 
of  passengers  to  him  and  the  coachman,  for  which  he 
said  we  ought  to  make  them  compensation.  According- 
ly we  rewarded  him  with  9  shillings  for  his  philanthro- 
py, and  the  coachman  3  shillings  for  his  fidelity  and 
caution  in  the  management  of  the  horses. 

Knights  who  was  going  to  Chatham,  immediately  got 
on  the  stage,  which  was  then  ready  to  start  for  that 
town.  We  parted  and  I  have  never  seen  him  since. 
Ellis  and  I  indulged  ourselves  with  walking  about  and 
viewing  the  city  until  the  afternoon,  and  then  we  took 
the  stage  for  Greenwich. 

We  arrived  at  Ellis' brother's  house,  which  was  in  East- 
street,  East  Greenwich,  and  there  took  up  our  residence 
for  the  present.  I  had  not  been  there  long  before  1  as- 
certained that  Mr.  Ellis  was  merely  a  lodger  in  the  house, 
and  not  the  landlord,  as  he  had  been  represented  to  me 
previous  to  my  departure  from  the  ship.  Mr.  Ellis  oc- 
cupied one  room  and  boarded  himself.  He  was  kind 
enough  to  accommodate  us  with  lodgings,  while  we 
boarded  ourselves  in  the  best  way  that  we  could. 

When  we  arrived  at  London  it  was  about  the  time  of 
the  fairs,  which  are  yearly  held  in  that  vicinity,  and 
among  these  (he  celebrated  Greeenwich  fair  was  to  com- 
mence on  the  following  Monday.  1  was  highly  gratified 
to  hear  of  this,  as  I  anticipated  the  hilarity  of  the  occa- 
sion. The  day  after  my  arrival  in  Greenwich,  I  was  ac- 
companied by  Ellis  to  Lewisham  to  see  if  1  could  dis- 
cover my  mother  and  grand-parents. 

My  heart  thrilled  with  joyful  emotions  as  1  approach- 
ed the  town  of  my  nativity,  with  the  fond  hope  of  once 
more  meeting  and  beholding  my  parents,  after  an  ab- 
sence of  six  years.  But  alas  !  after  diligent  inquiry  all 
over  the  neighborhood,  we  at  last  ascertained  that  my 
grandfather  died  two  years  subsequent  to  my  departure. 
My  grandmother  and  mother  returned  to  Northumber- 
land deeply  afflicted,  among  their  friends,  despairing  of 
ever  seeing  me  again.  Pensive  and  sadly  disappointed, 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  117 

1  returned  to  my  lodgings  to  mourn  my  loss ;  but  the 
buoyancy  of  youth  soon  overcame  my  sadness.  After 
venting  my  feelings  with  a  flood  of  tears  I  again  united 
in  the  amusements  of  my  associates,  and  have  never 
since  had  the  means  nor  opportunity  of  knowing  where 
they  are,  or  whether  dead  or  alive. 

The  time  previous  to  the  arrival  of  the  fair,  wre  spent 
in  visiting  various  parts  of  the  town  and  vicinity,  in 
which  excursions  we  acquired  much  information,  min- 
gled with  a  degree  of  exalted  gratification.  At  last  the 
appointed  day  of  the  fair  arrived.  It  was  hailed  by  our 
youthful  hearts  with  congratulations.  Early  in  the  morn- 
ing we  visited  the  scene  of  bustle  to  witness  the  erection 
of  swings  and  show-stands.  Early  in  the  afternoon  the 
multitude  commenced  assembling,  and  at  4  P.  M.  the 
fair-ground  was  literally  crowded  with  persons  of  both 
sexes  and  all  ages.  The  park  is  near, — the  gates  of 
which  being  thrown  open  on  such  occasions — it  \vns 
at  this  time  visited  by  thousands  and  thousands  of  the  in- 
habitants of  London. 

We  spent  three  clays  in  visiting  the  various  shows,  arid 
swinging  in  the  lofty  swings,  an  excercise  fraught  with 
danger,  but  in  which  we  took  great  delight. 

We  next  visited  Bow  fair,  7  miles  from  there,  and  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  The  first  day  we  were 
so  much  pleased  with  its  various  amusements,  that,  like 
hundreds  of  others,  we  totally  neglected  to  provide  lodg- 
ings for  the  night.  We  left  this  scene  of  bustle  at  12 
o'clock  at  night,  and  then  we  had  to  ride  about  three 
miles  before  our  arrival  at  the  city.  At  half  past  12, 
we  alighted  near  White  Chapel.  Not  a  house  was  open, 
nor  a  light  to  be  seen,  except  the  street-lights  and 
that  of  the  watchman's  lantern,  and  where  to  go  to 
we  did  not  know.  We  walked  through  the  streets 
to  obtain  a  night's  lodging,  not  knowing  of  whom  to  in- 
quire, or  where  we  might  b^  accommodated.  We  walk- 
ed along  with  dejected  spirits,  and  quite  at  a  loss  to  know 
what  to  do.  At  last,  accidentally,  we  came  in  contact 
with  Orgeat  pump,  where  we  refreshed  our  drooping  spir- 
its with  a  cool  draught.  While  at  the  pump,  a  wateri- 
ng n,  going  his  rounds,  interrogated  us,  as  other's  had 


118  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

done,  and  while  talking  with  him,  a  tall,  lusty  and 
rough  looking  old  woman  came  stepping  along  and  as 
she  was  passing  by  us,  the  watchman  spoke  to 
her  and  asked  if  she  could  make  it  convenient  to  lodge 
us  for  that  night.  She  replied  in  the  affirmative,  and 
accordingly  we  were  led  by  her  through  a  number  of 
narrow  and  crooked  lanes  into  a  back  street,  which  was 
dark  and  lonesome.  When  we  got  to  the  door  we  were 
commanded  to  take  our  shoes  off;  we  did  so,  and  fol- 
lowed the  old  woman  up  one  pair  of  stairs  in  the  dark 
without  lisping  a  word.  When  we  reached  the  top, 
we  stood  still  until  a  light  was  got,  then  we  were  led 
into  a  large  room  which  was  close  by  the  stairs.  We 
looked  around  us  to  see  where  vve  had  landed,  and  the 
first  thing  which  attracted  our  attention  was  a  matress 
made  up  on  the  floor.  The  room  was  furnished  with  two 
old  chairs,  one  table  and  a  short  bench.  The  room 
was  the  picture  of  poverty.  The  old  lady's  appearance 
was  neat,  but  her  countenance  depicted  many  years  of 
sorrow  and  grief.  She  informed  us,  that  the  bed  on 
the  floor  was  the  only  lodging  that  she  had  to  of- 
fer us,  and  to  it  vve  were  heartily  welcome.  We  de- 
clined the  offer,  feeling  no  disposition  to  go  to  bed.  It 
was  a  suspicious  looking  place  ;  and  we  chose  rather  to 
set  up  the  remainder  of  the  night,  as  it  was  2  o'clock, 
and  we  felt  anxious  to  get  clear  of  this  place  by  the 
break  of  day. 

At  day-break,  after  spending  a  night  of  fearful  anxie- 
ty for  our  preservation  under  the  protection  of  the  old 
lady,  we  gladly  took  our  final  departure,  after  paying  two 
shillings  for  our  lodging.  We  again  visited  the  fair,  and 
frequently  the  city,  but  always  had  the  precaution  to 
engage  our  lodging  for  the  night  as  soon  as  we  arrived 
in  the  city.  1  spent  two  weeks  in  attending  these  fairs 
and  other  amusements,  which  drew  more  than  half  of 
my  little  store  out  of  my  pocket.  1  became  familiarly 
acquainted  with  the  town  boys,  with  whom  I  usually  as- 
sociated, and  participated  in  all  their  amusements.  In 
this  manner  I  spent  several  weeks  without  making  the 
least  effort  to  obtain  a  situation  on  ship-board,  boy  like, 
and  thoughtless  of  the  future.  But  my  money  was  soon 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  119 

gone,  which  led  us  to  look  for  a  ship  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible. Accordingly,  we  commenced  a  course  of  inquiry 
through  the  docks,  on  board  of  every  vessel  that  lay  in 
our  way,  but  all  in  vain.  A  more  unfavorable  time  for 
seamen  had  not  been  known  in  London.  The  cause 
which  led  to  so  much  suffering  and  distress  among  the 
seamen  was  the  disarmament  of  the  navy  and  the  non- 
employment  of  the  transports.  This  threw  thousands  of 
seamen  out  of  employment.  It  was  estimated  that  there 
was  in  London  at  that  time  over  30,000  seamen.  When 
they  were  paid  off  from  the  ships  of  war  they  had  money 
in  abundance,  but  spent  it  foolishly,  and  freely  as  wa- 
ter runs  to  a  level. 

The  scarcity  of  employment,  led  them  to  adopt  a  plan 
altogether  unjustifiable,  and  that  was  to  form  themselves 
into  that  ever  memorable  Blue  Ribbon  Gang,  which 
was  the  means  of  banishing  thousands  of  foreign  seamen 
out  of  the  land.  They  marched  daily  for  several  weeks 
through  every  dock  and  examined  every  vessel  afloat  in 
the  river  or  in  the  dock  ;  and  if  they  found  any  foreign- 
ers on  board,  they  immediately  compelled  them  to  leave 
the  ships,  and  forbid  their  shipping  in  any  English  vessel 
again.  But  in  this  they  made  one  exception,  and  that 
was  in  favor  of  all  foreigners  who  had  served  on  board  of 
his  Brittanic  Majesty's  ship  three  years  and  could  show 
a  certificate  to  that  effect. 

We  continued  our  daily  exertions  for  several  weeks  in 
succession,  traveling  from  six  to  seven  miles  per  day 
without  receiving  the  least  encouragement.  Being  now 
out  of  funds  we  were  under  the  necessity  of  pawning  all 
the  best  of  our  clothes,  piece  by  piece  to  supply  the  de- 
mands of  nature. 

1  had  been  more  frugal  with  my  money  than  Ellis  ; 
and  in  all  probability  I  should  not  have  been  driven 
to  this  necessity,  had  1  not  been  grossly  imposed  upon 
by  Ellis'  brother,  who  took  the  liberty  one  morning  to 
rob  me,  before  my  eyes  of  a  £2  note.  1  was  a  small 
boy,  and  among  strangers,  and  dared  not  open  my  mouth 
about  it.  After  suffering  a  great  deal  from  poverty,  we  at 
last  fell  in  with  a  ship  in  Deptford,  in  a  dry  dock,  bound 
to  Russia.  We  shipped  on  board  of  h'er  while  she  was 


120  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

in  the  dock,  with  the  design  to  go  the  voyage  in  her, 
but  unjustifiable  conduct  of  Ellis  toward  me,  who 
threatened  to  turn  me  out  of  his  brother's  house  as  he 
termed  it,  without  any  just  cause,  so  affected  my  feel- 
ings, that  I  resolved,  within  myself,  not  to  sail  in  the 
ship  with  him. 

1  was  on  board  four  weeks  previous  to  her  departure. 
The  day  before  her  sailing  down  the  river  we  were  paid 
our  advance  money, — but  it  was  no  advance  to  us 
boys,  having  already  labored  on  board  for  one  month. 
I  received  one  pound,  which  was  the  wages  that  I  was 
to  have  per  month.  The  ship  being  in  the  river,  it  was 
necessary  for  us  to  go  on  shore  to  bring  our  things  on 
board,  as  she  was  to  sail  with  the  ebb-tide  tho  following 
morning.  Accordingly  .  1  went  on  shore  with  the  other 
boys,  leaving  the  mate  to  expect  my  return  early  in  the 
morning ;  but  he  saw  me  no  more.  That  pledge  I  have 
not  had  the  pleasure  of  fulfilling,  nor  have  I  ever  seen 
Ellis  since. 

After  this  I  associated  with  one  Davis,  a  boy  who  re- 
sided in  the  same  street,  and  who  desired  to  go  to  sea. 
We  traveled  for  several  weeks  in  succession  from  twelve 
to  fourteen  miles  per  day,  endeavoring  to  obtain  a  vessel 
together,  but  to  no  effect.  The  pound  which  I  had  re- 
ceived for  iny  labor,  notwithstanding  my  economy  in 
having  allowanced  myself  with  three  penny-loaves  per  day 
and  a  little  butter,  had  slowly  ebbed  away  and  left  me 
pennyless  and  poorly  clad.  The  lady  of  the  house  be- 
came acquainted  with  my  distress,  and  frequently  ad- 
ministered to  my  necessities,  by  giving  me  my  breakfast 
before  I  started,  and  sometimes,  a  morsel  of  supper  when 
I  returned  for  which  I  was  very  grateful. 

One  day,  while  going  our  rounds  in  the  London  docks, 
I  fell  in  with  the  gunner's  mate,  belonging  to  the  naval 
ship  that  1  had  deserted.  He  had  been  paid  off  from 
the  service.  He  inquired  about  my  circumstances,  and 
I  gave  him  satisfactory  information  in  that  respect.  He 
then  took  us  to  a  public  house  which  was  near,  and  pro- 
vided a  bed  for  us  for  the  night  and  as  much  bread  and 
cheese  as  we  could  eat,  with  a  quart  of  strong  beer. 

Previous  to  his  leaving  us  he  requested  me  to  call  at 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  121 

his  house,  which  he  had  before  shown  to  me,  at  8  o'clock 
in  the  morning.  1  did  so,  and  he  took  us  to  a  public 
house  and  provided  a  sumptuous  breakfast  for  us.  Af- 
ter breakfast  he  took  us  with  him  on  board  of  several 
vessels,  and  endeavored  to  the  utmost  in  his  power,  to  as- 
assist  us  to  a  ship,  but  without  effect.  On  the  following  day, 
we  renewed  our  exertions  ;  he  took  us  to  the  exchange, 
where  he  met  with  several  ship-masters,  of  whom  he  in- 
quired if  they  wanted  a  couple  of  smart  boys,  as  appren- 
tices. At  last,  he  fell  in  with  a  captain  of  a  little  brig 
going,  a  cod-fishing  on  the  banks  of  Newfoundland,  who 
wanted  an  apprentice.  I  agreed  with  him  on  the  spot, 
and  on  the  following  day  went  on  board,  accompanied 
by  Davis.  I  staid  on  board  of  her  four  or  five  days  and 
then  left,  having  previously  shipped  on  board  of  the 
Alfred,  bound  to  the  West  Indies. 

Davis  and  I  worked  on  board  of  the  Alfred  by  the 
week,  until  the  ship  should  get  ready  for  the  voyage. 
We  staid  on  board  6  or  7  weeks  and  then  we  were 
discharged,  the  ship's  intended  voyage  being  delayed 
for  some  weeks.  When  I  was  paid  off  from  this  ship 
1  received  9  shillings.  Out  of  this  sum  I  paid  the  lady 
of  the  house  5  shillings  as  a  compensation  for  administer- 
ing to  my  necessities,  with  which  she  seemed  to  be  well 
pleased.  With  the  remainder,  1  redeemed  somo  of  my 
clothing,  and  supplied  the  necessary  demands  of  na- 
ture until  I  obtained  a  situation  in  another  ship. 

About  this  time  I  became  acquainted  with  two  boys 
who  had  been  paid  from  the  Elizabeth  74.  I  had  some 
slight  recollection  of  having  seen  them  while  lying  at  the 
rock  of  Gibraltar.  They,  like  myself  were  orphans,  and 
one  of  them  had  been  denied  even  the  knowledge  of  his 
parents.  We  mutually  participated  in  each  other's  com- 
pany in  our  boyish  amusements,  and  in  endeavoring  to 
obtain  a  ship  to  sail  together,  which  we  finally  ac- 
complished after  two  weeks  exertions.  The  ship's  name 
was  the  Norfolk,  of  London,  and  belonged  to  Ebenezer 
Thompson, Esq.  of  Rotherhithe,  Southwark.  She  was  a 
French  built  ship-of-war,  a  very  fast  sailer  of  650  tons, 
and  pierced  for  4*2  guns.  The  report  was  that  she  was 
going  on  the  coast  of  Africa  for  gold  dust  and  ivory. 
16 


122  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

We  were  bound  apprentices  for  three  years,  for  which 
time  and  services  we  were  to  be  compensated  with  £33, 
a  sum  which  experience  taught  us,  was  inadequate  to 
supply  us  with  the  necessary  clothing  for  the  time 
specified.  We  both  were  highly  gratified  that  we  had 
been  so  fortunate  as  to  obtain  a  situation  on  board  so 
large  and  beautiful  a  ship,  with  whose  intended  voy- 
age we  were  enraptured.  Our  youthful  minds  were 
highly  delighted  and  exalted  with  the  false  visions  of 
wealth  and  prosperity,  in  the  continuation  of  these  voy- 
ages. But  our  young  and  credulous  minds  were  soon 
brought  by  actual  experience  to  discover  our  delusion. 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  123 


CHAPTER  X. 

Departure  for  the  island  of  Georgia  ;  arrival  at  the  Isle  of  May  ; 
disappointed  in  ihe  voyage  of  the  ship  ;  comes  to  an  anchor 
in  Royal  Sound  Bay  ;  attacking  the  sea  Elephants  ;  des- 
cription of  the  island  ;  a  man  lost  in  the  icebergs ;  tremendous 
falling  of  icebergs;  floating  icebergs;  the  Elephant  season ;  the 
proceedings  of  the  Elephant  while  on  shore  ;  the  Seal  season  ; 
manner  of  obtaining  our  cargo  :  our  sufferings  ;  the  boat 
blown  into  the  air  ;  starving  condition  of  the  boat's  crew  ; 
arrival  at  the  ship  ;  proceeds  to  the  east  end  of  the  island  ;  win- 
ter's retreat  to  the  ship  ;  the  snow  falls ;  Sealing  during  winter  ; 
sufferings  of  the  boat's  crew  ;  sleeping  in  a  cavern  ;  sleeping  on 
the  ice  ;  Spring  prosperity ;  loss  of  the  small  shallop ;  succeeds 
in  obtaining  a  cargo ;  departure  for  England  ;  suffering  of  the 
author;  encounters  a  gale  and  the  ship  springs  a  teak,  400  strokes 
per  hour  ;  arrives  at  Rio  Janeiro ;  stops  the  leak  and  proceeds 
home  ;  description  of  the  city  and  harbor  of  Rio  Janeiro;  makes 
lands-end  ;  arrives  at  London. 

SEVENTH    VOYAGE. 

The  ship  was  fitted  out  in  the  best  possible  manner ; 
she  had  eight  boats  and  two  shallops,  one  of  24  tons 
which  was  half  built,  the  other  36  was  carried  out  in 
frame.  Her  crew  consisted  of  52  persons,  36  stout, 
able  bodied  and  well  experienced  seamen,  including  the 
officers,  and  16  apprentices,  the  most  of  them  brought 
up  at  sea  from  early  life. 

The  ship  being  now  ready  for  sea  and  having  her  pi- 
lot on  board,  with  a  fair  wind  and  tide,  she  steadily  gli- 
ded by  the  banks  of  the  serpentine  Thames. 

We  came  to  anchor  at  Gravesend,  where  the  crew 
was  paid  their  advance  and  on  the  following  day  with  a 
merry  song  and  cheerful  hearts  we  spread  every  sail  to 
the  favorable  breeze,  which  soon  wafted  our  gallant  ship 
into  the  blue  waters,  beyond  lands-end.  We  pro- 
ceeded on  our  voyage  until  we  arrived  at  the  Isle  of 


124  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

May,  where  we  came  to  anchor  to  take  in  salt  to  use  on 
seal  skins  which  were  to  be  part  of  our  cargo. 

Until  now,  I,  and  many  of  the  boys  had  been  in  total 
ignorance  with  regard  to  the  ship's  port  of  destination  or 
the  nature  of  her  voyage.  Some  of  us  had  still  cherish- 
ed the  idea  that  the  ship  was  bound  to  the  coast  of  Af- 
rica, and  this  was  strengthened  by  listening  to  the  fre- 
quent conversation  which  the  men  held  about  kill- 
ing huge  elephants  with  lances  and  shooting  them. 
But  the  ship  having  put  into  port  for  salt,  led  us  to  in- 
quire the  particular  use  that  \ve  had  for  such  a  quantity 
of  this  article  as  we  had  taken  in.  We  now  ascertain- 
ed that  the  ship  was  e;oing  to  South  Georgia,  for 
sea  elephants  and  seals.  This  was  an  island  that  was 
known  by  only  two  persons  on  board;  the  captain  and 
a  foremast  hand.  It  is  situated  in  the  55th  degree  of 
south  latitude  and  36  west  longitude.  The  Isle  of  May 
is  one  of  the  Cape  de  Verd  Islands,  which  belongs  to 
the  Portuguese.  It  is  a  poor  island,  destitute  of  a  good 
harbor  and  its  produce  is  chiefly  salt. 

Having  accomplished  our  purpose  in  this  port  we 
again  weighed  anchor  and  stretched  our  course  toward 
the  South  Pole.  We  passed  the  island  of  St.  Jago  on 
the  right,  and  the  next  evening  Tera  del  Fuego,  the 
English  of  which  is  Jire.  It  delves  its  name  from  a 
lofty  volcano,  from  whose  summit  issues  double  volumes 
of  curling,  scarlet  flarries,  which  attracts  the  attention  of 
the  passing  mariner. 

On  the  following  morning  we  made  the  Isle  of  Brava, 
which  signifies  fig  island.  Here  we  took  in  some  live 
stock  and  then  steered  our  course  again  for  the  South. 

We  continued  on  our  voyage  without  interruption  or 
discovering  any  thing  except  a  strange  sail,  which  ap- 
peared now  and  then  at  a  great  distance  off. 

Having  reached  the  45th  degree  of  south  latitude, 
our  captain  deemed  it  advisable  for  the  safety  of  the  ship, 
to  have  four  constantly  looking  out  for  icebergs,  as  there 
are  a  great  many  floating  about  to  the  eastward  of  Cape 
Horn.  The  look-outs  were  stationed,2  on  the  forecastle 
and  2  on  the  foreyard.  But  fortunately  we  did  not 
come  any  where  near  them,  though  we  past  a  great  ma- 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  125 

ny  at  a  distance,  towering  up  from  1  to  200  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea. 

We  had  now  got  so  near  the  island  that  we  were  in 
anxious  and  daily  expectations  of  making  this  wonderful 
land  of  ice,  rocks  and  snow.  At  last  we  made  the  Bird 
Islands,  three  in  number  and  which  are  situated  at  the 
west  end  of  the  large  island. 

It  was  in  December  that  we  made  land,  and  it  being 
the  first  month  of  summer,  the  lower  lands  were  nearly 
clear  of  snow  and  exhibited  at  various  places  a  degree  of 
verdure,  which  was  pleasing  and  agreeable  to  the  mind, 
while  the  upper  part  from  the  peaks  of  the  mountains, 
half  way  to  the  sea-shore  were  covered  with  ice  and 
snow,  indicating  the  severity  of  the  winter  season. 
We  sailed  along  the  land  until  we  arrived  off  the  Royal 
Sound  Bay,  which  was  the  place  of  our  destination  for 
the  season.  Off  ihis  bay  we  were  under  the  indis- 
pensable necessity  of  bringing  the  ship  too  for  the  night, 
in  consequence  of  the  unfavorableness  of  the  wind  and 
the  darkness  of  the  night  which  prevented  us  from  get- 
ting our  ship  into  a  safe  anchorage.  Early  on  the  fol- 
lowing morning,  the  wind  being  more  favorable,  we 
steered  our  course  into  the  bay  and  at  last  came  to  an- 
chor in  safety,  in  the  basin,  a  place  in  which  the  ship  laid 
perfectly  landlocked  and  sheltered  from  the  roughness 
of  the  sea  and  the  severity  of  the  winds. 

We  immediately  proceeded  to  secure  the  ship  for  the 
summer  and  winter  seasons;  this  we  soon  accomplished 
by  mooring  her  with  two  anchors  ahead  and  two  astern, 
and  striking  down  all  her  masts  and  yards  except  the 
lower  masts.  Having  accomplished  this  we  next  pro- 
ceeded to  haul  up  the  shallop  on  shore,  which  was  part- 
ly built  to  finish  her  ;  and  to  put  the  other  on  the 
stocks  as  soon  as  possible.  My  curiosity,  was  more  than 
gratified  on  the  morning  of  our  first  landing  on  Shallop 
point.  This  was  the  name  of  a  low  point  of  land  within 
the  basin,  generally  used  by  ships  to  setup  theic  shallops 
and  to  store  all  their  spare  boats  casks  and  shocks. 

We  proceeded  toward  the  shore  in  two  boats  fully 
manned,  commanded  by  our  chief  mate  and  boatswain, 
the  only  two  acquainted  with  the  mode  of  attacking  and 


126  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

killing  those  amphibious  animals.  After  landing,  by  the 
command  of  our  mate  we  advanced  with  our  lances  and 
clubs  to  the  appointed  place  of  slaughter,  i  walked 
rather  in  the  rear  of  the  men  imagining  to  myself  what 
shape  these  creatures  could  be  in.  for  as  yet,  I  had  not 
been  favored  with  an  opportunity  of  seeing  one  of  them. 
I  was  soon  relieved  from  my  anxiety  by  an  immediate 
attack  on  the  elephants,  which  to  my  astonishment  and 
disappointment  we  found  lying  down  asleep  between  the 
bogs.  I  took  my  position  on  one  of  the  bogs  to  have  a 
good  view  of  them  and  to  keep  out  of  danger,  not  know- 
ing how  they  would  act  on  being  attacked  by  the  boat's 
crew  who  were  led  on  by  the  mate  and  boatswain.  As 
soon  as  the  attack  was  made  on  them  in  different  posi- 
tions, they  all,  being  about  sixty  in  number,  commenc- 
ed snorting  and  some  of  them  roaring,  at  the  same  time 
the  most  of  them  were  endeavoring  to  make  their  es- 
cape into  the  water.  Poor  innocent  animals !  I  could 
not  but  pity  them,  seeing  the  large  tears  rolling  down 
from  their  eyes ;  they  were  slaughtered  without  mercy. 

While  the  carpenters  were  building  the  shallops,  six 
boats  were  manned  and  sent  far  and  near  after  all  the 
elephants  that  could  possibly  be  found.  In  this  manner 
50  tons  of  oil  were  got  on  board  of  the  ship  during  the 
time  that  the  shallops  were  building,  which  was  four 
weeks. 

The  island  of  South  Georgia  is  about  120  miles  in 
length  while  its  extreme  breadth  does  not  exceed  1*2 
miles.  It  exhibits  a  ridge  of  high  and  terrific  mountains 
which  extend  from  one  end  of  the  island  to  the  other 
and  which  gradually  descends  and  breaks  off  in  a 
thousand  different  forms  toward  the  sea.  In  the 
winter  and  spring  it  resembles  an  immense  iceberg 
from  its  summit  to  its  base.  Its  appearance  is  sufficient 
to  cause  a  stout-hearted  man  to  shiver  with  cold  antici- 
pations. The  island  presents  a  bold,  terrific  and  iron 
bound  shore  with  many  dangerous  reefs  and  sunken 
rocks  projecting  into  the  sea.  It  abounds  with  large 
bays,  which  are  22  in  number;  14  on  the  north  side, 
which  are  remarkable  for  their  safe  harbors.  The  south 
side  has  eight  bays  which  possess  very  unsafe  and  dan- 
gerous harbors  for  vessels  to  ride  in.  Out  of  22  bays 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  127 

there  are   fifteen  which   contain  icebergs  of  the  bluest 
kind  at  their  heads.     The  average  sizes  of  which  can 
be  no  less  than  a  mile  in  breadth  and  four  miles  in  length 
in  proportion  as  the    creeks,  in  which   they  are  formed 
extend   in-land   between   the   mountains.      The  depth 
must  be  from  100  to    1000  feet,  as  some  of  them  rise 
level  with  the  summit  of  the  mountains.     They  are  dan- 
gerous to  cross  over  in  consequence  of  the  many  cracks 
which  they  contain,  covered  with  snow,  which  prevents 
the   traveler  from  discovering  his  danger  until  suddenly 
the  snow  gives  away  beneath  his  feet  and  he  is  precipi- 
tated into  a  terrible  abyss.     Our  captain,  who  was  an 
old  voyager  to   this  island,  used   to  warn    us   very  fre- 
quently of  the  danger  in  walking  over  these   icebergs, 
as  he  had  been  so  unfortunate   as  to  lose  a  man  on  a 
former  voyage.     The  old  gentleman  related  the  manner 
of  his  loss  and  the  means  employed  for  his   recovery  in 
the  following  manner  :  It  was  in  the  Spring  of  the  year 
and  they  were  in  great  expectations  of  a  ship  from  Eng- 
land in  which   they  anticipated   letters  from  home,  but 
how  to  obtain  them  they  did  not  know  unless  they  un- 
dertook a  journey  across  the  island  where  the  ship  was 
to  come  to  anchor  to  collect  her  cargo.     A  party  of  the 
crew  undertook  the   journey  and  in  the  act  of  crossing 
one  of  these   icebergs  one  of  the  party  fell   through  the 
snow  into  one  of  these  dangerous  cracks.     Some  of  the 
party  returned  immediately  to  the  ship  to  give  informa- 
tion.    On  receiving  the  melancholy  information  the  cap- 
tain immediately  repaiied  to  the  spot  with  a  tow  line  to 
let  down  into  the  crevice  for  the   unfortunate  snilor  to 
take  hold  of,  if  he  still  existed  ;  but  finding  that  one  tow 
line  was  too  short  to  reach  the  bottom,   an  additional 
one  was  procured  with  as  little  success.     He  was  reluc- 
tantly abandoned  to  his  melancholy  fate. 

The  icebergs  which  crown  the  head  of  these  bays, 
are  also  dangerous  in  consequence  of  their  constant  fall- 
ing, which  is  caused  by  the  presence  of  ice  from  above 
toward  the  water  and  that  part,  against  which  the  sea  is 
continually  beating,  being  undermined,  causes  the  tre- 
mendous crushes  which  frequently  occur,  and  sound  in 
the  car  like  the  loudest  thunder.  1  have  frequently  wit- 


128  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

nessed  the  falling  of  these  icehergs,  and  on  one  occasion 
1  saw  one  fall  which  I  judged  to  be  200  feel  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  It  made  a  tremendous  roar  and  rose 
the  sea  on  the  shore  at  a  distance  of  three  miles  over 
thirty  feet  for  a  few  minutes.  The  coast  is  constantly 
visited  by  a  number  of  these  islands  of  ice  which  are 
driven  in  these  seas  by  the  prevalent  south-west  winds. 
They  are  of  such  an  immense  size  that  they  frequently 
ground  on  the  coast  and  remain  in  one  position  for  weeks 
at  a  time.  I  saw  one  which  wasa-ground  at  the  mouth 
of  Royal  Bay  for  several  weeks,  which  was  600  feet 
long  and  150  wide.  Its  shape  was  square  at  the  ends 
and  the  sides  perpendicular.  Its  height  above  the  wa- 
ter was  about  50  feet  on  one  side  and  40  on  the  other. 
Its  top  was  smooth  and  sloping,  covered  with  four  or  five 
feet  of  snow.  On  the  highest  side  was  an  opening  which 
was  sufficiently  large  to  admit  a  ship.  We  rowed  into 
it  and  found  it  like  a  spacious  dock.  I  have  also  seen 
another  large  iceberg  which  was  a-ground  about  two  miles 
opposite  Cape  Charlotte.  Tins  was  a  cape  in  the  shape 
of  a  sugar  loaf,  whose  proud  head  overlooked  the  turbu- 
lent sea  500  feet  above  its  level,  and  it  was  admitted 
by  our  officers,  who  were  considered  competent  judges, 
that  the  iceberg  was  full  as  high  above  the  water  as  the 
cape.  Then  according  to  the  general  rule  the  iceberg 
must  have  been  1500  feet  from  its  summit  to  its  bottom, 
that  is  1000  feet  beneath  the  water  and  500  above. 
This  will  probably  appear  incredible  to  some  of  my  rea- 
ders who  have  not  had  an  opportunity  of  examining 
such  things. 

It  is  of  great  importance  that  a  ship,  going  on  a  sea- 
elephant  voyage  to  any  of  these  islands,  should  be 
there  in  what  is  called  "  the  pupping-cow  season," 
which  commences  in  October.  The  elephants  which 
get  on  shore  during  this  season  are  the  pupping-cows  and 
bulls.  They  come  up  on  sandy  beaches  which  are  made 
suitable  to  their  condition  at  this  time  of  the  year.  Im- 
mediately after  their  landing  on  shore,  by  peculiar  in- 
stinct they  form  themselves  into  pods  along  the  beaches. 
This  arrangement  is  made  by  the  bulls,  which  keep  a 
constant  look  out  for  those  which  come  out  of  the  water, 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  129 

and  immediately  drive  them  to  their  respective  pods  and 
keep  a  constant  watch  to  keep  them  in  this  place. 
Sometimes  he  takes  his  position  in  the  middle  of  his 
pod  from  which  he  keeps  rising  now  and  then  to  watch, 
at  others  on  the  outside,  and  when  this  is  the  case 
they  generally  go  round  the  pod  once  in  about  two  hours. 
The  largest  of  the  bulls,  which  are  from  20  to  22  feet 
in  length  and  from  four  to  five  in  height,  will  fight  for 
hours  most  furiously  for  the  mastership  of  the  pods. 

The  next  is  the  "  brown-cow  season."  These  are 
large  barren  cows  and  come  up  any-where,wherever  they 
can  find  a  chance. 

The  next  is  the  "  young  bull  season,"  so  called. 
These  come  up  and  lay  among  the  bogs  to  shed  their 
skins,  and  after  two  months  on  shore,  they  go  off  with 
scarcely  any  fat  on  them. 

The  next  is  the  "  March  bull  season."  These  are 
the  largest  of  the  bulls,  which  have  escaped  from  the 
hunters  in  October.  They  generally  come  up  on  sandy 
beaches  to  shed  their  skins.  These  bulls  are  very  large 
and  fat  and  three  of  them  generally  make  two  tuns  of  oil, 
but  I  have  assisted  in  taken  several  which  have  made  a 
tun  of  oil  each. 

The  season  for  seal  commences  in  December  and  lasts 
through  the  three  winter  month's.  The  seal  generally 
come  up  on  high,  flat  rocks  where  there  is  a  great  deal 
of  surf,  which  makes  it  very  dangerous  to  land  with  the 
boats,  in  consequence  of  the  gJgat  rise  and  fall  of  the 
sea  upon  the  rocks  at  every  sw^eep  of  the  waves. 

As  to  the  manner  of  making  up  the  voyage  I  remark  in 
the  first  place,  it  is  essential  to  choose  a  good  ship-har- 
bor in  a  central  part  of  the  island,  to  divide*lhe  distance 
fairly  for  the  shallops  and  boats  from  each  end  of  the 
island  to  the  ship.  In  the  second  place  the  ship  should 
be  provided  with  two  good  shallops  to  take  the  blubber 
on  board  of  the  ship.  These  shallops  are  sent,  one  to 
the  east  and  the  other  to  the  west  of  the  ship.  There 
are  two  or  three  boats  to  attend  each  shallop  to  kill  the  el- 
ephants and  to  take  blubber  on  board  of  them.  The  boat's 
crews  are  so  situated  at  times,  as  to  endure  the  severest 
of  hardships,  cold,  starvation  and  hunger.  The  boats 
17 


130  LIFE   AND    TRAVELS 

have  to  pass  through  breakers,  over  sunken  rocks  and 
bars,and  to  land  on  dangerous  open,  sandy  beaches,arnong 
ice  and  tremendous  surfs,  which  often  upsets  the  boats, 
notwithstanding  the  care  and  caution  of  the  crews.  They 
leave  the  ship  and  seldom  return  under  three  or  four 
months,  during  which  the  boat  is  the  house  and  home 
of  the  crew.  They  always  sleep  under  the  boat,  which 
is  turned  bottom-up  on  a  sandy  or  strong  beach  or  rocks, 
which  is  frequently  the  case  ;  but  in  the  winter  and 
spring,  the  ground  being  deeply  covered  with  snow,  the 
boat's  crew  are  under  the  necessity  of  sleeping  on  it. 

When  we  first  arrived  in  the  island,  I  was  chosen  to 
row  the  after-oar  in  the  second  mate's  boat,  which  was 
stationed  to  the  eastward  of  the  ship.  We  left  the  ship 
some  days  before  the  shallop  was  ready,  with  the  in- 
tention to  prepare  a  cargo  for  her,  and  in  company  with 
another 'boat  arrived  that  day  at  Snow-squall  Bay,  about 
50  miles  from  the  ship  and  a  good  place  for  young  bulls. 
This  bay  has  three  long  sandy  beaches  and  one  iceberg. 
Here  we  turned  our  boat  over  on  the  sand,  close  against  a 
bluff,  which  sheltered  us  from  the  boisterous  wind?  and 
occasional  rains. 

Having  killed  all  the  elephants  in  this  bay,  the  blub- 
ber of  which  was  sent  on  board  of  the  ship  by  the  shal- 
lop, we  proceeded  to  the  next  bay,  which  was  Disap- 
pointment, to  slaughter  the  innocent  animals  there.  Hav- 
ing arrived  at  the  bay,  we  turned  our  boat  up  in  the  mid- 
dle part  of  a  sandy  beach,  which  was  open  to  a  great 
valley,  through  which  the  wind,  when  it'did  blow  in  that 
direction,  was  very  violent.  This  we  learned  to  our  sor- 
row when  it^was  too  late.  After  our  boat  was  turned 
over,  we  partook  of  a  good  hearty  supper,  which  1  had 
provided  out  of  fried  elephant's  hearts  and  tongues,  and 
coffee.  It  then  being  late  in  the  evening,  we  retired  to 
our  sandy  bed  to  repose,  as  we  anticipated,  without  mo- 
lestation for  the  night.  But  we  were  not  long  permitted 
to  enjoy  our  sweet  repose,  before  we  were  aroused  by 
the  whistling  of  the  wind,  which  came  down  the  valley 
in  gusts,  shaking  our  boat  from  end  to  end  and  threaten- 
ing us  with  her  immediate  overturn.  The  severity  of 
the  wind  continuing  to  increase,  we  were  under  the  ne- 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  131 

cessity  of  setting  up  under  the  boat  to  hold  her  down, 
every  time  these  severe  gusts  came  down  upon  us.  To- 
wards midnight  the  gusts  became  so  severe  in  spite  of  all 
our  efforts  to  keep  her  down,  that  she  was  blown  from 
us  about  fifty  feet  into  the  air.  She  came  down  on  the 
sand  a  hundred  feet  from  where  she  was,  and  then  rolled 
over  with  the  force  of  the  wind  a  hundred  feet  more,  be- 
fore she  reached  the  water.  We  came  up  with  the  boat 
and  took  her  up  with  great  difficulty  and  conveyed  her 
to  one  corner  of  the  beach,  which  was  sheltered  in  some 
degree  from  the  violence  of  the  wind,  and  there  hauled 
her  up.  In  her  fall,  she  stove  about  ten  feet  of  her  up- 
per streak,  in  consequence  of  which  she  became  useless 
to  us  until  repaired. 

We  were  now  under  the  necessity  of  walking  the 
beach  the  remainder  of  the  night  to  keep  us  from  freez- 
ing. The  shallop  arrived  in  a  few  days  and  took  in  her 
load,  and  our  boat  and  crew,  for  the  ship,  to  which  we 
arrived  in  twenty-four  hours. 

After  our  boat  had  been  repaired,  we  were  sent  with 
the  large  shallop  to  the  westward  of  the  ship  to  search 
every  creek  and  corner  for  elephants  and  seals.  In  the 
afternoon  we  arrived  at  the  west  branch  of  Royal  Bay, 
where  after  searching  for  elephants,  we  discovered  a  large 
and  dry  cavern,  sufficiently  large  to  accommodate  forty 
men.  There  we  t)ok  up  our  lodgings  for  the  night,  and 
left  it  the  next  morning  highly  gratified  with  our  discov- 
ery, anticipating  its  future  benefit  to  our  ship's  crew. 
After  searching  this  branch,  which  had  two  large  ice- 
bergs, we  proceeded  to  Cumberland  Bay,  which  also  is 
a  large  and  beautiful  bay,  in  each  three  branches,  each 
of  which  is  a  safe  harbor  for  shipping.  *The  next  we 
came  to  was  Fresh  Water  Bay.  Here  we  discovered 
another  cavern,  large  enough  for  two  boat's  crews.  In 
it  we  took  up  our  lodgings  for  several  days,  finding 
enough  elephants  to  fill  the  shallop  twice.  From  this 
we  proceeded  to  Iceberg  and  Big  Bay,  each  of  which 
contain  large,  tremendous  icebergs.  We  then  passed 
over  to  Crew's  Harbor  and  Hog  Bay. 

In  searching  over  these  harbors  we  found  elephants 
sufficient  to  load  our  shallop  two  or  three  times  with  blub- 


132  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

her.  We  next  proceeded  to  the  Bay  of  Islands,  which 
is  a  large  bay  containing  four  large  and  beautiful  islands, 
resorted  to  by  numerous  albatrosses  which  build  their 
nests  there. 

From  this  we  proceeded  to  Sparrow's  Bay,  where  we 
filled  up  our  shallop  and  sent  her  to  the  ship.  We  then 
returned  to  the  Bay  of  Islands,  where  we  expected  to 
collect  a  part  of  a  shallop-load.  The  other  boat  went  on 
board  of  the  ship  with  the  shallop  for  a  supply  of  provi- 
sions for  both  the  boats,  as  the  shallop  had  to  go  to  the 
eastward  of  the  ship,  and  probably  would  not  have  re- 
turned to  us  in  three  weeks.  We  were  left  with  provi- 
sions for  a  week  only,  expecting  the  boat  to  return  with- 
in that  time  with  a  full  supply.  But  the  north  and  wes- 
terly winds,  which  generally  prevail  at  that  time  of  the 
year,  setting  in  for  a  whole  fortnight,  prevented  the  re- 
turn of  the  boat  as  soon  as  it  was  expected,  in  conse- 
quence of  which,  in  the  course  of  a  week  we  found  our- 
selves in  a  suffering  condition.  We  had  collected  14 
tuns  of  blubber  in  less  than  a  week  and  we  dared  not 
leave  it  for  fear  that  the  sea-birds  would  devour  it  during 
our  absence,  as  it  was  rather  inconvenient  and  difficult 
to  bury  it,  a  mode  sometimes  adopted  to  save  it  irom  the 
birds. 

Twelve  days  had  now  elapsed  since  the  departure  of 
the  boat  and  yet  there  was  no  prospect  of  her  return,  as 
the  winds  still  continued  unfavorable,  which  occasioned 
us  a  depression  of  spirits. 

Since  the  consumption  of  the  last  of  our  provisions, 
which  was  now  six  days,  we  had  been  subsisting  solely 
on  boiled  elephant's  tongues  and  hearts,  which  are  carri- 
on, and  when  they  are  used  for  food,  alone,  are  injurious 
to  the  constitution  of  man.  As  we  continued  to  subsist 
on  this  unwholesome  food,  our  health  and  strength  daily 
declined,  and  we  came  to  the  conclusion  to  leave  the 
blubber  to  its  fate  and  endeavor  to  reach  the  ship  as 
soon  as  possible.  We  were  encouraged  to  come  to  this 
determination  by  a  strong  wind  which  was  then  blowing 
in  our  favor  and  which  we  anticipated  would  take  us 
safely  to  the  ship  by  sunset,  it  being  sunrise  when  we 
started  for  the  ship.  But  in  a  few  hours  we  experienc- 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  133 

ed  a  reverse  wind,  and  shortly  after  a  calm,  which  con- 
tinued the  best  part  of  the  day,  and  the  whole  of  the 
night,  in  consequence  of  which  we  were  under  the  ne- 
cessity of  rowing  22  hours  without  cessation,  excepting 
for  a  few  minutes.  We  met  with  a  strange  boat's  crew, 
from  whom  we  obtained  a  small  slice  of  raw  pork  and  a 
biscuit  for  each  man,  which  we  devoured  with  great 
avidity. 

After  enduring  faintnes?,  hunger  and  great  fatigue,  we 
arrived  on  board  of  the  ship  on  the  following  morning. 
The  captain  permitted  us  to  rest  that  day.  When, 
taking  a  sufficient  quantity  of  provisions  we  were  des- 
patched again  to  our  station,  to  continue  the  prosecution 
of  our  labor.  After  having  departed  from  the  shin  we 
caught  a  slight  easterly  wind,  which  wafted  us  with  all 
possible  speed  to  the  place  that  we  had  previously  left 
at  which  we  arrived  in  the  evening  and  were  highly 
gratified  at  meeting  our  absent  boat's  crew  there.  We 
continued  in  this  place  until  the  arrival  of  the  shallop  to 
take  the  cargo,which  we  had  provided  for  her.  and  then 
commenced  retracing  the  grounds  towards  the  ship.  We 
returned  to  the  ship  after  having  gone  over  100  miles 
twice,  during  which  time  we  had  sent  100  tuns  of  blub- 
ber on  board  of  the  ship. 

Our  two  boats  and  shallop  were  now  sent  to  the  east- 
ward of  the  ship  to  assist  the  other  boats  and  shallop  in 
accomplishing  the  work  on  that  part  of  tho  island,  which 
abounded  with  elephants.  We  left  the  ship  and  procee- 
ded to  Cooper's  harbor,  which  is  the  most  easterly  har- 
bor on  the  island.  Here  we  carried  on  the  slaughter 
along  the  coast,  during  which  time  we  sent  several  shal- 
lop loads  of  blubber  on  board  of  the  ship. 

Having  worked  over  the  east  grounds  we  proceeded 
to  the  ship  to  lay  the  shallops  up  before  the  ship  should 
be  frozen  in,  as  it  was  now  the  commencement  of  winter. 

In  consequence  of  the  scarcity  of  the  elephants  and 
the  severity  of  the  winter,  which  had  now  commenced 
with  its  usual  rigor,  we  w7ere  confined  on  board  of  the 
ship  the  forepart  of  the  winter,  during  which  we  were 
chiefly  employed  in  cutting  the  ice  out  of  the  basin  to 
prevent  its  injuring  the  ship,  and  in  clearing  the  decks 


134  LIFE  AND  TRAVELS 

after  heavy  snow  falls,  which  frequently  occurred. — 
The  snow  falls  having  become  less  frequent  and  the 
weather  more  mild  towards  the  latter  part  of  winter, 
our  captain  sent  two  boats  a  sealing.  They  were  sent 
from  the  ship  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  provision  to 
last  them  three  weeks,  the  time  designated  by- the  cap- 
tain for  their  absence  from  the  ship.  The  boats  selected 
for  this  short  expedition  were  the  boatswain's  and  the 
second  mate's. 

We  proceeded  to  the  eastward  examining  every  creek 
and  corner,  and  killing  every  seal  that  we  met  in  our 
way  until  night  overtook  us  at  the  entrance  of  Char- 
lotte's Bay,  which  in  a  direct  course  was  twenty  miles 
from  the  ship.  What  was  now  to  be  done  to  obtain 
shelter  from  the  inclemency  of  the  night's  severe,  chill- 
ing frost  ?  We  knew  the  bay  to  be  a  rocky,  iron-bound 
shore,  excepting  a  small  beach  about  100  yards  wide 
some  distance  from  us,  but  which  at  this  time  of  the  year 
was  inaccessible  in  consequence  of  the  great  hight  of 
snow  by  the  water's  edge  which  was  from  10  to  15  feet. 
We  rowed  along  the  west  coast  of  the  bay  with  our  anx- 
ious eyes  fixed  upon  the  black  irregular  rocks  as  we  pass- 
ed them,  to  see  if  we  could  possibly  discover  a  place  to 
haul  our  boat  in  for  the  night.  At  last  we  came  to  a 
small  strong  beach  which  was  about  40  feet  square,  and 
was  overhung  by  a  huge  rock,  which  in  some  measure 
defended  it  from  the  snow,  but  the  traces  of  the  sea- 
weed left  no  doubt  in  my  mind  that  the  principal  agent 
in  performing  this  labor  was  the  dashing  of  the  waves, 
as  it  was  opened  to  the  north  and  easterly  winds.  We 
hauled  up  our  boals  over  the  rocks  and  stones  with  great 
difficulty  and  turned  one  over  to  shelter  us  from  the 
weather.  Several  seals  which  we  had  in  the  boats  were 
then  skinned  and  piled  before  the  boat  and  set  fire  to,  to 
keep  us  from  freezing  during  the  night.  This  was  done 
by  the  men  while  the  other  boy  and  1  were  engaged  in 
melting  ice  to  procure  some  water  to  make  coffee  for 
our  suppers.  After  supper  we  retiied  under  the  boat  to 
rest  our  wearied  bodies  on  the  huge,  round  stones  from 
the  fatigue  and  labors  of  the  preceding  day.  Some  of 
us  laid  down  on  the  stones  while  others  sat  down  and 


OF    THOMAS    W.  SMITH.  135 

reclined  against  the  thwart.  At  midnight  I  awoke  from 
my  slumber  shivering  with  cold,  and  by  the  orders  or 
the  boatswain,  immediately  proceeded  to  boil  some  cof- 
fee and  fry  some  seal's  liver  for  our  breakfast,  of  which 
we  voraciously  partook.  Having  finished  our  breakfast  we 
were  under  the  necessity  of  walking  the  little  beach  until 
break  of  day  to  keep  ourselves  warm  and  comfortable. 
At  break  of  day  we  launched  our  boats  and  recommenced 
our  search  for  seals  along  the  coast.  We  proceeded  un- 
til after  the  sun  had  descended  beneath  the  western  hor- 
izon, at  which  time  we  came  to  a  small  neck  of  very 
low  land,  at  the  end  of  which  was  a  small  rocky  island. 
On  this  little  neck  we  hauled  up  our  boats  over  the  rocks, 
as  it  was  now  dark,  and  this  was  the  only  place  within 
our  view  where  we  could  find  shelter.  Our  boats  were 
turned  over  and  a  blubber  fire  kindled  to  make  our  cof- 
fee. After  having  partook  of  a  good  cup  of  coffee,  we 
crept  under  the  boats  to  pass  a  miserable  night,  at  the 
close  of  a  hard  day's  labor.  As  I  was  small  and  short, 
which  on  this  occasion  proved  to  be  of  some  advantage, 
1  laid  on  the  inner  part  of  the  thwart  where  I  had  some 
flying  naps  during  the  forepart  of  the  night.  At  mid- 
night we  were  greatly  alarmed  by  the  crackling  of  the 
ice  beneath  the  boats.  Shortly  after  it  was  made  ap- 
parent to  us  that  the  crackling  of  the  ice  was  caused  by 
an  unusually  high  tide  which  was  then  flowing  and 
breaking  the  ice  beneath  us  to  an  alarming  extent.  We 
were  placed  in  a  dangerous  situation,  not  knowing  what 
was  beneath  us,  whether  water  and  ice  alone,  or  rocks, 
ice  and  water.  But  in  the  midst  of  our  conjectures,  our 
anxieties  were  relieved  by  the  welcome  dawning  of  the 
day,  which  plainly  exhibited  to  us  our  unsafe  and  unfa- 
vorable condition.  Without  hesitation  we  immediate- 
ly turned  our  boats  over  and  proceeded  to  launch  them 
into  the  sea  as  the  only  safe  refuge.  It  was  some  time 
before  we  could  accomplish  this  task,  as  the  tide  by  this 
lime  had  broken  up  all  the  ice  beneath  us,  and  it  was 
with  difficulty  that  we  could  obtain  a  foot-hold  on  the 
peaked  rocks,  which  were  far  apart  and  between  which 
was  ten  or  twelve  feet  of  water,  which  made  it  dangerous 
and  difficult  for  us  to  convey  our  boats  over  them  with 


136  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

safety.  At  last  we  succeeded  in  gelling  our  boats  safely 
into  the  water.  Having  succeeded  in  this  we  rowed  off 
at  a  little  distance  from  the  shore  and  laid  on  our  oars, 
while  we  breakfasted  by  taking  some  raw  pork  and  biscuit 
and  a  glass  of  spirit,  which  was  then  thought  to  be  essen- 
tial to  renovate  our  spirits.  We  recommenced  our 
search  along  the  frightful  and  dangerous  iron-bound  shore 
and  proceeded  until  late  in  the  evening,  at  which  time 
we  arrived  at  the  east  branch  of  Tamering  bay.  When 
there  we  rowed  to  a  strong  beach,  near  which  was  a  half- 
moon  cavern  dry  and  free  from  snow.  Here  we  took  up 
our  lodgings  for  the  night.  After  supper,  while  on  the 
point  of  retiring  to  our  beds,  which  were  composed  of 
the  huge  round  stones,  the  boatswain  made  some  remarks 
respecting  our  present  condition  when  contrasted  with 
the  most  affluent  in  England,  and  jocosely  took  a  white 
pigeon  which  we  had  taken,  and  plucking  some  of  its 
feathers  gave  two  to  each  individual,  advising  us  to  put 
them  under  us  and  sleep  on  them,  that  on  some  future 
day  we  might  say  we  had  slept  on  feathers  while  enga- 
ged in  sealing  on  the  coast  of  Georgia. 

We  continued  our  daily  search,  at  times  sleeping  on 
rocks,  snow,  ice  or  in  caverns,  until  we  obtained  a  boat 
load  of  skins  and  then  we  proceeded  to  the  ship  to  dis- 
charge. 

Winter  having  at  length  passed  away  with  its  multi- 
plicity of  toils  and  innumerable  dangers,  and  Spring  hav- 
ing made  its  welcome  appearance;  joyous  and  rejoic- 
ing, we  commenced  the  season  with  cheerful  hearts  and 
indefatigable  diligence,  which  finally  crowned  our  efforts 
with  abundant  success,  notwithstanding  the  cloud  of  mis- 
fortune which  impeded  our  progress  and  cast  a  gloom 
over  our  prosperity  towards  the  latter  part  of  the  season. 
This  was  occasioned  by  the  loss  of  our  small  shallop, 
which  to  us,  was  an  irreparable  loss  ;  and  had  the  acci- 
dent taken  place  in  the  middle  or  commencement  of  the 
voyage  it  undoubtedly  would  have  been  the  means  of 
a  failure  in  our  enterprize. 

We  at  last  succeeded  in  filling  the  ship  and  sailed  for 
England  in  the  latter  part  of  December  1817,  with 
3500  barrels  elephant  oil  and  5000  seal  skins.  On  leav- 


OF    THOMAS    W.     SMITH.  137 

ing  the  island  I  suffered  much  with  the  severity  of  the 
cold,  which  affected  my  feet  to  a  great  degree.  I  had 
neither  shoes  nor  stockings,  having  previously  worn 
them  out,  and  it  was  impossible  to  obtain  any  from  the 
slop-chest,  as  it  was  empty,  or  from  any  of  the  crew. 
But  fortunately  for  me,  we  were  blessed  with  a  favorable 
wind  by  which  we  were  soon  brought  into  milder  weath- 
er, which  relieved  me. 

After  we  had  been  out  about  a  week,  our  ship  sprung 
a  leak  in  a  severe  gale  of  wind,  which  lasted  three  days. 
The  gale  having  abated,  we  bore  away,  crowding  all 
possible  sail  on  the  ship,  as  it  was  expedient  for  us  to  go 
into  port  to  stop  the  leak,  as  shs  was  leaking  at  the  rate 
of  400  strokes  per  hour.  It  was  ascertained  that  the 
leak  was  under  the  counter  near  the  stern  post,  which  the 
officers  thought  could  be  easily  stopped  by  heeling  the 
ship  on  our  arrival  into  port.  We  had  great  reason  to 
be  grateful  to  that  kind  and  benevolent  providence  who 
watched  over  us  with  incessant  care,  particularly  in  this 
dangerous  position,  by  favoring  us  with  a  strong  and  fa- 
vorable wind,  which  in  three  weeks  from  the  day  of  our 
departure  from  the  island,  brought  us  to  a  safe  anchorage 
in  Rio  Janeiro.  Having  come  to  an  anchor  on  the  fol- 
lowing day  we  commenced  trimming  the  ship  to  stop  the 
leak,  which  was  accomplished  in  two  or  three  days. 

Having  stopped  the  leak  in  the  ship,  refreshed  the 
crew  and  renewed  our  supply  of  water,  we  again  started 
for  old  England. 

Rio  Janeiro  is  a  city  of  note  and  the  capital  of  the 
empire  of  Brazil.  It  is  situated  on  level  ground,  bor- 
dering the  water  on  the  left  hand  side  of  the  bay.  The 
city  at  that  time  did  not  exhibit  any  degree  of  splendor. 
The  principal  building  in  it  was  the  king's  palace,  which 
is  near  the  water.  It  is  a  large  building  and  before  it  is 
a  large  square  which  extends  to  the  water  side,  where  is 
a  large  fountain  and  the  principal  landing  place  which  is 
denominated  Palace  ^airs.  The  houses  and  streets  are 
built  in  the  same  style  as  those  in  Portugal  and  to  all 
appearance  the  city  represents  a  Portuguese  town.  Its 
population  was  at  that  time  chiefly  made  up  of  whites 
18 


138  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

and  blacks, the  latter  were  held  as  bondmen  by  the  whites, 
who  used  them  with  great  severity. 

We  proceeded  on  our  passage  towards  England,  which 
proved  prosperous  beyond  our  expectations.  It  was  at 
length  evident  that  we  were  on  the  eve  of  making  land  ; 
and  having  been  in  anxious  expectation  of  it  for  some  time 
our  ears  were  saluted  one  morning  by  a  loud  shout  from 
the  man  at  the  mast  head,  of  "land  ho  !  on  our  larboard 
bow."  Every  one  now  hastened  to  the  forecastle  anx- 
ous  to  catch  a  glance  of  the  land  of  our  birth,  after  an 
absence  of  18  months  from  the  society  and  enjoyment 
of  relatives  and  friends.  No  one,  excepting  those  who 
have  experienced  such  feelings,  are  capable  of  judging 
of  the  degree  of  ecstacy  enjoyed  by  the  sailor,  when  he 
returns  home. 

It  was  soon  ascertained  by  our  officers  that  the  land 
which  we  had  made  was  the  Lizard-point  Having  thus 
made  sure  our  land-fall,  we  immediately  crowded  all  pos- 
sible sail  on  the  ship  and  steered  for  the  Downs,  where 
we  came  to  an  anchor  on  the  following  day. 

At  the  Downs  we  took  in  our  river  pilot,  and  on  the 
following  morning,  the  wind  and  tide  being  favorable, 
we  proceeded  towards  London,  where  we  arrived  in  the 
course  of  two  or  three  days,  to  the  joy  of  all  concerned. 

The  ship  was  soon  discharged  and  her  cargo  sold  at 
the  rate  of  £50  a  tun  for  oil  and  the  skins  at  £2  each. 
The  crew,  with  the  exception  of  the  apprentices,  made 
a  profitable  voyage. 

During  our  stay  at  home  the  apprentices  were  board- 
ed and  lodged  in  the  ship,  which  was  to  five  of  us  orphan 
boys,  our  only  home. 

While  at  home  the  ship  went  through  the  necessary 
repairs  for  another  voyage  to  the  same  island,  on  which 
she  sailed  in  the  latter  part  of  June  1818. 

Notwithstanding  my  knowledge  and  experience  of 
the  sufferings  which  I  should  necessarily  have  to  endure 
in  the  course  of  another  similar  voyage,  I  was  compell- 
ed, being  an  apprentice  through  necessity,  and  with  a 
full  view  of  all  my  future  toils  and  miseries,  to  remain 
in  the  ship  and  go  a  second  voyage  to  that  desolate  is- 
land, unfit  for  human  beings  to  inhabit. 


OF    THOMAS    W.   SMITH.  139 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Departure  from  London  •  near  being  wrecked  ;  arrival  at  Georgia; 
shallops  and  boats  leave  the  ship  in  search  of  elephants  ;  severe 
trial  in  rowing  into  the  bay  ;  discovery  of  a  large  cavern  ;  the 
boats  crews  sleep  in  the  cavern  ;  gale  of  wind ;  loss  of  one 
boat;  the  boat's  crew  walk  to  the  ship;  arrival  of  the  boat's  crew  ; 
landing  at  Devils-bight  ;  gale  of  wind  ;  sufferings  while  there  ; 
return  to  Snow-Squall  Bay  ;  arrival  of  the  boats  at  Cooper's  har- 
bor ;  the  author  is  invited  on  board  the  shallop  by  his  friend 
Johnson  ;  gale  of  wind  blowing  into  the  harbor  ;  the  sloop  parts 
her  cable  and  is  wrecked  on  the  rocks  ;  loss  of  life  and  miracu- 
lous escape  of  the  author;  arrival  of  the  schooner  and  boats  at 
the  ship  ;  a  voyage  of  discovery  to  the  Sandwich  Islands  ;  dis- 
appointment of  the  voyage  ;  description  of  the  volcano  ;  arrival 
at  the  ship ;  the  boats  are  dispatched  to  the  westward  ;  a  shallop 
is  bought;  arrival  of  the  shallop  to  the  boats;  employment  of  the 
boats  ;  loss  of  the  shallop  on  a  rock  ;  escape  of  the  author  and 
sufferings  of  the  crew ;  arrival  of  the  crew  to  the  ship';  gale  of 
wind  ;  the  schooner  drifts  out  to  sea  ;  the  author  sent  to  her  as« 
sistance  ;  his  sufferings  during  the  gale  ;  attempt  to  raise  the 
shallop  ;  winter  sealing  round  the  island ;  the  author  falls  iato 
the  sea  from  an  iceberg  and  from  the  top  of  a  rock  ;  sleeping  on 
the  snow,  ice  and  rocks  during  the  winter  ;  state  of  starvation 
is  compelled  to  subsist  on  Penguin's  hearts  and  livers  ;  in  con- 
sequence of  these  sufferings  our  skin  came  off  in  large  flakes  ; 
departure  of  the  ship  for  England;  touches  at  the  Isle  of  Fer- 
manda  norona  ;  arrival  at  London  ;  poverty  of  the  author. 

EIGHTH    VOYAGE. 

The  ship  sailed  from  London  on  her  intended  voyage, 
accompanied  by  the  schooner  Ann, a  vessel  of  150  tons, 
bought  by  the  owners  of  the  ship  for  the  purpose  of 
sailing  as  a  shallop  to  attend  the  ship,  she  being  a  larger 
and  more  suitable  vessel  than  the  small  shallop  to  brave 
the  violent  storms  and  heavy  seas  on  the  coast  of  that 
terrific  cold  and  mountainous  land.  On  our  passage  out, 


140  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

we  touched  at  the  Island  of  Brava  for  live  stock  and 
then  proceeded  toward  our  intended  port. 

In  making  our  passage  in  consequence  of  the  south- 
east and  trade  winds,  we  drifted  on  the  coast  of  Brazil 
and  came  near  being  lost.  No  person  on  board  knew 
the  true  position  of  the  ship,if  we  may  judge  from  the  ex- 
terior appearance  of  things.  If  the  navigators  had  known, 
they  most  undoubtedly  would  have  had  confidential  look- 
out men  at  the  mast-head  to  give  the  alarm  of  danger 
when  danger  should  appear.  But  this  was  not  the  case. 
The  night  being  very  dark,  fires,  which  had  been  made 
by  some  of  the  slaves  on  the  plantation,  was  distinctly 
observed  by  some  one  on  deck,  and  the  alarm  was  in- 
stantly given  and  the  ship  was  immediately  put  about  for 
her  safety.  In  the  morning  we  found  ourselves  close  in 
shore  under  the  lee  of  Cape  St.  Augustine,  and  the 
navigators  could  not  account  for  their  miscalculation  un- 
less it  was  in  consequence  of  the  strong  current  and 
scanty  winds. 

Here  was  a  danger  which  was  merely  escaped  by  the 
accident  of  the  fire.  Had  it  not  been  for  that  fire,  the 
ship  must  have  been  inevitably  lost,  perhaps  with  many 
valuable  lives.  This  may  be  put  down  to  intemperance 
on  the  part  of  the  officers. 

Having  weathered  the  coast  of  Brazil,  we  continued 
on  our  passage  to  our  destined  port,  sailing  by  many 
large,  high  and  terrific  icebergs,  where  at  last  we  moor- 
ed our  ship  safely  in  harbor. 

The  schooner  which  sailed  from  London  in  company 
with  us,  parted  from  the  ship  four  or  five  days  subse- 
quent to  our  departure  from  the  land's  end  of  En  "land. 
She  made  a  direct  passage  and  had  arrived  in  the  bay  a 
fortnight  before  us. 

The  boats  and  shallops  crews  were  chosen,and  despatch- 
ed to  their  respective  stations  to  carry  on  the  work  of  des- 
struction  among  the  elephants  and  seals.  As  I  was  well 
acquainted  with  the  coast  and  mode  of  operation,  I  was 
chosen  by  the  second  mate  who  was  unacquainted  with 
the  business,  to  aid  him  in  the  knowledge  of  the  coast 
and  the  mode  of  killing  elephants  and  getting  the  blub- 
ber off  of  the  sandy  beaches. 


OP    THOMAS    W    SMITH.  141 

We  proceeded  to  the  eastward  and  meeting  with  good 
success,  sent  several  loads  on  board  of  the  ship  to  be 
converted  into  oil. 

Having  thoroughly  cleared  Tamaring  bay  of  all  the 
elephants,  we  proceeded  one  cold  morning  towards 
Snow-Squall  bay.  It  was  blowing  a  fresh  breeze  when 
we  started,  and  having  entered  the  mouth  of  the  bay, 
we  found  that  the  wind  was  blowing  very  severe  out  of 
it.  We  were  at  a  loss  to  know  what  to  do.  To  row  in- 
to the  bay  against  a  strong  wind,  and  the  seaspray  flying 
over  the  boat,  was  truly  discouraging  if  not  im practicable. 
To  go  back  where  we  started  from  was  painful  to  think 
of,  as  by  so  doing  we  would  have  been  put  back  fifty 
miles  distance.  At  last  we  resolved  to  go  forward,  with 
a  full  determination  to  gain  the  desired  spot.  The  day 
was  clear  and  the  sun  shone  bright.  But  notwithstand- 
ing the  brightness  of  the  sun,  the  piercing  wind,  which 
blew  directly  from  a  large  iceberg,  caused  a  heavy  sea 
into  which  our  boats  plunged  at  every  stroke  of  the  oars, 
which  caused  the  spray  to  fly  continually  over  us.  The 
frost  which  at  the  same  time  preyed  on  us  with  its  usual 
severity,  converted  the  water  which  was  thrown  into  the 
boat  and  on  us  by  the  sea  into  solid  ice,  and  the  water 
that  lodged  on  my  hair  became  small  lumps  of  ice.  But 
notwithstandiug  the  continual  opposition  of  the  windand 
sea,  and  the  severity  of  the  frost,  we  succeeded  in  gain- 
ing the  weather  shore,  where  we  became  completely 
sheltered  from  the  wind.  We  rowed  along  the  irorv- 
bound  shore  until  it  was  nearly  dark,  to  discover  a  place 
where  we  could  land  and  turn  our  boats  over  for  the 
night.  At  last,  after  much  toil  nnd  anxiety,  fearing  that 
we  should  be  under  the  necessity  of  passing  the  night  in 
our  boat,  we  discovered  a  small  beach  between  the  rocks. 
We  rowed  along  into  the  gulf-way.  It  was  about  sixty 
feet  wide,  high,  black  and  terrific  rocks  on  one  side  and 
black,  low  and  flat  ones  on  the  other.  We  soon  landed 
at  its  head,  on  a  small  beach,  which  at  high  water  was 
overflown  by  the  sea.  From  this  beach  the  land  rose  in 
in  high  perpendicular  and  inaccessible  rock?.  We 
landed  to  see  what  discoveries  we  could  possibly  make, 
end  to  our  surprise,  our  hearts  were  gladdened  by  the 


142  LIFE    AND   TRAVELS 

discovery  of  a  long,  large  and  beautiful  cavern,  suffi- 
ciently large  to  contain  our  boats  and  to  accommodate 
50  men.  Our  boat  was  immediately  hauled  into  the 
cavern  and  the  other  was  hauled  up  in  safety,  as  it  was 
then  thought,  upon  the  flat  rocks,  close  to  the  cavern. 
After  this  was  done,  we  sat  down  by  a  good  fire  and 
congratulated  each  other  upon  the  final  result  of  the  day, 
and  particularly  on  the  discovery  of  the  cavern,  the  fu- 
ture benefits  of  which,  as  a  half-way-house,  was  then 
anticipated.  After  supper,  we  laid  down  on  the  flat, 
rocky  surface  of  the  cavern,  to  rest  our  wearied  limbs 
horn  the  toil  of  the  day. 

Towards  morning  we  were  aroused  by  the  sound  of 
the  wind  and  the  roaring  and  beating  of  the  sea  against 
the  cavern.  We  immediately  proceeded  towards  the 
mouth,  with  fearful  apprehensions  for  the  safety  of  the 
boat,  which  had  been  left  on  the  flat  rock.  Our  appre- 
hensions were  confirmed.  The  boat  was  lost,  and  its 
loss  was  much  lamented  by  her  crew,  as  she  was  new,, 
and  the  loss  was  occasioned  through  sheer  neglect. 

In  consequence  of  the  gale,  we  were  confined  within 
the  cavern  three  days.  Upon  the  fourth  day,  the  wind 
having  changed,  we  left  the  melancholy  spot  and  rowed 
up  some  distance  to  a  suitable  place,  where  we  landed 
the  other  boat's  crew,  to  walk  to  the  ship,  which  task 
they  accomplished  over  the  snow-hills  in  one  day  and  a 
half. 

We  then  proceeded  up  the  bay,  killing  the  animals  as 
we  went,  securing  the  blubber  frbrn  the  innumerable 
ravenous  birds.  We  continued  laboring  for  a  few  days 
until  the  arrival  of  the  other  boat's  crew  with  a  new 
boat. 

Having  collected  at  one  spot  all  the  blubber  taken 
within  the  bay,  it  was  deemed  advisable  to  proceed  to  a 
place  which  was  denominated  Devil's-bight.  It  was  a 
dangerous  place  for  boats  to  approach,  but  a  good  place 
for  elephants.  After  having  buried  all  of  our  provision 
in  this  place,  we  proceeded  to  Devil's-bight  in  search  of 
our  prey.  Here  we  were  employed  two  or  three  days 
in  killing  elephants  and  securing  the  blubber. 

It  had  been  our  original  design  to  have  left  tins  place 

i 


OF   THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  143 

as  soon  as  possible,  for  fear  of  being  blocked  in  by  a 
sudden  gale  of  wind,  which  would  certainly  prove  to  our 
great  disadvantage.  But,  notwithstanding  the  precau- 
tion which  we  had  exercised  for  the  prevention  of  this 
foreseen  disaster,  we  were  finally  hemmed  in  by  a  se- 
vere gale,  which  commenced  on  the  second  night  after 
our  arrival,  while  our  work  was  unfinished.  The  wind 
continued  to  blow  for  two  days  with  such  violence, 
that  it  raised  a  tremendous  sea,  which  broke  over  the 
sunken  rocks  within  the  bight  to  such  a  degree,  that  it 
was  impossible  for  us,  for  nine  days,  to  launch  a  boat; 
in  consequence  of  which,  on  the  seventh  day  of  our 
landing,  we  were  brought  to  a  starving  condition,  our 
provision  being  then  exhausted.  This  drove  us  to  the 
disagreeable  necessity  of  subsisting  on  Penguin  flesh  for 
several  days.  At  length  the  sea  having  become  more 
quiet,  we  ventured  to  make  an  attempt  to  launch  a  boat, 
but  our  efforts  proved  ineffectual.  Three  different  times 
we  attempted  to  launch  the  boat",  but  they  were  filled 
and  turned  over  against  the  rocks.  It  was  with  great 
difficulty  that  we  saved  a  few  things  from  the  great  suc- 
tion of  the  surf.  One  man  was  severely  injured  by  the 
boat  which  went  over  him.  At  the  third  attempt  1  was 
very  much  injured  between  the  rocks  and  the  boat.  The 
injury  1  received  left  me  powerless,  and  had  it  not  been 
for  one  of  the  men,  who  saw  my  condition,  and  who  took 
me  by  the  hand  and  threw  me  into  a  boat,  1  should 
undoubtedly  have  been  killed. 

Having  been  released  at  last  from  this  horrible  place, 
we  immediately  proceeded  towards  the  place  where  our 
provisions  were  buried,  where  we  arrived  in  a  few  hours 
and  heartily  partook  of  a  wholesome  meal,  after  having 
subsisted  on  carrion  for  four  days.  On  arrival  here,  we 
met  our  shallop,  which  had  been  waiting  for  us  several 
days.  After  loading  her  for  the  ship,  we  proceeded  to 
the  east  end  of  the  island,  with  the  special  orders  to 
concentrate  our  blubber  at  Cooper's  Harbor,  it  being 
the  only  suitable  place  for  a  shallop  to  come  to  anchor 
to  take  in  her  cargo.  We  labored  with  unabated  ener- 
gy and  collected  about  twenty  tons  of  blubber  at  Hie 


144  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

appointed  place  previous  to  the  arrival  of  the  shallop. 
Two  days  subsequent  to  her  arrival,  our  schooner,  which 
was  on  her  voyage  round  the  island,  came  into  this  har- 
bor in  consequence  of  adverse  winds. 

We  had  been  busily  engaged  since  the  arrival  of  the 
shallop  in  getting  our  blubber  on  board.  This  task  be- 
ing accomplished,  I  was  invited  on  board  to  spend  the 
night,  by  a  young  man,  who  had  been  a  messmate  of 
mine,  and  with  whom  I  was  intimately  acquainted.  Af- 
ter having  spent  a  few  agreeable  hours,  we  retired  to 
refresh  our  wearied  bodies.  At  10  o'clock  the  captain 
of  the  sloop  was  informed  by  the  watchman,  that  there 
was  a  heavy  swell  and  a  strong  breeze  setting  into  the 
harbor.  This  information  brought  the  captain  on  deck, 
who  immediately  called  the  crew  to  take  out  the  small 
anchor.  This  being  done,  we  retired  to  our  beds,  not 
apprehending  any  danger  from  the  present  appearance 
of  the  weather,  but  in  this  we  were  greatly  mistaken. 

At  12  o'clock  the  captain  was  again  informed  by  the 
watchman,  that  the  sea  and  wind  were  increasing  rapid- 
ly, and  that  it  was  necessary  to  give  the  vessel  more  ca- 
ble. This  was  immediately  done  to  the  utmost  extent, 
in  order  to  prevent  the  vessel  from  dragging  her  an- 
chor. At  day-light  the  sea  had  risen  to  such  a  degree 
that  it  broke  fairly  over  the  vessel  with  great  violence, 
and  we  began  to  be  alarmed  for  tfes;  safety  ;  for  my  part 
I  wished  more  than  once  that  I  had  been  sufficiently 
wise  to  have  staid  on  shore,  under  the  boat,  in  safety. 

The  gale  continued  to  increase,  and  it  was  now  evi- 
dent to  me,  that  our  hopes  and  safety  hung  on  a  single 
thread  in  her  cable,  on  which  our  fate  impended.  By  8 
o'clock,  A.  M.  the  gale  had  increased  to  such  an  extent, 
that  it  was  considered  dangerous  for  any  one  to  be  on 
deck.  We  were  now  in  great  anxiety  for  our  preserva- 
tion, as  we  were  in  momentary  expectation  of  our  ves- 
sel's parting  her  best  bower,  our  whole  dependence  ;  and 
if  this  took  place,  we  were  confident  of  our  vessel's 
irretrievable  loss.  While  ruminating  on  our  deplorable 
condition,  the  captain  of  the  sloop,  who  was  the  chief 
mate  of  the  ship,  and  who  stood  on  the  cabin  steps, 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  145 

watching  the  vessel,  announced  to  us  that  there  were  two 
or  three  tremendous  heavy  waves  rolling  towards  the 
vessel,  which  would  certainly  strike  her,  and,  in  his  opin- 
ion, would  cause  her  to  part  her  cables.  He  then  ad- 
ded ;  '  Be  ready  boys,  to  jump  on  deck,  and  save  your- 
selves, if  you  can !"  This  was  scarcely  out  of  his 
mouth,  when  a  tremendous  crash  was  heard  and  felt  by 
the  shaking  of  the  vessel.  At  this  the  captain  cried; 
*  There  it  is,  boys  !  she's  gone  !  The  best  bower  ca- 
ble's parted — she  will  soon  be  on  the  rocks  ! !'  At  this 
long  expected  announcement  we  rushed  on  deck  for  our 
lives.  We  endeavored  to  go  forward  to  give  the  vessel 
more  cable  on  the  other  anchor,  but  all  in  vain.  This 
was  frustrated  by  a  tremendous  sea,  which  swept  four  of 
us  against  the  tafFerel  and  were  nigh  being  swept  over- 
board. The  vessel  was  dragging  her  anchor  and  rapid- 
ly approaching  the  rocks.  Soon  she  struck,  and  was 
driven  by  the  sea  on  a  rock  near  the  small  beach  where 
she  remained  upright  with  her  head  towards  the  sea. 
As  soon  as  the  vessel  grounded  on  the  rock,  the  sea  op- 
erated more  powerfully  on  her,  which  made  it  a  great 
deal  more  difficult  for  us  to  keep  our  hold.  The  sea 
was  now  breaking  half-mast  over  us.  We  had  not 
been  on  the  rock  many  minutes  when  a  tremendous  sea 
came  rolling  in  and  swept  two  young  men  over  the  taf- 
ferel,  and  one  was  landed  high  on  shore  ;  he  saved  him- 
self from  the  retiring  wave.  Just  at  this  time,  the  two 
boat's  crews  arrived,  who  had  been  anxiously  watching 
us.  Seeing  the  vessel  was  drifting  on  the  shore,  they 
immediately  ran  to  our  assistance,  but  they  came  too 
late  to  save  the  much  lamented  Johnson,  the  young  man 
that  invited  me  on  board.  This  unfortunate  young  man 
had  been  left  on  the  beach,  and  might  have  been  saved, 
had  any  one  been  near  to  give  him  assistance.  After 
being  left  by  the  sea,  which  carried  him  on  shore,  he 
actually  got  on  his  feet,  but  he  must  have  been  deprived 
of  his  reason.  Instead  of  rushing  on  shore  he  walked 
along  the  water's  edge!;  in  consequence  of  which,  he 
gained  no  advantage  over  the  succeeding  wave,  which 
came  in,  roaring  furiously,  and  took  him  with  the  retiring 
19 


146  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

wave  and  carried  him  among  the  rocks,  where  he  was 
finally  dashed  to  pieces. 

In  ten  minutes  after  the  first  two  had  heen  swept 
away  by  the  sea,  the  captain  and  three  more  of  us  who 
had  been  clinging  to  the  tafferel  were  swept  away  by  a 
tremendous  sea.  Out  of  the  four,  two  of  us,  being  light, 
were  thrown  upon  the  beach  with  great  violence,  and 
immediately  secured  by  the  men  on  shore.  The  mate 
of  the  ship,  and  another  man  were  not  carried  so  high 
up,  in  consequence  of  which  they  were  drawn  among 
the  rocks  by  the  draw-back.  Two  or  three  men  went 
in  among  (he  rocks  with  long  ropes  fastened  round  their 
waists,  to  save  them.  Every  possible  exertion  was  made, 
and  they  at  last  succeeded  in  saving  one  of  them;  the 
other,  the  chief  mate  of  the  ship,  was  carried  in  between 
the  rocks,  where  was  a  dangerous  whirlpool,  and  beyond 
human  assistance  ;  but  notwithstanding  all  this,  so  great 
were  the  exertions  of  the  men  that  they  came  near  sav- 
ing him.  They  would  have  succeeded,  had  it  not  been 
for  a  tremendous  sea  setting  in  upon  them,  drawing  them 
among  the  rocks  also,  and  carrying  the  mate  totally  out 
of  reach.  He  was  seen  waving  his  hand  as  he  was  car- 
ried away  by  the  back  sea,  among  the  rocks,  and  he  was 
finally  overwhelmed  and  perished. 

Three  days  after  the  gale,  he  was  picked  up  with  his 
skull  stove  in.  Of  the  remains  of  Johnson,  one  thigh 
bone  and  one  arm  were  the  only  parts  of  the  body  that 
could  be  found.  When  this  melancholy  disaster  became 
fully  known  to  the  ship's  crew,  the  loss  of  the  mate  and 
the  boy  were  much  lamented,  as  they  were  both  amiable, 
particularly  the  mate,  who  had  gained  the  good  will  and 
favor  of  the  crew.  After  collecting  the  useful  remains 
of  the  wreck,  and  all  the  blubber  that  it  was  possible  for 
us  to  save,  they  were  put  on  board  the  schooner,  and  she 
sailed  for  the  ship,  accompanied  by  our  two  boats.  After 
our  arrival  at  the  ship,  being  well  aware  of  the  scarcity 
of  the  elephants,  it  was  thought  to  be  a  suitable  time  for 
the  schooner  to  take  a  voyage  fora  month  of  observation 
for  elephants,  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  which  are  about 
five  degrees  to  the  southward  and  eastward  of  Georgia. 

It  was  thought  by  our  officers,  who  were  well  experi- 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  147 

enced  voyagers  in  the  elephant  trade,  that  the  elephants 
which  crowded  to  the  shores  of  Georgia,  must  of  neces- 
sity come  from  some  land  situated  farther  to  the  south. 

Having  prepared  the  vessel  for  the  voyage,  our  boat 
and  crew  were  chosen  to  go  in  the  vessel,  to  assist  in 
loading  her  in  case  she  should  make  the  desired  discov- 
ery. The  vessel  being  ready  we  proceeded  on  our  voy- 
age in  hopeful  anxiety  for  the  good  success  of  our  enter- 
prize. 

After  leaving  the  bay,  we  took  a  good  north-wester, 
which  in  three  days  took  us  in  sight  of  Freezeland  Peak, 
which  was  thus  denominated  by  us  in  consequence  of  its 
immense  hight,  and  the  quantity  of  ice  and  snow  with 
which  its  sides  were  adorned  and  its  summit  crowned. 

Having  made  the  land,  and  being  sufficiently  near  it 
wiih  the  vessel,  the  two  boats  were  sent  to  examine  the 
shore,  while  the  vessel  continued  sailing  along  the  high 
and  terrific  iron-bound  coast.  We  continued  our  exam- 
ination for  three  days,  without  discovering  a  harbor  or  a 
living  creature  on  the  shore.  The  only  place  that  was 
discovered,  resembling  a  harbor,  was  a  half-moon  bie;ht, 
which  was  open  to  the  sea,  with  scarcely  a  landing  place 
in  it.  Here  we  landed,  it  being  the  only  place  where 
we  could  get  on  shore,  to  see  if  we  could  discover  any 
traces  of  elephants  or  seals,  but  our  efforts  proved 
fruitless  in  this  attempt. 

While  on  shore  we  picked  up  several  lava-stones, 
which  we  supposed  had  been  thrown  out  of  a  high  and 
terrific  volcano,  which  rose  eight  or  nine  hundred  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  at  whose  base  we  had 
landed. 

This  volcano  might,  with  the  strictest  propriety,  be 
denominated  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  world.  One 
peculiarity  consisted  in  the  iceburg  with  which  its  sides 
were  decorated,  and  which  occasionally  fell  with  a  crash 
resembling  a  distant  peal  of  thunder.  One  side  of  the 
mountain  was  covered  with  white,  brilliant  snow,  on  which 
the  sun  poured  its  darting  and  animating  rays,  adding 
lustre  to  the  sublime  scene.  Another  peculiarity  which 
this  volcano  possesses,  is,  that  it  is  one  of  nature's  light- 
houses, planted  in  the  midst  of  a  distant  ocean  by  that 


148  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

unseen  hand,  to  serve  as  a  beacon  to  the  fearless  mari- 
ner. 

When  the  sun  has  descended  beneath  the  western 
and  southern  horizon;  when  the  dark  curtains  of  night 
are  spread  over  the  venerable  head  of  this  majestic 
mount,  it  throws  forth  from  its  crater  scarlet  flames  min- 
gled with  huge,  red-hot,  melted  lava-stones,  which  roll 
down  its  sides  to  the  sea. 

Having  faithfully  examined  the  coast,  we  made  sail, 
steered  for  Georgia,  and  arrived  alongside  of  the  ship  in 
four  days.  We  were  now  sent  to  the  westward,  to  col- 
lect all  the  blubber  that  might  come  within  our  reach, 
and  to  await  the  arrival  of  a  shallop  that  our  captain  was 
to  purchase  from  a  ship  on  the  south  side  of  the  island. 
As  our  schooner  was  going  round  the  island  with  two 
boat's  crews,  our  captain  took  passage  in  her  to  accom- 
plish this  business. 

The  shallop  was  bought  for  £700,  for  which  he  gave 
a  draft  on  the  owners  in  London.  She  was  a  new  ves- 
sel, a  fast  sailer  of  80  tons  burthen.  It  was  now  gener- 
ally believed  among  the  crew,  that  with  the  aid  of  this 
fine  and  beautiful  vessel,  notwithstanding  our  ill  success 
in  losing  the  other,  we  should  finally  succeed  in  procur- 
ing a  voyage  before  the  setting  in  of  the  winter.  But  it 
was  not  for  us  to  know  the  events  of  the  hidden  future. 

The  shallop  was  entrusted  to  the  command  of  Mr. 
Maclow,  the  chief  mate  of  the  schooner,  and  a  very  effi- 
cient and  capable  man,  but  totally  unacquainted  with  the 
coast  on  the  north  side  of  the  island.  The  vessel  sailed 
for  the  ship  to  take  in  a  supply  of  provisions  for  herself 
and  our  boat's  crew,  who  had  now  been  three  weeks  ab- 
sent from  the  ship.  After  her  arrival  at  the  ship,  she 
took  in  her  provision  and  sailed  for  our  boats  to  sup- 
ply us,  and  also  to  take  in  fifty  tuns  of  blubber  which 
our  boats  had  collected.  The  shallop  having  arrived 
to  our  boats  at  Fresh-water  Bay,  we  put  several  tuns  of 
blubber  on  board,  and  proceeded  along  the  coast  to  the 
several  places  where  we  had  collected  it,  and  put  it  all 
on  board.  We  proceeded  in  this  manner  into  several 
bays  along  the  coast,  until  we  arrived  at  Hog  Bay,  which 
is  a  small  bay  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Bay  of  Islands. 


OP    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  149 

While  the  vessel  laid  off  the  harbor,  we  put  several  tuns 
of  blubber  on  board  of  her.  It  being  now  nearly  dark, 
and  being  favored  with  a  good  wind,  it  was  agreed  on  by 
the  officers  that  the  sloop  should  continue  her  course  un- 
til she  should  arrive  at  the  safe  anchorage,  where  we  had 
12  tons  of  blubber  to  put  on  board  of  her.  Accordingly 
all  sail  was  immediately  made  on  the  Lovely  Nancy,  this 
being  the  name  of  the  vessel.  Having  a  stiff  breeze 
she  swiftly  glided  along  the  bosom  of  the  deep,  uncon- 
scious of  her  future  fate.  The  night  advanced  ;  it  was 
so  dark  that  it  was  with  great  difficulty  that  the  land  could 
be  seen  at  a  distance  of  one  hundred  yards  from  the  ves- 
sel. During  this  time  the  vessel's  crew,  seven  in  num- 
ber, were  employed  in  keeping  a  lookout  to  avoid  all  pos- 
sible danger. 

By  nine  o'clock  the  vessel  had  advanced  within  three 
miles  of  the  harbor,  and  there  was  now  but  one  small 
island  for  her  to  pass,  which  was  about  one  hundred 
yards  long,  at  the  in-shore  point;  off  which  was  a  llat  sun- 
ken rock  about  five  or  six  feet  beneath  the  surface  of  the 
water.  As  we  were  in  immediate  expectation  of  mak- 
ing this  island,  all  hands  were  anxiously  employed  in 
looking  out  for  it.  1  was  on  the  deck  at  this  time,  but 
was  driven  below  by  a  shower  of  rain,  which  just  at  this 
time  had  commenced  to  fall.  I  had  scarcely  set  down 
when  I  heard  the  report  of  "land  ho!"  It  was  the  ex- 
pected island.  At  this  the  captain  sung  out :  "put  your 
helm  up,  ease  off  the  main  sheet;  steady  she  goes  boy." 
"Steady",  replied  the  helms-man.  In  five  minutes  a  great 
noise  was  heard,  which  proceeded  from  the  bottom  of 
the  vessel,  and  it  was  succeeded  in  a  moment  by  a  tre- 
mendous rocking  of  the  vessel  on  a  rock.  In  a  moment 
we  all  rushed  on  deck,  and  as  I  happened  to  be  near  the 
steps  I  was  the  second  one  on  deck.  As  soon  as  I  gain- 
ed the  deck,  on  viewing  the  condition  of  the  vessel,  I 
ascertained  on  a  moment's  reflection  that  there  was  no 
time  to  be  lost  in  making  an  effort  to  save  ourselves. 
We  immediately  hauled  our  boats  to  the  stern  of  the 
vessel  and  made  all  possible  haste  to  get  into  them. 
While  we  were  endeavoring  to  get  into  the  boats  the 
sloop's  crew  were  engaged  in  hauling  down  the  sails. 


150  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

Just  at  this  critical  period  I  was  within  a  hair's  breadth 
of  the  termination  of  my  life  by  the  swinging  ^of  the 
main  boom  over  my  head  as  I  was  a  dropping  into  the 
boat  along  side.  I  knew  not  how  to  account  for  the 
mismanagement  on  the  part  of  the  boat's  crew  on  this 
occasion,  excepting  that  it  was  occasioned  by  the  gener- 
al confusion  which  took  place  the  moment  the  vessel 
struck.  Be  it  as  it  may,  one  thing  is  sure,  and  that  is 
this,  that  out  of  twelve  hands  which  belonged  to  the 
boats,  I  was  the  only  one  that  got  into  one  of  them.  The 
other  boat  took  in  eleven  hands  and  immediately  de- 
serted the  vessel  and  were  out  sight,  notwithstanding  my 
loud  calling  to  them  and  the  entreaties  of  two  boys  be- 
longing to  the  sloop,  who  had  got  into  the  boat.  I  imme- 
diately got  hold  of  the  steering  oar  and  advised  the  oth- 
er boys  to  clear  the  boat  from  the  vessel  in  order  to  lay 
her  stern  on  the  side  of  the  vessel,  and  thus  shun  the 
danger  of  losing  the  boat  by  the  rocking  of  the  vessel. 
Having  performed  this  duty  the  sloop's  crew  was  taken 
off  in  safety  ;  but  while  we  were  backing  off  from  the 
vessel  I  perceived  her  sliding  off  the  rock.  I  reported 
the  fact  to  the  captain  of  the  sloop,  who  was  sitting  mute 
and  disconsolate,  ruminating  on  our  sad  misfortune.  In 
a  moment  he  was  upon  his  feet  and  commanded  to  be 
put  on  board  of  her  which  was  immediately  done.  Ev- 
ery possible  effort  was  made  to  save  the  vessel,  but  all 
our  efforts  proved  fruitless.  She  went  down  in  eight 
fathoms  of  water  and  carne  near  taking  her  small  boat 
down  with  her  and  four  men  in  it,  who  had  imprudently 
stayed  on  board  pumping  to  the  last  minute.  Just  at 
this  time  a  terrible  rain-storm  commenced.  We  had  three 
miles  to  row  before  we  could  arrive  at  a  place  where  we 
could  land  in  safety.  All  this  while  I  was  bare-headed, 
occasioned  by  the  main-boom's  knocking  my  cap  off  at 
the  time  when  I  was  getting  into  the  boat.  At  last  we 
landed  on  the  desired  spot  in  the  midst  of  a  cold  and 
chilly  rain,  which  had  nearly  chilled  us  through  ;  and 
to  add  to  our  present  distress,  we  were  under  the  neces- 
sity of  passing  a  miserable  night  under  the  boats.  To- 
wards morning  the  rairi-storrn  turned  into  a  severe  freez- 
ing snow-storm  which  prevented  us  from  proceeding  to 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  151 

the  ship  with  the  mournful  news  of  our  disaster.  How- 
ever, the  severity  of  the  storm  did  not  prevent  me  from 
executing  my  desires  in  discovering  the  remains  of  the 
vessel.  Accordingly  I  prevailed  on  one  of  the  boys  to 
accompany  me  three  miles  down  the  beach  to  discover 
if  possible  the  remains  of  the  wreck,  and  wre  had  the 
satisfaction  of  enjoying  the  reward  of  our  labor.  We 
saw  at  a  short  distance  from  the  island  the  top  of  the 
sloop's  mast  above  water. 

Having  made  this  important  discovery  we  immediately 
returned  to  our  company,  and  without  acquainting  any 
one,  launched  the  little  boat  and  proceeded  to  the  sun- 
ken vessel.  We  found  the  top  of  the  mast  and  the 
peak  of  her  gaff  above  water.  Having  made  this  dis- 
covery we  returned  and  gave  information  to  the  officers 
to  that  effect,  which  in  some  degree  revived  their  droop- 
ing spirits  and  raised  their  fu'ure  hopes  of  her  recovery. 

After  this  we  proceeded  to  the  ship  bearing  ihe  mel- 
ancholy tidings,  which  so  affected  the  captain  that  he  was 
near  putting  an  end  to  his  existence.  Early  on  the  fol- 
lowing morning  we  were  hastily  aroused  to  man  the 
boats  and  proceed  immediately  to  the  assistance  of  the 
schooner  which  was  then  drifting  on  the  rocks  at  the 
mouth  of  the  harbor  by  the  severity  of  the  north- 
west gale  which  was  then  blowing  out  of  the  har- 
bor. We  rowed  directly  on  board  of  the  schooner  and 
boarded  just  at  the  time  when  her  stern  post  was  twenty 
feet  from  the  perpendicular  black  rocks,  against  which 
she  must  have  been  inevitably  knocked  to  pieces  had  it 
not  been  for  our  united  exertions  in  cutting  her  cable  and 
swinging  her  off  clear.  She  drifted  out  of  the  harbor  to 
encounter  the  furious  gale,  which  was  then  raging  with 
unwonted  fury. 

We  were  now  in  the  midst  of  the  mighty  deep  to  en- 
dure the  hardship  and  severity  of  a  tremendous  gale, 
which  continued  to  rage  over  twelve  days,  during  which 
time  we  were  in  a  state  of  starvation,  there  being  a  de- 
ficiency of  provision  on  board  of  the  vessel.  We  were 
driven  off  into  the  ocean  at  a  great  distance  and  we  gave 
up  all  hopes  of  ever  regaining  the  land.  But  at  last  the 


152  LIFE    ATfD    TRAVELS 

wind  changed  suddenly  in  our  favor,  and  enabled  us 
once  more  to  regain  the  ship. 

After  our  arrival,  preparations  were  made  to  raise  the 
sloop.  Accordingly  all  things  being  ready  we  proceeded 
to  the  Bay  of  Islands,  and  after  waiting  a  favorable  op- 
portunity, the  sloop  was  raised  to  the  surface  of  the  wa- 
ter by  the  schooner,  but  in  conseqnence  of  the  quantity 
of  stone  ballast  she  had  in  her,  which  served  to  increase 
her  weight  greatly,  the  cable  with  which  she  was  raised, 
parted  before  a  preventive  could  be  got  round  her  and 
she  again  fell  to  the  bottom,  and  not  having  another  op- 
portunity to  raise  her  in  consequence  of  the  severity  of 
the  weather,  she  became  a  total  loss  which  was  grie- 
vously felt  by  us  all.  The  loss  of  the  sloop  and  sixty 
or  seventy  tons  of  blubber,  struck  a  dead  blow  at  the 
prosperity  of  our  voyage. 

After  our  failure  in  raising  the  sloop,  the  schooner  ac- 
companied by  two  boat's  crews  was  despatched  round 
the  island  in  search  of  seals,  the  season  for  elephants 
being  then  over. 

We  continued  our  unwearied  exertions  in  the  midst 
of  a  severe  winter  season  round  this  perilous  shore  for 
three  successive  months,  during  which  time  my  life  had 
been  three  different  times  in  most  imminent  danger. 
Once  by  falling  into  the  sea  from  an  iceberg  over  which 
we  were  launching  our  boat.  At  another  time  I  was 
accidentally  pushed  into  the  sea  by  a  blundering  Irish  boy 
from  the  top  of  a  slippery  rock,  twenty  feet  high,  but 
fortunately  the  back  surf  took  me  off  from  the  rock, 
which  gave  the  boat  that  was  lying  off  a  chance  to  pick 
me  up  and  thus  once  more  I  was  saved  from  a  watery 
grave  by  an  interposition  from  heaven. 

After  we  had  taken  from  the  south  side  of  the  island 
six  thousand  seals,  our  provision  being  short,  it  was 
deemed  advisable  to  proceed  to  the  ship  to  prepare  for 
the  pupping-cow!  season,  as  it  was  now  near  Spring. 
Accordingly  we  proceeded  to  examine  every  place  on 
our  way  taking  up  our  lodgings  at  night  on  board  of  the 
schooner  ;  but  in  case  that  we  should  be  separated  from 
the  schooner  by  a  storm  we  generally  took  a  week's  pro- 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  153 

vision  in  the  boat,  which  was  allowed,  in  common  chances, 
to  be  sufficient  to  take  us  to  the  ship. 

It  so  happened  one  day  that  our  boat  fell  in  with  a 
number  of  seals,  in  consequence  of  which  we  were  be- 
lated and  were  unable  to  reach  the  schooner  that  even- 
ing. This  compelled  us  to  seek  refuge  on  shore  for  the 
night,  anticipating  fair  weather  in  the  morning  to  proceed 
on  our  way  towards  the  ship,  which  was  then  100  miles 
distant.  On  awaking  in  the  morning  we  ascertained  that 
our  anticipations  would  probably  not  be  realized,  it  was 
then  blowing  a  gale  from  the  south-west,  which  necessa- 
rily compelled  the  schooner  to  make  the  best  of  her 
way  towards  the  ship  as  the  wind  was  favorable  for  her, 
and  at  the  same  time  compelled  us  to  remain  inactive, 
notwithstanding  our  critical  situation  for  three  successive 
weeks,  which  was  the  duration  of  the  gale.  Our  pro- 
vision being  exhausted  in  the  course  of  6  days,we  were  un- 
der the  necessity  of  sustaining  nature  on  Penguin's  hearts 
and  livers,  and  occasionally  on  the  carcass  itself.  But 
notwithstanding  our  necessity  I  was  thankful  that  our 
lot  was  cast  where  it  was  ;  for  it  happened  to  be  in  the 
midst  of  a  large,  king-penguin  rookery,  and  had  it  been 
at  any  other  place  we  must  inevitably  have  starved  to 
death  before  a  favorable  change  in  the  weather  took 
place.  This  food  although  it  satisfied  the  cravings  of 
nature,  was  inadequate  to  maintain  the  healthy  standard 
of  the  human  constitution,  consequently  our  flesh  wasted 
away  to  an  incredible  extent. 

After  the  gale  was  over  we  exerted  our  remaining 
strength  and  fortitude  and  again  launched  our  little  boat 
into  the  deep,  and  having  a  light  favorable  breeze  pro- 
ceeded towards  the  ship,  to  which  we  arrived  in  three 
days  to  the  astonishment  of  the  crew,  who  had  given 
us  up  for  lost.  We  were  so  altered  in  our  external  ap- 
peaiance  in  consequence  of  our  sufferings  and  privations 
that  we  were  unknown  at  first  sight  to  many  of  the  crew, 
but  what  added  much  to  our  change  and  appearance  was 
the  state  of  our  skins  which  came  off  in  flakes  as  large 
as  a  dollar,  and  continued  to  do  so  until  the  whole  of  our 
skin  had  been  completely  renewed. 

After  a  few  weeks  respite,having  recruited  our  strength 


154  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

we  again  commenced  operation,  and  in  three  months, 
notwithstanding  the  severe  losses  which  we  had  sustained, 
we  finally  succeeded  in  filling  our  ship,  and  in  the  middle 
of  January  sailed  for  England  with  400  tuns  of  oil  and 
ten  thousand  seal  skins. 

On  our  passage  home  we  touched  at  Fernanda  norona 
to  refresh.  It  is  a  Portuguese  island  jpn  the  coast  of 
Brazil,  a  mere  rock,  where  they  used  then  to  transport 
their  convicts  from  the  main.  The  next  place  we  touch- 
ed at  to  refresh  was  at  Fayal,  one  of  the  Azore  islands, 
which  is  also  a  Portuguese  island  with  a  considerable  of 
a  town  and  population,  enjoying  a  prosperous  share  of 
of  trade. 

Having  refreshed,  the  ship  we  proceeded  to  London, 
where  we  arrived  in  ten  weeks  to  the  joy  of  all. 

On  out^arrival  at  London  we  ascertained  thfi  failure  of 
our  owneryin  consequence  of  which  thtfship  and  cargo  fell 
into  the  hands  of  his  creditors. 

As  my  time  had  now  expired,  I  was  left  destitute  of 
all  means  to  sustain  life,  having  neither  money  nor  friends 
to  assist  me  in  my  destitute  condition.  But  had  I  been 
justly  treated  by  the  assignees  I  should  not  have  been 
under  the  necessity  of  suffering  privation,  as  £3  of  my 
apprentice  money  was  due  to  me  and  five  or  six  more 
justly  due  me  for  my  over  time.  But  having  no 
means  to  compel  them  to  settle  the  apprentices' accounts, 
I  as  well  as  the  rest  was  unjustly  deprived  of  my  hard 
earnings. 

Being  placed  in  low  circumstances  I  was  under  the 
necessity  of  pledging  my  clothes  from  time  to  time  to 
procure  food. 

Four  weeks  after  my  arrival  in  London,  J  succeeded 
in  obtaining  a  ship  going  a  voyage  to  the  same  island,  and 
as  I  had  served  my  time  in  that  trade  and  possessed  con- 
siderable knowledge  of  the  country  I  was  the  more  read- 
ily accepted  by  the  captain. 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  155 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Departure  from  London  in  the  ship  Admiral,  Coalpoise;  touches  at 
St.  Jago  ;  arrival  ai  South  Georgia  ;  the  ship  is  secured  in  the 
harbor  ;  commences  operations  ;  successful  enterprize  ;  visited 
by  an  iceberg,  which  drifted  on  the  ship's  anchor  ;  loss  of  the 
ship  and  part  of  her  cargo  ;  arrival  of  the  author  in  London. 

NINTH    VOYAGE. 

In  the  latter  part  of  May,  1818,  I  sailed  in  the  ship 
Admiral,  Coalpoise,  bound  to  South  Georgia.  Having 
left  London,  we  proceeded  on  our  voyage  with  jovial 
hearts,  anticipating  a  short  and  prosperous  voyage.  On 
our  passage  out  we  touched  at  the  Island  of  St.  Jago  for 
live  stock  ;"  and  after  having  sufficiently  supplied  the 
vessel,  we  again  made  sail  on  our  swift  little  ship  and 
proceeded  to  our  destined  isle,  without  meeting  with 
any  thing  of  special  interest  on  our  passage.  At  last, 
after  great  and  diligent  exertions  on  the  part  of  the  cap- 
tain and  crew  to  make  the  passage  as  short  as  possible, 
we  succeeded  in  making  the  land  in  nine  weeks  from 
the  day  of  our  departure  from  the  Land's  End  of  En- 
gland. 

We  run  down  the  south  side  of  the  island  and  enter- 
ed a  small  harbor,  denominated  the  Rookery,  in  which 
we  brought  our  little  ship  to  anchor  and  secured  head 
and  stern,  and  immediately  after  proceeded  to  strike 
down  h*er  top-masts  and  prepare  her  for  the  season. 
The  ship  being  now  safely  secured,  the  boats  were  de- 
patched  to  the  nearest  beaches,  which  were  lined  with 
animals,  to  commence  the  slaughter.  We  continued  our 
work  with  such  success,  that  in  10  weeks  we  succeeded 
in  putting  into  the  ship  1500  barrels  of  oil,  out  of  1800, 
which  was  supposed  to  have  been  sufficient  to  fill  her. 
Thus  far  we  had  succeeded  well  in  our  enterprize  ;  but 
notwithstanding  the  extraordinary  success  with  which  we 
were  favored,  we  soon  experienced  a  reverse  of  fortune. 


156  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

We  were  now  visited  by  a  severe  gale  of  wind  ;  it 
continued  its  fury  for  several  days  in  succession,  by 
which  means  a  tremendous  iceberg  was  driven  into  the 
mouth  of  our  little  harbor,  which  continued  its  progress 
until  it  had  completely  entered  the  harbor  and  grounded 
at  a  short  distance  from  our  anchor.  This  circumstance 
was  the  cause  of  producing  an  unusual  degree  of  excite- 
ment and  alarm  among  the  crew  for  the  safety  of  the 
vessel. 

Every  possible  means  was  employed  for  the  preser- 
vation of  the  vessel.  Cannon  were  fired  as  a  means  of 
demolishing  the  iceberg,  but  without  effect.  The  gale 
still  continued  to  blow  from  the  south,  which  was  the 
cause  of  an  unusual  high  tide.  This  rolled  the  iceberg 
in,  until  finally,  it  rested  upon  our  anchorage  and  cable, 
the  latter  of  which  was  soon  severed  by  it  and  our 
beautiful  little  ship  immediately  went  on  shore  and  bilg- 
ed on  the  rocks,  with  which  the  unlucky  harbor  was 
trongly  hemmed. 

Previous  to  this  lamentable  disaster  I  had  cherished 
exalted  anticipations  of  prosperity,  in  this  voyage  ;  but 
my  anticipations  now  vanished.  The  ship  was  a 
complete  wreck  and  all  hopes  of  her  recovery  were 
banished  from  our  minds.  A  large  hole  was  now  cut  in 
her  lee-side  and  a  great  part  of  the  cargo  was  saved  by 
this  means  and  taken  by  the  shallop  to  another  ship 
which  belonged  to  the  same  owners  and  which  laid  60 
miles  from  us.  In  her  we  obtained  a  passage  to  En- 
gland, which  was  performed  in  three  months.  Thus,  af- 
ter the  absence  of  nine  months,  1  again  arrived  in  Lon- 
don, as  poor  as  I  left  it. 

The  quantity  of  oil,  saved  from  the  wreck,  did  not 
exceed  7  or  800  barrels.  This,  according  to  my  lay,  did 
not  give  me  a  share  of  more  than  3  barrels,  and  this 
was  scarcely  sufficient  to  defray  my  expenses.  But  on 
this  occasion  I  did  not  suffer  privations  ;  having  obtain- 
ed a  boarding  place  on  the  credit  of  the  succeeding 
voyage. 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  157 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Departure  of  the  Hetty ;  touches  at  Bonavista  ;  narrow  escape  of 
being  washed  overboard  ;  arrival  at  Falkland  islands  5  enter 
Barclay's  Sound  •  arrival  at  South  Shetland  ;  proceed  along  the 
coast ;  come  to  anchor  and  narrowly  escape  being  lost  ;  search 
after  seal  and  discover  a  ship's  harbor,  in  an  opposite  island  j 
arrival  at  the  harbor  and  meet  several  vessels  there  ;  the  shore 
lined  with  seals  ;  landing  of  the  boats'  crews  to  kill  seals  ;  pre- 
vented from  killing  them  by  other  ships'  crews  ;  search  for  a 
new  sealing  ground  ;  strange  crews  attempt  a  landing  ;  they 
are  prevented  ;  they  walk  overland  and  succeed  in  killing  8000 
seals  ,  detected  and  driven  off  the  beach ;  near  escape  of  being 
drowned  ;  seized  by  a  large  sea  lion  ;  departure  for  England  ; 
arrival  at  London  j  the  owners  defraud  the  crew  ;  law-suit  with 
the  owners. 

TENTH    VOYAGE. 

In  the  course  of  a  few  weeks  I  shipped  on  board  of 
the  schooner  Hetty,  of  London,  bound  on  a  whaling  and 
sealing  voyage,  to  the  then  newly  discovered  islands  of 
New  South  Shetland,  situate  in  latitude  65  degrees 
south.  We  sailed  on  this  voyage  in  the  summer  of 
1820. 

Having  sailed  down  the  channel,  we  took  our  depart- 
ure from  the  Land's  End,  of  England,  and  steered  our 
course  direct  for  Bonavista,  a  Portuguese  island,  to  pro- 
vide the  vessel  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  salt  for  the 
purpose  of  salting  seal-skins.  We  were  more  than 
usually  favored  with  a  pleasant  and  fair  wind,  which  in 
twenty  days  conveyed  us  to  the  destined  port  in  safety. 

Previous  to  arrival  at  Bonavista,  we  look  a  large  whale, 
which  made  75  barrels  of  oil.  At  this  place,  having  ta- 
ken a  sufficient  supply  of  salt,  we  again  weighed  anchor 
and  cheefully  proceeded  towards  the  south  pole,  unmo- 
lested, until  we  approached  near  Falkland  islands,  where 
we  experienced  some  rough  and  severe  weather,  and 
particularly  on  the  night  before  our  entering  the  harbor. 
I  came  near  being  washed  overboard  by  a  tremendous 


158  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

sea,  which  broke  over  the  vessel's  quarter  and  swept  me 
over  her  lee-rail  ;  and  had  I  not  happened  to  catch  hold 
of  the  lashing  of  a  water-cask  I  must  have  found  a  wa- 
tery grave. 

Early  in  the  morning,  we  entered  Barclay's  sound,  at 
the  head  of  which  we  came  to  anchor  for  the  purpose 
of  renewing  our  stock  of  water.  Here  we  remained  two 
weeks,  during  which  we  spent  several  days  in  shooting 
wild  geese,  with  which  the  island  abounds  ;  and  we  were 
also  successful  in  shooting  three  large  pigs,  and  a  large 
wild  bull,  which  served  to  supply  us  with  fresh  food  for 
some  time.  These  islands  are  worthy  of  cultivation,  as 
they  possess  good,  rich  and  extensive  tracts  of  land. 

From  Falkland  islands  we  took  our  departure  for  our 
destined  port,  at  which  we  arrived  after  making  a  pros- 
perous passage  of  two  weeks.  The  first  island  we  ap- 
proached was  high  and  terrific  in  appearance  ;  it  was  50 
or  60  miles  in  circumference  and  totally  devoid  of  a 
landing  place  for  human  beings.  Having  examined  it, 
we  sailed  towards  the  main  island,  which  was  a  long  tract, 
the  end  of  which  we  did  not  have  the  pleasure  of  dis- 
covering. About  sun-down  we  came  near  to  several 
small  islands  which  laid  about  20  miles  distant  from  the 
main.  Near  one  of  these  we  came  to  anchor  for  the 
night,  and  on  the  following  morning  we  proceeded  to 
examine  them  for  seals,  but  were  unsuccesful  in  our  at- 
tempts, not  finding  any  thing  except  a -few  sea-leopards. 
Meeting  with  no  successs  we  immediately  weighed  an- 
chor and  proceeded  towards  the  main  island  to  endea- 
vor to  discover  some  harbor,  but  finding  it  be  an  iron- 
bound  shore,  as  far  as  we  could  discover,  we  stood  to 
the  eastward  in  search  of  a  suitable  harbor.  We  sailed 
in  this  direction  for  two  days  passing  several  rocks,  reefs 
and  icebergs.  On  the  third  day  we  landed  on  a  small 
island,  after  rowing  round  it,  which  was  about  8  miles 
in  circumference  and  about  15  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  It  was  nearly  flat  on  its  surface  and  covered 
with  ice  and  snow.  But  what  mostly  attracted  our  at- 
tention and  for  which  we  could  not  account,  was  the 
number  of  rocks  of  different  sizes  which  overspread  its 
surface  and  had  not  the  least  visible  appearance  of  be- 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH,  159 

ing  united  with,  the  soilj  but  were  raised  and  sustained  by 
8  or  10  feet  of  ice  above  the  ground.  Some  of  the 
rocks  which  were  thus  supported  were  judged  to  weigh 
'20  tons.  But  the  question  arises,  how  came  they  so? 
The  question  which  is  here  propounded  is  a  problem  for 
the  reader  to  solve.  Having  examined  the  island  we 
proceeded  to  another  which  lay  15  miles  to  the  east- 
ward at  which  we  arrived  late  in  the  afternoon  ;  and 
finding  a  small  inlet,  we  came  to  anchor  in  supposed 
safety  for  the  night.  In  thev.  course  of  the  night  the 
wind  from  the  west  commenced  blowing  directly  into 
the  inlet,  and-by  sunrise  it  blew  a  heavy  breeze,  which 
alarmed  us  for  our  safety.  But  fortunately  for  us,  the 
wind  abated  before  it  changed,  for  had  it  changed  two 
points  either  way,  we  must  unavoidably  have  gone  on 
the  rocks,  as  the  inlet  would  not  admit  of  giving  the  ves- 
sel more  cable.  The  gale  abated  on  the  following  day, 
and  the  sky  became  clear  and  the  surrounding  elements 
serene,  which  gave  us  an  opportunity  to  proceed  in  our 
work  of  searching  round  the  island.  We  proceeded 
with  our  boats  to  different  parts  of  the  island,  which  was 
10  or  12  miles  long,  but-not  meeting  with  much  success, 
after  having  laid  there  three  days, during  which  time  we 
had  taken  300  seals,  we  left  for  another  island,  a  short 
distance  off',  at  which  we  soon  arrived  ;  and  after  a  day's 
search  along  the  coast,  we  succeeded  in  discovering  a 
ship-harbor,  in  which  were  several  vessels  lying  at  an- 
chor. Having  a  favorable  breeze,  we  succeeded  in  gain- 
ing the  harbor  in  which  we  came  to  anchor  and  were 
congratulated  on  our  safe  arrival  in. port,  by  the  several 
captains,  who  visited  us  on  fhe  occasion.  In  the  after- 
noon of  the  day  of  our  arrival,  our  boats  were  sent  on 
shore  with  strict  orders  to  slaughter  as  many  seals 
as  we  could.  But  on  our  landing,  we  were  met  by 
the  crews  of  three  vessels,  who  forbid  us  from  taking 
any,  claiming  the  beach  as  theirs,  as  they  had  first  taken 
possession  of  it  and  were  therefore  determined  to  de- 
fend it  as  their  own  ground  to  the  uttermost  in  their 
power.  This  was  a  difficulty  that  we  had  not  anticipat- 
ed ;  being  aware  that,  by  the  laws  of  nations,  they  had 
no  right  to  prevent  us  from  killing  the  animals  and  ap- 


160  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

propriating  them  to  the  benefit  of  our  voyage.  But  be- 
ing unable  to  enforce  our  rights  against  superior  numbers, 
we  reluctantly  left  the  beach  and  returned  to  the  vessel ; 
and  after  having  had  some  deliberation  on  the  course 
to  be  pursued,  we  were  sent  out  of  the  harbor  for 
seals. 

We  proceeded  along  the  coast,  the  distance  of  25 
miles  among  the  rocks  and  breakers,  searching  as  we 
went,  until  our  efforts  were  crowned  with  abundant  suc- 
cess, by  the  discovery  of  several  beaches  along  the  coast, 
which  \vere  thronged  with  these  animals  in  every  direc- 
tion. Having  been  blessed  in  our  discovery,  the  next 
question  was,  how  to  keep  possession  of  the  treasure  ; 
how  to  prevent  those  ships'  crews  from  landing  on  these 
beaches,  being  well  aware  of  our  inefficiency  to  repel 
them.  To  effect  this  we  divided  the  land,  which  was 
then  more  than  we  needed,  with  two  other  vessels, 
which  had  subsequently  arrived  in  the  bay,  and  by 
doing  this  our  party  became  the  strongest. 

The  other  crews,  finding  that  we  had  succeeded  in 
discovering  a  number  of  sealing-grounds,  superior  to 
their  own,  immediately  embraced  the  idea  of  land- 
ing, in  spite  of  our  opposition,  and  sharing  with  us  in 
our  good  fortune. 

Having  slain  all  the  seals  on  their  beach,  they  at- 
tempted a  landing  on  our  beach,  but  having  notice  of 
their  coming,  we  concentrated  our  forces,  and  prevent- 
ed their  landing  in  spite  of  all  their  efforts  to  effect  it. — 
Being  defeated  in  their  undertaking,  they  reluctantly 
returned  to  their  ships,  which  were  making  ready  to  sail 
for  England. 

Two  or  three  days  subsequent  to  this  occurrence,  we 
were  under  the  necessity  of  laboring  all  night,  shipping 
some  thousands  of  skins  on  board  of  our  vessel,  which 
we  had  previously  prepared  for  her.  Having  finished 
our  work  at  four  o'clock  in  the  morning,  we  retired  under 
our  boats  to  rest,  and  soon  closed  our  eyes  in  profound 
slumber,  in  which  we  continued  until  suddenly  aroused 
by  a  messenger  dispatched  from  the  ship  Indian's  crew, 
to  inform  us  of  a  stratagem  which  had  been  played  on 
us  by  the  crews  of  the  other  vessels,  who,  taking  advan- 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  161 

tage  of  our  sleep,  had  walked  over  land  to  our  beaches, 
and  slaughtered  8,000  seals. 

This  news  instantly  aroused  our  indignation,  and  we 
immediately  proceeded  to  the  relief  of  our  friends,  but 
not  without  previously  having  had  the  precaution  of 
sending  over  the  hill  to  request  the  assistance  of  our 
friends  there  to  drive  the  intruders  from  the  beach.  Our 
forces  soon  arrived  at  the  ship  Indian's  tent,  the  place 
where  they  had  slaughtered  the  most,  and  where  they 
had  made  a  stand  to  commence  skinning  the  seals  they 
had  killed.  On  our  arrival  they  were  immediately  or- 
dered off  the  beach  by  our  officers,  who  at  the  same  time 
warned  them  on  their  peril  not  to  touch  a  single  seal. — 
This  so  exasperated  their  officers,  that  they  immediately 
commeTiced  skinning,  and  dared  any  man  to  interrupt 
them  on  the  penalty  of  the  law,  threatening  our  officers 
with  prosecution  on  our  return  to  England. 

The  leading  men  of  our  party,  seeing  their  audacity, 
instantly  collared  their  leaders  to  prevent  them  from  far- 
ther prosecuting  their  obstinate  design.  This  act  im- 
mediately threw  the  parties  into  confusion,  which  result- 
ed in  a  general  and  bloody  engagement,  in  which  many 
were  severely  injured.  After  they  had  been  dealing  out 
their  blows  for  some  time,  two  or  three  of  us,  who  had 
been  standing  aloof  from  the  rest,  on  an  elevated  posi- 
tion witnessing  the  bloody  encounter,  drew  near  to  our 
mate  and  endeavored  to  induce  him  to  desist  from  the 
unprofitable  contest,  and  use  his  influence  to  bring  about 
a  general  pacification,  but  before  we  had  actually  suc- 
ceeded in  our  mediation,  the  opposite  party  gave  up  the 
contest,  and  retreated  over  land  to  their  ships,  which 
sailed  for  England  in  a  few  days. 

The  seals  which  had  been  killed  were  a  total  loss  to 
both  parties,  as  they  were  left  to  rot  upon  the  beach, 
our  party  being  apprehensive  of  the  threatened  law-suit 
on  our  arrival  home. 

We  continued  sealing,  as  our  vessel  Was  not  as  yet 
full.     Our  task  was  hard,  as  we  had   to  row  a  distance 
of  25  miles  on  our  excursions,  a  great  part  of  the  way 
among  rocks  and  dangerous  breakers. 
21 


162  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

In  performing  one  of  these  trips  I  came  near  being 
drowned  in  the  Bay  of  Plymouth.  This  happened  on 
our  return  from  the  vessel  to  the  beach.  It  was  bitter 
cold,  and  blowing  a  severe  breeze.  We  were  sailing  in 
company  with  another  boat,  but  our  companion,  owing 
to  his  good  trim,  gained  three-quarters  of  a  mile  ahead 
of  us,  and  we,  being  desirous  of  keeping  up,  carried  sail 
to  an  extreme,  and  notwithstanding  my  repeated  warn- 
ing to  the  young  man  who  held  the  sheet,  and  who,  by 
careful  attention  might  have  prevented  the  accident,  he 
held  on  to  the  sheet  and  laughed  at  my  fears,  when  a 
squall  struck  the  boat.  I  had  just  got  the  word  of  cau- 
tion out  of  my  mouth,  when,  in  an  instant  the  boat  was 
overset  by  the  violent  gust,  and  we  floated  by  her  side, 
grasping  after  her  for  our  lives.  Every  time  that  we 
grasped  at  the  boat  those  of  us  who  could  not  swim  sunk 
down  and  rose  up  again  to  make  another  attempt  at  her, 
as  she  went  round  and  round  with  us.  At  last,  after 
having  been  round  several  times,  the  mate  and  two  oth- 
ers, who  were  good  swimmers,  got  to  the  opposite  side 
of  us,  and  balanced  the  boat  bottom  up.  By  so  doing 
we  were  enabled  to  keep  on  her  bottom  until  taken  off 
by  the  other  boat's  crew,  who  came  to  our  assistance. 

While  on  the  boat  trembling  and  shivering  with  cold, 
the  young  man  to  whom  I  justly  attributed  the  blame  of 
our  present  misfortune,  who  a  few  minutes  before  had 
laughed  at  my  fears  and  my  caution,  was  so  fearful  and 
cowardly  that  he  could  not  refrain  from  crying.  I  was 
so  exasperated  with  him  at  the  time,  that  I  could  not 
avoid  striking  and  upbraiding  him  for  his  unmanly  con- 
duct in  permitting  the  boat  to  upset  when  he  could  have 
prevented  it.  Having  been  taken  into  the  other  boat, 
we  had  now  nine  miles  to  row  before  we  could  reach  a 
beach,  and  turn  over  our  boat  to  free  her  from  water. — 
We  were  between  two  and  three  hours  rowing  to  a  land- 
ing place,  where  we  righted  our  boat,  after  which  we 
went  on  board  the  vessel,  and  it  being  late  in  the  even- 
ing, remained  on  board  during  the  night,  and  in  the  morn- 
ing proceeded  to  the  sealing  ground  to  our  labor,  where 
we  arrived  in  safety. 
c  Two  or  three  days  subsequent  to  this,  another  accident 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  163 

took  place,  by  which  I  came  near  losing  my  left  leg  by 
the  bite  of  a  large  seal,  occasioned  by  missing  my  blow, 
when  it  immediately  siezed  me  above  the  knee,  but  I 
partly  avoided  its  grasp  by  stepping  backward  quickly, 
which  prevented  it  from  taking  a  strong  hold  on  my  thigh. 
Two  of  its  tusks  went  in  an  inch  deep,  the  other  two 
grazed  the  skin,  and  had  it  not  been  for  the  immediate 
assistance  of  one  of  my  ship-mates  near  me,  who  knock- 
ed the  seal  down,  it  would  have  succeeded  in  renewing 
its  hold  upon  my  limb,  which  must  have  been  torn  to  pie- 
ces or  broken  off.  We  continued  our  work,  and  in  a 
few  weeks,  accomplished  filling  our  vessel.  We  then 
sailed  for  England  with  15,000  seal  skins  and  75  barrels 
of  sperm  oil,  which  was  considered  a  good  voyage.  We 
proceeded  on  our  passage  towards  England,  where  we  ar- 
rived in  safety,  performing  our  voyage  from  London  and 
back  to  London  again,  in  ten  months  to  a  day. 

At. the  time  of  our  departure  from  the  island  for  En- 
gland, with  a  full  cargo,  our  hopes  were  elevated,  and 
our  prospects  for  a  profitable  voyage  were  flattering. — 
But  during  our  absence  the  market  prices  of  skins  had  fal- 
len fro/ii  30  shillings  to  6  shillings. 

After  the  arrival  of  the  vessel  in  London,  the  cargo 
was  taken  by  the  owners  and  put  into  a  store-house  for 
their  future  benefit,  while  the  crew,  with  the  exception 
of  three  of  us,  who  entered  an  action  against  them,  were 
paid  off  at  a  considerable  less  rate  than  the  market  price. 
In  consequence  of  these  fraudulent  proceedings,  the 
amount  of  their  wages  was  reduced  to  a  mere  trifle. 

The  suit  which  we  entered  against  the  owners,  was 
put  into  the  court  of  chancery,  there  to  remain  for  two 
years,  before  it  could  be  brought  to  trial.  Having  been 
on  shore  for  about  ten  weeks,  without  the  means  of  de- 
fraying my  expenses,  I  was  under  the  necessity  of  draw- 
ing ten  guineas  from  my  attorney  for  this  purpose. 

As  1  was  now  about  shipping  to  sail  round  Cape  Horn 
on  a  sperm-whale  voyage,  I  was  advised  to  give  the  lady 
with  whom  I  boarded  power  to  draw  the  balance  of  my 
voyage  after  the  trial  should  have  taken  place,  which  I 
expected  would  occur  during  my  absence  from  En- 
gland. The  document  was  drawn,  signed,  and  left  in 
her  possession. 


164  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 


CHAPTER   XIV. 

Departure  from  London ;  arrives  at  Cape  Horn ;  sails  by  Juan 
Fernandez ;  arrives  off  of  Arica  j  meets  with  success  •  arrives 
at  Payta ;  departure  from  Payta ;  a  large  school  of  whales  ;  the 
author  in  the  whale'b  mouth  ;  succeeds  in  killing  the  whale, 
which  makes  85  barrels  of  oil ;  attacks  another  school  ;   boat  is 
stove  ;  the  whale  takes  off  the  cooper  of  the  ship  on  her  back  ; 
arrival  at  the  Gallipagos  ;  takes  300  terrapins  ;  sails_for  the  wes- 
tern ground;  sails  for  Chili ;  touches  at  Easter  isle  ;  description 
or  the  natives,  the  island  and  its  productions  ;  arrives  at  Salango 
bay;  disturbance  in  the   ship;  arrival   at  the  Gallipagos;  des. 
enption  of  the  island  ;  sufferings  and  dangers  attending  terrapin- 
ning;  the  author  is  compelled  to  drink  terrapins  blood;  arrival  at 
Payta  ;  desertion  of  an  apprentice  ;  the  crew  is  tried  by  the  cap- 
tain of  the  port ;  the  crew  honorably  acquitted  by  the  captain  of 
the  port ;  the   crew  put  in  prison  ;  sufferings  and  losses  of  the 
author ;  sails   for  Guayaquil ;  arrives  and   ships  on  board  the 
Louiza ;  the  author  is  attacked  by  a  Bolivian  dragoon  ;  saite  with 
the  Colombian  expedition  for  Upper  Peru  ;  description  of  the  city 
and  the  surrounding  country;  arrival  of  the  expedition  at  Arica; 
disembarkation  of  the  army  for  the  interior ;  retreat  of  the  royal 
army  ;  division  of  the  Colombian  army  ;  the  royalists  attack  the 
Colombians  ;  defeat  of  the  Colombians  ;  disastrous  retreat  of  the 
Colombians  into  the  ship  ;  arrival  of  the  disastrous  expedition  at 
Callao  ;  the  author  leaves  his  ship  and  ships  on  board  the  Perse- 
verance ;  arrives  at  Panama ;  goes   to  Truxillo ;  taken   by  the 
pirates  ;  lady  Mosby  and  part  of  the  crew  are  put  into  a  small 
boat  at  a  distance  from  the  land  without  the  means  to  gain  the 
shore  ;  original  design  of  the  pirates  ;  the  author  takes  passage 
to  Guayaquil ;  the   pirates  frustrated  in  their  original  design; 
they  scuttle  the  vessel,  get  into  the  woods  and  are  detected  ;  re- 
covery of  the  Perseverance  ;  she  arrives  at  Guayaquil ;  execu- 
tion of  the  pirates  ;   the  author  ships  on  board  of  the  Per- 
severance  and  proceeds   on  a  smuggling  voyage  ;  travels  to 
the  city  of   Lima;  capture   of    Lima    and    Callao  ;     arrival 
of   the  Peruvian  squadron  at    Callao ;    the  author  is  pressed 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  165 

by  the  Spaniards  and  put  on  board  of  th*  Pasualla  brig  of 
war  j  the  Peruvian  attacks  the  Spanish  ships  at  Callao ;  a  se- 
vere battle  is  fought ;  ships  on  board  of  a  Spanish  privateer  ; 
takes  three  prizes  and  escapes  being  taken  by  the  Peruvi- 
an frigate ;  arrival  of  a  Spanish  squadron  at  Callao  from 
Spain  ;  battle  off  Callao  ;  return  of  the  squadron  to  Callao  ;  the 
author  leaves  the  war  brig,  and  witnesses  a  severe  battle  between 
Lima  and  Callao  ;  ships  on  board  of  the  Robert  of  London  •  the 
defence  of  Callao  •  the  siege  of  Callao  j  the  capitulation  of  Cal- 
lao ;  description  of  the  city  of  Lima ;  departure  for  England; 
arrival  at  Liverpool  j  has  a  severe  fever  j  is  robbed  while  his 
life  is  despaired  of. 

ELEVENTH    VOYAGE. 

Having  no  other  mode  of  obtaining  an  honest  liveli- 
hood I  was  under  the  necessity  of  shipping  on  another 
voyage,  and  accordingly  engaged  on  board  of  the  ship 
Spring  Grove,  of  London.  We  sailed  from  London  in 
1821  with  a  stout  and  jovial  crew.  We  proceeded  on 
our  passage,  which  proved  prosperous  until  we  arrived  off 
Cape  Horn,  where  we  met  with  severe  and  unfavorable 
winds,  which  continued  to  impede  our  passage  round  the 
cape  for  six  weeks.  Here  we  suffered  much  from  the 
severity  of  the  weather.  At  last  we  were  favored  with 
clear  weather  and  a  good  breeze  to  which  we  joyfully 
spread  our  lofty  sails  and  steered  our  bark  for  the  golden 
coast  of  Peru.  The  wind  still  continuing  in  our  favor, 
we  were  enabled  in  a  few  days  to  appear  within  sight  of 
the  Alpine  coast  of  Chili  and  soon  passed  by  the  roman- 
tic Isle  of  Juan  Fernandez,  which  gave  rise  to  the  inter- 
esting history  of  Robinson  Crusoe.  We  continued  our 
course  and  we  soon  arrived  off  the  town  of  Arica  where 
we  commenced  whaling,  and  in  two  months  took  in  500 
barrels  of  oil. 

As  the  whaling  season  on  this  ground  was  nearly  over, 
our  captain  deemed  it  advisable  to  take  the  ship  into  port 
to  refresh  the  crew  and  prepare  her  to  sail  westward  as  far 
as  110  deg.  west  longitude,  to  take  the  benefit  of  the 
season  there.  Accordingly  we  sailed  down  the  coast  and 
entered  the  port  of  Payta,  which  lies  in  the  latitude  of  5 


166  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

south.  After  having  laid  there  two  weeks,  recruiting, 
we  made  sail  for  the  Gallapagos  Islands,  where  we  were 
to  take  in  500  turtles  to  accomplish  the  recruitment  of 
the  ship  for  the  ensuing  season. 

We  had  not  sailed  many  miles  distance  from  the  har- 
bor when  we  were  apprised  by  the  man  at  the  mast- 
head of  a  large  school  of  whales,  being  very  near  the 
ship,  which  were  going,  heads  out,  with  great  rapidity 
to  the  windward.  We  immediately  lowered  our  boats  to 
meet  them  and  bring  the  school  to,  if  possible,  but  not- 
withstanding the  promptitude  with  which  we  performed 
this  duty,  some  of  the  school  had  already  passed  the 
ship  by  the  time  that  the  boats  had  shoved  off  in  pur- 
suit. We  had  not  gone  more  than  400  yards  to  wind- 
ward of  the  ship  when  all  at  once  we  were  surrounded 
by  hundreds  of  whales.  Among  this  vast  multitude  our 
mate  perceived  one  which  looked  larger  than  the  rest 
and  which  he  took  to  be  the  school-master.  As  he  was 
at  a  short  distance  from  us  we  immediately  rowed  to  him 
and  fastened.  The  whale  instantly  cut  his  flooks  and 
darted  ahead  with  the  velocity  of  a  cannon  ball  about  100 
yards,  and  went  down  all  at  once;  but  at  no  great  dis- 
tance beneath  the  surface.  This  was  known  by  the  short- 
ness of  the  time  that  he  was  beneath  the  water,  which 
could  not  have  exceeded  a  minute  before  we  found  our- 
selves completely  ingulfed  in  his  mouth.  How  it  hap- 
pened it  would  be  imposssible  to  describe,  as  the  water 
all  around  us  had  from  the  blood  which  flowed  freely  from 
the  wounds  of  several  whales  to  which  the  boats  were 
fastened,  become  a  sea  of  blood,  and  therefore  it  was 
impossible  for  us  at  the  same  time  to  discern  any  thing 
under  water;  but  had  the  water  been  clear  we  might  have 
avoided  the  danger.  Another  way  by  which  we  might 
have  shunned  the  danger  had  we  had  time  to  have  done 
so,  would  have  been  by  hauling  in  the  line  by  which 
we  were  fast  to  the  fish  ;  it  would  have  shown  us  the 
exact  direction  of  the  whale.  But  there  was  no  time 
|o  make  our  escape,  as  the  whale  came  up  under  the 
boat  with  his  mouth  open  and  completely  took  the  boat 
into  his  mouth.  Being  thus  ingulfed  in  the  whale's 
mouth  and  threatened  with  immediate  destruction  by 


Or    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  167 

the  shutting  of  his  jaws,  which  stood  erect  eight  feet 
above  water  exhibiting  two  tremendous  rows  of  teeth  the 
sight  of  which  were  sufficient  to  dismay  and  terrify  our 
hearts,  there  was  but  one  alternative  for  us  if  we  would 
save  ourselves  and  that  was  to  take  hold  of  his  jaw 
which  was  one  foot  from  my  shoulder,  and  keep  the  boat 
from  touching  his  teeth.  This  was  the  most  important 
thing  to  be  done  as  he  was  only  waiting  for  something  to 
touch  his  teeth  in  order  to  crush  it  in  a  moment ;  and 
as  I  was  the  nearest  to  it,  it  came  to  my  lot  to  perform 
this  most  dangerous  duty,  and  seeing  our  immediate, 
and  imminent  danger  I  did  not  hesitate,  but  instantly 
rose  and  stood  upon  the  gun-wale  of  the  boat,  placing 
each  of  my  hands  and  fingers  between  each  row  of  teeth 
and  kept  the  boat  v)fF,  and  at  the  same  time  pushed  the 
boat  ahead  and  she  cleared  the  whale.  Thus  we  were 
almost  miraculously  liberated  from  this  terrible  leviathan 
of  the  sea.  As  [  stood  up  on  my  feet  upon  the  gun- 
wale, 1  had  a  favorable  opportunity  of  seeing  the  true 
position  of  this  terrible  fish,  which  laid  rather  inclining 
on  his  back  with  his  mouth  open  to  its  greatest  extent, 
which  was  about  fifteen  feet  from  the  tip  of  his  lower 
jaw  to  his  upper  one,  and  which  spread  about  six  or 
eighth  feet  in  breadth  above  water.  The  whale  .soon 
straightened  and  was  killed  by  our  mate,  an  excellent 
whaleman.  The  whale  being  dead  he  was  towed  along 
side  of  the  ship,  cut  up,  and  converted  into  oil,  of  which 
he  made  85  barrels. 

Having  secured  the  oil  we  proceeded  towards  the  is- 
land, and  while  on  our  passage  we  fell  in  with  the  ship 
Leagle  of  London,  bound  to  ihe  same  islands,  and  while 
in  company  we  raised  a  school  of  whales,  which  were 
attacked  by  eight  boats  from  both  ships.  The  school 
appeared  to  have  been  disturbed  by  some  ship  to  the 
leeward,  as  they  were  going  very  swiftly  to  windward. 
All  our  boats  got  fast,  but  in  consequence  of  their  hav- 
ing been  disquieted  we  were  unable  to  bring  the  school 
to.  In  this  attempt  our  lines  and  boat?  became  foul  of 
each  other  in  consequence  of  which  we  got  one  boat 
stove,  and  the  Leagle  two,  but  what  was  to  be  lamented 
more  than  all,  was  the  loss  of  the  first  cooper  of  that 


163  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

ship.  The  boat  in  which  he  was,  was  cut  in  two  while 
working  on  the  whale  in  consequence  of  which  the  crew 
^/became  scattered  among  the  wreck  of  the  boat.  Unfor- 
tunately the  cooper  fell  on  the  whale's  back  and  grasped 
the  harpoon  which  was  fastened  in  her  back  and  was 
carried  down»  He  was  seen  by  us  several  times  on  the 
whale's  back,  as  she  alternately  sunk  and  rose  above 
water  to  blow.  After  this  we  proceeded  to  Woods'  Isl- 
and, and  came  to  anchor  in  a,suitable  harbor.  Here  we 
lay  three  days,  during  which  time  we  collected  200  ter- 
rapins for  the  cruise  and  then  proceeded  to  Charles' 
Island,  and  from  thence  to  Sea  bay  where  we  cruised 
several  days  without  seeing  the  spout  of  a  whale.  We 
then  proeeeded  to  the  westward. 

Having  arrived  on  what  was  called  good  whaling 
ground,  we  cruised  there  three  weeks  without  meeting 
with  the  anticipated  success,  and  then  departed  for  the 
coast  of  Chili.  On  our  passage,  we  touched  at  Easter 
island  to  obtain  some  refreshments  for  the  crew.  Here 
two  boats  were  sent  to  trade  with  the  natives,  while  the 
ship  laid  off  and  on.  The  bartering  articles  consisted  of 
bent  needles  and  pins,  buttons,  beads  and  other  trinkets, 
for  which  we  received  in  return  potatoes  and  sugar-cane. 
The  pins  and  needles  were  used  by  them  to  catch  fish, 
being  superior  to  the  native  fish-hooks,  which  were 
made  of  hard- wood  or  stone. 

Easter  island  is  about  60  miles  in  circumference,  and 
densely  populated  ;  the  general  appearance  of  the 
soil  along  the  sea-coast  is  of  a  dark  red,  and  the  soil  ap- 
pears to  be  good.  They  raise  sugar-cane,  yams  and  po- 
tatoes in  abundance.  These  productions  of  the  island, 
together  with  all  kinds  of  shell-fish,  which  they  procure 
plentifully,  constitute  their  means  of  subsistence. 

The  natives  are  of  a  light  color,  tall  and  handsome. 
Their  chiefs  are  handsomely  tattooed  on  their  faces, 
necks,  lips,  tongues  and  arms.  But  they  are  in  a  most 
savage  state,  in  consequence  of  which  we  did  not  ven- 
ture to  land,  but  were  under  the  necessity  of  laying  off 
in  our  boats  at  a  distance  from  the  shore,  while  the  na* 
lives  swam  to  us  with  their  goods.  In  this  manner,  we 
obtained  a  sufficient  quantity  of  potatoes  and  sugar-cane 


OF    THOMAS    W.  SMITH.  169 

to  refresh  the  crew,  and  thus  prevent  the  scurvy,  which 
frequently  visits  whale-ships  while  performing  their  long 
and  perilous  voyages. 

While  trading  with  the  natives,  we  were  under  the 
necessity  of  keeping  a  strict  lookout,  with  lances  in  our 
hands,  to  prevent  them  from  upsetting  our  boat  by  tak- 
ing hold  of  the  gunwale.  An  instance  of  this  kind  had 
previously  occurred  at  this  island,  in  which  the  whole  of 
the  boat's  crew  were  drowned,  and  the  boat  was  taken 
by  the  natives. 

We  now  proceeded  towards  the  coast  of  Peru  to  take 
the  second  whaling  season.  We  arrived  off  Arica, 
where  we  took  two  or  three  large  whales,  and  then  pro- 
ceeded to  Salango  Bay,  to  wood  and  water. 

While  lying  at  Salango,  a  disturbance  took  place  be- 
tween the  officers  and  the  men,  which  sprang  from  the 
vilest  of  personal  ill-treatment,  which  the  second  mate 
thought  fit  to  inflict  on  the  cooper,  without  any  just 
cause.  The  disturbance  was  amicably  settled  by  the 
captain's  promise  of  future  kind  treatment  to  the  crew. 

Having  watered  our  ship,  we  sailed  for  the  Gallipa- 
gos  islands  to  take  in  a  sufficient  number  of  terrapins  to 
last  for  the  ensuing  season  on  the  coast.  In  two  days 
we  arrived  at  Chatham  Island,  where  we  took  in  300 
large  terrapins.  The  Gallipagos  are  four  islands,  situ- 
ate on  or  near  the  equator  in  the  Pacific  ocean,  at  a 
distance  of  60  miles  from  the  main.  They  are  rocky 
and  covered  with  bushes  wherever  there  is  any  soil  in- 
termixt  with  the  rocks.  They  are  all  destitute  of  wa- 
ter, excepting  Charles'  Island,  which  has  one  spring  sit- 
tuate  on  the  summit  of  a  mountain,  denominated  Blue 
Morris,  in  consequence  of  its  resemblance  to  a  well- 
known  mountain  in  Wales  which  bears  that  name. 

These  islands  abound  with  terrapin,  on  and  in  the  in- 
terior of  the  sandy  beaches,  and  with  loggerhead-turtle 
which  resort  to  the  land,  at  a  certain  time  of  the  year, 
to  deposit  their  eggs  in  the  sand,  which  are  hatched  by 
the  powerful  rays  of  the  sun.  The  terrapin  resort  to 
the  low  lands  in  the  rainy  seasons,  drinking  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  water,  at  that  time, to  serve  them  during  the 
dry  season,  which  is  six  months.  They  then  retreat  to 
22 


170  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

high  ground,  in  consequence  of  which  the  labor  of  the 
ship's  crew,  who  go  there  to  collect  them,  is  great ; 
as  they  have  to  pass  through  a  thicket  of  bushes  for  a 
a  mile  or  two  before  they  can  fall  in  with  any  of  them. 

Individuals  have  strayed  away  in  these  thickets,  in 
search  of  terrapins,  and  not  being  able  to  find  their  way 
out,  have  perished  there  for  the  want  of  water.  My 
sufferings  in  this  particular,  as  well  as  those  of  some  of 
my  ship-mates,  were  great ;  and  we  at  times  were  under 
the  extreme  necessity  of  drinking  the  blood  of  the  ter- 
rapin, and  even  the  water  of  the  animal,  with  which 
they  like  the  camel  abundantly  provide  themselves  for 
the  season. 

Having  succeeded  at  last  in  obtaining  a  sufficient 
number  of  terrapin,  we  proceeded  to  the  weather  coast, 
to  cruise  for  whales,  in  the  approaching  season.  In  the 
commencement  of  this  season  we  took  several  large 
whales,  which  in  the  whole,  made  us  1200  barrels  of 
sperm  oil.  Subsequently  we  cruised  three  months  with- 
out seeing  the  spout  of  a  whale.  This  ill  luck  unfortu- 
nately for  us  frequently  drew  our  officers  into  the  indul- 
gence of  the  inebriating-cup,  which  had  a  tendency  to 
excite  their  animal  propensities,  and  they  frequently  be- 
came unreasonably  peevish  with  the  crew,  which  led  to 
a  general  dissatisfaction  and  a  final  separation  of  the 
parties. 

We  had  been  five  months  at  sea,  and  it  was  now 
deemed  advisable  to  enter  into  port  to  refresh  the  crew 
and  refit  the  ship,  which  was  accordingly  done.  After 
having  entered  the  port,  and  the  ship  being  ready  for 
sea,  a  circumstance  occurred  which  resulted  in  the  vol- 
untary forfeiture  of  my  voyage.  It  was  occasioned  by 
the  desertion  of  one  of  the  apprentices  from  the  ship. 
This  first  became  known  to  the  second  mate,  who,  with- 
out acquainting  the  captain,  had  the  audacity  to  take  it 
upon  himself  to  chastise  one  of  the  crew,  whom  he  ac- 
cused, without  any  positive  proof,  of  having  assisted 
him  to  desert. 

This  act  aroused  the  indignation  of  every  man  on 
board.  Several  of  the  crew  immediately  interfered,  and 
a  general  row  ensued,  but  which  was  quelled  by  theap- 


OF    THOMAS   W.    SMITH.  171 

pearance  of  the  captain  on  the  quarter  deck.  To  him 
the  crew  immediately  applied  for  a  redress  from  this 
gross  injustice  and  violation  of  the  civil  law  and  human 
rights. 

The  captain  not  only  refused  to  redress  the  present 
and  past  injuries  we  had  received,  but  also  refused  to 
promise  us  future  kind  treatment,  being  at  the  same  time 
under  the  influence  of  the  inebriating  cup.  On  hearing 
this  refusal  to  grant  us  justice,  from  his  besotted  lips,  the 
crew  retreated  to  the  forepart  of  the  ship,  to  deliberate 
and  decide  on  a  suitable  and  justifiable  course  to  be  pur- 
sued by  them.  After  solemn  deliberation,  viewing  them- 
selves in  a  critical  position,  they  deemed  it  advisable  to 
leave  the  ship  in  an  honorable  manner,  if  the  captain 
would  agree  to  their  proposition.  Having  arrived  at  this 
conclusion,  the  crew  immediately  informed  the  captain 
of  their  willingness  and  desire  to  leave  the  ship  and  for- 
feit their  voyage,  rather  than  continue  in  her  and  be 
driven  to  the  unpleasant  necessity  of  taking  the  ship  from 
him,  and  delivering  her  to  the  English  Commodore  at 
Callao,  which  otherwise  would  be  done  in  consequence 
of  his  mal-treatment. 

To  this  proposition  the  captain  very  readily  agreed, 
and  he  immediately  went  on  shore,  leaving  orders  to 
prepare  the  boat  to  take  us  on  shore.  We  commenced 
packing  up  our  things  and  taking  our  chests  on  deck ; 
but  while  engaged  in  this  business,  our  captain  returned 
on  board  with  the  port-master  and  a  number  of  soldiers. 
to  take  us  to  prison.  This  malicious  and  evil-mind- 
ed man  had  been  on  shore  and  misrepresented  our 
case  to  the  port-master,  who  being  a  conscientious  man, 
chose  to  ascertain  the  truth  by  a  thorough  personal 
examination  of  the  case,  by  the  aid  of  an  interpreter, 
whom  the  captain  had  provided.  The  interpreter  was 
an  Englishman,  and  a  man  of  no  reputation.  This  man 
misrepresented  our  case  in  such  a  manner  as  to  leave  no 
doubt  in  the  mind  of  the  port-master  of  our  mutinous 
conduct. 

This  mean  and  villainous  man,  was  undoubtedly 
bribed  by  our  captain  to  misrepresent  our  case,  in  order 
to  have  us  wrongfully  punished,  and  thus  indulge  his  re- 


112  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

venge,  which,  to  a  wicked  and  malicious  man,  is  a  deli- 
cious morsel.  But,  fortunately,  there  was  one  among 
us,  who  understood  every  word  that  was  said  by 
the  interpreter  to  the  captain  of  the  port,  and  who,  to 
the  surprise  and  astonishment  of  all  then  present,  posi- 
tively and  successfully  contradicted  the  infamous  misrep- 
resentation. After  the  interpreter  had  finished,  I  cour- 
teously addressed  the  port-captain,  who  was  surprised  at 
my  good  Spanish,  and  gave  him  a  full  detail  of  all  that 
had  transpired  between  us  and  the  officers  during  the 
voyage,  and  the  conclusion  to  which  we  had  arrived  in 
consequence  of  a  refusal  of  better  treatment,  and  the 
acquiescence  of  the  captain  to  our  leaving  the  ship.  My 
relation,  to  which  all  the  crew  solemnly  testified,  affected 
the  moral  feelings  of  the  port-master,  a  religious  old  man 
and  a  philanthropist,  to  such  a  degree  as  to  draw  out  the 
sympathies  of  his  moral  nature,  which  he  honestly  pour- 
ed forth  upon  our  unfortunate  heads  by  saying,  "pobias- 
itoS)  unastadoastes  maltratados"  poor  fellows,  you  have 
been  maltreated. 

Having  finished  my  narration  of  facts,  he  turned  to 
the  interpreter,  who  had  his  malicious  eyes  fixed  on  me 
during  my  relation,  and  said,  "I  see  no  cause  for  impris- 
oning these  men,  and  if  the  captain  rather  than  use  them 
kindly,  as  men  who  have  always  performed  their  duty 
with  the  greatest  alacrity,  as  he  himself  acknowledges, 
prefers  their  leaving  the  ship,  I  shall  not  interfere  with  it." 
So  saying  he  got  into  his  boat,  and  proceeded  on  shore 
with  all  his  assistants. 

We  then  passed  all  our  things  into  the  boat,  and  went 
on  shore,  accompanied  by  two  boys  and  the  second  mate, 
who  were  to  take  the  boat  back  to  the  ship.  We  were 
permitted  to  lodge  our  things  in  the  house  of  one  Fran- 
cisco, a  benevolent  and  sympathetic  Spaniard. 

After  having  been  on  shore  about  two  hours,  we  were 
all  summoned  by  two  alcaids  or  constables  to  appear  im- 
mediately in  the  presence  of  the  port-master,  who  was 
then  waiting  at  his  house  to  see  us.  We  immediately 
obeyed  the  mandate,  and  proceeded  to  the  house,  with 
some  anxiety  as  to  the  cause  and  result  of  this  unexpect- 
ed summons.  We  were  conducted  by  the  alcaids  into 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  173 

a  spacious  room  into  which  the  captain  of  the  port  soon 
came  and  addressed  us  in  a  fatherly  manner  by  the  ap- 
pellation of  sons.  Said  he,  addressing  me,  "  I  have 
now  to  inform  you  that  I  am  under  the  painful  ne- 
cessity of  committing  you  all  to  jail  for  a  short  time  by 
a  special  order  which  I  have  received  from  the  Gov- 
ernor of  this  town."  This  declaration  somewhat  as- 
tonished us.  We  expostulated  with  him  on  the  im- 
propriety and  injustice  of  the  act,  adding  that  if  they 
took  it  .upon  themselves  to  imprison  us  and  inflict  per- 
sonal violence  without  any  just  cause,  we  should  be  un- 
der the  necessity  of  writing  to  the  British  Commodore 
then  lying  at  Callao  for  his  protection,  who  would  imme- 
diately come  to  our  assistance  and  release  us  and  demand 
redress  for  our  detention  and  imprisonment.  He  added 
that  there  would  be  no  necessity  for  that,  as  the  gover- 
nor did  not  intend  to  injure  us,  but  merely  meant  to  con- 
fine us  to  satisfy  our  captain  who  hr.d  made  application 
to  him  to  that  effect.  He  then  advised  us  to  submit  to 
our  temporary  confinement  for  two  or  three  days,  pledg- 
ing his  word  and  honor  that  no  violence  should  be  clone 
to  our  persons,  and  that  he  would  see  that  we  were  lib- 
erated as  soon  as  the  ship  sailed  out  of  the  port,  and  that 
after  our  liberation  he  would  give  us  passage  to  Guaya- 
quil where  we  could  easily  obtain  a  ship  to  sail  in. 

Seeing  ihat  there  was  no  alternative,  we  reluctantly 
submitted  to  our  fate,  cherishing  a  hope  that  our  unjust 
imprisonment  would  finally  result  to  our  future  advantage. 
Accordingly  we  were  imprisoned.  We  remained  there 
a  week  during  which  time  we  suffered  intolerably  with 
thirst.  This  was  occasioned  by  the  scarcity  of  water  in 
this  town,  there  being  neither  well,  spring  nor  fountain 
in  it.  The  inhabitants  were  under  the  necessity  of  bring- 
ing their  water  on  mules  from  the  river  Colong,  which 
is  nine  miles  from  the  town  of  Payta.  As  we  were  not 
allowed  any  thing  by  the  town  to  sustain  nature,  \\e  were 
under  the  necessity  of  purchasing  our  water  and  provis- 
ion from  the  Spanish  Indians,  who  took  every  advantage 
of  us  ;  and  as  we  had  no  money  with  which  to  purchase 
the  necessaries  of  life,  we  were  compelled  by  actual  ne- 


174  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

cessity  to  part  with  the  best  of  our  sea  clothes,  the  only 
decent  wearing  apparel  we  possessed. 

The  captain  of  the  port  honorably  fulfilled  his  word 
by  liberating  us  from  the  loathsome  and  filthy  prison  as 
soon  as  the  ship  had  got  under  way. 

I  was  now  left  destitute  of  all  necessaries  of  life,  in  a 
strange  land,  whose  barren  surface  and  scorching  sands, 
bore  a  strong  resemblance  to  the  deserts  of  Arabia.  We 
had  no  prospect  of  obtaining  employment  by  which  we 
might  gain  a  subsistence,  as  there  was  no  business  of  any 
kind  carried  on  in  the  place.  We  were  in  a  suffering 
condition,  but  still  it  was  not  to  be  deplored  as  we  had 
acted  under  the  influence  of  high  and  honorable  feelings. 
1  had  sacrificed  $400  of  my  hard  earnings,  which  was 
my  just  due,  the  value  cf  my  share  of  oil  on  board  of 
the  ship. 

The  captain,  who  was  the  sole  cause  of  our  sufferings 
and  sacrifices,  put  over  $'3,000  of  our  hard  earnings  into 
the  owner's  pocket  by  compelling  us  to  leave  the  ship 
contrary  to  the  law  of  God,  which  requires  us  lo  do  un- 
to others  as  we  wish  to  be  done  bv-  This  evil  practice 
is  extensively,  wickedly  and  designedly  carried  on  by 
wicked  men  in  all  parts  of  the  world.  We  remained  af- 
ter getting  out  of  jail  in  Payta  two  weeks,  during  which 
time,  through  necessity,  we  were  compelled  to  satisfy 
the  cravings  of  hunger  with  one  meal  of  boiled  rice  per 
day.  Our  bed  consisted  of  the  bare  ground,  which  is 
the  only  floor  that  houses  have  in  that  town.  At  the 
expiration  of  two  weeks  an  American  ship  arrived,  in 
which  by  the  intercession  of  the  captain  of  the  port,  we 
obtained  a  passage  to  the  city  of  Guayaquil. 

On  my  arrival  at  Guayaquil  I  shipped  on  board  of  a 
sloop  belonging  to  an  English  merchant,  who  resided 
there.  I  stayed  in  her  three  months  and  then  shipped 
on  board  of  the  ship  Louiza,  a  troop  ship. 

Previously  to  our  sailing  from  this  port,  while  on  shore 
one  evening  watching  for  our  captain,  1  came  near  losing 
my  life  by  the  ruthless  hand  of  a  Bolivian  dragoon,  who 
furiously  attacked  me,  sword  in  hand,  while  standing  on 
the  bank  of  the  river  watching  the  boat.  The  villain 
acccooipanied  his  desperate  pass  by  the  demand:  "  Sa- 


OF    THOMAS    W.   SMITH.  175 

calaplata  englas  o  tomato. r'  take  out  your  silver,  En- 
glishman, or  I  will  kill  you.  This  was  his  meaning,  but 
in  this  he  was  soon  brought  to  realize  his  mistake.  1  had 
been  taught  the  science  of  the  sword  and  the  stick  in  my 
youth,  while  on  board  of  H.  M.  ship,  which  in  many  in- 
stances of  self-defence,  subsequently  I  found  to  be  use- 
ful, and  particularly  so  in  this  case.  It  had  been  an  es- 
tablished custom  of  mine  since  1  had  become  acquainted 
with  the  malicious  and  treacherous  disposition  of  the 
Spaniards  and  the  strong  hatred  which  they  usually  in- 
dulge against  the  English,  to  provide  myself  with  some 
weapon  of  defence,  having  been  unjustly  assaulted  by 
them  on  several  occasions.  On  this  I  had  the  precau- 
tion of  providing  myself  with  the  boats'  tiller  with  which 
I  carried  off  his  pass  and  quickly  struck  him  on  his  arm 
two  blows,  by  which  he  was  compelled  to  drop  his  mur- 
derous weapon.  This  was  all  done  in  a  moment.  But 
what  greatly  contributed  to  my  success  was  the  intimi- 
dation with  which  he  was  struck  at  the  time  he  made  his 
pass  at  me  by  my  responding  to  him  in  plain  Spanish  : 
"Picaro  que  staosta  hvciendo  go  ltd  are  parte  al  Leber- 
tador  de  sto"  The  meaning  of  this,  is  :  rogue,  what 
are  you  doing?  I  will  inform  the  liberator  of  this.  This 
undoubtedly  had  an  influence  to  relax  the  power  of  his 
pass,  as  he  did  not  expect  that  I  could  talk  the  Spanish 
language,  I  had  but  just  possessed  myself  of  his  wea- 
pon, when  he,  finding  himself  defeated,  called  some  per- 
son by  name,  and  immediately  another  man  stood  before 
me,  sword  in  hand  and  demanded  the  sword  from  me 
without  hesitation.  This  I  refused  to  do  unless  they 
would  consent  to  accompany  me  to  the  American  house. 
To  this  proposition  they  readily  complied  and  we  imme- 
diately proceeded  to  the  house  which  was  100  yards 
from  us.  On  our  arrival  there  I  left  the  sword  in  the 
hands  of  the  landlord,  with  the  instruction  to  deliver  it  up 
to  him  in  the  morning,  provided  he  would  promise  that 
the  like  should  not  occur  again.  Here  I  met  with  the 
boat's  crew,  who  had  been  indulging  themselves  with  a 
glass  of  wine.  With  them  I  returned  to  the  boat  and  soon 
after  the  arrival  of  the  captain,  we  returned  to  the  ship. 
This  city  about  this  time  was  in  a^state  of  excitement, 


176  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

caused  by  the  daily  arrival  of  the  Colombian  troops  from 
the  city  of  Quito,  which  were  pouring  in,  in  great  num- 
bers. The  city  squares  and  broad  streets  were  continu- 
ally thronged  with  drilling  troops,  both  on  horses  and 
foot,  and  there  was  scarcely  any  thing  to  be  heard  for  a 
few  days,  but  the  clashing  of  swords,  the  report  of  fire- 
arms, and  the  heavy  trampling  of  the  furious  war-horse, 
accompanied  by  the  reverberating  sound  of  the  war 
horns. 

As  soon  as  the  troops  were  embarked,  the  expedition 
sailed  with  6,000  men  for  Upper  Peru,  to  vanquish  the 
Spanish  army,  then  commended  by  the  intrepid  and  in- 
vincible general,  Canlarel. 

The  city  of  Guayaquil  is  situated  on  an  extensive  plain, 
the  most  of  which  is  covered  with  woods.  The  city 
occupies  its  position  by  the  side  of  the  river,  which  ex- 
tends forty  miles  from  the  city  to  the  island  of  Puna, 
which  is  situated  at  its  entrance  ;  at  the  north,  it  unites 
a  branch  of  the  Amazon,  by  the  cities  of  Cuenca  and 
Quito.  On  the  east  side  of  the  river  the  land  is  level, 
and  covered  with  wood  as  far  as  the  Cordilleras.  The 
several  branches  of  the  river,  above  the  city,  are  navi- 
gable only  by  large  canoes  and -balsas  which  bring  down 
these  branches  the  produce  of  the  interior.  The  city 
probably  contained  6,000  inhabitants  ;  it  did  not  exceed 
this  number  at  that  lime.  From  the  city,  at  a  distance 
of  12  leagues,  your  eye  is  met  by  the  majestic  view  of 
Mount  Chimborazo,  which  is  the  highest  of  all  the  An- 
des, and  rises  21,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

As  soon  as  the  expedition  arrived  in  Arica,  the  army 
was  landed  without  opposition,  and  immediately  com- 
menced their  march  for  the  cities  of  Cuzco  and  La  Paz, 
which  are  the  two  principal  cities  in  Upper  Peru. 

The  two  belligerent  armies  soon  came  within  sight  of 
each  other.  At  first  the  royal  army  retreated,  inland, 
in  two  divisions.  This  compelled  the  Colombians  to 
separate  their  force  into  two  divisions,  pursuing  them 
with  full  confidence  of  conquering.  The  royalists  con- 
tinued their  retreat  until  they  succeeded  in  drawing  the 
Colombian  divisions  at  such  a  distance  from  each  other 
as  totally  to  prevent  the  junction  of  their  forces,  when 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  177 

attacked  by  them.  They  succeeded  in  their  plans,  at- 
tacked the  divisions  of  the  enemy  singly  and  completely 
gained  a  victory  over  them. 

The  survivors  of  the  defeated  army  were  driven  fu- 
riously back  into  Arica,  and  precipitately  into  the  ships 
which  sailed  for  Callao  with  a  few  hundreds  of  the  re- 
maining army,  to  tell  the  sad  tale  of  their  defeat.  Be- 
side these,  there  were  300  horsemen,  under  the  com- 
mand of  General  Miller,  that  escaped.  The  loss  was 
estimated  at  between  4  and  5  thousand  men.  The 
failure  of  this  army  gave  the  royalists,  as  the  fiuits  of 
their  victory,  the  possession  of  Lower  Peru,  as  far  as 
Lima,  which  they  took  ;  and  they  obliged  the  citizens 
to  ransom  it,  by  paying  $600,000. 

On  our  arrival  at  Callao,  being  displeased  with  the 
customs  and  proceedings  of  the  Colombian  troop-ship,  I 
left  as  the  time  for  which  I  agreed  had  expired. 

I  then  shipped  on  board  of  the  Perseverance,  an  En- 
glish schooner,  commanded  and  owned  by  captain  Mos- 
by.  In  her  I  sailed  for  Panama,  at  which  place  we  ar- 
rived, and  took  in  part  of  her  cargo  of  Havana  leaf-to- 
bacco and  other  goods,  which  were  intended  to  be  smug- 
gled on  the  coast.  We-  sailed  for  Peru,  and  in  a  few 
weeks  arrived  at  the  port  of  the  city  of  Truxillo,  which 
is  denominated  Guanchaco.  We  arrived  late  in  the  af- 
ternoon, and  as  our  captain  had  business  of  great  im- 
portance to  transact,  he  immediately  went  on  shore  in 
one  of  the  landing  boats. 

There  were  several  vessels  then  lying  in  port,  among 
which  was  the  brig  Nancy,  a  Peruvian  brig-of-war,  which 
had  arrived  there  from  Callao,  with  the  Peruvian  Con- 
gress on  board,  that  had  been  under  the  necessity  of 
leaving  the  capital,  in  consequence  of  the  near  approach 
of  the  royal  army.  Having  made  the  vessel  safe,  all 
hands  were  sent  to  supper,  while  the  mate  kept  the 
lookout  on  deck;  the  evening  was  very  dark  ;  no 
moving  object  could  be  distinguished  or  heard  around 
us,  but  the  rolling  waves,  the  constant  motion  of  the 
vessel  and  the  roaring  of  the  surf,  which  was  breaking 
along  the  shore  ;  when  all  at  once,  we  were  all  alarmed 
by  the  mate's  hailing  a  boat,  which  was  close  at  the 
23 


178  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

vessel's  side.  The  hailing  of  the  mate  was  succeeded 
by  the  striking  of  a  boat  against  the  side  of  the  vessel, 
and  the  noise  of  jumping  on  the  deck,  which  indicated 
that  the  vessel  was  boarded  for  some  unlawful  purpose. 
In  a  moment  after,  several  muskets  were  pointed  and 
fired  down  the  forecastle.  The  shot  we  fortunately 
avoided  by  retreating  into  the  vessel's  side.  The  pi- 
rates now  commanded  us,  with  horrible  imprecations,  in 
the  Spanish  language,  to  come  up  instantly  or  they 
would  take  our  lives.  We  immediately  obeyed  the 
mandate  and  went  on  deck;  and  immediately  ascertain- 
ed that  we  had  been  boarded  by  40  men,  of  all  colors. 
They  were  part  of  the  Peruvian  crew  of  brig  Nancy, 
which  laid  at  no  great  distance  from  us. 

It  afterwards  appeared  that  the  crew  had  taken  the 
vessel  from  the  officers,  and  part  of  them,  who  knew  our 
vessel  to  be  a  fast  sailer,  conceived  the  idea  of  taking 
her  to  the  island  of  Chiloe,  to  obtain  a  Spanish  commis- 
sion and  fit  her  out  as  a  Spanish  privateer,  and  thus 
make  their  fortunes  by  taking  prizes  along  the  coast. 

As  soon  as  we  had  ascended  the  deck,  we  were  put 
under  the  care  of  a  strong  guard,  while  the  rest  of  the 
ruffians  were  earnestly  engaged  in  pillaging  the  vessel  of 
every  thing  that  they  could  conveniently  carry  off. 
Several  of  them  went  down  into  the  cabin,  broke  open 
several  boxes  of  silk  stockings  and  of  other  valuable  ar- 
ticles. They  took  the  clothes  of  the  captain,  super- 
cargo and  mate,  and  lady  Mosby's  gold  watch  ;  these 
they  divided  among  them.  Lady  Mosby  was  shame- 
fully and  indecently  treated  by  the  ruffians,  who  un- 
dressed before  her  and  dressed  in  her  husband's  best 
clothes  ;  and  not  satisfied  with  this,  a  colored  fellow  at- 
tempted to  dishonor  her  virtue.  This  gross  insult  she 
indignantly  resented,  and  declared  he  could  accomplish 
his  base  purpose  only  by  depriving  her  of  existence. 

The  pirates  having  divided  their  booty,  got  into  their 
boat  and  returned  to  their  vessel,  excepting  14  of  them, 
who  kept  possession  [of  our  vessel,  go^  her  under 
way  and  steered  her  out  of  port.  Having  got  at  a  con- 
siderable distance  from  the  harbor,  they  hoisted  out  a 
small  boat,  about  ten  feet  long,  and  in  her  they  put  sev- 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  179 

en  of  us,  including  the  captain's  lady  and  thrust  us  from 
the  vessel,  to  the  rnercy  of  the  waves,  without  anything 
to  row  with  to  a  place  of  safety. 

We  were  now  in  a  perilous  situation,  placed  as  we 
were  in  a  very  small  boat,  in  which  we  could  scarcely 
move  for  fear  of  upsetting  her,  at  a  distance  of  4  or  5 
miles  from  any  vessel,  on  a  heavy,  rolling' sea  ;  en- 
veloped in  the  midst  of  a  dark,  gloomy,  foggy  night,  and 
which  relused  us  even  the  least  glimmering  of  a  star  to 
guide  us  to  a  place  of  safety.  Being  thus  deplorably 
situated  we  tore  up  the  few  bottom  boards,  belonging 
to  the  boat,  and  used  them  as  paddles  to  propel  the  boat 
iato  the  harbor.  At  sunrise,  after  having  toiled  inces- 
santly and  passed  a  very  unpleasant  night,  we  arrived 
along  side  of  an  English  vessel,  which  was  lying  there  at 
anchor.  By  these  pirates  I  lost  200  dollars  and  my 
clothes.  The  brig  Nancy  put  to  sea  also,  and  was  af- 
terwards taken  by  the  Congress,  a  Peruvian  brig-of-war. 

Captain  Mosby,  on  his  arrival  on  board  the  English 
vessel  in  which  we  were,  in  search  of  his  wife,  appear- 
ed to  be  highly  excited  in  consequence  of  the  loss  of  his 
vessel,  and  the  abuse  which  his  lady  had  received  at 
the  hands  of  the  ruffians. 

It  was  the  intention  of  the  pirates  to  put  us  to 
death,  but  by  the  interposition  of  our  second  mate,  who 
was  a  Swede,  and  who  for  the  preservation  of  his  life, 
consented  to  navigate  the  vessel,  we  were  spared. 

After  this  I  took  a  passage  to  Guayaquil,  to  obtain  a 
vessel  for  the  weather  coast,  but  did  not  succeed  on  my 
first  arrival  there,  in  consequence  of  which  1  had  the 
privilege  granted  me  from  the  captain  of  making  the 
vessel  my  home,  until  I  could  succeed  in  obtaining  a 
voyage. 

Two  or  three  weeks  had  elapsed,  since  the  capture  of 
our  vessel  by  the  pirates,  and  no  tidings  was  had 
of  her  from  any  quarter,  until  one  day,  quite  unex- 
pected, the  captain  of  the  vessel  brought  the  news  on 
board,  of  the  capture  of  the  pirates,  by  a  guard  of  sol- 
diers, from  Guayaquil,  headed  by  the  captain  of  the  port. 
This  news  was  soon  verified  by  the  arrival  of  the  schooner 
Perseverance  into  the  port.  She  was  found  off  Dead 


180  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

Men's  Island,  a  short  distance  from  the  mouth  of  Guay- 
aquil river. 

According  to  the  relation  of  the  second  mate,  the  pi- 
rates, after  putting  the  vessel  to  sea,  steered  for  Chiloe, 
but  on  examination  of  the  quantity  of  water  on  board, 
ascertained  that  it  was  insufficient  to  carry  the  vessel 
into  that  port. 

This  disappointment  gave  rise  to  a  variety  of  opinions 
as  to  the  best  mode  of  operation  for  their  future  safety  ; 
and  knowing  that  they  could  not  succeed  in  obtaining 
water  in  any  port  on  the  coast,  without  being  detected, 
they  came  to  the  conclusion,  by  the  advice  of  the  second 
male,  to  take  the  vessel  near  the  mouth  of  Guayaquil 
river,  take  the  most  valuable  articles  into  the  boat,  and 
scuttle  the  vessel.  Having  put  this  plan  into  operation, 
and  gained  the  desired  spot,  they  scuttled  the  vessel,  and 
proceeded  in  the  boat  up  Guayaquil  river,  and  landed  in 
the  thicket  at  a  short  distance  below  the  fort.  The  sec- 
ond mate  by  these  means  obtained  an  opportunity  to  stray 
away  from  the  pirates  in  the  midst  of  the  thicket,  and 
in  a  short  time  arrived  in  the  city,  and  gave  information 
to  the  captain  of  the  port,  by  whose  orders  they  were 
taken  and  brought  prisoners  into  the  city ;  and  after  a 
short  trial  they  were  condemned  to  be  shot  on  board  of 
the  vessel,  and  hung  to  her  yard  arm?,  which  sentence 
was  speedily  carried  into  effect. 

After  the  arrival  of  Capt.  Mo?by  from  Lima,  and  the 
execution  of  the  pirates,  I  again  shipped  on  board  the 
vessel,  which  had  been  brought  in  safely,  and  sailed 
in  her  for  Callao. 

After  our  arrival  at  Callao,  having  remained  there 
several  weeks,  we  took  in  more  cargo  for  the  weather 
coast,  and  sailed  on  a  smuggling  voyage,  which  we 
continued  six  months,  during  which  time  we  were  expos- 
ed to  a  multiplicity  of  dangers,  by  night  and  day,  which 
arose  from  the  nature  of  the  voyage.  On  our  arrival  at 
Callao  from  the  weather  coast,  we  found  the  castles  in 
possession  of  the  Spaniards,  who  in  consequence  of  the 
late  victories  had  got  possession  of  the  coast  as  far  as 
Lima,  and  who,  at  the  time  of  our  departure,  were  near 
Lima  with  an  army  3,000  strong.  After  discharging 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  181 

our  cargo  the  crew  left  the  vessel,  and  I,  suffering  my- 
self to  be  over-ruled  by  them,  left  her  also,  to  my  sor- 
row. 

I  went  on  shore  in  a  strange  place,  and  among  stran- 
gers, from  whence  I  was  under  the  necessity  of  going  to 
the  city  of  Lima  to  receive  my  wages.  I  left  that  place 
for  Callao  on  the  following  day,  after  having  taken  a  view 
of  the  city.  The  capture  of  Lima  and  Callao  by  the 
Spaniards,  was  succeeded  by  a  depression  of  business,  in 
consequence  of  which  it  was  difficult  to  obtain  a  ship,  and 
I  was  under  the  necessity  of  residing  on  shore,  until  I 
was  favored  with  an  opportunity  of  shipping.  VN  hile  on 
shore  the  Peruvian  squadron  arrived  in  I  he  bay,  and 
communication  with  foreign  ships  was  cyjl^iff. 

The  Spanish  general,  Rodril,  anticipating  their  design, 
made  suitable  preparation  for  their  reception,  by  filling 
the  vessels  with  soldiers  every  night,  to  prevent  their 
being  boarded  by  the  enemy,  whose  intention  was  to 
take  them  or  set  them  on  fire. 

One  night  the  enemy's  boats  to  the  number  of  twenty 
appeared  in  sight  of  the  Spanish  guard-boats.  The 
alaim  was  immediately  given,  and  many  of  the  citizens 
of  Callao  assembled  on  the  sea  border  to  witness  the 
engagement  which  was  expected  soon  to  commence. — 
Just  at  this  time,  when  all  was  in  a  bustle,  the  captain 
of  the  port,  with  a  strong  guard  of  soldiers,  commenced 
pressing  all  the  native  stragglers  and  foreign  sailors  that 
he  could  find  in  the  town,  arid  I  unfortunately  was  taken 
among  the  rest,  and  conveyed  to  the  brig  of  war  Pasu- 
alla,  to  work  her  great  guns  during  the  action.  This  was 
harsh  treatment,  received  at  the  hands  of  those  who,  ac- 
cording to  the  law  of  nations,  had  no  right  to  force  us 
into  their  service  to  fight  the  battles  of  their  country  ; 
but  it  was  done  in  the  middle  of  the  night,  in  the  midst 
of  confusion,  and  no  notice  was  taken  of  it. 

We  had  not  been  on  board  many  minutes,  before  the 
shipping  commenced  firing  on  the  castles,  in  order  that 
their  armed  boats  and  gun-boats  might  escape  notice, 
and  thus  afford  them  an  opportunity  to  shun  the  fire  of 
the  casiles  and  get  in  among  the  shipping,  where  they 
would  be  protected  by  the  ships;  but  in  this  they  were 


182  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

deceived.  General  Rodril  was  too  old  a  warrior  to  be 
deceived  in  this  manner.  Instead  of  returning  the  ships' 
fire,  he  took  no  notice  of  it,  but  reserved  his  fire  for  the 
boats,  on  whom  he  opened  a  dreadful  fire,  but  in  conse- 
quence of  the  distance  and  the  dimness  of  the  night,  the 
firing  did  not  take  effect,  and  the  enemy's  boats  finally 
succeeded  in  gaining  the  shelter  of  the  shipping.  The 
battle  was  now  commenced  with  mighty  fury  by  the  gun 
boats  of  both  parties,  and  long  and  loud  did  the  fierce 
cannon  roar,  while  repeated  volleys  of  musketry  alter- 
nately succeeded  each  other.  Finally  the  enemy  suc- 
ceeded in  driving  the  Spanish  gun-boats  from  their  posi- 
tion farther  in  toward  the  shore,  and  in  consequence  of 
this  movement,  our  vessel,  being  the  very  one  they  most 
desired  to  cut  to  pieces,  was  furiously  attacked  by  four 
gun- boats  and  several  other  boats  ;  but  after  a  long  and 
obstinate  conflict,  they  were  repulsed.  After  three  hours 
of  hard  fighting  the  enemy  retreated  with  great  loss  of 
life,  and  without  a  single  prize. 

The  bloody  conflict  being  over,  and  daylight  having 
appeared,  we  were  liberated  from  the  vessel,  without 
even  a  "  thank  you,"  for  having  exposed  our  lives  for 
their  proteclion. 

This  repulse  gave  a  sudden  check  to  the  operations  of 
the  Peruvian  squadron  in  Callao,  and  they  sailed  for  the 
lee  coast  a  few  days  after  the  battle. 

The  Spaniards  now  commenced  fitting  out  several 
vessels  of  war,  amon«  which  was  a  brig  denominated  the 
Constant,  which  was  fitted  out  as  a  privateer,  and  a  great 
bounty  offered  to  obtain  a  crew  for  her.  She  was  con- 
sidered by  the  foreign  sailors  to  be  a  suitable  vessel  to 
ship  in,  as  in  all  probability  she  would  take  a  great  many 
prizes,  which  would  result  in  the  prosperity  of  the  crew. 
A  number  of  English  sailors  immediately  entered  on 
board  of  her  for  six  months,  and  among  them  were  sev- 
eral of  my  ship-mates,  who  over-ruled  my  judgment,  an! 
enticed  me  to  enter  also. 

The  vessel  being  ready  we  received  our  bounty,  and 
sailed  for  the  weather  coast  on  a  cruise,  in  which  we 
spent  five  months,  during  which  time  we  took  three  rich 
prizes,  which  arrived  safely  at  Callao,  and  which  would 


OP    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  183 

have  rewarded  each  man  with  $3,000,  had  we  received 
our  just  dues.  After  this  we  returned  to  Callao  and  nar- 
rowly escaped  being  taken,  as  we  run  into  the  harbor  by 
a  Peruvian  frigate  which  had  returned  during  our  ab- 
sence. Several  shots  were  exchanged  between  us  and 
the  frigate,  but  without  effect. 

Admiral  Guise  was  so  exasperated  at  our  escape  that 
he  followed  us  under  the  batteries  and  fired  several  broad- 
sides at  the  castles  and  shipping. 

After  this  we  remained  in  Callao  refitting  and  await- 
ing the  arrival  of  the  Spanish  64  and  a  large  sloop-of- 
war  brig  which  had  arrived  in  Chiloe  from  Spain  and 
was  daily  expected  to  arrive  at  Callao.  After  the  lapse 
of  a  week  the  vessels  arrived.  A  week  subsequent  to 
the  arrival  of  these  vessels  Admiral  Guise, who  had  been 
under  the  necessity  of  leaving  the  harbor,  in  consequence 
of  fear  of  being  attacked  by  them,  now  arrived  off  St. 
Lorenzo,  was  reinforced  by  five  smaller  vessels,  with  an 
intention  of  attacking  the  Spanish  squadron  which  was 
then  only  waiting  for  the  64  to  refit  and  recruit  her  crew 
after  her  long  passage  from  Spain. 

The  squadron  nt  length  being  ready,  got  under 
way  one  calm  and  foiriry  niii;ht,  with  a  special  design 
to  bring  the  enemy  to  an  action  within  the  bay  of  Callao, 
which  if  it  had  been  accomplished,  must  have  resulted 
in  the  complete  capture  of  the  Peruvian  squadron.  But 
their  squadron  being  to  an  anchor  with  all  their  sails  up, 
seemingly  in  readiness  to  escape,  and  the  fog  clearing 
away  at  sunrise,  the  Spanish  squadron  was  exposed  to 
view  of  the  enemy,  who  finding  themselves  upon  the 
eve  of  being  attacked  in  the  bay,  immediately  slipped 
their  cables  and  put  to  sea,  but  were  closely  pursued  by 
the  Spaniards  arrayed  in  line  of  battle.  VVe  were  now 
without  the  bay,  the  enemy  still  continued  in  line  of  bat- 
tle, half  a  milo  distant  on  our  lee  bow,  and  not  a  gun 
had  as  yet  been  fired  by  either  party.  The  fog  which 
by  its  clearing  away  in  the  bay  had  been  the  means  of 
the  enemy's  escape  was  so  dense  out  of  the  bay  that  it 
was  impossible  to  discern  a  vessel  at  a  distance  of  100 
yards.  The  enemy  thinking  to  surprise  us,  took  the  ad- 
vantage of  the  density  of  the  fog  and  put  about,  expec- 


184  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

ting  by  this  means  to  gain  some  advantage  over  our  small 
vessels,  but  in  this  they  were  disappointed, being  discov- 
ered in  time, their  designs  were  prevented.  Several  tre- 
mendous broadsides  were  exchanged  in  a  few  minutes  as 
they  passed  within  hail  under  our  lee.  Our  squadron 
soon  went  about  in  pursuit  of  the  enemy  which  was 
then  standing  in  shore.  As  soon  as  we  went  about  they 
bore  away.  In  about  an  hour  after  this  the  sun  shone 
forth  in  its  full  vigor  which  completely  dissipated  the  fog, 
by  which  for  some  time  the  enemy  had  been  hid  from  our 
view.  They  were  now  seen  lying  to,  about  a  mile  to 
the  leeward  of  us.  We  immediately  bore  away  for  them, 
who  waited  for  us  until  we  came  within  grape  shot  of 
each  other.  The  battle  now  commenced  by  the  two 
larger  slrps  in  great  fury.  In  a  short  time  the  enemy's 
line  was  broken,  after  which  they  bore  away  with  the 
loss  of  the  frigate's  mizzer.-mast.  They  were  closely 
pursued  by  us  the  whole  of  the  day,  during  which  a  con- 
tinual firing  was  kept  upon  both  sides.  The  frigate  suf- 
fered considerable  from  our  fire,  having  been  several 
times  raked  by  our  brig, which  occasionally  came  up  near 
to  her  and  discharged  the  long  24  pounder  into  her  stern, 
which  carried  destruction  and  confusion  before  it.  Hav- 
ing failed  to  bring  the  enemy  to  a  decisive  action,  we 
returned  to  Callao  to  repair  damages.  Here  I  left  the 
brig,  my  time  having  expired.  I  resided  on  shore  sever- 
al weeks  not  being  able  to  obtain  a  ship. 

During  my  residence  on  shore  two  battles  were  fought 
by  the  Spaniards  and  Patriots,  as  they  were  called,  near 
the  walls  and  in  the  city  of  Lima,  in  both  of  which  the 
latter  were  severely  defeated  by  half  their  number.  The 
second  of  these  battles,  which  was  conducted  by  Gener- 
al Rodril,  in  person,  I  had  the  opportunity  of  witnessing 
from  the  first  onset  to  the  last  of  the  disastrous  retreat  of 
the  defeated,  who  were  closely  pursued  through  the 
streets  of  Lima  and  slaughtered  without  mercy.  This 
battle  commenced  near  the  halfway  house  from  Lima  to 
Callao.  Opposite  to  this  house  is  a  large  hill  which  bears 
a  small  observatory  on  its  summit.  At  the  base  of  this 
hill  the  Spanish  army  which  had  retreated  from  Lima, 
were  concealed  awaiting  the  approach  of  the  enemy,  who 


Or    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  185 

were  marching  triumphantly  through  the  city  of  Lima 
toward  Callao.  Near  this  hill  the  progress  of  the  ene- 
my was  arrested  by  the  first  onset  of  the*Spanish  troops. 
Both  parties  of  foot  were  fully  engaged  when  General 
Rodril  mounted  the  half-way  house  with  a  spy  glass  in 
his  hand,  from  which  he  had  a  commanding  view  of  the 
field  of  battle.  Having  anticipated  from  the  advantageous 
position  of  his  troops  the  speedy  retreat  of  the  enemy, 
he  immediately  detached  two  companies  of  hussars  to 
cut  off  their  retreat  to  the  nearest  gate  of  the  city.  Soon 
after  this  movement,  the  enemy's  body  gave  way  before 
a  heavy  discharge  of  the  artillery,  and  at  the  same  time 
their  wings  were  turned,  and  before  they  could  recover, 
a  general  charge  of  the  infantry  completely  routed  the 
whole  army,  which  being  now  in  full  retreat,  an  attempt 
was  made  by  the  cavalry  to  cover  the  retreat  of  the  in- 
fantry into  the  Chorillos  gate  of  the  city,  but  being  una- 
ble to  resist  the  impetuosity  of  the  Spanish  horsemen 
and  the  discharge  of  the  flying  artillery  they  gave  way 
and  mixed  in  with  the  infantry  in  their  retreat.  A  gen- 
eral slaughter  now  ensued  by  which  over  600  lifeless  bo- 
dies were  scattered  across  the  pampas  which  surrounded 
Lima.  The  survivers  were  pursued  to  the  neighboring 
mountains  with  slaughter  and  desolation  in  their  track. 

The  trophies  of  the  battle  were  brought  into  the  cas- 
tles of  Callao,  and  consisted  of  1000  stand  of  arms,  100 
prisoners  and  300  horses. 

A  few  days  subsequent  to  the  battle  I  shipped  on  board 
of  the  brig  Robert  of  London,  and  sailed  in  her  to  the 
Chorillos,  at  which  port  we  stopped  during  the  contin- 
uation of  the  siege  of  Callao,  which  was  17  months, 
and  after  the  capitulation  of  the  besieged  castles  we  re- 
turned to  Callao. 

The  besieged  fortifications  of  Callao  were  the  last  of 
the  Spanish  possessions  in  Peru  that  were  conquered  by 
the  Patriots.  The  extraordinary  obstinacy  and  intrepid- 
ity with  which  the  besieged  General  Rodril,  defended 
the  fortifications  to  the  last  moment,  together  with  his 
honorable  capitulation,  has  no  parallel  in  the  history  of 
warfare.  From  this  conflict  the  republics  of  South 
America  have  arisen.  Rodril  was  highly  worthy  of  the 
24 


186  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

trust  conferred  on  him,  and  the  honor  which  his  coun- 
try bestowed  upon  him  at  his  return  to  his  native  land. 
He  was  besieged  by  6,000  men  who  were  intrenched 
within  hail  of  the  castles  and  who  were  provided  with 
several  strong  batteries  erected  at  Villa  Vista.  Beside 
this  he  was  besieged  by  ten  ships  of  war.  To  oppose 
this  force  he  had  1,500  men,  and  yet  his  enemies  with 
all  the  odds  and  advantage  which  they  possessed  were 
unable  to  subdue  him  by  force  of  arms.  So  great  were 
the  distresses  and  sufferings  of  the  besieged,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  deficiency  of  food  and  water,  that  they 
were  compelled  to  subsist  on  their  horses  as  long  as  they 
lasted,  and  toward  the  latter  part  of  it  they  drank  spirits 
to  quench  their  burning  thirst.  Hundreds  of  them  paid 
the  last  debt  of  nature  and  their  bodies  wers  consigned 
by  their  comrades  to  the  gloomy  vaults  of  the  dead.  It 
was  frequently  the  case  that  the  soldiers  took  their  pil- 
lows and  walked  into  the  silent  vault  and  there  laid  down 
to  sleep  the  sleep  of  death.  1  saw  many  lying  in  the 
vaults  in  this  position  after  the  capitulation  of  the  castles. 
Eleven  hundred  out  of  the  1,500  which  were  first  be- 
sieged were  consigned  to  their  mother  dust,  during  the 
continuance  of  the  siege. 

Lima  is  an  extensive  city,  built  upon  a  plain  at  the 
foot  of  a  mountain  and  it  is  situated  seven  miles  from 
the  port  of  Callao.  It  exhibits  a  beautiful  prospect  to 
those  on  ship-board  in  the  harbor.  Its  many  towering 
steeples  from  which  the  bright  rays  of  the  sun  are  re- 
flected, adds  grandeur  to  the  beauty  of  the  scene.  The 
streets  of  this  city  are  wide  and  long  and  the  houses  in 
general  are  large  and  airy.  There  is  a  small  river  run- 
ning through  one  side  of  the  city,  which  flows  from  moun- 
tains covered  with  snow  and  ice,  by  the  melting  of  which 
it  is  continually  fed.  From  this  river  there  are  three 
small  streams, which  are  connected  through  the  centre  of 
three  different  streets.  Its  population  previous  to  the 
wars  of  their  revolution  was  estimated  at  70,000,  but  in 
1824  it  was  reduced  to  30,000. 

Having  now  been  five  years  from  my  native  land,  and 
having  a  desire  to  return,  I  shipped  on  board  of  the  brig 
Junius,  bound  to  Liverpool. 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  187 

We  sailed  from  Callao  for  Arica  where  we  took  in 
twelve  tons  of  silver  and  then  sailed  for  Liverpool,  at 
which  place  we  arrived  in  safety  after  a  narrow  escape 
of  being  lost  at  sea.  The  brig  broached  to  while  run- 
ning under  close-reefed  top-sails,  and  came  near  going 
down  stern  foremost. 

Four  days  after  my  arrival  in  Liverpool  I  was  taken 
down  with  a  severe  fever  by  which  1  came  near  the 
grave.  While  in  the  hight  of  my  fever,  I  was  robbed  of 
£70,  all  that  remained  of  my  five  years  and  a  half  labor. 
The  money  was  deposited  by  my  physician  with  my  land- 
lord,^! religious  old  man  and  he  deposited  it  in  a  bureau  draw 
in  the  room  in  which  I  laid.  The  robbery  was  commit- 
ted by  a  young  man  who  came  home  in  the  vessel  with  me, 
to  whose  necessity  I  had  bountifully  administered  since  we 
had  been  on  shore,  he  being  penniless  and  destitute.  He 
decoyed  my  landlord's  eldest  son  as  his  accomplice  in  the 
crime.  The  rogue  was  soon  discovered  by  the  lady  of 
the  house  who  had  free  access  to  my  money  to  provide 
such  things  for  me  as  the  physician  directed.  She  im- 
mediately sent  an  officer  in  pursuit,  who  in  the  course 
of  two  hours  succeeded  in  apprehending  my  ship-mate, 
who  gave  information  of  his  accomplice.  He  was  pur- 
sued but  without  success,  having  made  his  escape  to 
London,  and  there  being  no  measures  taken  for  his  pur- 
suit he  escaped  the  hand  of  justice.  Out  of  the  $350 
which  was  taken  $50  was  recovered  by  the  detection  of 
my  ship-mate  which  I  did  not  receive  until  subsequent 
to  his  trial  and  conviction,  and  with  half  of  this  sum  I 
rewarded  the  physician  for  his  attendance  on  me. 

On  my  recovery,  in  the  hight  of  my  distress,  I  wrote 
to  my  landlady  in  London,  to  whom  previous  to  my 
leaving  England  I  had  given  power  to  draw  my  voyage, 
which  was  pending  in  the  co^jrt  of  chancery,  in  hopes 
of  receiving  a  satisfactory  answer  relative  to  the  wages 
of  a  former  voyage.  But  instead  of  answering  me  to 
the  purpose,  she  advised  me  not  to  come  home  as  the 
times  were  hard,  and  added  that  they  all  wished  to  see 
me  very  much.  There  was  something  peculiar  in  this 
answer  which  led  me  to  suspect  that  she  had  received  the 
remains  of  my  voyage  and  appropriated  it  to  her  own  use. 


188  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

I  immediately  proceeded  to  London  and  on  my  arrival 
at  the  old  lady's  house  my  suspicion  was  fully  confirmed 
by  the  acknowledgement  which  she  made  to  me  of  the 
payment  of  $450  which  was  the  balance  she  had  re- 
ceived of  my  voyage.  What  her  intentions  were  in  wri- 
ting to  me  thus  1  leave  the  reader  to  judge. 

On  my  arrival  in  England  1  flattered  myself  with  the 
idea  of  staying  in  my  native  land,  at  least  one  year,  and 
apply  myself  to  the  improvement  of  my  mind,  but  in- 
stead of  this  my  hopes  and  designs  were  frustrated,  b/ 
being  unfortunately  deprived  of  my  earnings  by  dishon- 
est and  wicked  men,  in  consequence  of  which  I  was  re- 
luctantly hurried,  through  necessity,  once  more  on  a 
whaling  voyage. 

Being  under  the  necessity  of  continuing  my  sea-faring 
life,  which  I  ever  detested,  I  shipped  on  board  of  the 
Hibernia,  bound  on  a  whaling  voyage  on  the  coast  of 
Japan. 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  189 


CHAPTER  XV. 


Leaves  London  ;  arrival  at  New  Zealand,  and  description  of  the 
natives ;  Cannibalism  of  the  New  Zealanders  ;  cruises  off  the 
Navigator  isles;  description  of  the  natives  ;  description  of  the 
Duke  of  Clarence  and  York's  isles  ;  two  races  of  the  natives  ; 
trading  with  the  natives  ;  cruises  off  the  King's  Mill  Group;  crui. 
ses  off  Mathew's  isle  ;  warlike  and  hideous  appearance  of  the 
natives  ;  design  to  take  the  ship  ;  crui.se  off  the  New  Hebrides  ; 
appearance  of  Santa  Cruz  ;  lands  on  a  volcanic  isle  ;  cruises  off 
Solomon's  He  ;  dangerous  attack  on  a  canoe  ;  loss  of  life  ;  ten 
war  canoes  come  off  to  attack  the  ship ;  raises  a  school  of  whale?; 
the  Alfred's  boats  and  oars  are  attacked  by  two  fleets  of  canoes ; 
loss  of  her  captain  and  second  mate  ;  the  natives  repulsed  by  our 
boats  and  two  boats  stove ;  the  author  stands  on  the  whale's 
head  ;  the  whale  takes  the  author's  boat  off  while  the  crew  are 
in  the  water  hanging  on  to  her  ;  cruises  off  Isabel  isle  ;  attempt 
of  the  natives  to  take  the  John  Bull  :  discovery  of  a  deep  bay; 
the  ship  is  attacked  by  two  or  three  thousand  natives  ;  defence 
of  the  ship  and  slaughter  of  the  natives  ;  arrival  at  Guana  isle  ; 
description  of  the  natives  and  manner  of  living;  sails  by  the 
Ladrone  isles;  Volcano;  arrives  at  Japan;  cruises  4along  the 
coast ;  visited  by  Japanese  fishing  boats  ,  boarded  byvJapanese 
junks  ;  departure  from  the  Japan  seas  ;  a  Lascar  escapes  from 
the  natives  and  gains  the  ship  ;  the  loss  of  his  vessel  and  his 
captivity  ;  the  crew  eaten  by  the  natives  ,•  mode  of  roasting  their 
victims  ;  arrives  at  the  New  Hebrides  ;  the  natives  sieze  two  of 
the  ship's  crew ;  departure  of  the  ship  and  the  loss  of  two  men  ; 
colored  men  with  yellow  hair  ;  discovery  of  the  island  where  the 
French  ship  L'Empereur  was  wrecked ;  arrival  at  the  isle  of 
Rotemah  ;  description  of  the  natives  ;  three  men  desert  the  ship 
and  remain  on  the  island  ;  arrival  at  New  Zealand  ;  war  of  two 
powerful  tribes  ;  war  dances  and  temporary  peace  ;  invasion  and 
landing  o(  the  Whorowrorians  with  their  war  canoes  ;  prepara- 
tions for  defence  by  the  Kivakivians  ;  battle  of  Crorica  ;  landing 
of  the  missionaries  in  the  midst  of  the  battle  ;  their  exposure, 


190  LIFE    AND 

interposition,  and  fearless  resolution  to  appease  the  natives  ; 
defeat  of  the  Whorowrorians  ;  landing  of  the  author  ;  departure 
of  the  Kivakivians  and  burning  of  their  town  ;  the  Whorowrori- 
ans reinforce  their  tribe;  again  invade  the  Kivakivians  with  100 
war  canoes  carrying  1,500  men  ;  their  war  dances  on  approach- 
ing each  other  ;  the  Whorowrorians  are  dismayed  and  dare  not 
attack  them  ;  interposition  of  the  missionaries  and  sea  captains. 

TWELFTH    VOYAGE. 

The  ship  being  ready,  we  sailed  on  our  passage  round 
the  cape  of  Good  Hope  to  New  Zealand,  where  we  ar- 
rived after  having  enjoyed  a  pleasant  passage.  On  our 
arrival  in  the  harbor  of  Crorica,  the  deck  of  our  ship  was 
crowded  with  natives  of  all  ages  from  the  shore,  who 
came  to  trade  with  us. 

When  1  first  beheld  these  natives,  my  attention  was 
much  attracted  by  their  fierce  and  rude  appearance,  their 
large,  brawny,  rugged  and  naked  forms,  exposed  to  the 
inclemency  of  the  weather,  strangely  contrasted  with 
European  manners.  Shortly  after,  being  totally  unac- 
quainted with  their  customs,  while  on  shore,  1  was  great- 
ly alarmed  by  several  natives,  with  fire-arms  and  war- 
clubs  in  their  hands,  who  came  running  toward  me. 
They  run  vehemently  to  the  very  spot  where  I  stood, 
and  instantly  formed,  two  deep,  and  commenced  a  terrific 
\var-dance,  accompanied  by  the  most  hideous  and  stun- 
ning yells  that  was  ever  heard,  by  any  civilized  being. 
Their  yells  echoed  from  hill  to  hill,  around  the  bay,  and 
were  accompanied  by  throwing  up  their  fire-arms  and 
war-clubs  into  the  air  as  a  demonstration  of  great  joy  at 
the  arrival  and  landing  of  the  Queen  from  Cavacaway 
river.  This  old  Queen,  whom  they  delighted  to  honor, 
was  the  widow  of  a  celebrated  chief,  who  was  by  the 
English  denominated  King  George.  He  had  been 
treacherously  killed  a  few  days  previous  to  our  arrival 
in  Sookyanna,  while  in  the  act  of  making  peace  with  the 
tribe  belonging  to  that  place.  His  death  was  much  re- 
gretted, and  lamented  by  his  numerous  friends  and 
the  tribes  in  the  bay  of  islands  ;  and  particularly  by  the 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  191 

English,  as  he  afforded  them  protection  from  native  vio- 
lence. This  was  owing  to  the  progress  which  civiliza- 
tion had  made  in  his  mind,  during  his  residence  in  the 
city  ofSjdney,  New  South  Wales. 

While  we  were  lying  at  Crorica,  a  circumstance  occur- 
red among  the  natives,  which  goes  to  illustrate  the  fe- 
rocity and  cannibalism  of  the  New  Zealanders.  An  in- 
ferior chief  had  recaptured  a  female  slave,  who  had  run 
away  several  times  ;  and  according  to  the  severity  of 
their  peculiar  laws,  she  was  suspended  by  her  master 
from  a  tree  and  shot  by  him:  And  then,  by  the  custom 
of  the  New  Zealanders,  she  was  roasted  and  prepared 
as  a  delicious  repast  for  the  tribes  to  feast  on.  This  is 
also  done  to  inflict  a  greater  degree  of  punishment  on 
the  victim  than  death,  and  to  convey  terror  to  their  en- 
emies. 

Having  abundantly  supplied  the  ship  with  wood,  wa- 
ter and  potatoes,  and  thirty  hogs,  for  which  we  gave 
some  muskets  and  gunpowder,  we  sailed  toward  Ton- 
gataboo  island,  off  which  we  cruised  three  days  ;  but 
not  meeting  with  any  whales,  we  bore  away  and  sailed 
through  the  midst  of  Tonga  islands,  which  are  very  low 
and  scarcely  to  be  seen  above  the  level  of  the  sea;  from 
the  vessel's  mast-head  at  a  distance  of  10  miles.  We 
were  informed  by  our  captain,  that  the  natives  of  these 
isles  were  in  the  most  barbarous  state  of  cannibalism  ; 
and  therefore  their  shores  were  to  be  approached  only 
on  the  peril  of  being  roasted  and  immediately  eaten. 

Having  passed  by  these  islands,  we  soon  arrived  at  the 
Navigators,  off  which  we  cruised  several  weeks,  with- 
out meeting  with  any  success.  While  cruising  off  these 
inlands  we  were  visited  by  a  number  of  natives,  who 
came  off  in  their  canoes,  with  all  kinds  of  the  choisest 
fruits  to  trade  with  us.  They  were  handsome,  and  pro- 
portioimbly  formed  in  every  respect.  Their  bodies  were 
richly  decorated  with  the  handsomest  tattoo  that  my 
eyes  ever  beheld,  while  their  hair  grew  straight  upwards, 
caused  by  the  continual  practice  of  combing  it  up.  The 
sun  of  civilization  had  just  commenced  its  dawn  among 
them,  and  by  recent  information,  there  is  reason  to  be- 
lieve that  thev  hsiyp  been  much  improved,  both  in  mn» 


192  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

ners  and  morals,  since  that  day.  Missionaries  are  now 
among  them. 

Having  unsuccessfully  cruised  off  these  islands,  we 
proceeded  toward  the  King's  Mill  Group,  and  touched 
at  the  Duke  of  Clarence,  and  the  Duke  of  York's  isl- 
ands, on  our  passsuge,  merely  to  trade  with  the  natives. 
The  first  of  these  islands  was  a  small  sandy  bank,  about 
a  mile  in  circumference,  surrounded  by  coral  reefs.  It 
was  covered  with  cocoa-nut  trees,  and  was  scarcely  above 
the  level  of  the  sea. 

We  were  surprised  when  we  first  beheld  it,  and  were 
at  a  loss  to  know  how  so  many  human  beings  could  ob- 
tain a  subsistence  on  a  mere  sandy  spot,  and  especially 
as  it  appeared  to  be  lonely  in  the  midst  of  the  mighty 
deep.  But  subsequently,  we  became  fully  acquaitned 
with  their  means  of  subsistence,  which  consisted  of  cocoa- 
nuts  and  shell-fish  ;  the  latter  they  obtained  from  the 
coral  reefs. 

As  soon  as  the  ships  approached  the  island  sufficient- 
ly near,  a  number  of  large  canoes,  filled  with  natives, 
came  'close  to  her  and  exhibited  a  white  cloth  as  a  sig- 
nal of  peace,  and  desired  to  trade  with  us.  We  ex- 
hibited a  similar  signal,  and  made  signs  of  friendship  to 
them.  They  immediately  came  along  side  and  on  board 
of  the  ship.  Having  gained  admittance  to  the  ship, 
they  according  to  their  custom, — to  confirm  the  friend- 
ship which  had  been  manifested  by  signs — insisted  on 
touching  noses  with  each  member  of  the  crew.  To 
confirm  our  sincerity,  gratify  their  desires,  and  appease 
their  fears,  we  readily  agreed  to  this,  and  accordingly 
went  through  the  ceremony  of  touching  noses  with  the 
natives. 

The  chief  article  of  trade  which  we  possessed  was 
iron-hoops,  cut  in  six-inch  pieces,  for  each  of  which,  we 
generally  obtained  in  many  of  the  islands  a  dozen  of  co- 
coa-nuts or  any  other  kinds  of  nuts  or  fruit. 

When  we  first  beheld  these  natives,  we  were  surprised 
to  discover  two  races  of  men  among  them.  The 
Malay  or  Asiatic  race,  which  inhabit  all  the  Asiatic 
isles,  and  another  race  of  men  which  much  resemble  the 
Spaniards.  Their  complexion  was  nearly  while  ;  their 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  193 

hair  which  was  light  and  long,  was  inclined  to  curl. 
They  were  much  larger  in  stature  than  the  Malay  race, 
and  wore  long  beards,  while  the  others  exhibited  no 
signs  of  this  outward  distinction  of  man. 

There  is  no  doubt  but  this  race  of  white  men  had 
their  origin  in  these  islands  from  ship-wrecked  Europe- 
ans. And  what  goes  to  confirm  this  supposition,  is  the 
fact  that  this  mixed  race  is  totally  confined  to  these 
islands  ;  for  among  all  the  ranges  of  the  Asiatic  islands 
and  the  many  thousands  of  natives  seen,  we  have  not 
been  able  to  trace  the  least  resemblance  to  this  class. 

Having  finished  our  trading  at  these  islands  we  pro- 
ceeded on  our  passage,  and  in  a  few  days  arrived  at 
Kings'  Mill  Group,  off  which  we  cruised  several  weeks 
and  succeeded  in  obtaining  300  barrels  of  oil. 

After  the  expiration  of  the  season  at  these  islands, 
we  proceeded  to  Matthews  island,  off  which  we  cruised 
several  days.  The  natives  appeared  to  be  frequently 
engaged  in  war  with  each  other,  as  they  exhibited  marks 
of  great  violence  upon  their  naked  bodies,  inflicted  by 
implements  of  war,  which  could  be  none  others  than 
those  with  which  they  were  abundantly  supplied,  and 
which  consisted  of  straight  hard-wood  spears,  with  four 
rows  of  sharks'  teeth  firmly  fixed  in  the  same  shape  as  the 
teeth  of  a  saw. 

One  morning,  the  ship  being  becalmed,  we  were  sur- 
rounded by  3  or  400  canoes,  each  of  which  contained 
five  natives.  A  number  of  them  traded  with  us,  while 
the  others  rowed  round  and  round  the  ship  apparently 
looking  at  us,  as  though  they  would  make  us  their 
prize.  By  their  singular  proceedings  we  anticipated 
that  they  had  a  desi«n  on  the  ship.  To  defeat  them 
we  immediately  exhibited  our  naked  lances  and  spades, 
and  this  seemingly  had  the  desired  effect  in  coun- 
teracting their  designs,  and  shortly  after  they  dispersed 
and  returned  to  the  shore. 

These    natives    exhibited  the  most  hideous  heads  of 

hair  ever  seen  on  human  beings.     It  was  long  and  woolly 

and  grew  upwards  ;  and  apparently,  by  being  constant!/ 

combed  in  a  circular  form,  it  had  become  in   the  shape 

25 


194  LIFE    AND    TRATELS 

of  a  bee-hive  and  was  nearly   as   large  as   a  half  bushel 
measure. 

Having  unsuccessfully  cruised  among  these  islands, 
we  proceeded  to  the  Mulgraves,  Culverts,  Browns,  and 
Rangers,  off  which  we  met  wilh  no  better  success. 

From  this  we  proceeded  to  the  New  Hebrides,  at 
which  we  arrived  and  cruised  off  Santa  Cruz,  which  is 
the  largest,  it  being  15  miles  long.  The  island,  from 
one  end  to  the  other,  is  a  long  mountain,  covered  with 
bushes  and  trees.  It  contains  several  valleys,  which 
widen  as  they  descend  from  the  summit  of  the  ridge. 
These  valleys  are  occupied  by  several  distinct  tribes, 
which  occasionally  are  at  war  with  each  other.  This 
appeared  to  be  the  case  with  two  of  these  tribes,  at  the 
time  of  our  cruising  there.  We  were  eye-witnesses  to 
an  engagement  which  took  place  between  two  fleets  of 
canoes,  close  to  our  ship.  This  happened  immediately 
after  we  had  finished  trading  with  the  natives  of  one  of 
the  valleys,  who  had  come  off  to  us  in  15  canoes.  We 
had  been  observing  their  motions  while  the  officers  were 
trading  with  them  ;  and  we  perceived  that  some  of  them 
were  continually  on  the  lookout  toward  the  shore,  when 
all  at  once  they  precipitated  themselves  from  the  ship 
into  their  boats  and  paddled  quickly  for  the  shore  ; 
and  on  looking  to  ascertain  the  cause  of  their  hasty  de- 
parture, we  discovered  a  fleet  of  canoes,  coming  off 
from  the  other  valley.  The  two  parties  engaged  as  they 
passed  by  each  other.  A  number  of  arrows  were  sprung 
from  their  bows,  without  effect  for  a  short  time,  and 
then  they  proceeded  on  their  way  to  the  shore. 

Ai  the  distance  of  16  miles  from  this  island  is  a  vol- 
canic island,  about  4  miles  in  circumference,  rising  to  the 
hight  of  1,500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  We 
weie  much  amused  by  the  nightly  illumination,  which 
this  lofty  volcano  frequently  exhibited  to  our  view.  Its 
summit  was  crowned  with  scarlet  flame,  and  showers  of 
red  hot  stones  could  be  seen  rising  from  the  crater,  fall- 
ing and  rolling  from  its  summit  to  near  its  base,  which 
was  abundantly  ornamented  with  cocoa-nut  trees. 

We  had  the  pleasure  of  rowing  round  it,  and  of  land- 
ing in  several  places  to  obtain  cocoa  nuts,  but  were  un- 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  195 

successful  in  our  efforts,  the  nuts  having  previously  been 
picked  by  the  natives  from  the  neighboring  islands,  who, 
it  appears,  occasionally  visited  the  venerable  mount. 

Santa  Cruz  contains  two  distinct  races  of  men,  tl*e 
Malay  and  African,  whose  noses  are  ornamented  with 
three  shell  rings;  their  ears,  which  are  stretched  three 
inches  beyond  their  natural  length,  have  a  large  slit  cut 
in  them,  sufficient  to  admit  a  hen's  egg,  which  is  filled 
with  rings  and  beads.  The  Malay  race  wear  white  hair, 
bleached  by  some  process;  they  are  fearless, active  and  sly, 
which  make  them  objects  of  suspicion.  Notwithstand- 
ing, their  friendship  while  on  board  of  ships,  they  will 
sometimes  rise  on  the  ship's  crew.  This  was  attempted 
on  board  of  the  Alfred,  of  Sidney,  but  their  designs  were 
discovered,  and  many  of  them  lost  their  lives  in  the 
attempt.  Having  unsuccessfully  cruised  three  weeks 
off  these  islands,  we  proceeded  to  the  Solomon  isles  to 
take  the  sperm  whale  season  there. 

On  our  arrival  at  the  south  end  of  Malanta,  being  near 
the  shore,  a  number  of  canoes  came  off  to  see  the  ship. 
Some  of  them  exhibited  bunches  of  bananas,  and  we, 
being  desirous  of  obtaining  some  of  this  delicious  fruit, 
exhibited  signs  of  friendship,  and  manifested  a  desire  to 
trade  with  them.  But  our  honest  manifestations  failed 
in  the  desired  effect  on  their  jealous  and  uncultivated 
minds.  Soon  the  canoes  returned  to  shore,  and  we  made 
sail  on  the  ship.  In  the  afternoon  a  canoe,  with  eight 
natives,  came  very  near  us,  and  manifested  a  great  de- 
sire to  trade,  but  their  jealousy  finally  over-ruled  their 
desires.  Our  captain,  who  was  anxious  to  cultivate 
friendship  with  them,  had  embraced  the  idea  that  if  a 
boat  was  lowered  down  they  would  be  more  likely  to 
trade  with  her  than  the  ship.  Accordingly  he  com- 
manded a  lee  boat  to  be  lowered  slily.  The  natives 
immediately  perceived  the  movement,  and  in  a  moment 
sprung  their  bows,  and  several  arrows  fell  on  our  quarter- 
deck, one  of  them  within  two  feet  of  the  captain,  which 
had  the  effect  of  raising  his  ungovernable  temper  to  the 
superlative  degree,  and  not  exercising  moral  courage  to 
suppress  it,  he  immediately  hurried  the  boat  in  pursuit 
of  the  canoe  to  take  revenge.  I  immediately  perceived 


196  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

the  danger  10  which  we  were  to  be  exposed  by  this  rash 
and  unwise  course,  but  being  one  of  the  crew,  and  not 
wishing  to  be  stigmatized  as  a  coward  by  my  ship-mates 
1  reluctantly  went  into  the  boat  with  a  full  view  of  the 
danger  before  my  eyes.  We  shoved  off  from  the  ship 
in  hasty  pursuit.  There  was  a  heavy  sea  and  a  strong 
breeze  at  the  time,  and  the  natives  were  paddling  with 
all  possible  speed  before  the  wind  toward  the  land. — 
Soon  we  discovered  the  necessity  of  putting  up  our  sail, 
as  the  canoe  moved  with  a  greater  speed  than  our  boat. 
Having  done  this  we  soon  came  up  within  a  short  dis- 
tance of  her.  The  natives  still  continued  their  flight, 
using  the  greatest  possible  exertion,  and  at  intervals  fir- 
ing arrows  at  us  ;  but  in  consequence  of  the  strong  wind, 
and  the  roughness  of  the  sea,  the  arrows  being  light, 
were  prevented  from  performing  execution,  and  they  fell 
astern,  or  on  either  side  of  us.  The  canoe,  finding  itself 
closely  pursued,  and  having  no  hope  of  escape,  gave  up, 
and  threw  itself  across  our  bow,  each  man  seizing  his 
bow  at  the  same  time,  waited  for  us  to  near  them  in  or- 
der to  make  sure  of  their  aim.  Our  backs,  as  we  were 
rowing,  were  toward  the  natives,  and  this  gave  them  an 
opportunity  to  kill  every  one  us,  before  we  could  ap- 
proach then),  as  we  had  no  means  of  attacking  them  at 
a  distance,  having  but  one  musket,  and  our  cartridges 
being  expended.  Now  came  the  test  to  those  who 
were  so  eager  of  pursuit.  The  mate,  seeing  his  life  in 
imminent  danger,  immediately  rounded  the  boat  to  avoid 
the  danger  which  was  staring  him  in  the  face,  and  the 
natives  seeing  this,  immediately  renewed  their  flight. — 
We  had  scarcely  taken  down  our  sail  when  we  perceived 
that  the  ship  was  upon  us,  and  immediately  took  hold  of 
her  and  hoisted  in  our  boat.  The  ship,  being  under  a 
press  of  sail,  had  come  up  with  the  canoe,  and  several 
of  the  crew  were  engaged  in  firing  at  the  natives  in  it ; 
and  it  is  with  regret  1  have  to  record,  that  out  of  eight  of 
them  only  three  survived  the  attack  made  by  our  captain. 
Having  put  the  ship  on  the  other  tack,  we  fired  off 
our  cannons  at  ten  large  war  canoes,  which  had  come  off 
to  the  assistance  of  the  one  which  had  been  pursued  by 
us.  The  immoral  and  inhuman  conduct  of  our  captain, 


OF    THOMA9    W.    SMITH.  197 

in  this  case,  is  deserving  of  the  highest  censure.  He 
not  only  deprived  five  unfortunate  beings  of  life,  without 
having;  committed  a  sufficient  crime,  but  he  violated  the 
law  of  God,  which  says,  "Thou  shall  not  kill."  He  also 
wantonly  endangered  our  lives,  for  had  we  been  taken 
by  those  canoes,  we  most  undoubtedly  should  have  been 
slain,  roasted  and  devoured  by  them. 

Not  being  able  to  discover  any  whales  off  this  end  of 
the  island,  we  proceeded  to  the  other  end,  where  we 
arrived  on  the  following  day.  We  stood  into  the  bay 
and  proceeded  close  in  shore,  until  we  discovered  a 
beautiful  harbor,  from  which  ten  large  war  canoes  sailed 
out  to  attack  us.  At  first  we  imagined  they  were  com- 
ing to  trade  with  us,  and  accordingly  hove  the  ship  to, 
to  wait  for  them  ;  but  on  approaching  within  grape-shot, 
they  stopped  all  at  once  and  stood  up,  flourishing  their 
war  clubs  in  the  air,  which  was  considered  a  hostile  sign. 
At  this  our  captain  commanded  the  cannon  to  be  fir- 
ed at  them.  It  was  loaded  with  cooper's  rivets,  and 
made  a  great  scattering  among  them.  They  were  so 
suddenly  struck  and  confused  by  the  report  of  the  gun, 
that  they  did  not  know  how  to  direct  their  canoes  toward 
the  shore,  and  fora  few  minutes  paddled  them  round  and 
round,  but  at  last  they  recovered  their  minds,  and  re- 
treated with  all  possible  speed.  Some  weeks  after  this, 
we  raised  a  large  school  of  whales,  out  of  which  we  took 
seven  large  whales,  and  while  in  the  act  of  killing  them, 
we  saw  two  large  fleets  of  canoes  ;  one  fleet  was  close 
to  the  ship  Alfred's  boats,  two  miles  in  shore  of  us  ;  the 
others  were  making  their  way  toward  us.  From  the 
ship  they  saw  the  canoes  among  the  boats,  but  could  not 
discover  what  they  were  doing.  Soon  the  fleet  of  ca- 
noes which  kept  on  toward  us,  came  near  and  commenc- 
ed a  dreadful  shouting,  intermingled  with  loud  and  ter- 
rific yells,  which  were  sufficient  to  carry  dismay  to  our 
every  heart.  At  the  same  time  they  commenced  firing 
arrows  at  us.  We  had  been  watching  their  movements 
for  some  time,  and  being  apprehensive  of  their  coming 
to  take  the  whales  from  us,  we  had  prepared  our  lances 
in  case  we  should  be  attacked  by  them.  Our  boats  be- 
ing provided  with  a  musket  and  fifty  rounds  of  cartridges, 


198  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

each,  opened  a  fire  on  them  by  which  they  were  ter- 
rified and  scattered,  and  with  precipitance  proceed- 
ed toward  the  shore.  We  pursued  them  for  a  short 
distance,  firing  at  them,  which  caused  them  to  redouble 
their  speed  for  the  shore.  Several  of  them  were  killed 
and  wounded  by  our  fire  as  the  just  penalty  of  their  ag- 
gression. The  other  fleet  of  canoes,  having  attacked  the 
boats  of  the  ship  Alfred,  we  learned  the  next  day  that 
several  of  the  natives  were  killed  in  the  engagement; 
but  what  was  more  lamented  by  us,  several  of  the  crew 
with  their  captain  fell  in  the  conflict,  and  the  ship  came 
very  near  being  taken.  In  consequence  of  this  disaster, 
the  ship  was  under  the  necessity  of  returning  to  Sidney 
with  a  broken  voyage. 

We  had  been  cruising  here  several  weeks  and  had  es- 
caped every  danger  ;  but  our  good  fortune  was  reversed 
by  an  unlucky  incident,  which  occurred  to  our  boats 
while  closely  engaged  in  a  school  of  whales.  One  of 
the  boats  was  completely  cut  asunder  and  the  crew  was 
taken  up  by  the  captain's  boat.  The  whale  wl^ich  had 
occasioned  this  misfortune,  had  two  lines  fast  to  her,  to 
save  which  our  boat  was  ordered  to  fasten  to  her.  She 
was  going  swiftly  through  the  water  and  we  were  rowing 
with  all  possible  speed  to  get  up  with  her.  The  whale 
went  down  close  to  us  and  we  continued  rowing  in  her 
wake  in  order  to  strike  her  on  the  next  rising  ;  but  all 
at  once,  without  any  warning,  we  were  overset  by  her 
head  ;  and  not  being  satisfied  with  this,  she  continued 
bumping  the  boat  with  her  head  for  some  time,  as  though 
determined  to  finish  us.  The  next  man  to  me  and  my- 
self jumped  upon  her  head  and  stood  there  for  a  moment 
while  she  was  a  bumping  the  boat.  The  whale  now 
left  the  boat  and  we  with  difficulty  succeeded  in  regain- 
ing the  bottom  of  the  boat.  The  whale  laid  for  a  few 
minutes  with  her  whole  length  out  of  water,  and  about 
10  feet  from  us,  and  then  proceeded  ahead,  taking  our 
shattered  boat  with  her,  at  the  rate  of  four  miles  per 
hour.  Each  one  clung  to  the  boat  as  the  only  hope  of 
life.  We  were  in  a  most  deplorable  condition  and  in 
the  highest  conceivable  degree  of  danger,  and  at  the  rate 
that  we  were  then  going,  one  halfhour  would  have  de- 


I 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  199 

cicled  our  fate  forever,  as  it  was  now  nearly  sun-down 
and  we  had  lost  sight  of  the  ship  and  only  in  sight  of 
one  boat,  and  she  had  the  stove  boat's  crew  on  board  of 
her.  Had  we  lost  sight  of  this  boat,  we  must  have  per- 
ished in  the  midst  of  the  mighty  deep. 

Being  thus  situated  and  death  staring  us  in  the  face,  it 
was  apparent  something  must  be  done  to  extricate  the 
boat  from  the  whale;  and  this  could  only  be  done  by  cut- 
ting the  line.  To  accomplish  this  object  we  had  to  ob- 
tain a  knife  and  not  one  of  us  had  one  in  our  possession. 
We  were  now  under  the  necessity  of  turning  the  boat 
over,  which  we  attempted  15  times,  as  she  was  going 
through  the  wa'er  to  obtain  a  box  knife,  to  cut  the  line. 
There  was  now  another  unfnrseen  calamity  which  pre- 
sented it.-elf  to  our  view.  Both  the  knives  had  been 
washed  away,  and  the  next  thing  that  we  had  to  depend 
upon  was  the  boat's  hatchet;  if  we  had  failed  in  this, 
we  must  have  gone  forever,  but  fortunately  for  us,  the 
hatchet  had  been^made  fast.  With  this  we  finally  suc- 
ceeded in  extricating  ourselves  from  the  whale,  and 
then  remained  on  the  boat  until  we  were  picked  up  by 
the  captain's  boat  which  had  now  three  boat's  crews  on 
board,  the  oars  and  two  stoven  boats  astern  of  her;  and 
in  this  manner  we  proceeded  to  the  ship  which  was  five 
miles  to  the  leeward  of  us. 

Some  weeks  after  this, we  sailed  over  to  Isabel  island, 
which  is  about  30  miles  from  Malanta.  We  cruised 
several  weeks  along  its  coast  and  were  often  visited  by 
its  natives,  who  generally  came  off  in  their  large  war 
canoes  to  trade  with  us.  The  general  aspect  of  these 
natives  is  bold  and  daring;;.  The  hair  of  the  young  men 
is  generally  bleached,  peifectly  white,  but  those  of  mid- 
dle age,  have  their  hair  divided  into  four  quarters,  and 
each  quarter  is  a  different  color,  as  white,  red,  black  and 
yellow. 

Soon  we  were  favored  with  an  opportunity  of  learning 
the  treacherous  disposition  of  these  natives,  by  an  at- 
tempt which  they  made  to  take  the  ship  John  Bull,  of 
Sidney,  while  lying  becalmed  at  a  shoit  distance  from 
us.  Over  3,000  natives  in  their  war  canoes  were  around 
our  ships  at  one  time.  Many  of  the  canoes  were  along 


200  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

side  of  the  John  Bull,  whose  decks  were  soon  covered 
with  natives,  who  apparently  soon  became  deeply  enga- 
ged in  trading  with  the  crew.  While  thus  engaged,  one 
of  our  mast-head  men  discovered  the  natives  putting 
their  war-clubs  in  her  main  channels.  The  alarm  was  im- 
mediately given  by  hailing  the  ship.  This  surprised  her 
crew,  who  instantly  drove  the  natives  from  the  ship's 
decks  into  their  canoes.  It  was  probably  their  original 
design  to  take  both  ships,  but  finding  ours  too  high 
to  accomplish  their  designs,  they  declined  meddling  with 
us,  and  directed  nearly  their  whole  force  to  the  John 
Bull,  she  being  a  sm.ill  ship  and  low  in  the  water. 

A  few  days  subsequently  to  this  we  sailed  for  the  other 
end  of  the  island  in  search  of  whales,  and  not  meeting 
with  any  offshore,  we  sailed  in  toward  the  land.  Having 
got  near  a  small  island  close  into  the  shore,  we  discover- 
ed a  large  bay  from  our  mast-head,  full  of  whales.  The 
entrance  was  narrow,  as  the  island  was  in  the  centre  of 
its  mouth.  -Our captain  being  over  anxious,  had  enter- 
tained the  idea  of  venturing  the  ship  in  this  unkown  bay, 
if  the  natives,  with  whom  the  island  and  the  shore  were 
then  lined,  manifested  signs  of  tranquility.  But  soon 
he  had  great  reasons  to  banish  this  idea  from  his  mind. 
The  natives,  seeing  the  ship  becalmed  and  close  to  the 
shore,  kept  coming  off  in  their  large  and  small  canoes 
until  there  were  two  or  three  thousand  arpund  the  ship, 
but  not  one  of  them  attempted  to  come  near  us,  or  ex- 
hibited signs  of  friendship.  Perceiving  by  their  actions 
that  their  intentions  were  hostile,  we  immediately  got 
up  our  arms,  loaded  our  guns  and  swivels  and  stationed 
several  armed  men  in  each  top,  while  the  rest  were  en- 
gaged in  fixing  old  sails  round  the  ship  to  prevent  the 
natives  from  boarding  us.  By  thh  time  the  natives  had 
formed  their  canoes  into  a  large  ring,  which  completely 
encompassed  the  ship;  they  kept  constantly  paddling 
round  us  in  this  position,  leaving  several  small  canoes 
out  of  the  ring  at  each  time  they  went  round,  thus  mak- 
ing the  ring  smaller  and  smaller  and  drawing  nearer  to  the 
ship.  After  having  paddled  round  the  ship  several 
times,  their  ring  which  was  now  composed  of  large  war 
canoes,  being  sufficiently  near  for  their  arrows  to  reach 


OF    THOMAS    W.     SMITH.  201 

us,  they  commenced  shooting  arrows  and  slinging  stones, 
which  fell  in  and  against  the  ship  by  showers;  at  the 
same  time  they  made  tremendous  and  terrific  yells,  which 
struck  the  ear  with  horror  and  dismay.  Amidst  this 
hideous  and  dismal  event  our  hearts  continued  buoyant 
and  undismayed,  being  well  aware  that  it  would  be  im- 
possible for  them  to  board  us.  They  still  continued  to 
shoot  their  arrows  and  to  make  their  terrific  noises,  near- 
ing  the  ship  at  the  same  time,  thus  exhibiting  a  bold  de- 
termination to  take  the  ship.  They  had  approached 
within  60  feet  of  us  when  our  captain  commanded  us  to 
to  be  ready  ;  "  ready"  was  the  immediate  response  of 
every  man.  "Fire  /"  was  the  word  of  command.  The 
command  was  instantaneously  obeyed  by  the  discharge  of 
six  swivels  and  2  guns,  loaded  with  grape  and  canister 
shot.  This  discharge  was  followed,  while  the  cannon 
and  swivels  were  loading,  by  a  discharge  of  30  muskets 
from  the  tops  and  other  parts  of  the  vessel.  These  dis- 
charges were  quickly  followed  by  4  more  which  overtook 
them  before  they  could  succeed  in  getting  out  of  the  reach 
of  the  grape  shot.  The  effect  produced  was  tremen- 
dous ;  15  large  war  canoes  were  totally  destroyed  and 
most  of  their  crews.  Their  loss  was  estimated  at  200 
men  and  as  many  wounded.  The  scene  of  confusion 
and  destruction  which  our  first  fire  produced  among  the 
natives  was  at  once  lamentable  and  laughable.  Ma- 
ny of  the  natives  lost  their  paddles,  and  being  so  terrified 
by  the  unexpected  roaring  and  destruction  which  our 
cannon  produced,  that  they  did  not  know  what  to  do 
or  how  to  make  their  escape.  In  this  confusion  they 
paddled  one  against  the  other  and  some  of  them  round 
and  round  having  all  their  paddles  on  one  side  of  their 
canoes. 

Shortly  after  the  encounter  a  light  breeze  came  off' 
the  land  and  conveyed  us  to  the  offing  where  we  cruised 
several  weeks  and  took  in  300  barrels  of  oil. 

The  whale  season  being  over  at  this  island,  we  pro- 
ceeded to  Japan  to  take  the  approaching  season  there. 
On  our  passage  we  ran  through  the  midst  of  the  Caro- 
line isles,  continuing  our  course  until  we  arrived  at  the 
Island  of  Guam,  a  Spanish  island  and  the  largest  of  the 
26 


202  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

Ladrones.  It  was  expedient  for  us  to  put  into  this  port 
to  recruit  the  ship  with  fresh  provisions.  The  island  of 
Guam  is  nearly  100  miles  fong.  It  is  high  and  moun- 
taneous  and  its  surface  is  covered  with  woods.  Its  chief 
produce  is  rice  and  cocoa  nuts,  and  these  are  scanty, 
not  being  sufficient  to  sustain  its  population,  which  are 
often  in  the  winter  season  in  a  state  of  starvation.  The 
island,  in  former  years,  abounded  with  deer,  but  since  it 
has  become  a  Spanish  colony,  the  introduction  of  fire- 
arms has  nearly  destroyed  them.  The  natives  still  con- 
tinue to  hunt  them  in  the  winter  season,  and  to  perform 
their  work  more  effectually  they  build  small  huts  in  the 
mountains,  to  shelter  them  from  the  prevalent  rains  dur- 
ing the  continuation  of  their  hunting  excursion. 

During  the  colonization  of  this  island  by  the  Span- 
iards, civilization  has  not  made  much  progress  among 
the  natives.  The  natives  of  this  island,  notwithstanding 
that  they  seem  to  regard  the  popish  religion,  are  in  real- 
ity surpassed  in  civilization  by  many  tribes  of  savages, 
who  have  never  heard  the  sound  of  the  gospel. 

Having  recruited  the  ship,  we  departed  for  Japan  and 
proceeded  along  the  whole  of  the  Ladrone  isles.  One 
of  these  islands  is  ornamented  with  one  of  nature's  light- 
houses, which  exhibits  a  beautiful,  a  brilliant  light  from 
the  summit  of  the  mount,  which  seldom  fails  of  attrac- 
ting the  attention  of  the  passing  manner. 

At  last  we  made  the  long  expected  land  of  Japan,  off 
of  which  we  anticipated  filling  our  ship  with  sperm  oil. 
We  made  White  Point,  off  which  we  cruised  for  some 
time,  and  then  pioceeded  to  the  north,  close  in  shore. 
While  cruising  here  we  were  visited  by  many  of  the 
Japanese  fishing  boats,  \vilh  which  the  coast  abounds. 
We  obtained  a  number  of  curiosities  from  them  which 
exhibited  their  ingenuity  and  cultivation  of  the  arts. 

We  al-o  visited  several  of  the  Japanese  Junks,  which 
greatly  differ  in  construction  from  the  vessels  built  by 
more  refined  nations.  My  attention  was  particularly  at- 
tracted by  the  large  houses  which  they  have  on  deck 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  crew  and  which  oc- 
cupy over  one  half  of  the  upper  part  of  the  vessel, 
rising  eight  or  ten  feet  above  board.  1  can  give  uo 


Of    fHOMAS     W.    SMITH.  203 


better  description  of  them  than  by  comparing  them,  with 
the  exception  of  their  houses,  to  the  ancient  Greek  and 
Roman  vessels. 

The  Japanese  resemble  the  Chinese  in  features  and 
costume,  but  those  that  I  have  seen  differ  somewhat  in 
their  shape  from  the  Chinese,  the  former  being  rather 
shorter  and  thicker  than  the  latter. 

After  having  cruised  along  the  shore  for  several  weeks 
in  succession,  amidst  dense  fogs,  we  stood  off  shore,  an- 
ticipating better  success  on  the  off  shore  ground.  We 
cruised  there  for  a  number  of  weeks  with  abundant 
success,  having  realized  our  anticipations  by  the  taking 
of  several  whales,  from  which  we  extracted  900  barrels 
of  oil.  We  then  took  our  departure  from  the  Japan 
seas  and  proceeded  toward  the  Solomon  isles,  at  which 
we  arrived  to  take  the  ensuing  whale  season. 

Having  cruised  for  several  weeks,  we  were  one  day 
becalmed  by  the  shore,  and  while  thus  waiting  the  ap- 
proach of  the  coming  breeze  to  glide  our  lonely  bark 
over  the  bosom  of  the  limpid  deep,  we  busied  and 
amused  ourselves  by  trading  with  the  natives  in  two  ca- 
noes, which  were  then  lying  astern  of  our  ship.  Our 
mate,  who  was  acquainted  with  the  Malay  language,  was 
endeavoring  to  make  them  understand  by  speaking  to 
them  in  that  language,  supposing  that  by  its  similarity  to 
ther  own;  they  might  probably  take  his  meaning.  While 
thus  conversing  with  them,  all  at  once  one  of  their 
number  leaped  like  a  dart,  from  one  of  the  canoes, 
swam  along  side  of  the  ship  and  immediately  gained  the 
deck  by  the  assistance  of  some  of  the  rrew.  Instantly 
after  he  had  leaped  over  board  he  was  followed  by  two 
others,  who  with  equal  speed  followed  him  on 
board  of  the  ship.  We  were  surprised  by  the  unexpec- 
ted visit,  and  were  at  a  loss  to  ascertain  the  cause  of  their 
mysterious  conduct,  having  previously  in  vain  invited 
them  on  board,  but  the  mystery  was  soon  unraveled  by 
the  painful  information  imparted  to  our  mate  by  the  first 
native  that  had  come  on  board.  There  had  been  an 
English  brig  lost  some  ten  years  before,  and  a  strong 
suspicion  had  long  been  cherished  by  navigators  of  her 
loss  among  these  islands,  and  now  the  mystery  which 


204  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

had  so  long  been  hid,  was  fortunately  brought  to  light. 
The  man  who  first  swam  to  the  ship,  proved  to  be  a 
Lascar  and  one  of  the  crew  of  the  missing  vessel,  who 
hearing  his  own  language  spoken,  and  knowing  us  to  be 
English,  immediately  embraced  ihe  opportunity  of  liber- 
ating himself  from  the  bonds  of  savage  slavery,  and  be- 
ing confident  of  our  protection,  plunged  into  the  sea  and 
was  quickly  followed  by  two  chiefs  who  endeavored  to 
capture  him,  he  being  their  slave.  He  gave  a  full  and 
satisfactory  history  of  the  vessel  and  her  crew,  which  ac- 
cording to  his  relation,  had  been  cast  on  a  small  island  at 
no  great  distance  from  Malanta  and  had  subsequently 
disappeared.  The  vessel's  crew,  which  consisted  of  14 
Englishmen  and  6  Lascars,  were  taken  by  the  natives 
and  put  on  a  small  island  and  there  kept  as  the  victims 
of  their  cannibalism. 

The  description  which  he  gave  of  the  manner  in 
which  the  natives  disposed  of  the  unfortunate  crew  was 
most  appalling.  It  appears  that  the  natives  into  whose 
merciless  hands  they  had  fallen  had  certain  established 
festivals,  which  they  celebrated  by  the  sacrifice  of  such 
human  beings  as  they  had  taken  captives  in  their 
wars  with  each  other;  and  as  cannibals  always  consider 
white  men  their  enemies,  they  were  reserved  as  the  sac- 
rificial victims  of  their  fury.  Whenever  the  tribe  in 
whose  power  the  unfortunate  sailors  had  fallen,  assembled 
to  celebrate  a  festival,  they  proceeded  to  the  small  island 
in  their  canoes  where  their  victims  were  encircled  by  the 
foaming  billows  in  hopeless  captivity,  and  made  choice 
of  a  victim  in  whose  blood  to  imbue  their  hand  and  by 
whose  flesh  to  gratify  the  diabolical  cravings  of  their  can- 
nibal appetites.  The  victim  being  chosen  he  was  then 
secured  hand  and  foot  and  barbarously  put  to  death  by 
their  rude  and  savage  hands.  After  this  the  victim  was 
roasted  by  a  large  fire.  Dunng  the  time  that  their  re- 
past was  preparing,! hey  formed  a  ring  around  the  fire  and 
amused  themselves  by  dancing  and  singing  around  the 
roasting  victim. 

In  this  manner  17  of  the  crew  were  disposed  of.  Two 
Lascars  beside  himself,  still  survived  their  savage  fury, 
and  were  kept  in  slavery.  He  was  so  overjoyed  at  his 


OF    THOMAS    W.  SMITH.  205 

deliverance  that  he  did  not  know  how  to  express  his  feel- 
ings for  some  time.  He  gave  information  of  the  second 
mate  of  the  Alfred,  who  had  been  captured  by  them 
while  we  were  there  in  company  with  that  ship  on  our 
previous  cruise.  He  informed  us  that  he  was  kept 
in  slavery  by  them  some  ways  back  in  the  mountains. 
The  Lascar  was  subsequently  sent  to  Sidney  to  be  taken 
to  his  native  country. 

After  having  cruised  on  this  ground  for  two  months, 
during  which  time  we  had  fortunately  added  400  barrels 
to  our  voyage,  we  took  our  departure  and  proceeded  to 
the  New  Hebrides.  On  our  way,  we  lingered  off  the 
isle  of  Santa  Cruz  three  days  and  then  proceeded  to 
one  of  those  islands  situate  in  the  south  of  this  group, 
to  obtain  a  few  barrels  of  waier,  being  rather  scanty  of 
this  precious  beverage.  We  had  previously  received  in- 
formation that  by  making  a  few  presents  to  the  chiefs, 
we  might,  with  great  caution,  obtain  a  few  barrels  of 
water  there.  A  number  of  the  natives  came  off  to  trade 
with  us,  and  among  them  was  a  chief,  to  whom  our 
captain  made  several  presents,  as  an  equivalent  for  per- 
mitting us  to  obtain  some  water  at  the  island.  As  the 
only  part  of  the  island,  accessible,  was  guarded  by  seve- 
ral dangerous  rocks  and  reefs,  it  was  expedient  that  we 
should  have  some  one,  acquainted  with  the  place,  to 
conduct  the  boats  safe  through  the  passages.  This  the 
chief  cheerfully  agreed  to  perform  ;  and  accordingly 
went  into  one  of  the  boats  and  conducted  her  safely  to 
the  shore.  While  one  boat's  crew  were  engaged  in 
filling  the  barrels,  the  other  were  under  the  necessity  of 
keeping  under  arms  at  a  short  distance  from  the  shore, 
being  apprehensive  of  the  natives  proving  treacherous 
and  seizing  the  boats  as  their  prize,  and  us  as  their  cap- 
tives. After  the  barrels  were  filled,  two  of  the  men, 
being  over  anxious  of  obtaining  some  fruits  from  the  na- 
tives, imprudently  suffered  themselves  to  be  decoyed  in- 
to the  woods  by  them,  against  the  entreaties  and  remon- 
strances of  their  shipmates.  After  the  water  was  put 
into  the  boats,  they  waited  three  hours  for  them,  but 
finding  that  they  could  not  obtain  the  information  from  the 
natives  concerning  them,  they  proceeded  to  the  ship. 


206  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

They  were  again  sent  on  shore  in  search  of  the  two  men, 
but  failed  of  obtaining  any  information  ;  after  cautiously 
avoiding  the  shrewd  intrigues  of  the  natives,  who  had 
assembled  in  great  numbers  along  the  shore,  to  decoy 
them  into  the  woods,  by  pointing  to  them  where  their 
companions  were,  they  pensively  and  reluctlantly  re- 
turned to  the  ship  to  mourn  their  sad  fate. 

After  the  return  of  the  boats,  the  captain  being  in- 
formed of  the  proceedings  on  shore,  immediately  put  the 
ship  before  the  wind  and  we  proceeded  on  our  passage. 
As  the  ship  receded  from  the  land,  we  could  not  help 
reflecting  on  the  unfortunate  event,  which  reluctlantly 
compelled  us  to  abandon  those  unfortunate  ship-mates  to 
their  fate.  Our  hearts  were  drawn  out  in  sympathetic 
feeling,  as  we  viewed  at  the  distance,  this  isle  of  barba- 
rians sinking  from  our  vision. 

This  barbarous  island,  as  well  as  Santa  Cruz,  is  peo- 
pled by  two  races  of  men  ;  the  Malay  and  African,  who 
like  the  natives  of  Santa  Cruz,  adorned  their  noses  and 
ears  with  tortoise-shell  rings,  and  their  heads  by  dying 
them  with  fine  colors,  which  sets  them  off  to  good  advan- 
tage. But  what  served  to  amuse  more  than  any  thing 
that  we  had  seen,  was  the  gaudy  appearance  of  the  Af- 
rican, whose  hair  was  colored  with  a  lively  gold  color, 
and  at  a  dislance  very  much  resembled  that  precious 
metal.  The  scene  was  one  which  afforded  much  amuse- 
ment to  our  crew,  when  we  first  beheld  them  at  a 
short  distance  from  the  ship  in  their  catamarans,  (a  raft 
of  logs  fastened  together  with  skins)  exhibiting  their 
well-shaped  and  jet-black  forms,  covered  with  golden 
crowns.  This  island,  which  is  situated  about  50  miles 
from  Santa  Cruz,  was  the  identical  one  on  which  the 
unfortunate  ship  L'E:npereur  was  lost,  on  her  voyage  of 
discovery  round  the  world. 

This  discovery  was  made  by  an  English  brig,  which 
happened  to  pass  that  way,  while  on  her  passage  to  the 
East  Indies.  While  in  the  act  of  passing  by  the  island, 
several  canoes  came  off  to  trade  with  her,  and  among 
the  many  articles  of  trade,  a  sword  was  brought,  which 
was  bought  by  the  captain  of  the  brig,  together  with 
part  of  the  vessel's  figure-head.  The  sword  proved  to 


OF    THOMAS   W.    SMITH.  207 

none  other  than  that  of  the  captain  of  the  L'Empereur, 
and  the  figure-head  a  part  of  that  which  had  once  orna- 
mented that  ill-fated  ship. 

In  twelve  days  after  our  departure  from  the  New 
Hebrides,  we  arrived  at  the  island  of  Rotatnah,  where 
we  came  to  an  anchor,  to  obtain  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
water  to  serve  us  to  New  Zealand.  Having  cast  an- 
chor, we  immediately  proceeded  to  provide  the  ship 
with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  water  and  in  four  days  suc- 
cessfully accomplished  our  object. 

While  there  we  visited  a  great  many  of  the  natives' 
habitations,  as  we  traveled  over  the  island.  We  were 
kindly  treated  by  them,  and  frequently  invited  into  their 
houses,  and  on  seveM'al  occasions  were  urged  to  partake 
of  their  wholesome  repast.  While  on  an  excusion  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  island,  we  came  to  a  single  hut, 
into  which  we  were  invited  by  several  young  persons, 
who  apparently  were  its  inmates.  We  readily  accept- 
ed their  friendly  invitation,  entered  their  hut  and  sat 
down  on  the  sandy  floor,  covered  with  clean  mats,  made 
ol  cocoa-nut  leaves.  They  appeared  to  be  highly  grat- 
ified, conversed  freely  by  signs,  and  endeavored  by  eve- 
ry means  in  their  power,  to  make  us  welcome  to  their 
hospitality.  One  strong  mark  of  their  sincerity  was  that 
the  young  men  immediately  commenced  chewing  the 
cassava-root,  to  make  poie,  to  regale  us  on  the  occasion, 
which  was  a  demonstration  of  their  high  respect  and  ap- 
probation. Poie  is  a  liquor  with  which  these  natives 
regale  themselves  and  their  friends  on  extraoidinary  oc- 
casions. No  member  of  a  family  can  engage  in  making 
tin's  liquor,  except  the  virgin  males,  by  whom  the  root  is 
chewed  and  put  into  a  large  wooden  bowl,  into  which  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  water  is  then  poured,  and  permit- 
ted to  steep  for  a  certain  time,  and  it  is  strained  by  the 
same  persons  ;  it  is  then  considered  fit  for  use.  It  is  in- 
dispen>able  that  those  engaged  in  making  the  poie,  be 
virgins,  as  all  other  persons  are  considered  defiled,  in 
consequence  of  which  they  are  deemed  unsuitable  to 
make  this  extraoidinary  beverage. 

The  island   of   Rotamah   is  8  miles  long  and  not  ex- 
ceeding one  in  its  extreme  breadth.     It  exhibits  a  grand 


208  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

and  picturesque  view  to  the  eye  scarce])7  lobe  surpassed. 
It  is  a  fertile  island  and  produces  a  variety  of  the  choic- 
est tropical  fruits,  and  the  largest  cocoa  nuts  thnt  1  ever 
beheld.  The  natives  are  of  a  very  light  complexion, 
handsome  and  well  formed  in  every  respect.  Jn  their 
general  deportment  they  are  generous,  kind  and  courte- 
ous to  strangers. 

My  attention  was  particularly  attracted  by  their  gen- 
eral practice  of  loosening  their  long  hair  on  every  occa- 
sion when  they  visited  us  on  board,  or  when  we  visited 
them  in  their  habitations;  and  being  peculiarly  desirous 
of  ascertaining  the  particular  cause  and  utility  of  the 
practice,  I  made  strict  enquiry.  I  was  informed  that  it 
was  done  as  a  great  mark  of  politeness  and  respect  to 
strangers. 

Their  dress  consists  of  a  fine  woven  mat,  fastened 
around  their  waist?,  and  extending  below  the  knee.  The 
upper  part  of  the  body,  which  is  frequently  anointed  with 
yellow  gum,  is  seldom  covered. 

This  island  is  governed  by  a  king,  chosen  from  among 
the  chiefs,  to  reign  for  the  term  of  three  years,  at  the 
expiration  of  which  another  election  takes  place.  There 
were  then  residing  among  the  natives  23  Englishmen 
and  one  American,  who  had  been  induced  by  the  natives 
to  desert  their  ships  and  marry  there.  Tha  marriage 
ceremony  is  performed  by  the  chief  of  each  tribe,  whose 
services  must  be  rewarded  by  the  bridegroom  with  a 
cotton  shiit.  The  bride  is  adorned  wilh  beads  round 
her  neck,  and  a  cotton  shirt  for  a  wedding  dress.  Her 
father  and  mother  are  each  to  receive  a  cotton  shirt,  as 
an  equivalent  for  their  daughter,  and  then  the  marriage 
is  confirmed.  Three  of  our  men,  who  had  no  desire  to 
return  home  in  the  ship,  were  induced  by  the  natives  to 
desert,  and  unite  in  wedlock  with  some  of  the  pretty 
nymphs  of  the  isle. 

•*  The  ship  being  now  ready  for  sea,  we  took  our  de- 
parture from  Rotnmah,  and  in  four  weeks  arrived  in  the 
bay  of  islands  at  New  Zealand,  and  came  to  anchor  in 
the  beautiful  harbor  of  Crorica,  to  refit  the  ship  for  En- 
gland. 

On  our  arrival  we  ascertained  by  the  NewZealanders, 


OF    THOMAS    W.   SMITH.  209 

who  had  been  the  voyage  with  us,  that  there  was  a  mis- 
understanding existing  between  the  two  largest  tribes  in 
the  island,  which  was  likely  to  break  out  in  hostilities 
and  disturb  its  peace.  Both  the  tribes  belonged  to  the 
Bay  of  islands,  and  the  greatest  harmony  and  friendship 
had  always  prevailed  between  them  until  the  present 
period.  So  great  was  their  friendship  that  on  various 
evasions  their  forces  had  been  united  and  sent  on  suc- 
cessful expeditions  to  other  parts  of  the  island,  from  which 
they  have  returned  laden  with  the  trophies  of  victories 
over  their  enemies.  The  tribe  which  belonged  to  the 
opposite  side  of  the  bay,  was  headed  by  the  daring  chiefs 
Whorowroah  and  Tetory.  The  tribe  belonging  to  Cro- 
rica  was  headed5^'  the  celebrated  and  invincible  chiefs 
Kivakiva  and  Burnaray.  It  appears  that  the  original 
seeds  of  their  disagreement  were  sown  in  a  then  recent 
jealousy  which  had  arisen  among  the  Whorowrarians 
about  the  benefit  of  the  trade,  which  the  Kivakivians 
were  enjoying  from  the  fifteen  ships  then  lying  at  Crori- 
ca.  The  Whorowrarians  insisted  on  a  right  to  reside  in 
Crorica,  to  share  with  them  in  the  benefits  to  be  derived 
from  trading  with  the  ships.  The  Kivakivians  opposed 
them  in  their  unjust  pretension  to  a  right  of  residence  in 
their  dominions,  and  therefore  resolved  to  resist  their  at- 
tempts. 

A  few  days  subsequent  to  our  arrival,  the  ships  in  the 
harbor,  and  particularly  ours,  were  crowded  with  the 
principal  families  of  the  Kivakivian  and  Bumaray  tribes. 
They  were  under  the  necessity  of  taking  shelter  on  board 
of  us,  in  consequence  of  the  daily  expectation  of  the 
Whorowroah  tribe,  coming  to  assert  their  claims  by  the 
force  of  arms./. 

After  the  Kivakivians  had  endured  ten  days  of  painful 
anxiety,  the  long  expected  tribe  arrived  in  their  war 
canoes,  and  landed  unmolested  on  Crorica  beach.  The 
warriors,  who  were  100  in  number,  immediately  marchefl 
to  the  village,  where  they  were  promptly  met  by  the 
Kivakivians.  As  soon  as  they  met.  both  tribes  were 
immediately  arrayed  opposite  each  other,  a  few  paces 
distant,  and  in  a  few  minutes  commenced  the  war  dance, 
accompanied  by  their  terrific  war  song,  in  which  all  uni- 
27 


210  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

:ed  as  with  one  voice.  Their  tremendous  and  inhuman 
yells,  which  reverberated  from  hill  to  hill  and  wave  to 
wave,  were  sufficient  to  dismay  men  of  common  forti- 
tude. After  the  conclusion  of  their  dance  the  Whorow- 
rarians  embarked  in  their  canoes  and  returned  to  their 
respective  places,  apparently  perfectly  satisfied,  but  sub- 
sequent events  proved  otherwise. 

Having  been  for  a  few  days  in  painful  anxiety,  anti^, 
cipating  a  battle  to  be  fought  as  soon  as  ihe  belligerents* 
should  meet,  and  being  thus  happily  disappointed,  I  was 
particularly  led  to  inquire  into  the  cause  of  these  pro- 
ceedings, and  was  informed  by  one  of  our  natives,  a 
young  chief,  and  a  nephew  of  Kivakiva,  that  they  had 
come  with  the  undoubted  design  of  taking  advantage  of 
the  Kivakivians,  but  finding  themselves  outnumbered, 
they  made  a  temporary  treaty  of  peace,  which  was  cel- 
ebrated by  the  war  dance  and  song. 

Three  days  after,  it  was  currently  reported  that  the 
Whorowrarians  were  making  great  exertions  to  enlist  the 
smaller  trib?s  in  their  unjust  cause,  and  were  preparing 
an  expedition  against  Crorica,  which,  according  to  their 
belief,  could  not  fail  of  conquering  the  Kivakivian  tribe. 

The  Kivakivians  being  informed  of  their  intentions, 
and  being  aware  of  the  annihilation  of  their  tribe  if  they 
were  defeated,  doubled  their  diligence  in  concentrating 
their  tribe  at  Crorica  from  the  various  parts  of  the  Cav- 
acaway  river,  to  resist  their  enemies  to  the  uttermost  in 
their  power. 

In  ten  days  after  the  pretended  treaty  of  peace,  the 
Whorowrarian  fleet  of  war  canoes  landed  on  a  beach  at 
the  back  of  Crorica,  about  a  mile  from  the  village. 

The  Kivakivians  immediately  placed  a  number  of  men 
on  the  bill  above  the  village,  to  watch  the  motions  of  the 
enemy.  The  tribes  continued  to  watch  each  other's 
movements  for  several  days,  during  which  time  the  En- 
glish missionaries  and  several  of  the  ship- masters  in  port,  . 
visited  the  Whorowrarians.  and  endeavored  to  the  utter- 
most of  their  power  to  adjust  the  existing  difficulties  and 
bring  about  a  reconciliation.  Their  efforts  were  finally 
crowned  with  success,  and  it  was  agreed  to  conclude  the 
peace  with  the  customary  war  dance  and  song.  Agree- 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  211 

ably  to  this,  the  Whorowrarians  were  to  march  over  the 
hill  into  Crorica,  where  the  ceremony  was  to  take  place 
the  next  day. 

At  ten  o'clock  on  the  following  day  we  were  favored 
with  the  sight  of  the  Whorowrarian  tribe,  as  it  descended 
into  the  valley  of  Crorica,  from  the  summit  of  the  hill. 
Soon  they  arrived  at  one  end  of  the  village,  where  they 
were  received  by  the  Kivakivians.  They  were  arrayed 
in  the  same  manner  and  went  through  the  same  kind 
of  ceremonies  as  on  the  former  occasion,  except  the  war- 
song  and  the  firing  of  muskets,  by  lar  exceeding  the 
former  occasion  which  was  in  consequence  of  the  great- 
er number  assembled.  It  was  a  calm  and  beautiful 
morning  and  the  sun  shone  in  full  splendor  upon  the 
green  valley  and  and  the  surrounding  hills,  which  added 
grandeur  to  the  scene.  Being  particularly  desirous  of 
watching  every  movement  of  the  natives,  1  took  my  po- 
sition in  the  main-top-mast  cross-trees,  from  whence 
could  be  distinctly  discerned  every  transaction;  but  what 
added  to  my  advantageous  position,  was  the  nearness  of 
the  ship  to  the  shore  and  the  brightness  of  the  day. 

After  the  treaty  of  peace  had  been  concluded  in  the 
usual  manner,  the  Whorowrarians  and  Tetories  took  up 
a  line  of  march  to  ascend  the  hill,  in  order  to  return  to 
their  canones,  and  from  thence  to  their  respective  homes. 
They  had  proceeded  a  distance  of  200  yards,  when  one 
of  them  very  unwisely  fired  at  a  girl  in  the  village  and 
killed  her.  The  reason  he  did  so  was,  he  claimed  the 
fcirl  as  his  slave  :  she  denied  his  claim,  and  was  pre- 
vented by  the  Kivakivians  from  meddling  with  her.  The 
shooting  of  ^irl  unfortunately  was  the  means  of  involv- 
ing the^e  tribes  in  a  bloody  war,  which  proved  disas- 
terous  to  both.  The  firing  of  this  musket  upon  a  friend- 
ly people  was  considered  by  the  high-spirited  Kivakivi- 
ans an  audacious  aggression  and  a  palpable  insult  upon 
their  tribe,  and  a  violation  of  the  treaty  which  they  had 
just  concluded.  Viwing  the  gross  insult  in  this  light, 
Bumaray,  a  high-spirited  and  intrepid  chief,  immediately 
returned  the  hr«,  by  which  the  aggressor  was  killed. 

The  Whorowrarians,  who  undoubtedly  had  artfully 
contrived  this  plan  to  break  the  treaty,  seeing  the  ofFen- 


212  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

der  fall,  instantly  ran  furiously  down  the  hill  and  attack- 
ed the  Kivakivians  in  their  village.  A  general  engage- 
ment now  ensued.  The  women  and  children  fled  by 
hundreds  from  their  huts  and  plunged  into  the  sea  and 
swam  to  the  ships  for  safety,  while  others  ran  to  the  op- 
posite end  of  the  beach  and  embarked  in  the  ship's  boats 
and  thus  many  of  them  escaped  the  fury  of  their  ene- 
mies. Many  were  unfortunately  wounded  as  they  were 
retreating  along  the  beach  from  their  merciless  foes, 
while  others  but  narrowly  escaped.  Several  of  the  wo- 
men while  in  the  act  of  going  off  in  the  boat  were  woun- 
ded, and  one  of  them,  who  was  Kivakivers'  daughter, 
met  with  her  untimely  end  on  this  occasion.  Some  of 
the  sailors  were  also  wounded  and  several  of  the  boats 
were  badly  injured  by  the  bullets,  which  went  through 
them. 

The  Whorowrarians,  who  numbered  600  warriors,  out 
of  which  only  200  were  provided  with  muskets,  were 
under  the  necessity  of  keeping  their  forces  at  one  end 
of  the  village  as  they  dared  not  attack  them  in  front  or 
rear,  as  it  would  have  exposed  them  to  the  deadly  fire 
of  the  Kivakivians,  who  were  sheltered  by  their  houses 
encircled  by  an  insurmountable  palisade. 

The  Kivakivians,  who  at  this  time  only  numbered 
400  warriors  with  nearly  300  muskets,  notwithstanding 
their  inferiority  of  numbers,  defended  their  village  with 
heroic  bravery  which  characterized  their  tribe. 

Soon  after  the  commencement  of  the  attack,  I  per- 
ceived the  misssionaries  boats  with  their  white  flags  fly- 
ing at  their  bows,  coming  with  all  possible  speed  towards 
the  field  of  battle,  at  which  they  arrived  in  about  three 
quarters  of  an  hour  from  its  commencement.  I  watch- 
ed their  progress  with  anxious  intensity,  being  desirous 
of  witnessing  and  ascertaining  the  effect  which  their  im- 
mediate presence  and  influence  would  ex^rt  over  the 
natives  while  engaged  in  the  work  of  savagf  futy.  They 
landed  within  100  feet  of  the  Whorowrarians,  and  without 
hesitation,  these  two  faithful  servants  of  the  Lord,  walk- 
ed into  the  midst  of  the  battle,  seemingly  unconcerned 
as  to  their  own  immediate  safety.  I  gazed  on  them  with 
deep  and  fearful  solicitude  as  they  approached  the  dan- 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH. 

gerous  scene,  in  full  expectation  of  seeing  them  shot. 
As  they  proceeded  into  the  midst  of  the  tribes,  I  coun- 
ted over  fifty  bullets  which  fell  near  and  around  them, 
some  of  them  not  exceeding  the  distance  of  three  or 
four  feet  from  them.  In  fifteen  minutes  after  their  lan- 
ding a  cessation  of  arms  took  place  through  their  instru- 
mentality, and  the  Whorowrarians  retreated  over  the  hill, 
having  been  worsted  in  the  battle,  their  total  loss  being 
60,  ten  of  whom  were  chiefs  ;  their  wounded  amounted 
to  an  hundred.  The  total  loss  of  the  Kivakivians  was 
fifteen  and  about  as  many  wounded. 

Immediately  after  the  Whorowrarians  had  left  the  viK- 
lage  we  landed  on  the  shore  for  the  purpose  of  seeing 
the  dead  and  the  wounded  and  to  ascertain  the  losses  of 
the  tribe. 

On  the  following  day  it  being  the  sabbath,  we  went 
on  shore  to  witness  the  funeral  ceremonies  performed 
over  the  remains  of  Kivakiva's  daughter,  who  had  been 
shot  the  preceding  day  in  the  boat  while  in  the  act  of 
going  to  one  of  the  ships.  The  coffin  which  contained 
the  body,  after  having  remained  afloat  all  night  in  one  of 
their  war  canoes,  was  brought  on  shore  and  put  on  the 
ground  by  the  side  of  her  father's  house.  The  mourn- 
ing women  then  assembled  and  formed  a  circle  round  her 
coffin  and  commenced  singing  a  low  and  mournful  song, 
at  the  same  time  cutting  their  limbs  and  faces  with  sea 
shells  in  such  a  manner  as  to  draw  their  blood  from  ev- 
ery inflicted  gash.  By  these  combined  means  their 
feelings  were  excited  into  a  flood  of  hypocritical  tears, 
which  continued  until  nature  became  wearied,  and  then 
they  ceased  operations,  which  left  not  a  vestage  of  in- 
ward grief  in  their  countenances.  The  corpse  was  then 
put  into  a  canoe  and  taken  to  the  bank  of  Cavacavvay 
river,  to  be  interred. 

The  Kivakivians  being,  well  aware  that  their  enemies 
would  return  furiously  upon  them  as  s(.on  as  they  could 
reinforce  their  strength  by  the  additional  number  enlisted 
from  the  inferior  tribes,  deemed  it  prudent  to  leave  Cro- 
rica  and  proceed  to  Cavacavvay  river,  where  the  most  of 
their  property  was,  to  prepare  to  resist  the  invasion  of 
their  enemies  to  the  uttermost  in  their  power.  To  effect 


214  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

this,  they  embarked  all  their  families  and  effects,  and  af- 
ter setting  their  village  on  fire,  proceeded  up  the  river 
and  took  up  their  residence  on  a  commanding  peninsula 
from  which  they  could  command  both  branches  of  the 
river,  This  peninsula  was  united  to  the  main  by  a  narrow 
neck  of  low  land,  about  50  feet  wide,  on  which  their 
canoes  were  hauled  up  out  of  the  water.  Its  surface 
was  nearly  level  and  it  contained  about  eight  acres  of 
good  land,  while  its  sides  and  outer  end  were  composed 
of  perpendicular  rocks  about  60  feet  in  bight.  It  was 
quite  inaccessable,  excepting  in  one  place,  that  rose  grad- 
ually to  the  summit,  and  this  place  was  strongly  fortified 
by  two  strong  palisades. 

As  the  tribe  had  left  Crorica  we  were  under  the  ne- 
cessity of  following  them  to  the  aforesaid  place,  to  ob- 
tain a  sufficient  supply  of  potatoes  and  hogs  for  the  ship. 
We  visited  them  on  the  peninsula  every  day  fora  week, 
for  the  pnrpose  of  trade.  We  at  last  obtained  the  de- 
sired supply  for  which  we  gave  them  ten  muskets  and 
some  powder  and  balls.  The  tribe  obtained  100  musk- 
ets in  trading  with  the  several  ships.  These  they  put  in- 
to the  hands  of  their  slaves  and  friends,  who  enlisted 
with  them  from  the  smaller  neighboring  tribes.  They 
now  numbered  500  warriors,  fully  equipped  and  ready  to 
fight,  a  service  inVvhich  they  greatly  delighted.  In  ad- 
dition to  this,  they  were  in  daily  expectation  of  200 
armed  men  from  Succanna  to  strengthen  their  forces. 

Ten  days  after  the  departure  of  the  Kivakivians  from 
Crorica,  the  Whorowraians,  who  had  been  as  far  as 
North  Cape,  enlisting  the  tribes  in  their  favor,  appeared 
in  sight  and  passed  by  the  ships  with  100  war  canoes 
carrying  abont  1,500  men,  who  at  the  time  of  passing 
us  were  engaged  in  singing  a  terrific  war-song,  the  very 
sound  ol  which,  it  being  being  perfectly  calm,  reverbera- 
ted and  echoed  around  the  bay  from  hill  to  dale. 

After  the  tribe  had  passed  us,  I  observed  the  boats  of 
the  Missionatie?,  speedily  proceeding  up  the  river  among 
the  canoes.  They  were  followed  by  several  hoats  from 
the  ships,  bearing  their  respective  captains  and  other  of- 
ficers, who  were  desirous  of  throwing  in  their  influence 
to  bring  the  unprofitable  war  to  an  amicable  conclusion. 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  215 

We  proceeded  up  the  river,  and  after  rowing  hard,  an 
hour,  came  abreast  of  the  Whorovvrarian  fleet  of  canoes, 
which  were  brought  to  a  stand,  on  seeing  the  Kivakivi- 
ans  in  their  cominanding^and  impregnable  position,  ex- 
hibiting a  bold  and  fearless  front  and  seemingly  tearing 
up  the  very  ground  with  their  war-dance  and  making 
ing  the  air  ring  with  their  terrific  war-songs,  firing  off 
at  the  same  time  500  muskets  in  defiance  to  their  en- 
emies. 

The  Whorowrarians,  notwithstanding  their  numbers 
exceeded  those  of  their  enemies,  three  to  one,  dared  not 
approach  them.  While  the  two  comending  tribes  were 
thus  situated,  the  missionaries  and  the  captains  of  the 
several  ships  were  endeavoring  to  influence  the  chiefs  to 
make  an  honorable  adjustment  of  their  difficulties.  They 
finally  succeeded  in  obtaining  the  Whorowrarians  and  Te- 
tories,  providing  that  the  Kivakivians  would  permit  them 
to  land  on  the  peninsula  to  make  peace  in  the  usual  way 
by  dancing  and  singing.  To  this  the  Kivakivians  object- 
ed, mistrusting  their  treacherous  designs.  They  proposed 
that  the  cbiefs  only  should  land  to  make  peace  ;  to 
which  proposition  Whorowrorah  reluctantly  complied. 
Accordingly,  we  took  the  chiefs  into  our  boats  and  land- 
ed them  on  the  peninsula,  where,  after  a  few  hours, 
they  and  the  missionaries  succeeded  in  making  another 
treaty  of  peace.  In  concluding  the  peace,  Whorowrorah 
and  Tetory  insisted  on  a  right  to  a  part  of  the  Crorica 
beach,  as  a  permanent  trading  residence.  Kivakiva  and 
Bumaray  would  not  concede  to  their  unreasonable  de- 
mands to  any  part  of  their  lands  ;  adding,  that  if  they 
dared  to  take  up  their  residence  on  any  part  of  it,  they 
would  drive  them  off,  as  soon  as  their  re-inforcement 
should  arrive  from  Sticaana  ;  and  in  this  manner  the 
peace  was  concluded  and  rested  at  our  departure  from 
New  Zealand.  This  short  war  between  these  two  pow- 
erful tribes,  is  one  which  had  no  parallel  in  the  history 
of  New  Zealand,  it  being  the  first  after  the  introduction 
of  fire-arms  into  that  island. 

Among  the  actors  in  this  interesting  scene,  those  who 
in  my  judgment  took  the  most  conspicuous  and  danger- 
ous part,  were  the  missionaries,  for  which  they  highly 


216  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

deserve  the  most  cordial  commendation  of  the  philan- 
thropic and  civilized  world. 

The  general  appearance  of  the  island  of  New  Zea- 
land is  mountainous,  especially  on  the  sea-coast,  but  in 
the  interior  the  land  is  more  diversified  into  dales  and 
globular  hills,  covered  with  rich  soil  capable  of  cultiva- 
tion. The  island  produces  a  variety  and  abundance  of 
heavy  timber,  which  the  natives  convert  into  the  Inrgest 
war-canoes  ever  known,  which  carry  each  from  50  to 
100  men. 

New  Zealand  enjoys  a  temperate  climate.  This  is 
evident  from  the  fact  that  it  produces  the  best  of  pota- 
toes, sweet-potatoes,  corn,  and  all  kinds  of  sauce,  which 
grow  spontaneously. 

Since  our  visit  there,  the  British  have  planted  a  colo- 
ny on  the  island,  by  which  means  the  beach  and  valley 
of  ancient  Crorica  has  been  converted  into  a  modern 
flourishing  town  of  the  English  stamp. 

Having  been  at  Crorica  six  weeks  refitting  the  ship, 
and  she"  being  now  ready  for  sea,  with  jovial  hearts,  we 
weighed  anchor  and  made  sail  on  -our  trusty  bark  for  En- 
gland, leaving  this  pleasant  isle  and  its  interesting  scenes 
behind  us  and  steered  our  course  for  Cape  Horn,  which 
we  made,  on  our  passage  round  it.  After  a  passage  of 
14  weeks  we  arrived  in  the  English  channel,  having 
gained  one  day  in  time  in  our  circumnavigation  of  the 
globe. 

In  a  few  days  we  arrived  in  London,'  to  the  joy  and 
rejoicing  of  relatives  and  friends,  after  an  absence  of  33 
months.  In  the  course  of  a  few  weeks,  the  oil  was  sold, 
of  which  for  rny  share  I  received  £-75  ;  with  a  part  of 
which  I  decently  clothed  myself,  and  with  the  remainder 
1  set  up  a  small  shop,  thinking  to  gain  a  subsistence,  but 
not  possessing  adequate  knowledge  for  a  business  life,  I 
soon  failed,  and  was  under  the  necessity  of  casting  my  lot 
again  upon  the  trackless  and  tempestuous  ocean  for  my 
support. 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  217 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Departure  from  London  ;  unfavorable  passage  ;  the  vessel  springs 
a  leak  500  strokes  per  hour ;  arrival  at  Delagoa  bay  ;  trading 
with  the  natives  ;  the  crew  take  the  Delagoa  fever  ;  gale  of  wind: 
exposure  of  the  boats  to  the  gale  ;  loss  of  one  boat  and  safety  of 
the  other ;  continuation  of  the  gale ;  loss  of  the  vessel  on  the 
sandy  coast;  subsidence  of  the  gale;  landing  of  the  boat's  crew  : 
travels  and  arrives  at  the  wreck;  death  of  the  captain  and  sev- 
eral of  the  crew  ;  the  property  is  taken  out  of  the  vessel  and  put 
in  a  tent ;  the  tent  surrounded  by  hundreds  of  armed  natives, 
who  keep  pillaging  its  contents  ;  outrageousness  of  the  natives  ; 
the  natives  seize  the  property ;  retreat  from  the  tent  to  (he  Mar- 
tha's wreck  ;  ihe  author  is  attacked  by  the  fever  ;  continuation 
and  sufferings  on  the  wreck  ;  deliverance  from  the  wreck  ;  vis- 
ited by  the  king;  ornaments  of  the  king  and  his  nobles  ;  ships 
on  board  the  Bremen  ;  whaling  and  sufferings  in  the  bay  ;  Por- 
tuguese colony  and  their  progress  in  civilization ;  departure  of 
the  ship  ;  arrives  on  her  cruising  grounds  ;  a  calamity  overtakes 
the  auihor  which  nearly  terminates  his  existence  ;  unreasonable 
and  dangerous  requisitions  of  duty  by  the  captain  ;  unparalleled 
sufferings  of  the  author ;  recovery  of  his  health  ;  the  author's 
mind  is  called  to  attend  to  the  future  prosperity  of  his  soul  ;  ar- 
rival at  St.  Helena ;  arrival  and  sufferings  in  New  Bedford  ;  de- 
prived of  his  just  dues  ;  manner  of  killing  whales  ;  convinced  of 
wrong  religious  views  ;  experiences  religion  ;  call  to  preach  the 
gospel  ;  trials  of  his  mind  ;  unfolds  the  state  of  his  mind  to  sev 
eral  of  the  brethren  ;  introduction  to  Elder  Himes;  encourage- 
ment; enters  the  institutional  Beverly  to  study  for  the  minis- 
try ;  falls  in  arrears  and  is  compelled  through  poverty  to  relin- 
quish his  studies  ;  attempts  to  resume  his  studies  ;  he  is  taken 
ill  with  a  lung  fever  ;  cessation  of  the  institution. 

THIRTEENTH    VOYAGE. 

In  1831,  having  obtained  a  vessel  going  on  a  whaling 
voyage  on   the  east  coast  of  Africa,  then  considered  a 
good  place   for  whales.     I  sailed  in  full  anticipation  of 
making  a  short  and  prosperous  voyage. 
28 


218  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

Our  passage,  until  after  crossing  the  equator,  was  fa- 
vorable, but  on  proceeding  into  higher  latitudes,  the 
winds  became  unfavorable,  and  the  vessel  being  a  re- 
markable dull  sailer,  was  driven  on  the  Brazil  coast.  She 
now  sprang  a  leak  500  strokes  per  hour,  which  cast  a 
veil  over  our  future  prospects,  and  fore-warned  us  of  her 
destruction,  and  our  disappointments  and  sufferings.  At 
last,  after  the  lapse  of  five  months,  we  arrived  at-Dela- 
goa  bay  on  the  east  coast  of  Africa. 

The  first  object  which  we  had  in  view,  subsequent  to 
our  arrival,  was  the  stopping  of  the  vessel's  leak.  To 
accomplish  this,  we  took  her  to  the  safe  and  beautiful 
harbor  of  St.  Mary,  where,  after  performing  two  week's 
faithful  labor,  we  accomplished  our  task.  We  then  pro- 
ceeded to  Cow  bay,  where  we  came  to  an  anchor  to 
await  the  whale  season,  which  had  not  as  yet  commenced. 
During  the  intermission  our  captain  visited  the  natives  for 
the  purpose  of  trading  with  them  for  Ivory.  In  this  he  was 
abundantly  successful,  having  obtained  several  hundreds 
of  sea-horses'  teeth  from  them.  But  it  would  have  been 
better  for  him  and  us  if  he  had  not  undertaken  this  busi- 
ness, which  subsequently  proved  to  be  the  cause  of  the 
total  loss  of  the  vessel  and  half  the  crew.  Our  captain 
and  four  men,  who  had  been  engaged  in  trading  with  the 
natives,  in  consequence  of  their  exposure  to  the  night 
dews,  were  taken  ill  with  the  Delagoa  fever.  The  pro- 
gress of  the  disease  was  so  rapid,  having  no  medical  aid 
to  arrest  it,  that  in  four  days  one  of  them  paid  the  trib- 
ute to  nature. 

About  this  time  we  were  expecting  the  whales  to  set 
into  the  bay,  and  we,  being  anxious  to  get  in  shore  be- 
fore the  other  ships'  boats,  left  our  vessel  at  three  o'clock 
in  the  morning,  the  distance  being  seven  miles. 

In  the  fore-part  of  the  night  it  had  been  blowing  a 
strong  wind  from  the  south,  but  after  midnight  the  wind 
had  abated  considerably,  which  had  led  us  to  expect 
that  we  should  be  favored  with  a  calm,  beautiful  day  ; 
but  in  this  we  were  disappointed.  At  break  of  day  we 
ascertained  that  we  were  close  in  shore,  and  ten  miles 
to  the  leeward  of  the  ships,  which  were  lying  at  anchor 


OF    THOMAS     W.    SMITH.  219 

at  Cow  bay.  As  the  sun  rose  it  exhibited  indications 
of  the  approaching  storm.  In  an  hour  so  great  was  the 
progress  of  a  storm,  that  it  was  deemed  advisable  to 
return  to  our  vessel,  the  hight  of  the  wind  and  sea  ren- 
dering it  impossible  for  us  to  have  killed  a  whale  had 
we  fastened  to  one. 

We  rowe^  toward  the  vessel  with  all  possible  energy 
against  a  very  high  sea  and  wind  which  was  rising  rapid- 
ly on  us,  until  we  approached  within  two  miles,  and  not 
being  able  to  proceed  any  farther,  in  consequence  of  the 
raging  wind  and  sea,  we  came  to  anchor  at  no  great  dis- 
tance from  the  bark  Bremen,  of  New  Bedford,  which 
had  lost  one  of  her  anchors  and  had  driven  toward 
us.  We  laid  at  anchor,  the  spray  flying  continually 
over  us,  until,  4  P.  M.,  at  which  time  the  tide  had  be- 
come favorable  for  us,  and  it  was  thought  that  we  might 
possibly  gain  the  ship  by  extraordinary  exertions,  as  the 
change  of  tide  had  smoothed  the  sea  considerably.  Ac- 
cordingly we  took  up  our  anchor  and  endeavored  to  the 
uttermost  in  our  power  to  gain  the  vessel,  but  in  vain. 
After  rowing  nearl/  three  hours,  during  which  time  we 
had  encountered  the  fury  of  the  gale,  sometimes  gaining 
and  at  others  losing  ground.  Finding  that  we  had 
gained  only  a  quarter  of  a  mile  during  our  exertions, 
and  being  aware  that  the  gale  was  now  increasing  in  pro- 
portion as  the  night  approached,  and  having  no  prospect 
before  us  if  we  continued  in  the  boat  but  a  watery  grave, 
we  concluded  to  make  the  best  of  our  way,  if  possible, 
towards  the  bark  Bremen,  to  obtain  safety  for  the  night. 
Accordingly  we  rowed  toward  the  vessel,  keeping  the 
sea  on  our  bow  for  fear  of  being  upset  by  it,  and  finally 
succeeded  in  getting  astern  of  her  and  fastening  to  a 
buoy  which  had  been  let  down  from  the  ship  for  the 
purpose  of  drawing  our  boat  up,  in  order  to  gain  the 
ship's  deck.  Having  hauled  our  boat  close  to  the  stern, 
we  were  taken  out  by  means  of  ropes  fastened  to  us. 
In  consequence  of  not  being  able  to  take  our  boat  up 
she  was  secured  with  two  tow  lines  astern  of  the  ship, 
but  no  one  being  on  board  of  her  to  keep  her  head  to 
the  sea,  she  was  upset  in  ten  minutes  after. 

On  gaining  the  ship's  deck  we  were  kindly  received 


220  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

and  handsomely  treated  during  our  stay  on  board  by  the 
benevolent  Americans. 

The  gale  continued  to  rage  during  the  night  with  una- 
bated fury.  On  the  following  day  about  10  A.  M.  the 
fog  cleared  away  lor  a  short  time,  which  gave  us  an  op- 
portunity of  counting  the  vessels  in  the  harbor,  by  which 
we  ascertained  that  our  vessel  and  the  ship  Martha  of 
New  Bedford  were  missing  from  the  harbor.  There 
was  not  the  least  doubt  entertained  by  us,  of  their  being 
a  total  loss,  as  it  was  impossible  for  them  to  have  gone 
to  sea  clear  of  the  lee  shore,  with  the  wind  as  it  was. 
Our  greatest  fears  were  that  they  might  have  gone 
on  shore  in  King  Majaker's  dominions,  and  if  this  had 
proved  to  be  the  case,  their  loss  of  life  was  inevitable,  as 
they  undoubtedly  would  have  been  roasted  and  devoured 
by  the  Majakians,  who  are  cannibals. 

The  gale  continued  to  rage  for  three  days,  and  on  the 
fifth  we  succeeded  in  landing  on  the  shore,  abreast  of 
the  shipping,  to  obtain  information  from  the  natives  con- 
cerning our  vessel.  We  had  one  native  with  us,  who 
had  been  shipped  to  assist  during  the  whaling  season  at 
this  place.  He  could  speak  the  English  language  toler- 
ably well,  as  he  had  been  to  England  in  an  English  ship. 
Jacky,  this  being  his  name,  was  to  conduct  us  along 
shore,  where  we  could  fall  in  with  some  of  the  natives 
from  whom  we  might  obtain  the  desired  information. 
Accordingly  after  having  hauled  up  our  boat  we  proceed- 
ed along  shore  and  after  having  walked  about  three  miles 
we  met  two  natives,  from  whom,  through  the  medium 
of  Jack,  our  interpreter,  we  ascertained  that  there  were 
two  Engar-wallers,  meaning  two  ships,  on  the  shore  at 
a  distance  of  21  miles  from  us.  We  proceeded  to  the 
melancholy  spot,  where  on  our  arrival  we  beheld  our 
unfortunate  little  bark  high  and  dry,  upon  the  sand,  and 
at  half  a  mile's  distance  from  her  lodged  the  beautiful 
ship  Martha,  stern  on.  At  our  arrival  at  the  wreck,  we 
met  the  other  boat's  crew,  who  had  been  in  company 
with  us  on  the  first  morning  of  the  gale,  but  they  not 
being  able  to  keep  up  with  us,  we  lost  sight  of  them 
about  noon  and  knew  not  what  had  become  of  them. 
They  informed  us  that  finding  it  impossible  to  brave  the 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  221 

gale,  they  steered  the  boat  to  the  shore  as  their  only 
means  of  safety,  but  on  their  landing,  they  met  with  a 
great  disaster  in  the  loss  of  one  man  and  the  boat,  and 
had  it  not  been  for  the  assistance  rendered  them  by  the 
natives,  they  must  have  all  been  inevitably  lost.  They 
also  informed  us  of  the  much  lamented  death  of  our  cap- 
tain and  two  boat-steerers,  who  had  been  sick  with  the 
fever.  We  were  then  led  to  the  tent  they  had  erected 
behind  a  small  sand  hill,  a  short  distance  from  the  wreck, 
and  their  we  met  those  who  were  left  in  charge  of  the 
vessel  when  we  left  her.  We  then  made  every  possible 
inquiry  of  them,  to  ascertain  the  cause  of  the  vessel's 
being  lost,  but  received  no  satisfactory  information  from 
any  of  them.  The  fact  of  the  matter  has  always  been 
obvious  to  my  mind,  and  that  is,  there  weie  7  persons 
on  board  when  we  left ;  out  of  these  there  were  but  three 
capable  of  performing  duty  ;  the  boy,  cook  and  carpen- 
ter ;  the  others  were  unable  to  get  out  of  their  beds; 
and  this  brings  me  to  the  original  cause  of  the  loss 
of  the  vessel.  It  was  in  consequence  of  the  sick- 
ness on  board.  Had  our  captain  and  men  been  well,  it 
would  not  have  occurred,  but  as  it  was,  these  men  left 
in  charge  of  her,  not  being  aware  of  their  danger,  went 
to  sleep  on  their  watch,  and  while  thus  buried  in  slum- 
ber, the  vessel  parted  her  cable  and  was  permitted  to  go 
on  shore  with  a  good  anchor  on  her  bow,  all  ready  to  be 
dropped.  Having  arrived  at  the  lent,  our  mate  imme- 
diately took  charge  of  it  and  its  contents  ;  meantime  he 
ordered  me  to  get  the  remainder  of  the  things  out  of  the 
cabin  and  run  and  bring  them  to  the  tent  for  safety,  as 
we  then  thought.  This  task  I  accomplished  by  the  as- 
sistance of  some  of  the  most  thoughtful  and  temperate 
of  the  crew,  as  the  most  of  them  having  access  to  six 
barrels  of  Jama;ca  rum,  were  now  diunk.  We  had  in 
our  tent  several  thousand  dollars  worth  of  property, 
which  we  were  desirous  of  preserving  for  the  benefit  of 
the  owners.  We  were  in  hourly  expectation  of  the  ar- 
rival of  the  boats  from  the  ship  Alexandria,  which  be- 
longed to  the  same  owners,  to  take  the  properly  off  and 
deliver  us  from  our  fearful  anxiety. 

Finding  ourselves  continually   surrounded  by  two  or 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

three  hundred  natives,  armed  with  spears  and  clubs,  who 
were  pilfering  the  property  at  every  opportunity,  we 
made  application  to  King  Mihier  to  protect  us  and  the 
property  from  the  intrusion  of  his  subjects,  who  were 
hourly  becoming  more  bold  and  outrageous.  On  the 
day  following  the  application  we  were  visited  by  a  num- 
ber of  high  officers  from  the  king,  who  brought  with 
them  an  inferior  sacaratan,  to  stay  with  us  to  keep  the 
natives  out  of  the  tent  and  from  embezzling  the  property. 
Accordingly  he  took  his  place  in  the  tent  with  the  mate 
and  myself,  the  only  two  out  of  the  crew  who  stayed  to 
take  care  of  the  tent  and  its  contents.  The  natives  dai- 
ly became  more  numerous  and  outrageous  in  their  pro- 
ceedings, and  the  tent  was  from  time  to  time  assailed  by 
them  without  any  regard  to  the  sacaratan,  who  only 
made  a  sham  attempt  to  prevent  them,  and  frequently, 
instead  of  preventing  their  intrusion,  assisted  them  in 
accomplishing  their  dishonest  designs. 

We  had  now  passed  away  five  anxious  days  and  sleep- 
less nights,  nnd  being  apprehensive  of  the  safety  of  the 
property,  we  deemed  it  advisable  to  have  it  conveyed 
on  board  of  the  Martha's  wreck,  as  the  boats  from  the 
ship  had  not  as  yet  come  to  our  assistance,  and  the  na- 
tives had  become  drunk  and  quarrelsome  among  them- 
selves, in  consequence  of  having  taken  a  barrel  of  rurn 
out  of  the  brig's  wreck.  Accordingly  we  first  commen- 
ced by  taking  some  of  our  own  things,  in  which  we  suc- 
ceeded without  being  interrupted.  On  our  return  we 
found  the  sacaratan  missing  and  nearly  all  the  property 
gone.  Finding  that  our  chests  and  beds  were  gone,  two 
of  us  took  the  only  remaining  bale  of  clothes  out  of  five, 
worth  from  5  to  $600;  but  the  natives,  seeing  that 
they  were  going  to  be  deprived  of  their  remaining  booty, 
soon  compelled  us  to  relinquish  it,  claiming  it  and  all  on 
the  beach  as  the  property  of  King  Mihier.  They  then 
abused  us  through  the  medium  of  Jack,  who  said  that 
"the  English  were  no  good,"  and  that  ''the  Mihierians 
would  kill  us  if  we  did  not  soon  leave  the  shore."  In 
a  few  minutes  after,  they  began  to  quarrel  about  the 
property  they  had  stolen  from  us  and  we  therefore  thought 
it  prudent  for  our  personal  safety  to  get  on  hoard  of 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  223 

the  Martha,  as  she  stood  erect  and  being  high,  the  na- 
tives could  not  get  on  board  of  her. 

Here  we  felt  safe  from  any  intended  aggression  from 
the  natives,  who,  notwithstanding  their  pretended  friend- 
ship, evidently  would  not  have  hesitated  to  have  ta- 
ken our  lives  for  the  sake  of  gain. 

During  the  six  weeks  that  I  was  on  board  the  wreck, 
i  was  afflicted  with  a  slow  fever,  that  I  had  taken  while 
on  shore  from  the  offensive  smell  of  the  natives,  which 
was  so  intolerable  that  it  fairly  made  rne  sick  at  the 
stomach. 

While  on  the  wreck  I  suffered  considerable  by  sick- 
ness, for  the  want  of  assistance  and  a  suitable  place  to 
lie  on  ;  as  I  was  under  the  necess;ty  of  lying  on  a  large 
rope  cable  with  my  clothes  on,  instead  of  a  bed. 

While  on  the  wreck  we  were  honored  with  a  visit 
from  King  Mihier  and  his  two  sons,  who  came  to  view 
the  ship,  as  she  rested  on  the  sand.  On  his  arrival,  his 
body  guard  formed  themselves  into  a  large  ring  and  sat 
on  the  sand,  while  his  majesty,  with  a  few  of  his  nobles 
occupied  the  central  position  of  the  ring.  After  his  sa- 
caratans  had  prepared  the  steps  for  his  reception,  his 
majesty  came  on  board  and  apparently  was  astonished 
at  the  size  of  the  ship.  He  was  an  elderly  man,  of  much 
lighter  complexion  than  any  of  his  subjects.  His  naked 
limbs  were  ornamented, from  his  wrists  to  his  elbows  and 
from  his  ankles  to  the  middle  of  his  leg,  with  large  brass 
rings  handsomely  polished.  The  whole  of  his  fingers 
were  also  ornamented  with  rings,  and  his  neck  with  four. 
Many  of  his  suit  were  also  decorated  in  the  same  manner. 

Having,  in  some  measure,  recovered  from  the  fever,  I 
shipped  on  boaid  the  bark  Bremen,  of  New  Bedford, 
b«.'iii'f  desirous  of  visiting  the  United  States  before  my 
return  home.  In  her,  while  in  the  bay,  we  suffered 
considerably  from  fatigue,  occasioned  by  being  out  at 
night  with  dead  whales  and  rowing  daily  at  such  a  great 
distance  from  the  ship  in  search  of  them. 

After  the  whale  season  had  expired,  the  ship  proceed- 
ed to  English  river  ;  and  after  having  supplied  the  ship 
with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  water  there,  we  proceeded  to 


224  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

the  whaling   grounds  to  the  westward  of  the    Cape   of 
of  Good  Hope. 

The  land  along  the  east  side  of  the  Delagoa  bay,  as 
far  as  King  Mihier's  and  Majaker's  dominions,  is  very 
low  and  is  composed  of  white  sand,  along  the  sea  coast, 
covered  with  small  hushes. 

At  the  entrance  of  English  river,  which  is  to  the  north, 
is  a  small  Portuguese  colony,  which  has  been  in  exist- 
ence over  30  years,  but  it  has  made  little  progress  in 
civilizing  the  natives,  as  its  influence  does  not  extend  be- 
yond King  Mihier's  dominions.  The  colony  is  a  well 
known  mart  for  the  nefarious  African  slave  trade  which 
has  been  extensively  carried  on  ever  since  its  foundation, 
and  from  all  the  information  we  were  enabled  to  collect, 
it  was  founded  with  that  intent. 

St.  Mary's,  which  is  opposite  to  English  river,  is 
mountainous.  Tt  has  a  king  and  a  great  number  of  in- 
habitants, who  live  at  their  ease,  and  shun  the  very 
sight  of  a  Portuguese  vessel,  knowing  them  to  be  slav- 
ers. They  are  friendly  and  honest,  and  strangers  may 
travel  all  over  the  island  without  being  molested. 

Having  arrived  on  our  cruising  grounds,  we  continued 
cruising  for  three  or  four  months,  during  which  time  we 
took  in  6  or  700  barrels  of  whale  oil,  after  which,  the 
ship's  lime  being  expired,  she  proceeded  on  her  passage 
to  St.  Helena  where  she  arrived  and  came  to  anchor  for 
a  few  days  to  refresh  the  crew. 

While  cruising  on  the  whaling  ground,  I  was  overta- 
ken by  the  greatest  calamity  that  ever  befell  me  during 
the  whole  period  of  my  life.  It  came  within  a  hair's 
breadth'of  terminating  my  existence.  The  misfortune 
occurred  in  ignorance  and  obstinacy  of  the  captain,  who 
who  against  reason  and  common  sense,  insisted  on  having 
a  200  gallon  cask  of  oil  rolled  over  to  the  weather  side  of 
the  ship,  without  first  securing  it  in  a  proper  manner  to 
avoid  accidents,  which  frequently  occur  for  the  want  of 
precaution.  The  ship  was  under  double-reef  topsail, 
rolling  heavily,  and  being  trying  out  at  the  time,  the 
spray  flying  on  board,  which  mixed  with  grease  arid 
water  on  deck,  rendered  it  difficult  for  a  person  to  go  from 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  225 

one  part  of  the  ship  to  the  other  in  safety.  While  thus 
laboring  under  these  disadvantages,  the  unreasonable 
man  insisted  in  having  his  own  way,  notwithstanding  the 
expostulations  of  the  men.  The  cask  was  taken  from 
the  lee-side  of  the  try-works,  according  to  his  wish  and 
rolled  nearly  to  the  weather-side  of  the  ship  ;  the  ship 
rolled  to  the  leeward  which  caused  the  cask  to  slide 
back  and  the  men,  not  being  able  to  keep  their  feet,  slid 
back  also.  Three  unsuccessful  attempts  were  made  ; 
and  he,  not  being  satisfied  with  having  exposed  our  lives 
thus  far,  ordered  the  fourth  attempt  to  be  made,  in 
which  we  all  fell.  Seeing  the*  cask  was  near  killing 
three  or  four  of  us,  he  exclaimed  ;  "  if  it  is  likely  to 
come  over  you,  let  it  go  overboard  !"  This  was  enough 
to  say  to  the  green  hands,  who  immediately  let  go  the 
cask,  now  near  the  ship's  side,  to  be  supported  by  two 
of  us  who  happened  to  be  in  the  middle.  Finding  our- 
selves deserted,  we  endeavored  to  make  our  escape  al- 
so ;  but  in  attempting  this,  my  ieet  slipped  on  the 
grease,  and  I  fell  between  the  cask  and  a  timber  head, 
against  which  1  was  nearly  crushed  to  death.  The  breath 
left  my  body,  with  a  moan,  and  did  not  return  until  a 
few  seconds  had  transpired.  The  captain  now  cried 
out  ;  u  pull  him  out  !"  as  though  by  this,  he  was  going 
to  recompense  the  injury  which  had  been  caused  by 
his  agency.  The  men,  who  stood  by  aghast,  immediate- 
ly obeyed  the  mandate,  and  I  was  taken  out  apparently 
lifeless  and  laid  on  the  after  hatch.  Soon  my  speech  fee- 
bly returned,  and  I  requested  the  captain  to  bleed  me 
immediately.  I  was  then  taken  below  and  bled,  after 
which  I  was  hud  on  a  bed  which  belonged  to  one  of 
the  men,  not  having  one  of  my  own.  I  had  been  under 
the  necessity  of  sleeping  on  the  sailors'  chests  for  14 
weeks  previous  to  the  accident.  That  night,  by  the 
captain's  request,  a  young  man  of  sympathetic  feelings, 
watched  over  me,  expecting  I  should  depart  this  life  be- 
fore the  dawn  of  another  sun.  In  consequence  of  the 
great  injuries  on  several  parts  of  my  body  1  was 
confined  three  months  to  my  bed,  seven  weeks  of  which  I 
laid  on  my  back,  not  being  able  to  lie  in  any  other  po- 
sition. I  suffered  the  most  excruciating  pains  that  hu- 
29 


226  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

man  language  can  express.  These  injuries  were  inflict- 
ed on  my  left  haunch-bone,  which  is  yet  lame,  my  right 
shoulder-blade,  which  is  out  of  place  with  my  collar  and 
shoulder  bones  ;  the  lower  part  of  my  neck  and  lungs  were 
injured,  and  three  ribs  broken.  The  medical  assistance 
which  I  received  during  my  illness  to  allay  my  pains,  con- 
sisted of  bleeding  onl)  by  my  request,  and  being  bathed 
with  camphor  twice  ;  such  was  the  humanity  of  our  cap- 
tain and  officers !  My  recovery,  laboring  under  so  many 
hindrances,  was  considered  by  all  very  doubtful ;  and 
now,  to  me3  seems  almost  a  miracle. 

While  thus  afflicted  my  mind  was  called  to  reflect  on 
my  past  life,  and  the  prospect  of  the  future.  It  had  been 
previously  impressed  with  this  subject,  while  lingering 
with  the  slow  fever  on  the  wreck.  1  then  promised  God 
that  if  he  would  spare  me,  J  would  serve  him  the  re- 
mainder of  my  days.  I  now  renewed  my  promise,  and 
since  that  time  I  frequently  read  my  bible,  and  tried  to 
pray,  but  notwithstanding  my  sincerity  I  was  deficient  of 
that  spirit  which  characterizes  the  followers  of  the  meek 
and  lowly  Son  of  God. 

The  ship,  having  sufficiently  recruited,  took  her  de- 
parture from  the  island  of  St.  Helena  for  the  United 
States,  and  after  a  favorable  passage  arrived  at  New 
Bedford  on  the  7th  of  March,  18-32.  The  crew  went 
to  their  respective  homes  or  boarding  houses,  to  receive 
the  congratulations  of  their  relatives  and  friends,  after 
an  absence  of  14  months  from  their  native  land. 

It  now  became  the  subject  of  inquiry  with  me.  how 
was  I  to  proceed,  and  which  would  be  the  most  suitable 
course  to  pursue,  as  I  was  lame,  destitute,  and  a  stranger 
in  a  strange  land,  and  no  one  seemed  to  be  willing  to  be 
burdened  with  me  or  my  afflictions,  seeing  no  future 
prospect  of  reward,  as  1  was  unable  to  labor. 

Being  situated  in  this  deplorable  condition,  I  was  un- 
der the  necessity  of  taking  the  ship's  forecastle  as  my 
boarding  house  until  the  owners  should  settle  with  the 
crew,  when  I  expected  to  have  something  coming  to  me 
as  a  reward  for  the  hard  labor  I  had  performed  on  board 
of  her  in  assisting  to  take  in  400  barrels  of  oil  previous 
lo  the  accident  happening  to  me. 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  227 

As  I  had  no  place  to  visit,  I  employed  my  time  in 
walking  the  streets  and  viewing  the  town,  and  at  night  I 
would  return  to  the  ship  and  make  my  meal  of  some 
very  small  pieces  of  hard  bread,  dirty  and  greasy,  and 
fit  only  for  hogs.  In  this  manner  I  lived  nine  days  on 
bad  bread  and  cold  water.  By  this  time  the  ship  being 
discharged,  I  was  under  the  necessity  of  providing  my- 
self with  a  boarding  house,  but  how  to  get  one,  in  the 
condition  that  I  was  in,  I  did  not  know.  At  last  I  met 
with  an  Englishman,  an  old  acquaintance  of  mine,  and 
by  his  assistance  I  succeeded  in  obtaining  a  boarding 
place. 

I  took  the  few  remaining  things  out  of  the  vessel, 
which  I  had  left  when  I  was  wrecked.  I  met  the  cap- 
tain of  the  ship,  who  informed  me  that  the  owneis  were 
not  willing  to  pay  me  any  thing  for  my  share  of  the  oil, 
and  that  they  had  compelled  him  to  go  to  the  custom 
house  and  sign  some  papers,  to  testify  that  I  was  a  pas- 
senger on  board,  and  had  worked  my  passage  in  the  ship. 
On  being  thus  informed,  I  was  surprised  that  a  man  of 
his  standing  in  society,  claiming  to  be  an  honest  man, 
should  debase  himself  so  low  as  to  comply  with  the  re- 
quest of  the  owners,  if  such  request  was  made,  for  the 
purpose  of  defrauding  a  poor,  destitute  sailor,  as  I  was, 
of  my  just  dues,  i  did  not  say  much  to  him,  being 
aware  that  I  could  not  remedy  the  evil  which  had  been 
done. 

Being  thus  deprived  of  the  expected  trifle,  all  my  de- 
pendence to  defray  my  expenses  until  I  could  go  to 
Boston,  where  I  intended  logo  to  obtain  assistance  from 
the  English  Consul,  I  was  compelled,  through  necessity, 
to  go  to  work  in  my  feeble  condition,  in  consequence  of 
which  I  took  a  severe  cold,  which  settled  on  my  lungs 
and  laid  the  foundation  for  a  consumptive  disease  in  my 
system. 

As  I  have  led  the  reader  by  my  side,  exhibiting  to  him 
the  various  scenes  of  my  past  life,  with  which  I  trust 
he  has  been  interested,  and  as  I  am  now  about  closing 
the  narrative  of  my  voyages,  I  have  deemed  it  advisable 
to  give  a  concise  description  of  the  mode  of  taking  whales. 

As  soon  as  the   ship  arrives  on  her  whaling  ground, 


228  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

three  men  are  constantly  stationed  at  the  mast's  head  to 
look  out  for  whales.  As  soon  as  the  whales  are  discov- 
ered at  a  distance  blowing  the  water  several  feet  above 
the  surface  of  the  sea,  the  men  at  the  mast's  head  im- 
mediately cry  out:  "  there  she  blows!"  This  well 
known  sound  electrifies  the  whole  ship's  crew.  Every 
thing  of  less  consequence  is  instantly  dropped,  and  the 
hands  are  engaged  in  making  preparations  for  lowering 
the  boats  at  a  suitable  time.  As  soon  as  the  whales  are 
sufficiently  near,  the  boats  are  lowered  and  fastened  to 
them,  wiih  a  harpoon  to  which  is  fastened  250  fathoms 
of  tow  line,  which  is  coiled  into  two  large  tubs,  carried 
in  the  boat  for  the  purpose.  This  line  is  let  out  or  ta- 
ken in  as  circumstances  may  require. 

I  once  had  the  misfortune  of  beirjg  fastened  to  a  large 
whale  which  sounded  out  four  lines,  and  finally  after  toil- 
ing with  her  half  a  day.  we  cut  from  her  aft^r  sun-down; 
however,  these  cases  are  rare.  At  other  times  1  have 
been  engaged  in  killing  whales  equally  as  large  and  lar- 
ger in  a  short  time  without  letting  20  fathoms  of  line  out 
of  the  boat. 

The  most  expeditious  way  of  killing  a  whale  is  this  : 
as  soon  as  the  boat  is  fastened,  the  whale  feeling  her  inju- 
ry immediately  starts  ahead  or  down  like  a  dart  ;  at  this 
time  she  goes  but  a  very  short  distance,  then  stops  to  cut 
and  thrash  with  her  flooks  and  to  look  out  for  her  enemy. 
The  boat  meanwhile  should  not  slack  out  any  more  line 
than  she  can  possibly  help.  While  the  whale  is  thrash- 
ing, the  boat  should  go  as  near  to  her  as  possible,  to 
embrace  the  first  opportunity  of  lancing  the  whale  before 
she  starts  off.  If  the  head's  man  succeeds  in  doing  this, 
she  will  be  killed  very  easy,  because  the  whale  is  sick- 
ened, but  if  you  fail  of  embracing  the  opportunity  you 
generally  have  trouble  with  her.  I  have  seen  many 
whales  killed  with  only  being  lanced  once,  and  particu- 
larly school  whales,  and  have  been  fastened  to  others 
when  the  sea  has  been  rough,  that  have  taken  the  boat 
like  a  dart  to  windward  for  miles,  during  which  the  crew 
would  be  under  the  necessity  of  holding  themselves  down 
to  the  bottom  of  the  boat  to  prevent  going  overboard, 
the  boat  leaping  over  one  or  two  seas  without  touching 
them  with  the  centre  of  her  bottom, 


OF    THOMAS    W.    SMITH.  229 

By  school  whales,  I  mean  small  ones,  which  traverse 
the  ocean  by  hundreds  and  thousands.  When  a  school  of 
whales  is  discovered  by  the  ship,  it  is  soon  ascertained 
whether  they  are  feeding  or  making  a  passage ;  if  the 
latter,  they  are  then  moving  together  like  a  flock  of  sheep, 
spouting  once  in  about  15  minutes,  but  if  going  swiftly 
they  spout  almost  continually.  If  feeding,  they  are  scat- 
tered six  or  eight  miles  apart,  frequently  changing  their 
direction,  going  slow,  and  when  they  COIIIP  up  to  blow, 
they  lay  on  or  near  the  surface  sometime  and  spout  about 
thirty  times;  this  is  an  indication  that  they  are  perfectly 
undisturbed  on  the  ground.  When  whales  are  thus  sit- 
uated, the  boats  have  a  good  chance,  and  they  fasten  to 
the  first  whale  that  comes  to  hand.  It  is  then  the  duty 
of  the  head's  man  to  let  the  whale  alone  for  some  time, 
until  the  school  is  gathered  around  her.  As  soon  as  the 
whale  is  stuck  to  the  harpoon,  the  school  take  the  alarm, 
and  you  may  see  them  from  the  ship's  mast-head,  at  a 
distance  of  6  or  7  miles  round  the  horizon,  coming, 
heads  out,  to  sympathize  with  their  unfortunate  fellow 
creature,  around  which  they  will  thickly  gather.  When 
the  head's  man  of  the  several  boats;  whose  duty  it  is  to 
keep  round  t'ne  fast  whale  to  wait  for  the  school,  sees 
that  the  school  has  collected,  he  should  si  like  and  drug 
as  many  as  he  can,  as  the  school  will,  after  collecting, 
move  in  a  body  to  escape  their  common  enemy.  By 
drugging  I  mean  a  piece  of  thick  flat  wood,  18  inches 
square,  with  five  fathoms  of  line  fastened  to  it,  which  is 
fastened  to  a  harpoon  thrown  to  the  whale,  to  prevent 
her  speed  and  to  designate  her  from  the  others.  Some- 
times the  boats  of  one  ship  will  drug  ten  whales,  which 
together  with  their  fast  whales  make  perhaps  fourteen. 
The  progress  of  these  fourteen  whales  being  impeded 
exerts  a  great  influence  over  the  school,  which  delays  its 
progress,  and  this  delay  gives  the  boats  still  more  op- 
portunity to  kill  them.  When  the  school  takes  off  im- 
mediately, it  makes  it  more  dangerous  and  difficult  for 
the  boats  to  take  them,  as  in  this  case  the  fast  whale 
often  gets  in  the  centre  of  the  school,  and  there  is  no 
possible  way  of  getting  to  her  in  safety,  while  she  thus 
occupies  that  position,  as  the  whales  keep  so  near  round 


230  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

the  boat,  that  you  may  frequently  touch  them  with 
your  hand,  and  at  times  come  with  their  noddles  quite 
easy  against  the  boat  and  settle  down  without  attempting 
to  injure  you  in  the  least.  At  other  times  the  fast  whale 
will  take  the  boats  through  the  school  with  great  rapidity 
"over  their  backs,  which  makes  it  very  dangerous  as  they 
sometimes  strike  furiously  with  their  flooks  at  the  boat  as 
she  passes.  When  this  is  the  case  the  greater  the  speed 
the  less  is  the  danger. 

It  may  be  imagined  that  the  boats  could  easily  escape 
all  this  danger  by  slacking  off  their  lines.     This  would 
be  inconsistent  with  the  nature  of  whaiing,for  if  they  did 
this  they  would  soon  lose  their  lines  and  their  whales. 
It  is  therefore  indispensable  that  they  hold  on  to  the  line 
and  keep  as  near  to  the  fast  whale  as   possible,  in  order 
to  kill  her  with  the  lance.     After  the  several  boats  have 
killed  their  fast  whales  which  they  raft,  in   order  to  find 
them  again,  they  then  pickup  the  drug  whales  one  after 
another  and  kill  them,  if  they  have  not  previously  been 
killed  by  some  of  the  boats.     It  frequently   occurs  that 
schools  are  brought  to.     When  this  is  the  c  ise,  the  boats 
are  highly  favored  with  the  best  of  chances,  as  they  can 
then  kill  a  great  many  more,  if  they  only  work  wisely 
and  smartly.     1  once   had  the    pleasure  of  taking  eight 
whales  at  one  lowering  with  the  boat  that  I  then  belong- 
ed to;  but  such  cases  are  rare.  At  another  time  I  was  in 
company  with  a  ship  belonging  to  Port   Jackson,  which 
with  three  boats  took  sixteen  whales  out  of  a  school,  and 
one    of  them   bore   no  sign  of  a   wound,  having   been 
drowned  by  the  lines  of  the  boats  with  which  it  got  so  en- 
tangled that  it  deprived  it  of  power  to  rise  to  the  surface 
to  breathe,  which  was  the  occasion  of  its  doath.     After 
the  whales  are  dead,   they  are   taken  along  sfde  of  the 
ship  and  cut  in,  which  is   done  by   cutting   around  her 
body,  commencing  near  the  eye,  and  taking  up  the  end 
of  the  blubber  by  a  purchase  which  is  hove  by  the  wind- 
las  until  it  can  go  no  farther,  and  then  another  purchase 
is  put  to  the  blubber  above  deck  and  the  piece  above  is 
cut  off  and  swings  over  the  main  hatch- way,  and  is  low- 
ered down  into  the  blubber  room,  as  it  is  called. 

Of  the  dangers,  trials  and  amount  of  sufferings  endur- 


OF    THOMAS    W.     SMITH.  231 

ed  by  sailors  engaged  in  this  business,  I  will  not  attempt 
to  describe  ;  they  are  numerous  and  almost  indescribable. 
After  I  had  resided  in  New  Bedford  about  two  years, 
living  as  I  then  thought  in  the  full  enjoyment  of  religion, 
agreeable  to  the  notion  of  the  community  of  English 
people,  my  attention  was  arrested  by  a  great  revival  at 
one  of  the  churches,  which  greatly  attracted  the  atten- 
tion of  the  citizens.  I  was  informed  that  a  discourse 
was  to  be  delivered  on  the  non  scriptural  command  of 
of  infant  baptism,  and  the  impropriety  of  the  practice  ; 
and  as  1  was  a  full  believer  in  the  doctrine,  having  been 
sprinkled  in  my  infancy  after  the  manner  of  the  English 
church,  I  went  to  hear  the  discourse,  to  see  what  the 
preacher  would  muke  of  it.  After  I  had  heard  the 
discourse,  1  became  fully  convinced  of  my  error.  This 
led  me  to  search  the  scriptures  more  strictly  than  I  had 
previously  done  which  labor  eventually  resulted  in  the 
conversion  of  my  heart  to  God. 

On  the  following  evening,  I  went  to  meeting  again. 
It  was  a  crowded  house.  The  discourse  was  preached 
by  Elder  Simon  C lough.  His  text  was  the  following 
words  :  "  Why  stand  ye  here  all  the  day  idle?"  The 
discourse  was  solemn  and  searching,  and  well  calculated 
to  soften  the  strong  heart  and  deeply  impress  the  mind 
of  man  with  a  sense  of  his  duty  to  God.  His  appeal  to 
my  conscience  had  the  desired  effect,  and  from  that 
moment  until  the  day  of  my  conversion,  1  felt  a  burthen 
on  my  mind  that  language  cannot  describe. 

A  few  months  alter  my  conversion,  my  mind  became 
deeply  impressed  with  a  belief  thai  1  was  called  of  God, 
to  preach  the  gospel.  I  expostulated  with  myself  on  the 
propriety  of  my  call  to  the  ministry,  being  illiterate  and 
having  no  means  of  educating  myself  for  the  important 
work.  i  made  it  a  subject  of  daily  prayer, -and  the 
morel  prayed  for  God's  enlightened  spirit  and  guidance, 
the  deeper  I  felt  the  impression.  While  laboring  under 
these  solemn  views,  1  applied  myself  diligently  to  the 
study  of  the  scripture  by  night,  as  I  was  under  the  ne- 
cessity of  laboring  hard  by  day  to  obtain  a  subsistence. 
In  this  state  of  mind  I  lingered  for  seventeen  months,  at 
the  expiration  of  which  1  fortunately  fell  in  with  a  small 
tiact,  which  perfectly  described  the  nature  of  a  call.  It 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 

was  so  applicable  to  my  condition,  that  I  could  not  avoid 
imagining  that  1  had  been  favored  with  it  by  the  spe- 
cial providence  of  God.  I  wrote  a  letter  to  the  pas- 
tor of  the  church,  asking  for  an  explanation  of  the 
nature  of  a  call  to  the  ministry,  and  whether  it  could  be 
possible  for  an  illiterate  person,  to  be  called  of  God  in 
this  enlightened  age  to  that  important  duty.  Sabbath 
after  sabbath  rolled  over  my  head  without  receiving  the 
desired  information,,  from  the  reverend  brother,  in  con- 
sequence of  which  delay  my  mind  became  unusually  de- 
pressed. Being  tried  in  my  mind,  I  visited  my  pastor, 
at  his  residence,  and  sought  the  desired  information,  and 
his  advice  in  the  case.  He  coolly  and  disinterestedly 
said,  that  if  I  thought  that  my  mind  was  impressed  with 
the  duty  of  preaching,  an  education  was  indispenable, 
which  I  might  acquire  in  the  course  of  three  years  at 
the  Christian  Manual  Labor  Academy,  which  was  then 
about  being  established  at  Beverly.  I  then  inquired  of 
him,  if  I  could  not  be  assisted  by  the  church,  in  case  I 
should  not  be  able  to  defray  my  expenses  at  school  by 
the  product  of  my  labors.  He  answered  my  inquiry  in 
an  indirect  manner,  saying  that  there  would  be  no  neces- 
sity for  that;  as  I  should  be  able  to  earn  fifty  cents  per 
day,  after  being  there  awhile,  and  that  would  be  more 
than  sufficient,  as  the  terms  were  reasonable. 

Subsequently  I  was  introduced  by  a  respected  brother, 
the  force  of  whose  sympathy,  I  still  feel  impressed  on  my 
heart,  to  Elder  Hirnes,  of  Boston,  one  of  the  trustees  of 
the  institution,  and  the  principal  operator  in  rearing  it 
up,  To  him  I  unfolded  my  feelings.  He  advised  me 
by  all  means  to  enter  the  institution  immediately,  and 
greatly  encouraged  me  in  my  difficulties.  Agreeably  to 
his  advice,  I  entered  the  institution  and  commenced  my 
studies,  and  my  daily  manual  labor,  which  consisted  of 
making  shoes,  which  i  ascertained,  after  having  labored 
at  the  business  six  months,  not  to  be  as  profitable  as  1 
had  previously  anticipated. 

After  having  labored  at  shoe  making  nearly  a 
yeai,  I  felt  that  the  sudden  change  from  active  life  to 
that  of  a  sedentary  was  rapidly  making  inroads  on  my 
constitution  and  particularly  on  my  lungs,  which  had 
not  recovered  the  injury  received.  Soon  1  found 


OF    THOMAS    W.  SMITH.  233 

myself  twenty  dollars  in  arrears,  and  not  being  able  to 
pay,  I  was  under  the  necessity  of  leaving  the  institution 
to  labor  at  my  former  business,  to  recruit  my  means  in 
order  to  renew  my  studies.  On  leaving  the  institution 
a  letter  was  given  me  by  the  principal  to  convey  to  the 
pastor  of  the  church,  in  which  he  invoked  him  to  enlist 
his  influence  with  the  church,  in  order  that  I  might  be 
assisted  to  finish  my  education,  in  which  [  had  made 
great  proficiency.  But  it  appears  that  the  Rev.  brother 
did  not  enlist  his  influence  with  the  church,  in  my  be- 
half, as  there  was  nothing  done.  He  did  not  feel  so 
much  engagedness  for  the  worth  of  souls  as  he  had  done 
on  a  former  occasion,  when,  in  delivering  one  of  his  dis- 
courses, he  exhorted  the  church  to  do  her  duty,  to  search 
out  her  young  men  who  might  be  impressed  with  the 
duty  of  preaching  and  educate  them  for  the  church,  as 
the  church  was  in  a  suffering  condition  for  the  want  of 
watchmen  to  sound  the  alarm  upon  the  walls  of  Zion, 
stating  at  the  time  that  New  England  alone  was  deficient 
of  five  hundred  ministers. 

After  having  labored  at  my  business  some  time,  I  paid 
up  my  arrears  in  the  institution,  and  was  preparing  to  re- 
turn to  it,  when,  unfortunately,  I  was  taken  ill,  with  a 
disease  on  my  lungs,  by  which  I  was  confined  within 
doors  three  months.  I  was  again  left  penniless,  and  on 
the  following  Spring  was  obliged  to  go  to  work  to  recruit 
my  means,  with  an  intention  of  once  more  returning  to 
the  institution,  but  while  thus  engaged,  I  was  again  vio- 
lently attacked  by  my  old  disease,  which  came  near  tak- 
ing me  off  the  stage  of  life.  About  this  time  the  infant 
institution,  not  receiving  sufficient  support,  failed,  and 
with  it  all  my  hopes  of  preaching  the  gospel  went  down, 
but  principally  in  consequence  of  the  feeble  state  of  my 
health,  and  my  poverty. 

Thus  human  life  is  a  short,  a  checkered  scene  of  good 
and  evil,  of  hope  and  fear,  of  prosperity  and  adversity, 
and  he  only  is  wise  who  lays  up  his  treasures  in  heaven, 
and  becomes  rich  toward  God.  This  is  the  wisdom, 
the  patience,  and  blessing  of  the  true  children  of  God, 
and  may  the  dear  reader  share  in  the  blessings  promised 
to  the  puie  in  heart. 

30 


CONTENTS, 


CHAPTER  I. 

THE  birth  of  the  author  ;  the  early  death  of  his  father  ;  he  and  his 
widowed  mother  are  taken  into  her  father's  family ;  the  author 
put  oat  to  service  and  deprived  of  education  ;  his  labors  and  suf- 
ferings while  with  Moore  ;  his  return  home  ;  is  put  out  the  se- 
cond time  to  a  Mr.  Miles  ;  his  cruel  treatment  while  there  ;  is 
induced  by  young  Link  to  run  away  with  him  ;  they  lodge  in  a 
gravel  pit ;  are  taken  out  by  a  company  of  Gipsy s  and  carried 
to  a  cave  in  a  wood;  conversation  with  the  Gipsys,  and  his 
adoption  by  them.  Page  9 

CHAPTER    II. 

Departure  from  the  cavern ;  travels  with  the  Gipsys  ;  description  of 
places  ;  description  of  a  body  of  smugglers  and  their  galleys;  the 
condition  of  the  common  classes  of  society  ;  the  cause  of  smug- 
gling in  England ;  encamps  at  Kochester  city;  visits  to  the 
Sun-tap  ;  cultivates  an  acquaintance  with  Willie  the  sailor-boy  ; 
conversation  with  a  sea-captain  ;  induced  to  go  a  voyage  to 
North  Shields  ;  absconds  from  the  Gipsys  ;  character  and  habits 
of  these  singular  people.  18 


CHAPTER    III. 

First  voyage  to  sea  in  the  brig  Venus  ;  arrival  at  Shields;  depar- 
ture ;  comes  to  anchor  near  the  Sands  ;  driven  on  shore  by  a 
French  lugger ;  the  lugger  leaves  the  vessel  unmolested  ;  hap- 
py congratulations  ;  failure  in  getting  the  vessel  oft'  prepara- 
tions for  the  gale ;  discovery  of  her  situation ;  the  gale  com- 
mences ;  the  crew  take  refuge  in  the  vessel's  tops  ;  sufferings 
during  the  gale  ;  termination  of  the  gale  ;  loss  of  the  vessel ; 
taken  off  from  the  wreck;  arrives  in  the  lower  hope  and  comes 
to  an  anchor ;  ships  on-  board  of  the  brig  Paragon  bound  to 
Spain.  28 


CHAPTER    IV. 

Ships  on  board  the  Paragon  ;  sails  from  the  Downs  with  a  convoy; 
taken  prisoner  by  a  French  lugger  ;  efforts  to  escape  imprison- 
ment ;  recapture  of  the  vessel  and  our  liberation;  arrival  at 
Spithead  ;  embarkation  of  the  troops  ;  departure  of  the  convoy  ; 
description  of  the  scene  ;  ancient  tradition  of  the  moon  ;  arrival 
at  Portugal  and  disembarkation  of  the  troops  j  retreat  of  the 
French  army  out  of  Portugal ;  arrival  at  Cadiz,  and  disembark- 


CONTENTS.  235 

ation  of  the  troops  ;  arrival  at  Carthagena  and  disembarkation 
of  the  troops  ;  arrival  at  Alicant  ;  junction  of  the  forces  ;  attack 
on  the  city  and  landing  of  the  army  ;  description  of  the  attack  ; 
capture  of  the  city  ;  retreat  of  the  French  army,  pursued  by  the 
English;  return  of  the  army  to  the  city  ;  embarkation  of  the 
army;  departure  from  Alicant  ;  arrival  of  the  army  in  the 
south  of  Spain  ;  landing  of  the  army  ;  defence  of  the  enemy;  at- 
tack on  the  French  redoubts  and  fortification  ;  dislodgement  of 
the  French  ;  evacuation  of  the  fort  and  retreat  of  the  French,  to 
the  plain  :  general  engagement  on  the  plain  ;  the  French  are  re- 
pulsed and  retreat ;  embarkation  oi  the  army  ;  the  Paragon  leaves 
the  fleet  and  returns  to  Carthagena  ;  arrival  in  England  ;  the  au- 
thor is  induced  to  leave  the  ship  ;  enters  on  board  of  a  ship  of 
war.  36 


CHAPTER    V. 

Sails  in  H.  B.  S.  Hindostan  ;  arrives  at  Gibraltar  ;  Irom  thence  to 
Carthagena  ;  visits  the  English  soldiers  and  fortifications  ;  ar- 
rives at  Mahon  and  meets  part  of  Sir  Edward  Pillow's  fleet 
there  ;  description  of  a  sailor's  irial  and  horrible  punishment  ; 
arrives  at  Carthagena;  gains  knowledge  of  the  city;  descrip- 
tion of  the  city  and  its  fortifica'ions  ;  public  execution  of  three 
English  deserters;  description  of  the  Spanish  Gipsys  ;  departure 
from  Carthagena ;  meets  the  Victory  71  with  her  prize  of  90  ; 
description  of  the  battle  ;  arrival  at  Gibraltar  ;  attack  of  the 
French  on  Tariffa,  Algebras  and  St.  Roche  ;  description  of  the 
rock  of  Gibraltar,  its  fortifications  and  the  town;  description  of 
St.  Michael's  cavern  ;  arrival  on  the  summit  of  the  mount  ;  the 
Moorish  Castle  :  arrival  at  Cadiz  ;  description  of  the  Carraques  : 
departure  from  Cadiz  ;  short  allowance  of  water;  the  suffering 
of  the  author;  arrival  in  England;  takes  in  75  American  pris- 
oners ;  conversation  with  one  of  the  prisoners;  departure  from 
Spithead  ;  preparations  for  an  engagement  with  a  supposed  ene- 
my ;  arrival  at  Chatham  ,  chosen  by  the  captain's  lady  to  be  ed- 
ucated and  is  disappointed  by  a  misrepresentation  of  'his  dispo- 
sition. 52 


CHAPTER    VI. 

Departure  from  England  ;  encounters  a  gale  in  the  bay  of  Bis- 
cay ;  dangerous  position  off  Cape  Palos  ;  turtle  soup  ;  water 
spouts  amid  the  convoy  ;  makes  the  island  of  Malta  ;  descrip- 
tion of  the  place  where  St.  Paul  was  wrecked  ;  enters  the  harbor  ; 
description  of  Malta  and  its  harbor;  position  of  the  city  of  St. 
John  and  the  town  of  Valetta  ;  description  of  St.  John's  church  ; 
John  the  Baptist's  skull ;  the  embalmed  bodies  in  the  Vaults  ;  the 
Queen's  Garden  ;  horrible  murder;  departure  from  Malta ;  ar- 
rival at  Gibraltar  ;  departure  for  England  with  a  convoy  j  prep- 
aration for  action  ;  chases  the  supposed  enemy  j  arrival  at  Ports- 
mouth. 86 


236  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Departure  from  England  ;  arrival  off  Gibraltar  ;  abuse  of  men  on 
board  of  the  Admiral's  ship  ;  sails  over  to  Algesiras  ;  celebration 
of  the  peace  of  1814  ;  arrival  at  Portsmouth.  101 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Departure  from  England;  becomes  conversant  with  three  foreign 
languages;  arrival  at  Lisbon  in  Portugal;  a  description  of  the 
city  of  Lisbon  ;  a  dangerous  place  for  foreigners  ;  murder  com- 
mitted by  the  Portuguese  boatmen  ;  arrival  at  Port  Mahon  ;  de- 
cription  of  the  harbor  and  its  entrance  ;  description  of  the  city 
and  Georgetown  ;  visited  by  the  Spanish  admiral ;  information 
of  Bonaparte's  departure  from  Elba  ;  arrival  at  Malta — 
plague  there  ;  arrival  in  England.  103 

* 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Escape  from  his  majesty's  ship  in  company  with  Ellis:  trials  at 
Post  Down  Hill ;  Robin  Hood's  forest ;  arrives  at  the  Elephant 
and  Castle,  London;  goes  to  Greenwich;  disappointed  in  not  rind- 
ing my  parents ;  sufferings  and  trials  at  London  •  becomes  ac- 
quainted with  two  boys  who  had  been  paid  off  from  a  ship  of 
war;  after  suffering  privations,  finally  succeeds  in  obtaining  a 
ship  and  is  bound  apprentice.  1.11 


CHAPTER   X. 

Departure  for  the  island  of  Georgia ;  arrival  at  the  Isle  of  May; 
disappointed  in  the  voyage  of  the  ship ;  comes  to  an  anchor 
in  Royal  Sound  Bay  ;  attacking  the  sea  Elephants  ;  des- 
cription of  the  island  ;  a  man  lost  in  the  icebergs  ;  tremendous 
falling  of  icebergs;  floating  icebergs;  the  Elephant  season  ;  the 
proceedings  of  the  Elephant  while  on  shore  ;  the  Seal  season  ; 
manner  of  obtaining  our  cargo  :  our  sufferings  ;  the  boat 
blown  into  the  air ;  starving  condition  of  the  boat's  crew  ; 
arrival  at  the  ship  ;  proceeds  to  the  east  end  of  the  island  ;  win- 
ter's retreat  to  the  ship  ;  the  snow  falls ;  Sealing  during  winter  ; 
sufferings  of  the  boat's  crew  ;  sleeping  in  a  cavern  ;  sleeping  on 
the  ice  ;  Spring  prosperity  ;  loss  of  the  small  shallop ;  succeeds 
in  obtaining  a  cargo  ;  departure  for  England  ;  suffering  of  the 
author;  encounters  a  gale  and  the  ship  springs  a  leak,  400  strokes 
per  hour  ;  arrives  at  Rio  Janeiro  ;  stops  the  leak  and  proceeds 
home  ;  description  of  the  city  and  harbor  of  Rio  Janeiro;  makes 
lands-end ;  arrives  at  London.  123 


CONTENTS.  237 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Departure  from  London  ;  near  being  wrecked  ;  arrival  at  Georgia; 
shallops  and  boats  leave  the  ship  in  search  of  elephants  ;  sever* 
trial  in  rowing  into  the  bay  ;  discovery  of  a  large  cavern  ;  the 
boats  crews  sleep  in  the  cavern  ;  gale  of  wind  ;  loss  of  one 
boat;  the  boat's  crew  walk  to  the  ship;  arrival  of  the  boat's  crew  ; 
landing  at  Devils-bight  ;  gale  of  wind  ;  sufferings  while  there  ; 
return  to  Snow-Squall  Bay  ;  arrival  of  the  boats  at  Cooper's  har- 
bor ;  the  author  is  invited  on  board  the  shallop  by  his  friend 
Johnson  ;  gale  of  wind  blowing  into  the  harbor  ;  the  sloop  parts 
her  cable  and  is  wrecked  on  the  rocks  ;  loss  of  life  and  miracu- 
lous escape  of  the  author;  arrival  of  the  schooner  and  beats  at 
the  ship  ;  a  voyage  of  discovery  to  the  Sandwich  Islands  ;  dis- 
appointment of  the  voyage  ;  description  of  the  volcano  ;  arrival 
at  the  ship ;  the  boats  are  dispatched  to  the  westward  ;  a  shallop 
is  bought;  arrival  of  the  shallop  to  the  boats;  employment  of  the 
boats  ;  loss  of  the  shallop  on  a  rock  ;  escape  of  the  author  and 
sufferings  of  the  crew  ;  arrival  of  the  crew  to  the  ship  ;  gale  of 
wind  ;  the  schooner  drifts  out  to  sea  ;  the  author  sent  to  her  as- 
sistance ;  his  sufferings  during  the  gale  ;  attempt  to  raise  the 
shallop  ;  winter  sealing  round  the  island  ;  the  author  falls  into 
the  sea  from  an  iceberg  and  from  the  top  of  a  rock  ;  sleeping  on 
the  snow,  ice  and  rocks  during  the  winter;  state  of  starvation; 
is  compelled  to  subsist  on  Penguin's  hearts  a".d  livets  •.  in  con- 
sequence of  these  sufferings  our  skin  came  off  in  ln-s  '  flakes  : 
departure  of  the  ship  for  England;  touches  at  the  Isle  of  Fer- 
mando  norona  ;  arrival  at  London  ;  poverty  of  the  author.  . 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Departure  from  London  in  the  ship  Admiral,  Coalpoi.se;>  touches  at 
St.  Jago  ;  arrival  at  South  Georgia  ;  the  ship  is  secured  in  the 
harbor  ;  commences  operations  ;  successful  enterprise  ;.  visited 
by  an  iceberg,  which  drifted  on  the  ship's  anchor  ;  loss  of  the 
ship  and  parMof  her  cargo  ;  arrival  of  the  author  in  London. 

loo 

CHAPTER   XIII. 

Departure  of  the  Hetty;  touches  at  Bonavista ;  narrow  escape  of 
being  washed  overboard  ;  arrival  at  Falkland  islands;  enter 
Barclay's  Sound  ;  arrival  at  South  Shetland  ;  proceed  along  the 
coast ;  come  to  anchor  and  narrowly  escape  being  lost ;  search 
after  seal  and  discover  a  ship's  harbor,  in  an  opposite  island; 
arrival  at  the  harbor  and  meet  several  vessels  there  ;  the  shore 
lined  with  seals;  landing  of  the  boats'  crews  to  kill  seals  ;  pre- 
rented  from  killing  them  by  other  ships'  crews;  search  fora 
new  sealing  ground  ;  strange  crews  attempt  a  landing  ;  they 
are  prevented  ;  they  walk  overland  and  succeed  in  killing  8000 
seals  ,  detected  and  driven  off  the  beach  ;  near  escape  of  being 
drowned  ;  seized  by  a  large  sea  lion  ;  departure  for  England  ; 
arriral  at  London  ;  the  owners  defraud  the  crew  ,  law-suit  with 
the  owners.  157 


CONT1NTS. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 


Departure  from  London  ;  arrives  at  Cape  Horn ;  sails  by  Juan 
Fernandez;  arrives  off  of  Arica  ;  meets  with  success;  arrives 
at  Payta ;  departure  from  Payta  ;  a  large  school  of  whales  ;  the 
author  imthe  whale't,  mouth  ;  succeeds  in  killing  the  whale, 
which  makes  85  barrels  of  oil  ;  attacks  another  school ;  boat  is 
stove  ;  the',  whale  takes  off  the  cooper  of  the.  ship  on  her  back  ; 
arrival  at  nhe  G-allipagos  ;  takes  300  terrapins  ;  sails  for  the  wes- 
tern grounty  :  sails'for  Chili  ;  touches  at  Easter  isle  ;  description 
or  the  natives,  the  island  and  its  productions  ;  arrives  at  Salango 
bay;  disturbance  in  the  ship;  arrival  at  the  Gallipagos;  des- 
cription of  the  island  ;  sufferings  and  dangers  attending  terrapin- 
ning;  the  author  is  compelled  to  drink  terrapins  blood;  arrival  at 
Payta  ;  desertion  of  an  apprentice  :  the  crew  is  tried  by  the  cap- 
tain of  the  port ;  the  crew  honorably  acquitted  by  the  captain  of 
the  port ;  the  crew  put  in  prison  ;  sufferings  and  losses  of  the 
author;  sails  for  Guayaquil;  arrives  and  ships  on  board  the 
Louiza  ;  the  author  is  attacked  by  a  Bolivian  dragoon  ;  sails  with 
the  Colombian  expedition  for  Upper  Peru  ;  description  of  the  city 
and  the  surrounding  ceuntry;  arrival  of  the  expedition  at  Arica; 
disembarkation  of  the  army  for  the  interior;  retreat  of  the  royal 
army  ;  division  of  the  Colombian  army  ;  the  royalists  attack  the 
Colombians  ;  defeat  of  the  Colombians  ;  disastrous  retreat  of  the 
Colombians  into  the  ship  ;  arrival  of  the  disastrous  expedition  at 
Callao  ;  the  author  leaves  his  ship  and  ships  on  board  the  Perse- 
verance ;  arrives  at  Panama  ;  goes  to  Truxilio;  taken  by  the 
pirates  ,  lady  Mosby  and  part  of  the  crew  are  put  into  a  small 
boat  at  a  distance  from  the  land  without  the  means  to  gain  the 
shore  ;  original  design  of  the  pirates  ;  the  author  takes  passage 
to  Guayaquil;  the  pirates  frustrated  in  their  original  design; 
they  scuttle  the  vessel,  get  into  the  woods  and  are  detected  •  re- 
covery of  the  Perseverance  ;  she  arrives  at  Guayaquil ;  execu- 
tion of  the  pirates  ;  the  author  ships  on  board  of  the  Per- 
severance and  proceeds  on  a  smuggling  voa^c  ;  travels  to 
the  city  of  Lima;  capture  of  Lima  and  ^^^>  ;  arrival 
of  the  Peruvian  squadron  at  Callao ;  the  aimBL  is  pressed 
by  the  Spaniards  and  put  on  board  of  the  Pastrana  brig  of 
war;  the  Peruvian  attacks  the  Spanish  ships  at  Cailaoj  a  se- 
vere battle  is  fought;  ships  onboard  of  a  Spanish  privateer  ; 
takes  three  prizes  and  escapes  being  taken  by  the  Peruvi- 
an frigate  ;  arrival  of  a  Spanish  squadron  at  Callao  from 
Spain  ;  battle  off  Callao  ;  return  of  the  squadron  to  Callao;  the 
author  leaves  the  war  brig,  and  witnesses  a  severe  battle  between 
Lima  and  Callao  ;  ships  on  board  of  the  Robert  of  London  ;  the 
defence  of  Callao  ;  the  siege  of  Callao  ;  the  capitulation  of  Cal- 
lao ;  description  of  the  city  of  Lima;  departure  for  England; 
arrival  at  Liverpool;  has  a  severe  fever  j  is  robbed  while  his 
life  is  despaired  of.  164 


CONTENTS.  239 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Leaves  London  ;  arrival  at  New  Zealand,  and  description  of  the 
natives  ;  Cannibalism  of  the  New  Zealanders  ;  cruises  off  the 
Navigator   isles  ;  description  of  the  natives  ;  description  of  the 
Duke  of  Clarence  and  York's  isles  ;  two  races  of  the   natives; 
trading  with  the  natives  ;  cruises  off  the  King's  Mill  Group;  crui- 
ses off  Mathew's  isle;    warlike  and  hideous  appearance   of  the 
natives  ;  design  to  take  the  ship  ;  crui.se  off  the  New  Hebrides  ; 
appearance  of  Santa  Cruz  ;  lands  on  a  volcanic  isle  ;  cruises  off 
Solomon's  He  ;  dangerous  attack  oh  a  canoe  ;    loss  of  life  ;  ten 
war  canoes  come  off  to  attack  the  ship  ;  raises  a  school  of  whales; 
the  AliVed's  boats  and  ours  are  attacked  by  two  fleets  of  canoes ; 
loss  oi'  her  captain  and  second  mate  ;  the  natives  repulsed  by  our 
boa's  li.ncl   two  boats  stove;  the    author   stands  on  the  whale's 
hc.i  !  ;    the  whale  takes  the  author's  boat  off  while  the  crew  are 
in  the  water  hanging  on  to  her  ;    cruises  off'  Isabel  isle  ;  attempt 
of  the  natives  to  take  the  John  Bull  ;   discovery  of  a  d<jep   bay; 
tli"  -iiip  is  attacked  by  two  or  three  thousand  natives  ;  defence 
of :',(.-  ship  and  slaughter  of  the  natives;  arrival  at  Guana  isle  ^. 
.  iption  of   the  natives  and  manner  of  living  ;  sails  by  the 
Ladrone  isles  ;  Volcano  ;  arrives  at   Japan  ;  cruises  along  the 
coast ;  visited  by  Japanese  fishing  boats  ,  boarded  by  Japanese 
junks  ;  departure  from   the  Japan  seas  ;  a  L;ucar  escapes  from 
the  natives   and   gains  the   ship  ;  the  loss  of  his  vessel  and  hi.s 
captivity  ;  the  crew  eaten  by  the  natives  ;  mode  of  roasting  their 
victims  ;  arrives  at  the  New  Hebrides  ;  the  natives  sieze  two  oi' 
the  ship's  crew;  departure  of  the  ship  and  the  loss  of  two  men  ; 
colored  men  with  yellow  hair  ;  discovery  of  the  island  where  the 
French  ship  L'Empereur  was  wrecked  ;    arrival  at  the   isle  of 
Rotemah  ;  description  of  the  natives  ;  three  men  desert  the  ship 
and  remain  on  the  island  ;  arrival  at  New  Zealand  ;  war  of  two 
powerful  tribes  ;  war  dances  and  temporary  peace  ;  invasion  and 
landing  of  the  \Vhorowrarians  tfith  their  war  canoes  ;  prepara- 
tions for  defence  by  the  Kivakivians  ;  battle  of  Crorica  ;  landing 
of  the  missionaries  in  the   midst  of  the  battle;  their  exposure, 
interposition,    and  fearless  resolution   to   appease  the  natives  ; 
defeat  of  the  Whorowrarians  ;    landing  of  the  author  ;  departure 
of  the  Kivakivians  and  burning  of  their  town  ;  the  Whorowrari 
ans  rein  force  their  tribe;  again  invade  the  Kivakivians  with  100 
war  canoes  carrying  1,500  men  ;  their  war  dances  on  approach- 
ing each  other  ;    the  Whorwrarians  are  dismayed  and  dare  not 
attack  them  :   interposition  of  the  missionaries  and  sea  captains. 

189 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Departure  from  London  ;  unfavorable  passage  ;  the  vessel  springs 
a  leak  500  stroues  per  hour  ;  arrival  at  Delagoa  bay  ;  trading 
with  the  natives  ;  the  crew  taUe  the  Delagoa  fever  ;  gale  of  wind; 
exposure  of  the  boats  to  ihe  gale  ;  loss  of  one  boat  and  safety  of 
the  other;  continuation  of  the  gale  :  loss  of  the  vessel  on  the 
sandy  coast ;  subsidence  of  the  gale;  landing  of  the  boat's  crew  j 


240  CONTENTS. 

travels  and  arrives  at  the  wreck  ;  death  of  the  captain  and  sev- 
eral of  the  crew  ;  t  e  property  is  taken  out  of  the  vessel  and  put 
in  a  tent ;  the  tent  surrounded  by  hundreds  of  armed  natives, 
who  keep  pillaging  its  contents  ;  outrageousness  of  the  natives  ; 
the  natives  seize  the  property  ;  retreat  from  the  tent  to  the  Mar- 
tba's  wreck  ;  the  author  is  attacked  by  the  fever  ;  continuation 
and  sufferings  on  the  wreck  ;  deliverance  from  the  wreck ;  vis- 
ited by  the  king;  ornaments  of  the  king  and  his  nobles  ;  ships 
on  board  the  Bremen  ;  whaling  and  sufferings  in  the  bay  ;  Por- 
tuguese colony  and  their  progress  in  civilization  ;  departure  of 
the  ship  ;  arrives  on  her  cruising  grounds  ;  a  calamity  overtakes 
the  author  which  nearly  terminates  his  existence  ;  unreasonable 
and  dangerous  requisitions  of  duty  by  the  captain  ;  unparalleled 
sufferings  of  the  author;  recovery  of  his  health;  the  author's 
mind  is  called  to  attend  to  the  future  prosperity  of  his  soul ;  ar- 
rival at  St.  Helena  ;  arrival  and  sufferings  in  New  Bedford  ;  de- 
prived of  his  just  dues  ;  manner  of  killing  whales;  convinced  of 
wrong  religious  views  ;  experiences  religion;  call  to  preach  the 
gospel ;  trials  of  his  mind  ;  unfolds  the  state  of  his  mind  to  sev- 
eral of  the  brethren;  introductions  Elder  Himes  ;  encourage- 
'"-  ment;  enters  the  institution  at  Beverly  to  study  for  the  minis- 
try ;  falls  in  arrears  and  is  compelled  through  poverty  to  relin- 
quish his  studies ;  attempts  to  resume  his  studies ;  he  is  taken 
ill  wi.th  a  lung  fever.;  cessation  of  the  institution.  217 


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